Thursday 1 August 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 48 - Stage 34 to 37 variant (4) - Below Port d'Incles to camp near Refuge du Rulhe

Distance: 10 km (Cum: 708 km)     

Ascent: 750 metres (Cum: 41,370 metres)
                     
Time taken: 5.0 hrs including 1.0 hrs stops                                     

Weather: a 'blue sky' day

A short day to end my four day excursion on the HRP. Classic HRP country - very slow going over big boulders for quite a bit of the time, superlative mountain views, and the sun beating down. 

My camp site looked nice enough, and I got a great night's sleep with the door open (midge net shut).  It was a starry night, very calm, shocking for the deer that nearly stumbled over my tent, and dark for the little procession of folk who seemed to be tackling Port d'Incles as a night hike. 

The only problem was the plague of mosquitos. 

The little blighters followed me all the way up the HRP path to 2300 metres. Even when I got a strong phone signal it was pretty much impossible to stop for long enough to do very much without getting bitten. There's no signal here at the Refuge, so this will be posted in the morning. 

I regained the path marked on my map a little below Refuge de Juclar, perched at about 2300 metres above Estany de Juclar (a small lake), from where an adventurous path led around the side of the lake to the excellent camping spot recommended by Simon. Sadly if I had pressed on last night I'd have arrived too late to enjoy the spot.

There were a few people around in this lovely area that is well served by refuges. I made my way over Collada de Juclar and back into France, lunching on my last Salade Parisienne - the one with tuna and mushrooms and mayo, before ambling on to Refuge du Rulhe, arriving before 2pm.

So I've had a half day today, but not as lazy as Pierre and Yolaine's day - they arrived yesterday and are resting here today. It's quite acceptable to camp nearby and eat at the Refuge, as long as you don't camp on the helicopter pad.

It's great to see P&Y again. Their rest was well earned as on Tuesday they had a very hard day from Rialb cabin to Refuge du Juclar. 

Today's photos: the top one is the Estany de Juclar, from near the refuge, and my excellent camping spot is below. 

Tomorrow: another easy day on GR10. 

Later: spent a pleasant few minutes with an English family staying at the Refuge. The first English people I've seen since Luchon. They are on a six day circuit from Ax-les-Thermes, backpacking and hutting. I hope it inspires them to do more. 

The refuge staff were very friendly, the meal was good, and the company (P&Y) exceptional. 

The refuge is in a great spot. The sun finally dropped out of a still cloudless sky at nearly nine o'clock. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Occasional Pyrenean Flowers (16)

Yellow Turks-Cap Lily (Lilium pyrenaicum) - not the most frequently seen flower of the trip. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Wednesday 31 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 47 - Stages 34 to 37 variant (3) - El Serrat to beside Rio Manegor below Port d'Ingles (2000 metres)

Distance: 19 km (Cum: 698 km)     

Ascent: 1780 metres (Cum: 40,620 metres)
                     
Time taken: 9.0 hrs including 1.5 hrs stops                                     

Weather: perfect summer's day, if a bit hot

It was great to hear from Simon Harper yesterday. Well done to him for finishing the HRP when so many others have been unable to do so. On his own as well. Respect. I'm sure that people like Humphrey, David and Alistair (not to mention Chantal) will agree. 

I decided to 'fuel up' with a hotel breakfast this morning - there are no shops here (I knew that, hence setting off with several days' food on Monday) - so that made for another late start on a hot day. But at least El Serrat is at 1500 metres, so there was less than usual woodland ascent to enjoy (endure?) before striking out over open ground. 

I soon passed the lone lady backpacker I'd seen a couple of days ago.  She is Natalie, from Brittany, walking the HRP over three summers in three week stretches. This is her final stretch - Vicdessos to Banyuls. I'm unlikely to see her again because I'll  probably be ahead of her when I next encounter the HRP. 

Today was a classic mountain day, crossing two separate ridges, each at around 2600 metres. I really felt I was making progress across the landscape, though the extensive mountain views both east and west show no sign of abating. 

The first landmark passed after leaving El Serrat was Sorteny Refuge. I recall a rather strange, ill equipped place, but now it's being made into a full service refuge. A big project. 

The flowers were great today. A series of 'occasional flowers' could result from today's sightings. I also saw  a slow worm, eagles, and a few shy marmots. 

There was lots of Thrift up at today's first col - la Collada deis Meners. It's flanked by two climbable 2912 metre peaks. I'd considered going up the more accessible of the two, but decided that the panorama from the col was more than good enough for today. 

The top picture shows the view from there back towards El Serrat and yesterday's hills.

A fine belvedere then led to an unmanned hut called Jan, where a couple seemed to be in residence. 

Today was spent entirely on the HRP path, which has excellent red and yellow waymarks hereabouts. I don't remember them from my previous visits, and the route from Jan has changed. It now contours (if a stiff 400 metre ascent to the second 2600 metre pass of the day can be described as 'contouring') round to another cabane - Cabane Sorda. This meant my planned camping spot by the Clot lakes was by-passed. I was tempted to go down there, but the area seemed to be full of horses. 

After seeing just a handful of people all day, I found hordes of children at Sorda, either staying in the cabin or camping. I hurried past.

By now I was missing my afternoon tea and fancied stopping, but the path had switched to a hillside with no water. There seemed to be little choice - camp with horses, or without water.

I was feeling fine so just continued, in the knowledge that Simon had suggested a good spot a bit further on. Then, just before 6pm, the head of this valley appeared, with flat ground, no horses, and lots of springs. Perfect. The tent was up, and a brew on, in no time at all. 

The view from my front door isn't to be sniffed at either. See lower picture. 

Oh, and who says the HRP is flat compared with GR10?  

It's back to GR10 tomorrow, probably by a roundabout route, as the direct route over Port d'Ingles looks a bit too simple. 

No signal here so I've no idea when this will 'send'.  A couple of comments from Nightbird did get through, though, reminding me to use my own photos, not Sue's, when entering photo competitions! 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

The Crux

You can't quite see my footprints, but it was about 100 vertical metres from the start of the snowfield to the innocuous looking rocks that would have arrested any slip.

People reading this with GR10 in mind need not worry - this is on the optional 'fly free' route! 

Don't worry if I go awol for a few days - it's remote country until Mérens on Friday.  I haven't heard from Pierre, so I assume a phone signal is hard to come by. 

Sent from a safe haven in Andorra

Tuesday 30 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 46 - Stages 34 to 37 variant (2) - Étang de Petsiguer to El Serrat

Distance: 11 km (Cum: 679 km)     

Ascent: 550 metres (Cum: 38,840 metres)
                     
Time taken: 5.5 hrs including 1.0 hrs stops                                     

Weather: a beautiful summer's day

Waking at six o'clock to a clear sky and 6°C, with masses of condensation, was no incentive for getting up, especially as I thought I had a fairly short day ahead of me. 

So a brew and a lie in followed, whilst watching the half moon dawdle across the sky above me and the sun slowly cast its light down the hillside before me. 

A delightful way to start the day, and magic when the sun finally reaches you and quickly warms everything in its ambit.

So it was ten o'clock by the time I set off from the lovely wild campsite, pictured top in the direction I was heading. 

I was wise to stop when I did last night, not because of a shortage of suitable sites, but because frequent snow fields required deviations from the path, which was quite difficult to follow anyway. 

I saw a shepherd pass by before striking camp, but then nobody, and not really any sign of anyone having been here.

Yesterday's belvedere path was soon lost to view and I made my way very slowly towards Étang de Goueille.

The area by the Petsiguer lakes was interesting, with rudimentary stone shelters, and ground covered with Trumpet Gentians and flitting Wheatears and Stonechats. Houseleeks were also in evidence here. I stopped frequently. The views were sublime. 

There were several path junctions, one of which I took by mistake, until an impossible snow gully turned me back.

I was lucky. Every time the path disappeared under a bank of snow and I thought I'd lost it for good, it reappeared as if by magic. 

Eventually the red and white stripes of the HRP path from Fourcats joined from the right, and my entry point into Andorra,  Port de l'Albeille, came into view. In the absence of a back up plan, I was relieved to see that the 2601 metre col looked feasible, albeit there was a lot of snow to get around. 

So on I continued, taking loads of photos, eventually making my way over very rough ground to reach the col soon after midday. Time for lunch. There was no sign of anyone having been to this spot for some time, though I could see folk far below by the Tristaina lakes in Andorra. 

The middle image was taken from the col, looking back into France. 

I received at this point a message from Pierre and Yolaine. It seemed they had chosen a different route into Andorra from Fourcats. It looked harder on my map. 

The marked path then rose along the ridge to the south east for a few metres, before heading in steep zigzags down scree. I had been sure it would by-pass the massive snow slope below. 

Wrong. The path led straight into the snow, which was guarded on either side by rock buttresses well beyond my level of skill.

What to do?  

I thought about my back up plan, and about the nice hotel booked in El Serrat. 

'Graham could do this with his eyes shut' I thought. 

I shut my eyes.  It didn't work. 

I tested the slope. It was steep, but if I kicked hard I got a bit of grip. For 100 metres? Anyway, I knew what would happen if I hesitated. So I set off. A few metres at a time. Digging in hard to rest. Moving like a drunken crab. A black dot on a sheet of white.

A long time later four French lads ran up to me as I strolled nonchalantly past them. 

"Nice t-shirt" I remarked to the one in Patagonian blue. 

"Yes" he replied "we had planned to go to Fourcats that way, but we watched you come down. What shall we do?"

I knew Pierre and Yolaine had found a better route (at least I hope it was better) so I called Pierre but the phone was turned off.  The lads really didn't fancy going up the steep snow - it would have become increasingly frightening the more tired and higher they got. So they sensibly rang Fourcats, whose guardian helpfully provided an acceptable alternative, probably the route P&Y took.

In the bottom picture the col I came over is the lowest point on the horizon. I'll find an easier way back into France in a couple of days' time. 

The walk down to El Serrat should then have been fairly mundane, but the HRP path is a devilish creation. It seemed to take me past a waterfall beside which the path was as steep as the waterfall. A series of rock bands that I needed to shimmy down on my bum made life interesting, as did the deep bog the path crossed at the bottom. 

But after crossing a road the woodland route to El Serrat was lovely and relaxing, so I was well composed when I strolled into the Niunit Hotel. 

"A large beer, please."

It was only 3.30pm. 

A short but memorable day in the hills!

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Occasional Pyrenean Flowers (15)

I saw lots of this beside yesterday's belvedere path. I think it's the flower head of Mountain Onion (Allium montanum).

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Monday 29 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 45 - Stages 34 to 37 variant (1) - Auzat to Étang de Petsiguer (2240 metres)

Distance: 17 km (Cum: 668 km)      

Ascent: 1520 metres (Cum: 38,290 metres)
                     
Time taken: 7.5 hrs including 1.0 hrs stops                                      

Weather: sunny periods, cloud later

A perfect day for a fine walk. A bright Monday morning brought a freshness that was lacking last week, for this third part of my GR10 crossing, companionwise. Having lost Sue, and now Graham, I am all alone. That means I can go at my own speed, pause whenever I want, and not worry about Sue being left too far behind or Graham being kept waiting for too long. 

I've climbed over 1500 metres today, with a heavy pack containing food for several days, but as the climbing was mainly very gradual and spread over the entire 17 km of walking, it doesn't feel like it. 

Stuffed full of Yves's breakfast, and my head still buzzing from the bangs and crashes of last night's excellent fireworks finale to Auzat's fête, I wandered up the quiet sunken lane to Olbier. A lovely way to start the day. An early mountain biker was pushing his steed down the hill, obviously afraid of losing control near a steep drop. 

Olbier turned out to be a hamlet of narrow streets full of shuttered terraced cottages. I wonder whether the aluminium factory workers lived here, or is it an ancient farming community?

A similar gentle path led on to Goulier. I was finding the ascent over slippery rocks easier than yesterday's descent, despite the heavy load.

I passed the Croix de Massot and pee'd behind a tree called Leo. I wondered what the tree thought about its name. (Walking alone has some peculiar effects!)

At Goulier the unmistakable red and white daubs of the GR10 directed me south, up the steepest hill of the day. Bizarrely, I was now travelling towards Hendaye. I'm sure Marceau Derrieu (1912-81) would have smiled from his grave. I soon came across a monument to this man, who died in the mountains near here. It was he who 'fathered' the GR10 footpath, this section being opened in 1975.

I'd passed horses with bells, in the woods, and even spotted a couple of tractors (too modern to be of interest), at which point a plaintive comment arrived from Alan R. It's such a shame that I didn't inspect the tractor at Aulus more closely - I thought Alan would recognise it instantly. ..

The path had climbed gently through the Forêt Domaniale de Goulier Auzat - lovely walking at 15°C with a gentle cool draught and not a fly in sight. Views were starting to open up as we approached the memorial to Marceau Derrieu, with Small Yellow Foxgloves littering the hillside. 

At around 1400 metres (I'd started at 750) the path stopped rising and embarked on a wonderful long belvedere for a few kilometres. It wound its precarious way around the steep hillside. A slip here would be disastrous but luckily the path offers a metre or so of width in most places. 

Harebells were coming increasingly into frame, and the bright purple flower heads of Mountain Onion were also splashed beside the path. 

I was delighting in a freshness to the weather that has been absent of late.  A few minutes were passed with five French walkers on their way to the Fourcat refuge where Pierre and Yolaine were last night. They were taking their time around the precipitous belvedere, and on the look out for izards. I looked as well. I saw plenty of lizards! 

There were good views to a jagged ridge across the valley, but the highest summits remained cloaked in a stubborn cloud. 

Two small rams pottered along in front of me for a while as the path rose to 1550 metres by a junction that led down to Arties. The upper picture was taken near here, looking back to a less precipitous section of the path.  There was lots of Broomrape and Fringed Pinks in this area. Before lunching myself, at 1800 metres or so, I passed a lady backpacker lunching some way off the path amidst a herd of cattle. Looking back later, I could see no sign of this lady, nor of the French group. 

A sheep looked injured. On closer viewing, it was afterbirth, and a new born lamb was vigorously exercising its lungs.  One lamb amongst a large flock. I thought the rams were a shifty pair.

Shortly after that, a wired section of path saw me stashing my poles and map case and easing myself along the wire across the steep wet rock. I was glad I'd stashed the poles. 

Then I forsook the red and white path leading to Fourcats, in favour of a thin path with yellow waymarks, rising past rushing streams lined with Marsh Marigolds and Alpenrose, which effectively by-passes the refuge. I was last here with Dave, on 24 August 1994, when I seem to recall the main feature of the walk being the cloud in which we passed the day. We camped a bit further on then. Today the cloud wasn't far above me when I stopped at this fine spot (pictured) at 3.30pm. It's in the Snowbell zone at about 2240 metres, just before Étang de Petsiguer. There are some large patches of snow nearby.  I took full advantage of the nice weather while it lasted, but as I write I'm engulfed in the thickest cloud of the trip. It's about 10 metres visibility, so extremely unwise to venture far from the tent - you'd get soaked by the cloud, and. .. have you ever tried to find a tent in a white out?

Anyway, I'm making inroads into the giant bag of food and have all my needs (not the Internet of course, and a Kindle would be handy) so I'm quite happy here in my cloud. 

I'll send this sometime tomorrow when I have a signal. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Sunday 28 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 44 - Stage 33 (variant) - Étang de Bassiès to Auzat, via Vicdessos

Distance: 14 km (Cum: 651 km)     

Ascent: 100 metres (Cum: 36,770 metres)
                     
Time taken: 5.75 hrs including 1.5 hrs stops                                     

Weather: cloudy with light rain at one point, but sunny periods developed later. Pleasantly warm

To my surprise, it rained in the night, with distant lightning flashes but no thunder. 

I'd planned a lie in, and woke late at 7am, but there was no sign of the sun, and the mozzies seemed lethargic, so I was almost ready to go when Graham set off at 8am.  He was anxious to get to Tarascon - about ten miles beyond Vicdessos - in time to catch his train tomorrow morning. There are no buses today, so he will have had to hitch or walk, though I did spot a taxi firm in Vicdessos. Anyway, if we had set off together he'd have been far ahead in no time at all. 

The mist was down and the rocks were slippery, so I descended slowly past Heather and Honeysuckle, then past giant toads and large clumps of Yellow Saxifrage, to an ancient aqueduct at 1160 metres. I chose the eastern descent path, not GR10, and I don't think it's marked accurately on my old map. The upper picture shows the sort of sunken lane that GR10 uses quite a lot, though this one is slightly off that route, which heads to Mounicou. My 'variant' missed the delights (or otherwise, according to some reports) of that particular spot and headed down a rough road rather than down the steep path that would be accessed from the GR10 route. 

Once down at the 'main' road, pleasant woodland paths on the west bank of the river led amiably to the outskirts of Auzat, once a town to be avoided, and a place about which I was a little apprehensive due to its aluminium factory. 

It had taken just over three hours to get there, but after staring in amazement at the state of the art athletics stadium where I was expecting an aluminium factory, I avoided the village for now and took a minor road that led past Vicdessos's campsite, bringing me to the southern end of that town. It was noon on a Sunday. I needed an épicerie in order to stock up. The next shop I would pass would be in five days' time. I walked all around the town and eventually found the shop hidden round a corner just near my arrival point. It was a good one though. 

Graham was nowhere to be seen. He has gone home. He is no doubt enjoying the pleasures of Tarascon's campsite tonight.  

Several kilos of food later, a picnic bench under a magnificent lime tree was found, my tent was pitched next to it to dry out, and I set about consuming a heavy lunch. Objective only partly achieved, I then stumbled back up to Auzat, where Sue had mistakenly booked both Graham and me into l'escalette B&B.  We had realised the mistake and Yves and Sophie don't mind me being just one person, having received a clarifying call from Sue. 

Yves and Sophie don't mind having a quiet night tonight - they catered for a garden party of 115 yesterday.

Yves greeted me with more English than I was expecting. I must have looked thirsty as he provided a second beer 'on the house'. I must have been smelly as he then offered to 'process' my dirty clothes. Both I and my clothes are now really clean, and I'm pleased to report that I'm also re-hydrated.  

So rather than the planned rest day here tomorrow, I'm having a half day today and am setting off up a big hill in the morning. 

When I was last in this area, with Dave Scruby in 1994 (we spent a day in Vicdessos writing postcards), Auzat was a place to be avoided. Its huge aluminium factory was chucking out all sorts of pollutants. Today, those times are remembered by way of an 'aluminium walk' - a tour of the village highlighting its days as an aluminium town from 1908 to 2003. There was strife in the latter year, when the factory closed due to maintenance and safety issues, with four hundred families left without employment. 

The transition from aluminium factory town to a sports and leisure mecca will no doubt take some time. The stadium was only opened last year and Yves tells me there have only been two meetings there. I noticed the local restaurant doing a four course meal deal for just €14, which is cheaper than we've been seeing. I suspect that this B&B will be on the verge of being unacceptably cheap! I'll find out tomorrow. 

Tonight I ate on my own for the first time on this trip. A slightly odd experience, but I did enjoy a chat with Yves every time he brought another course to my table outdoors on a very pleasant and insect free evening.  An excellent meal: 

Goats cheese and courgette tart

Veal cutlets with buttery pasta and ratatouille

Chocolate cheese cake with raspberry jam

With the usual red wine and coffee. 

And they can do breakfast for any time I want it, not the usual 'from 8am'.  Well done Sue, you found me a top place. 

Auzat's fête is in full swing, with baton waving girls and a brass band. Not quite Morris Dancing, but the girls are more attractive (sorry Rick).

The lower picture was taken shortly after I arrived here, when I was being plied with beer.

Keep commenting (I like your comments Chantal, wherever you learnt your English they need to be congratulated!) and I'll be in touch in a couple of days - there's virtually no chance of a signal tomorrow night. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Occasional Pyrenean Flowers (14)

We see a lot of these tall bright blue flowers in rough and stony places. 

I think it's Mountain Lettuce (Lactuca perennis).

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Occasional Pyrenean Tractors (4)

Motivated by the enthusiastic response to my last 'tractor' posting, I looked around and saw this one.  If it's any help to Alan R, the side plate said '0301'.  The end plate said 'Amouroux Freres Toulouse', but I guess you already knew that.

I would imagine it's their 1HP model,  but I'll let you be the judge.

Sent from our GR10 trip - outside l'escalette B&B in Auzat, with a fluffy towel in one hand and a beer in the other

Saturday 27 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 43 - Stage 32 (part)/33 (part) - Passerelle d'Ars to Étangs de Bassiès

Distance: 19 km (Cum: 637 km)      

Ascent: 1250 metres (Cum: 36,670 metres)
                     
Time taken: 9.25 hrs including 2.0 hrs stops                                     

Weather: we seem to have a heatwave

It was a fairly hurried departure as the midges were also early risers.

There had been a lot of flapping overnight due to a gusty wind.  Our most sheltered site, the finest the weather has been, and it's windy. A hot wind from the south. It can't have been bad, as neither of us could be bothered to get out and tighten our guy lines.

The first two hours of the diay were spent strolling through the woods, down to Aulus-les-Bains, past three tiers of spectacular cascades (the middle one is pictured - it's much wider than portrayed in the image).

We met a few folk coming up the path, and some may have spent the night admiring the scene under a waning moon.  I was surprised not to find a large car park, but the path retained its integrity all the way down to Aulus. 

An old round building with mature trees inside was passed, and we saw many more examples of an 'eye' icon that is rotated by ninety degrees. What do they denote, we wonder? 

Down in the fleshpots of Aulus we were able to stock up with provisions and with caffeine, though when I went to pay for the coffees I realised we'd missed a trick - there was an appetising row of croissants behind the counter. But Graham had long gone, so I moved on and vowed not to miss any similar opportunities. 

Graham had moved on due to my rather rudely chatting to Sue about the disorganised state of my plans. Accommodation in Vicdessos was a problem, and it was needed tomorrow, when Graham leaves for home and my clean clothes and batteries expire.  Graham seems to manage fine on hot campsites in a heatwave with flies, and is actively opposed to anything more luxurious, but whilst I enjoy wild camping, and get my best nights' sleep in my tent, I can also cope with 'fluffy towels'!

So a plan for the next six days has been hatched, based on Stage 7 - fine option 2 on the itinerary you can link to below:

Sunday - B&B in Auzat
Monday - camp at Étang de Goueille or earlier
Tuesday - El Serrat (Niunit Hotel Ordino)
Wednesday - camp by Estany near Clot
Thursday - camp at Refuge de Rulhe - eat their meal if possible
Friday - Merens - chambres d'hotes du Nabre
Graham's newer map shows different paths to my old one, so if I get a chance I may purchase one in Vicdessos. 

Many thanks to Sue for organising the accommodation, and well done to Booking.com for resolving the problem when she mistakenly booked the El Serrat hotel, on a non-refundable basis, for a week after I would actually be there!  Booking.com's freephone service simply phoned the hotel and changed the booking, with no penalty, whilst Sue was holding.

I've heard from Pierre and Yolaine that they are doing something similar, perhaps with shorter days than I'm planning, so maybe I'll catch them up at some point. 

The only other GR10 ers that I've heard about are Roland and Marie, who were last 'seen' on the Canal du Midi. This seems to be a sensible antidote to Marie's growing intolerance of hills. Thanks to Chantal for that information. I suspect there are a few folk currently on GR10 who would like an antidote to hills, heat and biting insects. 

We haven't met anyone else going our way - not in a meaningful way, anyway. That's the effect of camping, I suspect. 

We did however meet one GR10 er in Aulus. Christophe was a jolly chap, on his way from Banyuls to Hendaye. There was much shaking of hands and well wishing, then we parted like ships in the night. I hope that some of my coming encounters aren't quite as brief as this one. 

I digress. The 1100 metre hill out of Aulus wasn't at all bad. Gently graded paths with few flies if you kept moving, transported us (with Graham miles ahead as usual) to the ancient village of Coumebière, of  which few remains are visible. The water from the fountain (spring) that served the village was delicious. 

The Cicerone guide doesn't mention this place of interest. Is Paul Lucia (the author) missing a trick, or is he facilitating a pleasant surprise? 

A delightful if rather slow path drew us over Port de Saleix and nearly to the 2006 metre summit of Mont Garias (I'm surprised that Graham didn't leap up it in a few strides), before undulating past our planned camping spot - Étang d'Alate (difficult but possible to find a place) and descending over rough ground to a signpost. It was 3.30pm, hot but not thundery, and the sign not in our direction said 'Refuge de Bassiès. 

"Beer o'clock" said I. Graham agreed. So we spent a happy half hour in the cool of the refuge, which admittedly wasn't far away, before descending hotly to our campsite beside the path that runs alongside the eponymous lakes. Luckily there's a large stone howff the other side of the path, in which we sought refuge from the heat and the flies, before it was possible to adjourn to the tents and fling up the midge nets. My tent soon became splattered with blood.  "Another nosebleed?" enquired Graham.  "No" I replied, "but probably my blood" as I swatted another mosquito. 

The site of our camp is somewhere in the middle of the lower picture - of the lakes, taken from the descent to the refuge. Probably not visible are the numerous day trippers, out for a satisfying day in the mountains. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Occasional Pyrenean Tractors (3)

Feast your eyes, Alan R!

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Friday 26 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 42 - Stage 32 (part) - St-Lizier-d'Ustou to Passerelle d'Ars (1485 metres)

Distance: 18 km (Cum: 618 km)     

Ascent: 1480 metres (Cum: 35,420 metres)
                     
Time taken: 7.25 hrs including 1.0 hrs stops                                     

Weather: sunny - very hot - for much of the day my thermometer was reading 30ºC+

We were away from the campsite at 8 am on another lovely day. There will be no need to air the sleeping bag today - it wasn't used last night. 

Luckily the day's early paths were well shaded. It seemed surprisingly dark as we headed up a sunken lane past some old buildings towards Col de Fitté.  Whoever built that steep old lane was certainly taking no prisoners! 

Despite our efforts to walk slowly (for Graham that's still much faster than me), we were soon dripping. 

There were no flowers of any note under the dark canopy, and thankfully not too many flies. Some very muddy sections justified the use of ankle gaiters.  My RAB gaiters from Alpenstock have certainly proved very useful on this trip, even on hot days like this one; you don't notice they are on, and they make sock washing a whole lot easier. 

The zip off trouser legs were returned to the clothes bag for today's long climbs, and luckily the horse flies behaved for most of the day. 

Occasional glances through the trees of fine mountain views like the one pictured, held our interest before the col provided an excuse for a welcome break. 

We needed that break. The next 20 minutes were spent thrutching up a brutal 150 metre slope. We were lucky to have a dry day for it, or the mud would have been 'Interesting'.

A ski resort with lots of chalet accommodation was passed, and we enjoyed clear sky views back to the Mt Valier summits. But with no clouds and a heat haze, we can't expect too much from our photos. 

We finally reached the day's high spot, Col d'Escots (1618 metres - not attractive due to ski paraphernalia) at 11 o'clock. After noting a rare error in Paul Lucia's Cicerone guide, we headed ESE for an hour or so to find a suitable lunch spot. I thought I'd found a bit of shade. I hadn't. So I continued to a shadier spot, leaving Graham to sunbathe. 

We bumped into the same French couple we saw a couple of days ago.  I wonder how far they are going?  Communication with them is difficult. 

On the final section past Étang de Guzet and along a rocky, undulating belvedere path to Passerelle d'Ars, we met lots of day walkers. There's a car park for Cascade d'Ars, which we will pass in the morning. It's an ideal place to start a day walk. 

Two Dutch people accosted us. .

"You were on the campsite"

"Yes"

"You must have left early"

"Yes"

"Where did you park?"

"We walked"

Incredulous gasp

"Wow!" (or similar)

Anyway, we passed some good water sources, so there are plenty of places to camp hereabouts. But Passerelle d'Ars yielded a good spot so we pitched across the bridge from where the bottom photo was taken. It was very hot. Two fishermen came and entertained us briefly, but they were unable to catch anything longer than 20 centimetres, so they got thrown back and the lads moved down stream to where they thought the trout would be bigger. 

Eventually we lost the sun.  Great! Dinner outside in fresh, cool air. 

Then the midges came out to play. So now I'm in a pleasantly cool tent with the midge net in place, through which there's a fine mountain view. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Thursday 25 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 41 - Stage 30 (part) and 31 - near Port d'Aula to St-Lizier-d'Ustou

Distance: 20 km (Cum: 600 km)      

Ascent: 900 metres (Cum: 33,940 metres)
                     
Time taken: 7.75 hrs including 1.5 hrs stops                                     

Weather: hot and sunny

A fairly routine day on GR10. Away by 7.30am after an 'open tent' night with splendid mountain views under a nearly full moon. 

100 metres up to a fine viewpoint. 

Graham is pictured continuing towards the east from here. 

1300 metres down to a hamlet with no facilities other than water and toilets (and of course a Town Hall - Mairie).

Lunch - at 10.45!

800 metres up, mainly through woodland, trying to avoid the horse flies. 

30 minutes on a boiling hot but fly free col with more fine views. Graham is seated here (lower picture).

800 metres down to a campsite in a small village. 

Wifi here, but battery uncertainties, one reason for the brevity - lack of time being another. 

Lovely meal at the local restaurant, but it was virtually empty. The campers prefer to cook on site. Apart from a friendly Dutch couple who are planning a high camp (their first) tomorrow. 

Good to hear from Humphrey, who I was thinking of today, knowing that he is due in the Pyrenees shortly. 

Considering we finished walking at 3.30 pm the rest of the day seems to have gone remarkably quickly! 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Wednesday 24 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 40 - Stage 30 (part) - Seix to a hollow at 1935 metres on the approach to Port d'Aula

Distance: 17 km (Cum: 580 km)      

Ascent: 1400 metres (Cum: 33,040 metres)
                     
Time taken: 6.25 hrs including 1.25 hrs stops                                     

Weather: sunny after early cloud, occasional mist at 1900 metres later

We strolled away from Seix at 8.45 am, starting a little later than usual because of my insistence in taking full advantage of the hotel's lavish breakfast. 

It was cloudy and humid, but the good forecast has proved reliable. Whilst mist is coming and going at our high camp, there has been no rain today. 

I wore my zip off legs for the first time for ages, by way of horse fly protection. The flies didn't really bother us too much whilst we kept going. But they were ready to pounce when we stopped. 

We enjoyed the narrow path that led back to the GR10 at Coume Chaude, then a lane took us up to Estours, most of the time next to a steaming torrent that was cascading down beside the lane and producing a pleasant draught. 

There were signs of industry here, with some cranes high above us, and construction work by an old watermill where the GR10D path joined us from Port de la Core. 

The path then rose gently through woodland, passing a shrine remembering Eric Garcia (1971 - 1994) before emerging at a meadow below the private Cabane de l'Artigue.  

It was time for lunch but the flies encouraged us to wander for a few minutes up the valley to find a better spot by the river. The upper picture was taken from that lunch spot, showing the next stage of our climb, through more trees, to Cabane d'Aula at 1550 metres.

There was lots of Pyrenean Eryngo here, which we hadn't seen for a while, as well as the usual orchids and other stuff. 

There were some picnickers near Cabane de l'Artigue, and an elderly French couple going our way with largish rucksacks and a big camera. Apart from them we've been on our own since Seix. 

I'd planned to stop near Cabane d'Aula (according to the itinerary), and we found good water there - by way of a pipe coming out of the mountain.  But it was only 2 pm, and the flies looked as if they may be a nuisance, although there were plenty of good camping spots. 

The Cicerone guide referred to a 'hollow' shortly before Port d'Aula, so we took a calculated risk, filled all our water bottles, and headed up the zigzag path for 45 minutes.  Flatter ground before the 'hollow' was duly reached and presented the right sort of dilemma. Where to pitch our tents when we were spoilt for choice?  My tent is pictured. Judge for yourself whether you like the view, which admittedly does occasionally disappear into the mist. It's the Mt Valier range that we can see domineering over us. 

Graham's tent went up a bit more slowly today - his main pole broke. Luckily the usual mid afternoon rain failed to materialise and a makeshift repair was effected. 

Arriving at 3 pm, and with no threat from the weather, this is our best wild camp, at around 1935 metres,  of the trip. We are well out of the horse fly zone here, which is an added bonus. 

Surrounded by alpine flowers, we'd better try to identify some. 

Later I went up to the col in an abortive search for a phone signal, passing a very deep hollow on the way. We certainly found as good a place as anywhere to camp. 

Conrad, you are right, this area is one of many gems of the Pyrenees. We just wish there was a relatively easy higher route that avoids the woods and their attendant horse flies. I notice that when we did the HRP, we were in Salardu at this point on the crossing, stocking up with food for a week! 

The choughs are chirping and the Stonechats are chatting as the sun disappears behind Mt Valier and the day draws to a close. 

More tea vicar?

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Tuesday 23 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 39 - Seix

Gentle strolling of about 4km was sufficient for this rest day.                             

Weather: sunny all morning, then stormy, fine later

This rest day was chosen wisely. It's chucking it down at a time when we are sometimes walking. I'm nice and cosy in my hotel suite, and I assume Graham is happy wallowing in the campsite's pool. 

We did enjoy a lavish lunch, courtesy of Casino food shops, at the well appointed campsite - it has picnic benches - before the first spots of rain sent me scurrying back to my rooms, and the few remaining bits of washing I need to do before I'm as fresh as when I set off from Timperley. 

Seix is a lovely little town with old buildings. The top picture shows my hotel on the left, the lower one was taken from just round the corner. 

Now then, where's that Kindle?  Ah, broken, so I'll have to read some blogs and make silly comments. Watch out!

Later:

Graham reports a very relaxing time in his tent during the storm.  I think he was asleep. 

Tonight's meal at Auberge du Mont Valier was excellent. This hotel is only about 50 metres out of town, but it was really quiet when the centre was busy. And the meal was very good, especially the selection of cheeses (strong), which inevitably resulted in fresh supplies of wine being required. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Occasional Pyrenean Flowers (13)

The Pyrenean Columbine (Aquilegia pyrenaica) was particularly conspicuous on yesterday's descent to Pas de la Core. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Monday 22 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 38 - Stage 29 (variant) - Col de la Crouzette to Seix, via le Cos (a hill)

Distance: 25 km (Cum: 563 km)      

Ascent: 540 metres (Cum: 31,640 metres)
                     
Time taken: 7.0 hrs including 1.0 hrs stops                                     

Weather: sunny until late afternoon rain

I felt sticky overnight. The rain came before I got around to washing. 

I'm clean now. 

Graham and I walked separately today, but met conveniently at the bar of the Auberge du Haut Salat, in Seix, at around 3.30 pm. I was relieved to hear that Graham had encountered no serious difficulties on his adventurous route. He was a bit confused as to where he stayed last night - my old map clarified it as being Cabane du Taus and not Cabane des Espugues, where he thought he had been! 

A quick start for me this morning. I later realised why. I'd forgotten to shave! 

The lovely yellow route passed loads of great camping spots if you can put up with Stonechats and marmots,  but I'd chosen the site with the best views. Soon path GR10D was picked up and that made a leisurely descent to Pas de la Core. 

It's a road pass, and there were lots of folk setting off for day walks in various directions. Two cyclists simultaneously reached the pass from different directions. I expected some form of greeting, but they just got off to admire the views. 

With the first phone signal for a while, I spent a few minutes checking messages. Sue had booked a suite at Auberge Du Haut Salat, in Seix, so "Graham also has a bed if he wants one".

I have the rooms to myself as G prefers to camp. It's quite luxurious. Thanks Sue. 

After a while on the pass admiring the views, I set off down GR10 proper, expecting to be able to take my time and find a suitable lunch spot. It wasn't to be. The horse flies got steadily more aggressive. I met three mountain bikers who had disguised themselves as bushes in a futile effort to deter the blighters. 

There was nothing for it but to continue on, past the nice looking gite at Esbints, and down the road, nearly into Seix. It was too early to expect my 4pm suite to be ready, so a diversionary tactic was required. 

Le Core is a 1013 metre summit just south of Seix. I decided to fill the time by going up it. But for that, today's ascent statistic would have been 70 metres. A well maintained path wound seemingly repeatedly around the small hill, eventually spewing me out at a picnic table. With not a fly in sight, and the clock having sped past 1pm, this was an ideal spot to chat to Sue and enjoy the remnants of my food bag. I found an orange that I must have been lugging around for quite some time! 

It's nearly a week since Sue left for home. "I'll be at home today" had been her message. She was however just off to one of her several jobs after having received a "where are you" call.

We can do Luchon to Banyuls on a B&B basis, I'm sure. I'm looking forward to it. 

Today's picture of Seix was taken from that lunch spot.

A little further on an orientation table identified an array of Pyrenean summits, dominated by Mt Valier (2838 metres). Fine views all around. 

A quick descent through the horse fly zone led to the pleasant town of Seix (with no sex), the liveliest place since Luchon, happily outside the zone of flooding.  Or this hotel would be under mud.

I'd just about finished my beer when Graham turned up at around 3.30 pm. He was none the worse for his adventures despite storms and steep snow. Well done Graham. I was impressed. "More beer please."

Then off he went to the campsite, whilst I got down to washing some rather smelly clothing, before we reconvened for yet more beer and a nice meal in the hotel. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Sunday 21 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 37 - Stage 28 (variant) - Cabane du Trapech du Milieu to Wild camp near Col de la Crouzette

Distance: 12 km (Cum: 538 km)      

Ascent: 1320 metres (Cum: 31,100 metres)
                     
Time taken: 6.5 hrs including 1.5 hrs stops                                     

Weather: sunny, with cloud building by late morning, some rain, then sunny periods, thunderstorm later

Today Graham declared UDI and headed back up to Cabane du Clot du Lac to embark on a high level walk towards Mt Valier (2838 metres), and down to perhaps meet me, depending on which route I chose to take. 

"Eleven miles should be easy enough" said Graham. I decided not to argue. He is proud of his Alpine experience and confident of his ability. I'd considered his route, albeit not well defined on my old map, and rejected it for a number of reasons.  I may have been wrong, but I felt the route would be well beyond my own limited ability, especially without an axe and crampons for the north facing snow slopes. 

I next expect to see Graham in Seix tomorrow or on Tuesday, but I have camped where he has the earliest opportunity to see me if indeed his route was "easy enough".

Splitting up like this was always the plan - we can both look after ourselves, and Graham can go high when he wants to. He may appear later - he's much faster than me, and more confident on steep ground. 

So I set off alone at 7.50, after a fine night's sleep. Today the tents were dry thanks to an early morning breeze.

The good path wound amiably down to Cabane de l'Artigue, which would be fine for two people to spend the night. 

The cabanes in this Ariège region are numerous. They are very much like Scottish bothies, and are sometimes used totally or partly by shepherds. A useful resource in bad weather. Or suitable for use by those without a tent (but you would need everything else).

An easy descent through trees led to Pla de la Lau, where it was hot and sweaty. I'd met five very sweaty people ascending slowly up the path. Should I have gone with Graham? I quickly dismissed that rash inclination. 

The toilets, and a very brief phone signal, the only one all day, helped to justify my decision, though I do have to break some bad news to Graham. One of his fish has died. 

The car park was full. This is a very popular spot, and the gite used by Pierre and Yolaine last night - Gîte Auberge La Maison du Valier - looks excellent, if rather full of children. 

Incidentally, I didn't see P&Y today. They must have left early and finally escaped from us!

It was a 'blue sky' day, so shade from the sun on the ascent through woodland was most welcome. Especially as this was a particularly steep ascent. The cool breeze created by the rushing river nearby was much appreciated. Then the narrow Muscadet valley was forsaken in favour of many short, steep zigzags up to a small cabane at 1620 metres. 

I nearly caught up with a group ahead, but they got away whilst I rested. It was not a day for rushing. 

More steep zigzags, gradually lengthening and easing in thrutchiness, led past lots of orchids, and Spring Squill still in flower, to Cap des Lauses, at 1892 metres, basically a path junction. 

Here I needed to decide whether to take the easy GR10 path to Étang d'Ayes, or explore some lesser paths. It was only 11.45, and the former route would take little more than an hour. So I headed along a path well marked with yellow paint, in the direction of Refuge des Estagnous, which the sign told me would take three and a half hours. Luckily, I wasn't going there, but Graham might be. ..

Fifteen minutes along the path I came to Cabane du Taus, where I could take advantage of the good water supply. 

Curiously, I met lots of people on this section. A bit of a puzzle. One of them seemed completely bemused about where he was. He seemed reluctant to accept my analysis! 

Just beyond that cabane I stopped for lunch in the shade of a large rock. It was hot. A couscous salad was enjoyed in an area that looks magical for wild camping. But it was a bit early for that, so I continued, leaving the Estagnous path in favour of one leading to Cabane des Espugues. That cabane was a little off my route, but I went to look at it anyway. Partly occupied by a shepherd, it seemed to have space available for passers-by as well, but I didn't go in.

Another well marked (in yellow) path led NNE, gently up to Col de Crouzette - 2210 metres.  That was a nice surprise, as the rucksack was feeling heavy and I'd expected the col to be at 2361 metres, but that was the height of a minor summit that now overlooks my campsite. 

The cloud had been building, as it does, and whilst I was looking into clear blue sky over France, drops of rain were splattering me from the central Pyrenees. I sat on the col in my anorak, until the rain eventually stopped and I could make my way down towards the next cabane - Cabane d'Eychelle.

I could see a huge herd of sheep descending in that direction, so after sliding down a few steep (but luckily soft) snow slopes, I reached a grassy plateau at 2050 metres, only fifteen minutes from the col. There was a good water supply from a nearby stream. The thunder was still banging and roaring like a flapping tent, so I set up camp and put on a brew. 

It was 2.30 pm.

I was pitched next to a snowfield, with a view back to the col, and in the other direction, down to the flatlands of France. (Both pictured)

It rained for a while. Then the sun came out. A convenient rock meant that I was excused back ache whilst writing my diary. Whistling marmots kept me company. The last of the Sentein main meal provisions gave me a good supper in this wonderful location.

A shepherdess rushed past. Closely followed by the biggest thunderstorm of the trip. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Saturday 20 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 36 - Stage 27 (variant)/28 (part) - Sentein to Cabane du Trapech du Milieu

Distance: 16 km (Cum: 526 km)      

Ascent: 1130 metres (Cum: 29,780 metres)
                     
Time taken: 7.5 hrs including 2.25 hrs stops                                     

Weather: sunny, until the thunderstorm after we camped

We were away before 8am on a continuation of our 'Tour du Biros'. (Biros is the name of the valley. )

It's fair to say that the campsite was pretty basic and the village of Sentein had very little by way of amenities. However, as a shop and a campsite were all we needed, we just about managed without a bar or restaurant. Curiously, my passport was needed for the first time since leaving Biarritz airport, in order to get onto the campsite, which cost rather less than €3 each, including taxes! 

The heatwave affecting northwest England has fortunately not reached here, so our night under 'canvas' was cosy without being too hot. 

The path dropped gently, partly along the quiet road, to Orle - a hamlet beyond the pretty village of Bonac, with its old church and various amenities including a gite d'etape. 

A steep zigzag path through lovely beech woods took us from 700 to 1200 metres, where at the site of a 'funicular' we joined an old tramway from the end of which the remains of the old lifting gear would have transported whatever was being mined here to the valley. 

The upper picture was taken just after reaching the tramway. 

There were noticeably few flowers in the woods - seemingly just a few Broomrapes, Willowherbs, Cranesbills, etc, including a lone rose in the centre of the path. The light isn't great for flowering plants now that the trees are in full foliage. 

The old tramway rose about 50 metres over almost 6km. An impressive feat of engineering. We passed through several tunnels, one of them a good 40 metres in length. They were easy enough once you got into them, but debris nearly blocking the entrances made for entertainment with the big packs.

Leaf litter occupied much of the path, but certain sections were overgrown with nettles and ferns and stuff. 

Whereas yesterday's descent on the Tour du Biros path had been quite busy with people, we didn't see a soul on this side of the valley. The path could do with being better maintained and advertised. It's a good route. 

At around 11.50am we reached the familiar red and white daubs of the GR10 signs. We turned left, up towards Cabane de Besset. Two figures appeared on the path behind us. Guess who?

Up at the cabane, Matthew and Jonathan were enjoying their lunch. I managed to get a brew on for Pierre and Yolaine before they arrived. They quickly slurped it and continued up to Clot de Lac (1821 metres), to enjoy their lunch in the knowledge that their climbing for the day (1600 metres) was over and they could enjoy a leisurely descent to the gite d'etape at Pla de la Lau.

We followed them after an hour at Besset, enjoying our own tuna salad lunches. We were due to stop at Besset, according to my itinerary, but it was both too early, and too steep for camping. 

Clot de Lac was a lovely spot, sadly with no water. We lingered with P&Y for a while, enjoying the display of huge ceps and tasty looking chanterelle mushrooms that they had collected earlier. Whilst they then snoozed and photographed sheep, Graham and I continued down through flocks of uncomfortably hot sheep, to the next cabane, which does have a water supply, the elaborately named Cabane du Trapech du Milieu, at 1540 metres.

The cabane has recently been refurbished, but we prefer to camp on the slopes nearby. 

After seemingly a very long time, P&Y eventually appeared, refreshed from their sleep. We may not see them again for a while, so - our campsite is pictured, with our French friends sitting in the foreground on our water supply. I hope Chantal and Joel are suitably amused.

Anyway, we settled in, brewed up, watched the storm, enjoyed the symphony of sheep bells as the massive herd wandered past to spend their night in lower climes, and cooked our suppers, etc, etc. 

Dinner is 'Poule et Vermicelles' soup (for 4), with added Coquillettes (pasta) and a large tin of Thon à la Catalane to add a bit of 'meat'. I don't know what Graham's having. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary