A Dales High Way - Day 2 - Ilkley to Skipton (Chinthurst B&B)

19km, 530 metres ascent, 5.1hrs incl stops.
Weather: fine morning, steadily clouding over, maturing into a drizzly afternoon.

After a bright start, today's weather went slowly downhill. But we can hardly complain, we reached Spencer's Café Bistro in Skipton soon after 2pm and took full advantage of their excellent tea and cakes (pictured).

This morning we headed back along the path to the south of the houses of Ilkley, continuing easily past the Swastika Stone, where a Victorian replica has been carved on a stone in front of the large boulder which houses the faint original markings from the Iron Age.

As we progressed gently up to Addingham High Moor we passed the sites of several more stones with cup and ring markings, but our main distraction was the constant bubbling trill of the resident curlews.

Shortly after Airedale came into view we headed north off the moor towards Addingham Moorside and in the general direction of Wharfedale. However, this 'High' route that we are walking eschews the delights (and crowds) of Wharfedale in favour of a direct line to Skipton by way of Moor Lane and a pathway known as 'The Street' and locally referred to as 'The Roman Road'. Despite official documents supporting that description that date back to the 19th century, there is no clear archaeological evidence to support the wide belief that our path follows the line of a Roman Road linking Ilkley with Elslack, near Skipton.

With rain looking imminent, we lunched just in time to avoid getting our butties wet, but we did leave our perch fully clad in waterproofs.

Whilst the views became muted by the drizzly weather, it was a very pleasant path across the tops and then down past an old toll house to the centre of Skipton and the comforts of the tea shop.

With plenty of time on our hands we decided to visit Skipton Castle, the site of a wooden fort from soon after 1090, which was replaced by a castle that passed to the Clifford family in 1310 and was their main residence for over 300 years. It's a magnificent and truly historic building, remarkably complete, and a pleasure to visit. As Andrew commented, shouldn't we be more appreciative of such places, especially when you consider that they pre-date sites like Macchu Picchu by several hundred years?

We had already learnt in the café that Chinthurst B&B is the best in Skipton, and given the friendly reception and our large, comfortable room, we can't disagree with that. Tonight's restaurant, Aagrar, has to be the best Kashmiri restaurant in Skipton. We've enjoyed a superb meal there, as has the owner of Aston Martin reg no R5OEL (think about it!).

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A Dales High Way - Day 1 - Saltaire to Ilkley (Craiglands Hotel)

17km, 500 metres ascent, 3.7hrs incl stops.
Weather: fine, with sunny periods and a brisk SW breeze on higher ground.

Another day, another trip.

Andrew (aka Notchy) and I have set off on a 'luxury' backpacking trip from Saltaire to Appleby in eight days. We are following a route devised in 2007 by Saltaire residents, Chris and Tony Grogan.

Full details can be found at www.daleshighway.org.uk

A successful rendezvous at Manchester Piccadilly, followed by an hour and a half's £7 worth of efficient rail travel saw us in Saltaire by soon after noon.

We spent a while exploring the industrial village built by Titus Salt in the mid 19th century, a prime example of 'Victorian philanthropic paternalism'.

By 1892 Salt had been dead for 14 years and his company had gone into liquidation. It wasn't until the 1980s, when another visionary, Jonathan Silver, bought the old mill and introduced an interesting mix of uses, that a turn around started. The railway station reopened and the old mill cottages became desirable for young commuters. New shops, bars and cafés appeared and Saltaire was once again booming.

We can confirm that it remains a smart, vibrant place to this day - certainly that was the impression we gained whilst lunching at Vicars Cafe Bistro, near Victoria Hall, the venue for a recent Antiques Roadshow.

But we were here for a walk, and a very pleasant afternoon's stroll it was too, basically directly north to Ilkley. I took diversions to take in Hope Hill, as well as Ilkley Moor's 402 metre summit, and the Thimble Stones, but even those excursions involved little extra effort and we arrived conveniently outside our hotel directly from a footpath above the town.

It was good to see plenty of curlew today, after noting their scarcity during my recent walk across Scotland. Lapwings, skylarks, meadow pipits and a sparrowhawk were also very much in evidence, but there were no oyster catchers, and there seemed to be fewer birds than when I passed along a very similar route two years ago.

Whilst there was no sign of any moisture on the surface of the moors, numerous piles of paving slabs were strewn across the summit of Ilkley Moor, awaiting a path construction team, indicating that the moor is unusually dry just now!

We encountered a good smattering of walkers, runners and mountain bikers, including a man in a kilt and some scout leaders on Ilkley Moor who kindly took the above photo.

Below the spa baths at White Wells, which date from 1703, lies the prosperous town of Ilkley, where we later savoured the delights of its Piccolino restaurant. However, above White Wells, a 3500 year old stone circle, the Twelve Apostles, stood proud alongside our route, and Rombalds Moor sports numerous examples of prehistoric rock art dating from over 3000 years ago. Most of the 350 examples are off today's beaten tracks, but I did come across a couple of the sites as I descended from the moor towards Ilkley.

That's all for now. We are hoping for another fine day tomorrow.

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Thursday 9 June 2011 – Deepest Cheshire

In view of the formidable sound of this evening stroll:

“An adventure with Notchy - Deepest Cheshire - starting at 7.30 pm from The Egerton Arms, Chelford  - 9.16 km with 48 metres of ascent (but not all in one go!)”

the turnout of ten random people was something of a surprise, especially to Notchy, who, having walked the route earlier in the day, but having succumbed to short-term memory loss, tried hard to allay his fear of getting lost by gazing lovingly into the screen of his GPS unit all evening.

It was a lovely warm evening, with pleasant lanes, and paths beside sandpits, and not a drop of rain.

Two Johns were present, including ‘magician’ JJ, who helped Steve out:

“My shins hurt” announced Steve.

“I’ll carry you then” offered JJ.

“OK” agreed Steve, not realising that he was about to be sprinkled with JJ’s magic powder that he had found in a Roald Dahl first edition.

Steve never really recovered from this, and had completely disappeared by the time we left the jolly bellringers of Chelford church to continue their appeal for his reappearance.

Here’s our 8.5 km route – very good for a two hour stroll, even if it was a bit shorter than broadcast.

Thanks everyone for turning up – the evening programme is here – hope to see you again on 15 July in Hayfield.

(I may load a short slide show later – out of time now.)

Must go…another trip is beckoning…

2 to 6 June 2011 – A Long Weekend based at Windermere Youth Hostel

There were eleven participants on this trip.  Whilst youth hostels aren’t particularly cheap these days, this one at Windermere has been nicely refurbished, with rooms for two or four people, some being en-suite, and with ample grounds and various prepared activities for children, such as orienteering, treasure hunting, etc.  In fact it is extremely child friendly, which is just as well as we had four under tens in our party, and Much Cheaper than a B&B or hotel.

Ten of us arrived on a hot Thursday afternoon.  Ben and Polly soon grabbed Sue when their mum and Dad dozed off.

We all then enjoyed a stroll up Wansfell Pike, with ‘Bubbles’ celebrating reaching the summit in style.

Al and I went on to the summit of Wansfell, whilst the others raced us back to Troutbeck.  Some of them beat us, despite our running!

All that exercise meant good business for the bar at the hostel (yes, many youth hostels have licensed bars these days), and we were soon tucking in to Sue’s excellent sausage pasta dish.

The pudding was Yummy – a repeat of the one we cooked for Lyn and Simon’s wedding ‘a few’ years ago.

Friday morning dawned hot and sunny, so everyone enjoyed a trip down to Windermere.

We caught the Bowness ferry and whilst some just lazed around on the western shore of the lake, others went for a ‘paddle’.  In the absence of swimwear, many of the images that record this episode could get me into trouble if I publish them here…

Anyway, everyone else adjourned to a boat trip to Ambleside, whilst I strolled back to the hostel via The Dales Way, The Windermere Way, and Orrest Head.  A lovely walk, albeit very hot, with fine views throughout, and especially towards the Kentmere Hills from Orrest Head.

It was thirsty work, and again we ate outside, today Al and Hazel being providers of plentiful pizza and salad.

Fiona had joined us on Friday afternoon, and she helped to coax Polly up Helm Crag on Saturday morning.  (Hot, sunny.  Boring isn’t it!)

I was very happy by lunch time, having managed to scale the summit rock face (closely followed by a small girl).  It’s about as hard as I can manage without a rope!

Sue and Al also made it to the top, whilst others were happy to watch, before descending to play in a frothy beck, from where a short walk led to the Lancrigg Hotel.  A gem of a place, outside which we enjoyed massive servings of carrot cake and other delights, before returning for a well cooked YHA meal.

Sunday morning saw Lyn and Simon head off with their charges, but not before Aussie Stephen, from the hostel (a very patient man – we observed him working diligently in reception, where some guests fully expected the service that would be offered by a five star hotel – and got it) took this excellent group photo.

The remaining seven of us headed off to Grizedale Forest on a cooler day, and enjoyed a romp around the ‘red’ trail over Carron Crag.

Numerous sculptures were encountered, as always in this forest, this one being near the summit of the crag.

Then we all went home, after an extremely successful and enjoyable outing.  Very relaxing after the TGO Challenge!

Sue and I took lots of photos.  A selection of 50 is here, but if you were lucky enough to be on this particular trip, you may enjoy the ‘full works’, some 160 images, here.

Summer in Timperley (1)

We are back here for a few days (for the benefit of Gibson) after a very summery trip to the Lake District on which I will report later in the week.

Meanwhile, back at home, the swifts (who arrived at the end of April) are getting noisier, but I think may still be incubating under the eaves; the nettles down the ‘entry’ ginnel that gives access to the canal are growing uncontrollably; and the Canada Geese goslings (pictured above) are prancing around with all the confidence if not the aggression of their parents.

Nearby, the MSC Co (Manchester Ship Canal Company) barge known as ‘WF No 1’ is engaged in repairing the Bridgewater Canal at the point where constant use by the local rowing club has caused the stonework of the bank to collapse.  One of its jolly crew members claimed that ‘WF No 1’ was an abbreviation of ‘Wayne Forever No 1’.  I know better – this is one of several canal maintenance vessels - ‘Work Float No 1’.

Wansfell

Here we are, in the sunshine with the pixies for a few days of R+R.

I'm taking a short break from mobile blogging whilst we are here, so a report will follow during the course of next week.

Enjoy the sunshine, everyone.

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A Brief Interlude in Timperley

This time we are back at home for 36 hours, rather than 20 minutes, so there has been time to visit grandson Jacob, now six weeks old, to whom I have sub-contracted Webtogs’ latest offering for testing, the Soft III Baby Carrier.

He says it’s so comfy it makes him very sleepy, but he’ll try to draft a proper review shortly!

I see that I have 530 unread items on Google Reader.  I’m afraid they’ll remain unread for a while – I’m loathe to rush through the TGO Challenge reports (not to mention the photos already on the Message Board) and other interesting items, but I hear there’s going to be a heat wave tomorrow!

See you out there, perhaps?

Here’s another view of the Baby Carrier in action.

Monday 30 May 2011 - SWCP Day 3 - Warwick Court Guest House in Weymouth to The Old Bakehouse in Winfrith Newburgh

23km, 700 metres ascent, 6.7hrs incl 1.2hrs stops.

Weather: dreich, in a gentle south coast sort of way.

As expected, today dawned wet. But it was only vaguely drizzly as Andrew, Liz, Jill, Sue and I set off down Weymouth's esplanade past hungry herring gulls that one member of our party thought were albatrosses! Even the beach huts were being tarted up in preparation for next year's Olympics, when the sailing events are being held here. In fact, some of our fellow guests are members of the Spanish Sailing Team, on their fourth 'reconnaissance' visit!

Elsewhere in Weymouth, road changes and other works in preparation for the Olympics have caused sufficient disruption to bring some of the local populace to regret that their town is hosting such an event.
Betty and Dave had gone home due to Dave's need to work, so it was a bedraggled foursome of Sue, David, Gaynor and Hilde who joined the five of us at a typical seaside café at Bowleaze Cove. We'd reached it before the rain strengthened, so it was a rather odd sight of dryish walkers meeting the occupants of a car who looked as if they had been through a car wash with the windows open.

The coast path now rose up some meaningful cliffs as we pressed on towards Osmington Mills and Ringstead. Foghorns blared through the mist; visibility for a while was less than 100 metres - lower than at any point on my TGO Challenge route except Hound Hillock. Yellow iris and honeysuckle glistened in the weak light.

By the time we reached the picture postcard setting of the Smugglers Inn, the weather was clearing, but tables laid out for hordes of Bank Holiday visitors were deserted.

It was only noon, so we eschewed the delights of this place and continued on to a well stocked kiosk at Ringstead, where John from France joined our group for a spell.

The rain had eased by now and we enjoyed the final section of this year's tramp in fairer weather and in the fine scenery of the chalky cliffs that lead towards Durgle Door and Lulworth Cove. The path was lined with the distinctive white flowers of Nottingham Catchfly.

The sheer cliffs rise to around 150 metres hereabouts. Spectacular scenery even in today's dull weather. Others took a variety of short cuts across The Warren, past a couple of beacons, to gain the excellent footpath to East Chaldon. Meanwhile Sue (pictured above) and I continued as far as we could along the crumbling chalky coastal cliffs, finally turning inland along a permissive path shortly before reaching Bat's Head.

We soon caught up, and Colin, who instigated these SWCP trips in the mid 1990s, turned up to walk with us for the last couple of miles and join the tea party at The Old Bakehouse, where we finished this year's section of the coast path at around 3.45pm. Very enjoyable the tea party was too.

Finely honed plans to return to Weymouth were scuppered by the designated driver having left their keys in Weybridge, but a combination of Colin and the X53 bus came to the rescue, and our trip ended happily with a nice meal washed down with Ringwood Brewery's Best Bitter at The Rock.

Thanks, everyone, for another great trip.

Sent from the M5 on a gloriously sunny morning ... Ho hum!

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Sunday 29 May 2011 - SWCP Day 2 - Sue and Martin's Mini Adventure around The Isle of Portland, from Warwick Court Guest House in Weymouth

30km, 500 metres ascent, 8.5hrs incl 1hr stops.

Weather: fine! But very windy.

With the rest of the gang having secured lifts to Ferry Bridge, it was left for Sue and me to stroll down from our B+B, Warwick Court Guest House. We left at 9am for the 9.30 rendezvous. It took us an hour. Luckily the others had been delayed by a 'car parking incident', so we were only ten minutes or so behind.

We had strolled past banks of red Valerian and masses of Broomrape, and were within a few yards of catching Andrew, the back marker of our group, when a sudden urgent need propelled us into the excellent Blue Fish Café, where a Sunday breakfast service was in full swing.

We emerged, half an hour later, and bashed on along Anquet's thin blue line on an A4 printed map.

Unfortunately the thin blue line that signified our intended path. was only partially supported by a red dotted line. A 'Coast Path' sign was missed. It would have drawn us up to a broad cliff top path. Instead we headed to the end of a thin path and onto a boulder field just above the high tide mark. This lasted for around 3km and took us two hours. Perhaps we should have turned back, especially where the cliff face forced us below the tide line at a time when the tide was marching up to greet us. Some quick dashes across rocks laden with lettuce wrack were required in order to dodge a dousing.

On and on it went. Over huge rocks laden with fossils - ammonites as thick as your arm, and vast quantities of shells.

Eventually we caught sight of people ahead of us. Were they the rest of our party? Surely not! We waved to them. They waved back. They couldn't be our party, though - as they drew closer it became apparent that they were wearing helmets and carrying ropes. It was reassuring to meet them in an area of huge boulders and landslips. They passed on advice about the route ahead. It would 'go' - just about.

So we continued on over massive boulders, across landslips and slimy rocks, and up precipitous slopes of grass, shale and brambles with long thorns, eventually reaching a small group of climbers perched precariously below an upper band of cliffs.

Continuing on along a thin path below these cliffs, we scrambled our way into a position from which it was possible to escape onto the broad cliff top coast path. On the way a twenty foot down climb nearly had me calling for assistance by way of a top rope, but somehow Sue managed to coax me down at the second attempt.

Today's picture is taken looking back to this whole area of our 'Mini Adventure'. I'd spent Thursday night listening to various TGO Challengers relating such adventures over the past couple of weeks without being able to reciprocate, so having finally reached safety I was delighted to have this story to tell!

Having emerged onto the correct route near Southwell, it was an easy stroll to the fleshpots of Portland Bill, where we sheltered on a rock behind a shed to enjoy a late lunch after an encounter with Alfie the dog.

The thrift strewn coast path up the east side of the Isle was interesting. After passing through an area of fishermen and holiday shacks, it went past a couple of quarries and areas laden with huge blocks of Portland Stone.

Beyond a ruined church, signs routed us up to a field of white coated bowls players. Actually they were dressed all in white, with white down jackets billowing in the wind. Past the Alcatraz grey of an extensive and austere Young Offenders Institute, from where the familiar sound of an old Pink Floyd classic (concerning education) wafted inappropriately.

We tried to follow the path. We failed. Our excuse is the sign we think we misread was concealed by a group of girly jockeys.

After extricating ourselves from an unwelcome and off-route quarry we continued on to boringly regain our chosen path, admire extensive views of Chesil Beach, and eventually return to our morning route near the coffee shop.

Trudging back across the blowy causeway, I observed that today's wind was as brisk as any I had encountered on my low level sections of this year's TGO Challenge. The relative calm of the Rodwell Trail along a disused railway line was very welcome. It took us nearly all the way to Warwick Court, where we arrived at 5.30pm, not too far behind the rest of the group that we had failed to accompany all day.

An evening with a BBQ at The Old Bakehouse, a holiday cottage in Winfrith Newburgh that had been rented for the week by Sue and David, proved most enjoyable. On the way we passed the scene of the afore-mentioned 'parking incident' where Gaynor's car was still suspended on a rock intended to discourage people from parking on a grassy verge!

Alan R, you should realise by now that any let up in transmissions will be spotted by Dot, who requires daily trip updates! (I know you're only envious!)

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Saturday 28 May 2011 - SWCP Day 1 - Abbotsbury to Weymouth

23km, 380 metres ascent, 6.5hrs incl 1.7hrs stops.

Sue and I have been strolling around the SWCP (South West Coast Path) at this time of year for quite a number of years now. We have got all the way from Minehead to Weymouth, with just one small missing link for me in North Devon, and a bit more for Sue.

In recent years the TGO Challenge and other commitments have relegated this trip to the autumn, but this year a pre-prepared bag enabled me to spend just 20 minutes at home between returning with JJ and Graham B from Montrose and setting off for three days on the SWCP, based in Weymouth.

Yes, Gayle, I seem to have brought the dodgy weather with me, but I'm sure the 'Phreerunner Effect' will result in a 'reversal of fortunes', as Anne Robinson would say, shortly...

Thanks again for the comments, especially re TGOC kit, which I'll add to when I finally get some time at home. That's needed soon as, having spent the week before the Challenge in Scotland, my supply of usable kit and clothing is dwindling!

Today a bus delivered our intrepid party of ten - Sue, me, Andrew, David, Sue, Dave, Betty, Gaynor and Hilde to the pretty village of Abbotsbury.

Coffee was taken and various members of the party attempted to lighten their loads by leaving items in the tea shop. "We acquire a wide range of walking poles and prescription spectacles" commented the friendly owner.

A stroll down towards the beach afforded us a sea view. But our route today took us inland of West Fleet and East Fleet, the lagoons that are protected from the sea in all but the stormiest conditions by the high barrier beyond - Chesil Beach - along which we did not attempt to venture.

The inland route was pretty handy in today's strong winds, as it provided some welcome respite from the cold draught, which admittedly was on our backs.

Elevenses (pictured), featuring a freshly baked batch of CCS (Chocolate Caramel Shortbread), were soon taken before we pressed on past fields of Ox-eye Daisies to our lunch stop in another sheltered spot near Langton Herring.

The going was easy, much more so than on the roughty toughty coastlines of previous years' trips, so we soon arrived at a random spot near East Fleet where Liz, the eleventh member of our party, was patiently waiting after a long bus journey from Exeter.

We ambled on, along an increasingly 'industrialised' coastline, past a firing range and an army training ground - interspersed with a camp site and a holiday park. The verges were full of sweet smelling flowers.

Ferry Bridge, in Weymouth, was reached at 3.40pm. An enticing looking café - the Crab House Café - had closed for the afternoon, but a nearby ice cream kiosk provided sustenance. That gave us the energy to continue for another four km or so to our B+B.

Our walk was brightened by some chirpy chaffinches before we descended to the ferry terminal, where we were confronted by a huge black cloud. Leakage from that was surprisingly minimal, and we all managed to stay vaguely dry, for a while, until our shower cubicles were pressed into use.

So it was a very clean bunch of diners that reconvened at the Red Lion in Winfrith for an excellent nosh and a sideways glance at Man Utd being thrashed by Barca in the Champions League final.

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The Fleet Lagoon

It's great to be back on the South West Coast Path with some of our old 'ex Jo'berg Hiking Club' friends.

This year's section started today from the picturesque village of Abbotsbury. The route follows inland paths for a while to protect the wildlife from marauding humans, eventually regaining the coast here at The Fleet Lagoon.

It hasn't rained here for weeks, but as you might gather from the picture, I seem to have brought the 'weather' with me from Scotland!

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TGO Challenge 2011 - Index, Gear, etc

Thanks for your kind comments, everyone.

Thanks also to any Challengers who may read this, for helping to make this year's Challenge so friendly and sociable, and to Mike for keeping me company. It was great to meet Colin Crawford - my vetter, fellow bloggers Louise and Laura, and many other new and old friends at Montrose campsite and at the Park Hotel last night.

Mike and I only used two B+Bs - at Oban and at Bridge of Gaur, where Eddie and Heather's hospitality was unforgettable. We hope to visit you again soon.

The staff at Ballater, North Water Bridge and Montrose campsites were all very friendly and helpful, given their sudden bombardment by lots of bearded backpackers, Ballater in particular being extremely kind in letting 20 of us sleep in their back office rather than throwing us all out to find B+Bs in conditions that were too dangerous for camping.

An index for this year's postings will be provided in due course.

But for now, after yesterday's wonderful evening celebrating the successful conclusion of a Challenge in wet conditions, but mainly applauding Roger Smith's efforts as coordinator over the past 20 years, I'm already moving on to the next trip.

Today's image is one taken last Sunday from the summit plateau of Ben Avon.

Here are a few initial comments concerning kit:

Star performers: RAB SuperDru jacket, RAB Bergen overtrousers, and Sealskinz socks worn continuously for 8 days - no water ingress at all with any of these items.
Phoenix Phreerunner Goretex tent - used and abused for many years - slight ingress in a major storm was easily dealt with using a J-cloth.
Scarpa Infinity Goretex lined boots - these old boots were supremely comfortable, any slight seepage being easily dealt with by the Sealskinz socks that dried overnight.
Karrimor XXL dry bag (new) - the only dry bag used, for everything, and it worked.

Problems: Sealskinz gloves - very soggy when wet but dry inside unless you insert (with difficulty) wet digits. Not suitable for severe weather. Any suggestions?

Major concern: frayed hip belt, both sides, on Go-Lite Quest rucksack. This three year old rucksack has been worn for around four months in total. It's irreparable, so had a disappointingly short life despite good weight and comfort.

Breakages:
Ortlieb 2 litre water carrier - seam failure on this old piece of kit.
Avon Skin So Soft - turned out to have crystallised despite a 2012 sell-by date.
Lifeventure silk liner - worn seam at bottom - had to tie a knot in it; these liners seem less than durable.
Matches - didn't take enough! Bought a lighter at Dalwhinnie.

That's all for now from the 2011 TGO Challenge. Thanks for watching!

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Thursday 26 May 2011 - TGO Challenge Day 14 - North Water Bridge to Nether Woodston Beach (NO 756 648 - 0 metres)

Route: almost exactly as planned.
See http://www.topwalks.com/tgoc2011.html Day 14 for map

Distance: 16km (Cum 350) [Mike 16 - Cum 333]
Ascent: 250 metres (Cum 12130) [Mike 250 - Cum 9395]
Time taken: 3.2hrs including 0.2hrs stops
Weather: heavy rain overnight, then easing as we started walking and fine for most of the walk.
Challengers encountered: we walked with both Peter ('Morpeth') and Mick ('Croydon') at times and finished together with Mick, Markus and Silke. Hundreds of other Challengers are here in Montrose.
Others encountered: none worthy of mention
Flora and Fauna: coastal flowers
Best bit: the award ceremony
Worst bit: the café at St Cyrus being shut
Number of days in full waterproofs: 9+ (for Lynsey)

A short walk to the coast ended the fortnight's physical endurance test.

There followed an afternoon and evening of socialising, during which Roger Smith handed over the organiser's mantle to John Manning.

It was a memorable night, of which more in due course.

A small section of the campsite at Montrose is pictured. Unlike last year, it wasn't raining!

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Nether Woodston - Thursday 26 May 2011 - 11.15am - TGO Challenge

Mike and Martin, with nowhere further to go....

Finished!

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Wednesday 25 May 2011 - TGO Challenge Day 13 - Water of Aven to North Water Bridge Camp Site (NO 650 663 - 30 metres)

Route: as planned apart from a navigationally challenging additional 2km as a result of taking the wrong road out of Fettercairn (I take full responsibility!).
See http://www.topwalks.com/tgoc2011.html Day 13 for map

Distance: 37km (Cum 334) [Mike 37 - Cum 317]
Ascent: 760 metres (Cum 11880) [Mike 760 - Cum 9145]
Time taken: 10.7hrs including 2hrs stops
Weather: dreich - intermittent rain, low cloud, cold
Challengers encountered: we walked the first section with Roger Boston, and also encountered Markus and Silke and four others at the tea shop in Fettercairn. Plus 50 to 60 Challengers on the camp site at North Water Bridge
Others encountered: various, including a friendly farmer, excellent tea shop staff, and Arthur.
Flora and Fauna: partridges, yellowhammer, verges laden with pink purslane, and fields of garlic mustard
Best bit: finding the trig point on Hound Hillock / celebrating Stefan's birthday
Worst bit: taking the wrong road out of Fettercairn (Oops!)

Today's walk started with our final big hill of this year's Challenge, Mount Battock. Roger joined Mike and me up here, to bring his tally of Munros and Corbetts to 12 (not bad for a man with two new knees), whilst I have done 8 and Mike 4.

The weather was overcast, cold and dreary, and it started to rain soon after we set off. This is Roger's home patch (he lives in Elgin), and before departing towards Clachnaben, Kerloch and the Fetteresso Forest, he delighted in pointing out an array of small summits to our north.

Meanwhile, Mike and I followed Markus and Silke beside the Burn of Badymicks to Charr Bothy, where Arthur was in residence.
"This is a Five Star Bothy" he announced, "it has central heating." He pointed to the three candles placed strategically under his chair, and explained that he is one half of the MBDT (Mountain Bothy Decorating Team) and that he and his mate Tommy ("only in his seventies") call themselves the "one and a half coffin dodgers". He was waiting for all the Challengers to go through before continuing with his decorating duties for the MBA (Mountain Bothies Association).

Mike and I continued up Hound Hillock, our very last summit. Although only just over 500 metres in stature, the peat hag ridden cloud covered crest of this little beauty made location of the summit trig point less than straightforward. Photos were duly snapped.

A reluctant descent to Fettercairn brought us to the excellent café - The Arch - whose scones and cakes were delicious. Markus and Silke were there, gorging themselves.

It seems that they then set off from there in the opposite direction to us. Villages can be so disorientating! We were both 90 degrees out, but my mistake was worse, adding two km to our day, which was already the longest of the crossing in terms of mileage. At least the extra distance was along a pleasant track beside fields of garlic mustard (pictured).

A long straight road led eventually to this newly mown and very lush camp site, where nearly fifty Challengers' tents are now installed. Needless to say, it has been a most sociable evening, including the celebration of Stefan's birthday - a day early - with Stefan producing a bottle of whisky, and Colin Tock presenting him with a hastily baked (purchased?) cake.

It was drizzling, but warm and calm, so quite acceptable in terms of this year's weather.

Happy Days...

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Tuesday 24 May 2011 - TGO Challenge Day 12 - Ballater to Water of Aven (NO 549 871 - 440 metres) A Fine Day for a Cheese and Wine Party!

Route: as planned with minor amendments and a short cut to the finish.
See http://www.topwalks.com/tgoc2011.html Day 12 for map

Distance: 31km (Cum 297) [Mike 31 - Cum 280]
Ascent: 900 metres (Cum 11120) NB did you spot yesterday's error? [Mike 900 - Cum 8385]
Time taken: 8.5hrs including 1.5hrs stops [Mike 9.8hrs incl 2hrs stops]
Weather: Fine and sunny, with a cool wind.
Challengers encountered: Roger Boston and I walked together today, whilst Mike went on ahead. We encountered Peter and Barbara a couple of times and nearly caught up with another solo Challenger on the Firmounth Road.
Markus and Silke joined us at our wild camp at Water of Aven.
Others encountered: none of any significance.
Flora and Fauna: wheatears
Best bit: lovely weather, and the beautiful Forest of Glen Tanar
Worst bit: frightening Peter when he didn't spot us behind him (foolish but funny).

Thanks Eddie, Lyn, Tony (we did spot Steve in a café in Ballater and passed on your best wishes over a pot of tea), Sue (I didn't get a photo of the wildcat, I'm afraid), Alan and others for your comments. They are much appreciated.

Last night's accommodation in the room behind the campsite office resembled (I'm struggling for words) - a doss house.

But for the twenty or so incumbents it represented a safe haven from the wind and rain outside. We'd enjoyed an excellent meal at the Alexandra and even JJ and his mates, Croydon and Morpeth, were happy to bed down early. Once Mike had moved into the annex by the freezer it was surprisingly quiet. I think we all slept well.

Mike set off soon after 7pm. There was much discussion amongst others about routes. Ours was clear - our planned route would prevail, but others hadn't planned to be in Ballater.

Roger had decided to amend his route to coincide with ours today, so he and I enjoyed a second breakfast and a coffee at a café before setting off along the disused railway line to Dinnet, where we enjoyed another coffee in the hotel, together with Peter and Barbara.

Today's route, albeit almost bereft of hills, was a delight. The track along the disused railway line was excellent, and through the forest (pictured) it was even better. Then, on emerging from the forest onto the Hill of Duchery, it was an equally pleasant walk to Birse Castle and beyond, where we finally caught up with Mike at 4.30.

Mike had enjoyed a day at his own pace. His bruised foot is getting better.

By 5pm we had reached Water of Aven, our chosen destination for this final wild camp of the trip. It was a fitting venue for the cheese and wine party we enjoyed once Markus and Silke arrived at 7.30pm, having had a late breakfast at their B+B.

This is a good spot. Remote, flat, with a selection of springs, and, like all our wild camps on this trip (indeed, any of my TGOC trips), free of insects and ticks. The company tonight is equally good, with just the call of the grouse to accompany our laughter.

A fine day at last. Even the wind has got tired of pestering us tonight. Wonderful!

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Monday 23 May 2011 - TGO Challenge Day 11 - By Loch Builg to Ballater Camp Site (NO 370 952 - 200 metres)

Route: as planned, starting 4km into the route. Mike did the FWA omitting Craigendarroch.
See http://www.topwalks.com/tgoc2011.html Day 11 for map

Distance: 27km (Cum 266) [Mike 25 - Cum 249]
Ascent: 1965 metres (Cum 10220) [Mike 400 - Cum 7485]
Time taken: 6.8hrs including 0.7hr stops [Mike 5.9hrs incl 0.6hr stops]
Weather: rain all day, and quite windy.
Challengers encountered: Roger B - all day, numerous in Ballater.
Others encountered: nobody daft enough to be out walking, other than Challengers.
Flora and Fauna: the crows were flying backwards
Best bit: a hot shower at Ballater camp site
Worst bit: wearing waterproofs all day (again) but at least we are dry.

The rain started around 4am, and the wind gradually increased, on this our eighth day out eleven wearing full waterproofs.

Nevertheless, it's a lovely valley walk from Loch Builg to Ballater, and with the 'weather' mostly at our backs, we still enjoyed it.

Roger joined us for the entire walk, which was conducted in wind and rain, without sufficient respite for a brew stop.

Roger and I trotted up Craigendarroch (I'm pictured there) whilst Mike found his way to the camp site. We followed, after calling TGO Control, where Roger Smith sounded stressed. We found out why when we got to the camp site. Trees had blown down where Challengers had been pitched last night. So we are not camping. We are in a big room in the camp site office. About a dozen of us. It'll be noisy!

Elsewhere, it seems Challengers are stranded with even some low level routes being impassable.

We are looking forward to a leisurely evening with Markus, Silke and Roger, as well as numerous others, in the Alexandra, where Bill Strang tried but failed to reach us - sorry not to be seeing you Bill!

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Sunday 22 May 2011 - TGO Challenge Day 10 - Clais Fhearnaig to By Loch Builg (NJ 195 026 - 490 metres)

Camp site at Lochbuilg

Route:
Martin - as planned but starting part way (5km) into the route and finishing 4km into tomorrow's route.
Mike - FWA from last night's finishing point to today's planned FWA finish - ie a direct, low level route via Quoich Water and the River Gairn.

See http://www.topwalks.com/tgoc2011.html Day 10 for map

Distance: 25km (Cum 239) [Mike 20 - Cum 224]
Ascent: 1345 metres (Cum 9600) [Mike 540 - Cum 7085]
Time taken: 8.3hrs including 1hr stops [Mike 7.5hrs incl 1.3hr stops]

Weather: blustery showers, wintry above 900 metres, with a strong buffeting wind.

Challengers encountered: Roger (Bionic Knee) Boston, at Loch Builg, who is camping nearby.

Others encountered: by Martin - 4 walkers on Ben Avon, whilst Mike saw nobody on the FWA. Ten mountain bikers were taking a break near Loch Builg.

Flora and Fauna: rabbits and hares, ptarmigan, large beds of Creeping Azalea, Cloudberry.

Best bit: the views from the summits

Worst bit: debilitating wind for several hours

As you may have noticed, I found a phone signal this morning due to finding a hill, after being down low for a while. I enjoyed reading the story of Gibson and Lynne's dog adventure on Ben Avon (see comment on yesterday's posting). It arrived just as I paused to gather my breath in a sheltered spot on that very summit!
It rained all night. So Mike tells me. Even in such weather I sleep well in the old Phreerunner tent, pictured above where I'm now sitting.

Luckily, the rain stopped shortly before we rose, and the sun dried my tent. Mike's dried a bit, but was soaked with condensation.

Clais Fhearnaig is a beautiful cleft with orchids and lochans. It links Glen Lui with Glen Quoich via a lovely path that was a pleasure to walk along this morning.

Mike then took the delightful but otherwise unoccupied route via Quoich Water and the River Gairn, whilst I took the long but easy path up to the 1197 metre North Top of Beinn a' Bhuird. When I set off the cloud base was hanging at about 1000 metres, so I'd expected to spend a few hours in the cloud. The wind put paid to that. At times I was admiring the view, trying to keep the camera both still and dry, and thinking that the walk would have been much easier in a benign cloud than it was in a howling gale and frequent wintry squalls that threatened to blow you away unless you were pinned to the ground!

I hope some of the photos come out...

Whilst I made it to the Munro summits, the slightly unnerving experience of scrambling to the summit tor of Ben Avon discouraged me from risking life and limb by visiting the other tors. I'll have to wait for another opportunity to enjoy that on a calmer day. I skirted them, in the lee of the gale.

Whilst this morning's ascent had been very docile, this afternoon's descent was quite the opposite, with the gale buffeting me down to 600 metres, from where steep, heathery, rocky, boggy (ie difficult) ground led down to Loch Builg.

After passing the mountain bikers I came across a well constructed, unmissable sign that directed me from our rendezvous map reference to this sheltered spot just a few metres away but well hidden from the path.

Roger was chatting to Mike, having arrived from a valley to the north of Ben Avon. Roger is renowned for his imaginative high routes. This year, like us, he has been forced to abandon several of his 'high' days due to the poor weather. His most distressing day had however featured an encounter with a newly bulldozed 'motorway' in the wild country of the Monadhliath Mountains, which showed no thought for or sympathy with the landscape.

Mike seems to have managed fine today - there has been no mention of poorly feet, and he's now out of earshot (though only five metres away) due to wind and rain.

Tomorrow it's an easy stroll to Ballater, where a more sociable phase of the Challenge gets under way, so don't expect very much by way of postings for the next few days - there's probably not much more to say anyway, though I'm sure some dramatic stories will eventually unfold.

Finally, my sympathy goes to those partying in Braemar tonight and planning on going over Lochnagar tomorrow - here's the forecast (thank you, Sue) that I received earlier:
"Extremely windy on Monday as a swathe of hurricane force winds on mountain tops tracks across Scotland. There will also be torrential rain on many mountains."

There's a slideshow of around 40 images for the day here, including a detailed route map.

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Saturday 21 May 2011 - TGO Challenge Day 9 - Ruigh-aiteachain Bothy to path junction at Clais Fhearnaig (NO 057 923 - 400 metres)

Route: FWA exactly as planned, subject to arriving back on tomorrow's route, ie we continued up Glen Feshie and across the watershed to Geldie Lodge, then on via White Bridge, the Linn of Dee and Glen Lui.
See http://www.topwalks.com/tgoc2011.html Day 9 for map of planned route - we took a lower option to the south

Distance: 30km (Cum 214) [Mike 30 - Cum 204]
Ascent: 660 metres (Cum 8255) [Mike 660 - Cum 6545]
Time taken: 9.2hrs including 1.7hrs stops

Weather: spitting with rain in the morning, but we ignored it; steady rain in the afternoon and evening, with strong wind easing. Noticeably warmer this evening - 14C in the tent
Challengers encountered: we were pleased to see Peter and Barbara shortly after setting off. They had waded across the River Feshie last night during which Peter had a Jelly (Croc) failure, but their spare tent pole had worked and they were fine - last seen heading effortlessly towards Mar Lodge. Then we came across Ken and Norma Proudler, with impressively light loads and a very relaxed regime involving low levels and a B+B or hotel every third night. Next we found first timers Sue and David Tooth crossing the Geldie Burn after walking up the Tilt from Blair Atholl this morning. They managed the crossing easily in their Terroc shoes, and we then walked with them for a while before sheltering from the rain in a copse whilst they brewed up and sorted out their socks. We left them to wander down to Mar Lodge in their own time. On our way up Glen Lui we met a friend from previous Challenges, Judith Barnes.
Others encountered: a mountain biker on his way from Montrose to Fort William in four days - heading for Kingussie tonight - he looked fit but wet. Three backpackers came from the Braemar direction. More mountain bikers were heading down to the Linn of Dee, including a couple with dogs in their rucksacks! Then numerous day walkers coming from the direction of Derry Lodge. They all looked very wet.
Flora and Fauna: there's a fair smattering of Cuckoo Flower (Lady's Smock) over the route at this time of year, and much of the Butterwort we saw today was in flower.
Best bit: bumping into Judith / realising that my feet are still dry!
Worst bit: the rain has returned - we have worn full waterproof gear for five whole days and for half of two days - ie 6 out of 9 days so far.

Poor Mike. He burnt holes in his groundsheet last night when a match head misbehaved. Then his watch adjusted itself to Central European Time and he got up "an hour early" - at 4am, though why he should normally get up at 5am I don't know...

Anyway, he was all packed up and waiting to leave when I woke at 6.30 - he had been reluctant to enter the bothy as he didn't want to disturb Richard, whose snores were as loud as those coming from Mike himself whilst Stefan and I were chatting last night.

We left at 7.45 and soon came across P+B, then we plodded happily up the Feshie valley, through natural pine woodland - very pretty.

Once in the open, at around 400-500 metres, the cold wind gnawed at us. We were so thankful that, as throughout this Challenge, it was on our backs.

A draughty brew stop provided a welcome break before we moved on to the Eidart Bridge (pictured), and the watershed where we met the friendly mountain biker.

Past Geldie Lodge (a ruin), Ken and Norma were enjoying lunch in a sheltered alcove. We joined them.

Then it was a slow descent all the way down to the Linn of Dee, during which we walked for a while with Sue and David. Mike's feet started to suffer for the first time, so he was relieved when we finally came to rest at this scenic spot. Unfortunately heavy rain has stopped play on the scenery front, and we are stuck in our tents, cooking and snoozing.

Just before arriving here, a familiar figure approached.
"Where are You going" quizzed Judith. "Braemar" I joked. Judith looked puzzled, "where's my shortbread" she countered. "Next year!" I offered, "I have a plan*."
"Is this 'Poor Michael'?" asked Judith, pointing at my weary companion.
"Yes" replied Mike, "do you mind if I sit down, M'I duggereb", he said, before giving an impressive impersonation of a jelly.
"Oh dear, Poor Michael" observed Judith, before hastening on to Mar Lodge after having come through the Lairig Ghru today.

(I'm giving Mike a day off tomorrow - don't worry - he'll take a short, low route whilst I go over Ben Avon.)

I hope this rain stops...

*I'm hoping to get Sue, the 'shortbread lady' back on the Challenge next year. She will no doubt arm herself with goodies for everyone she meets, and will also be available, at a high price, (Mr Pigeon!) for foot massages.

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Friday 20 May 2011 - TGO Challenge Day 8 - By Loch Cuaich to Camp by Ruigh-aiteachain Bothy (NN 846 928 - 360 metres)

Route: virtually as planned, with Mike omitting Meall Chuaich and tomorrow's FWA up the Feshie started in preference to Allt Fhearnagan, with other minor adjustments.
See http://www.topwalks.com/tgoc2011.html Day 8 for map

Distance: 29km (Cum 184) [Mike 29 - Cum 174]
Ascent: 1240 metres (Cum 7595) [Mike 970 - Cum 5885]
Time taken: 10.7hrs including 2.6hrs stops
Weather: rain all night, turning to snow when we got up, then wintry showers all day, with spells of sunshine and spectacular rainbows (pictured)
Challengers encountered: Peter and Barbara this morning - we thought they would come here, but they haven't arrived, Richard Fuell who arrived a little while ago and is staying in the bothy, and Stefan, who has just (9.30) arrived by a different route. He has sore feet!
Others encountered: nobody
Flora and Fauna: mountain hares on Meall Chuaich
Best bit: fabulous rainbows over Glen Feshie
Worst bit: having full waterproofs on all day

After raining all night, it went quiet in the tents. Snow.

Nevertheless, I couldn't resist going up Meall Chuaich. It was even quite pleasant on top, by winter standards. I stayed for some time.

Meanwhile Mike caught up Peter and Barbara and found me by chance at Allt na Fearna. We spent an hour over a brew, and with some difficulty replaced a pole section on P+B's Nallo tent.

We left P+B to potter along at their own pace and enjoyed a bit of sunshine between the showers. An otherwise idyllic lunch spot on the bank of a river housed a cold wind that deterred us from brewing up.

A mixture of rough but easy ground and Land Rover tracks took us easily up to the summit of Carn Dearg Mor, Mike's first Corbett. A high wind made it unpleasant to stay long, though the views towards the Cairngorm plateau were great.

Mike continued on whilst I hunkered down to post the previous entry, during which one of several wintry squalls passed over, resulting in a spectacular rainbow.

The rest of today's walk was uneventful, even to the extent of the bothy being empty when we arrived. But Richard is now ensconced in there, and the ever jolly Stefan, who is proud to have seen an adder today, is again camping next to us on a fine patch of grass behind the bothy.

This is a lovely area of natural pine forest. I've enjoyed the evening (we arrived here at 6.15) gazing at it from the door of the tent.

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