Pyrenees HRP - 2004 - Day 31

 

Sue and Martin's Big Adventure

 

Day 31 - Wednesday 25 August 2004 - Stage 24

Postcard Summary 

Laundry Camp to Refuge de Venasque

Easy 1800 metre ascent in nice surroundings and weather – 7 hours, 16 km, 1800m ascent

Today dawned clear after being overcast all yesterday.  We discovered that if we had gone on our planned route we would have been in thick mist all day.  So off we went up the huge ascent from Luchon, up to Refuge de Venasque, culminating in a huge series of zigzags.  After we reached the refuge the cloud from France engulfed us and we adjourned to the ‘mess tent’.  This small refuge sleeps 14 people, on two bunks taking 7 each.  We three are next to a family of four.  One of them snores.  The toilet is a concrete hole in the ground in a metal shack.  The soup is warm and needs salt.  The main course is adequate but not as good as our ‘home cooking’.  It’s cold, so we are all in bed by 9 pm.

 

 

Diary Entry (by Martin)

Back on the road today after a long 1½ day "half term holiday" in Luchon. One call for concern is a damaged tent pole - we'll examine it next time the tent goes up.

 

After yesterday's cloud, today dawned sunny and clear. We got a very slow start due to major repacking after restocking, and lethargy on my part. I have a slight bowel problem. Eventually, at 8.30, we say au revoir to our attentive campsite "guardian" and head up the road towards de l'Hospice de France. 640 metres, 12°C, 947 mb.

 

After a good half hour we opt to leave the road in favour of path 20, just after crossing the La Pique river, to Barguères, Plan de Campsaure, and Hospice de France. It's a good path, taking us through dark woods despite the bright day. Lots of dew, so Sue and I change to boots. The path is deserted. We reach 1250 metres by 10.30, and have a lovely brew spot above Barguères Cabin from 10.50 to 11.20,  at 1370 metres. (The view from here is shown above.)

 

Continuing along a dew laden path surrounded by gorse and grasshoppers, we (I) make a 4th navigational error by turning south west sooner than I should have done. This took us steeply down to 1100 metres, much further than expected. We should have continued up the track around a zigzag, and then taken a more substantial road to the right.

 

We did eventually reach an old road, thoroughly blocked as a right of way for traffic. We plodded on up, eventually joining our correct route and gaining the big car park at Hospice de France (1370 metres) at 12.35.

 

 

We ascended a few metres to a magnificent lunch spot above the ruinous hospice, with a good view of the zigzag path above us. 12.45 to 1.30, and we got rid of our first baguette (Sue), and tins of pâté and fish (Martin). Julie washed her feet in the bubbling stream next to us (very cold).

 

 

 

 

The path up to the Refuge de Venasque was busy but not crowded - 850 metres of well graded zigzags, with excellent views down on the route, once we got higher.

 

 

 

The signs said it should take 2 hours 15 minutes, but despite resting for 10 minutes half way, we managed the ascent in 2 hours, with Julie a few minutes behind. 3.30 pm.

 

 

The refuge sleeps 14 people. We are to share the bottom bunk (there are just two bunks) with a French family of four. The visitors' book indicates we are the first English people to stay here this year. It's quite warm and sunny at first, so we wander around the scenic environs (the Refuge is not an architectural masterpiece), with most of Sue's clothes and sleeping bag put out to dry (they are habitually in this state).

 

 

Between 5 and 6 pm cloud gradually engulfs the area and we move from the outside benches to some in a tent where we will eat at 7 pm.

 

 

An easy day, but it sets us up for our attempt on the Mulieres ridge tomorrow, weather permitting. Some Scottish day walkers (they had a good route) gave encouraging news about the weather predictions.....

 

Cloud comes in from France. Cold. We adjourn to the food tent with a nice couple from Paris. Food arrives at 7 pm but is only warm, and lacks salt. Disappointing. We manage to drag out the meal and preparations for bed until around 9 pm. There is a loud snorer and the woman next to Julie has smoker's breath. Julie retaliates with a coughing fit...

 

 

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