Sue and Martin's Big Adventure
Day 32 - Thursday 26 August 2004 - Stage 25
Postcard Summary
Snore
Zone to Upper Mulieres Lake
Fantastic day with 3000 metre peak and
epic finish above Hosp de Viella – 10.25 hours, 11 km, 1200m ascent
We enter Spain , leaving French cloud
behind. Climb up a beautiful valley
under the Maladeta massif and up to the highest col of the trip at 2928
metres. From there, only 15 minutes to a
summit at 3010 metres with magnificent views.
The descent was tricky – a vertical scramble then steep snow – made camp
at 6.30!
Diary Entry (by Sue)
We slept ok at
the 2200 metre refuge, getting up just after 7 am. Outside, there was cloud,
but it was thin, giving occasional partial views of the mountain tops above. Breakfast
at 7.30 - bread, jam, and a sort of cold bread and butter pudding.
Once on our way
at 8.20 (Sue and Julie are pictured above), the
cloud cleared, and it was only a short climb to the col - Port de Venasque (2444 metres), past the lakes.
Looking back from Port de Venasque |
This is on the
border, and the view into Spain
is completely clear. Ahead, the Maladeta massif with its glaciers.
Ascending, with a view to the Maladeta Massif |
View to Rio Asera |
Tuca d'Aiguallut ahead |
We then take a
grassy pass down to a plateau. Then a zigzag path down to a road, where we see
a full coach every half hour or so.
Trou de Toro |
There is a lovely
(Aiguallut) cascade, with a backdrop of the Maladeta massive, before the green
plateau, where, fortunately, all the tourists stop. Today we all feel
privileged to be in such a wonderful landscape. Our path weaves up the rocky hillside,
with streams and small tarns, and behind, we had a view of the pass crossed
first thing.
Despite the
clear blue sky, the wind is cold and we escape it behind a rock for a brew and
lunch, next to a stream. I use the opportunity to wash underwear and hang it
off the rucksack to dry.
The afternoon
proved eventful. The path reached a tarn, where a Spanish couple were helpful
in providing a weather forecast, and guidance for our next section. Despite intending
to turn round where we met them, he overtook us, not being able to resist the
temptation of a peak! The Col de Mulleres was the next goal - it was the
highest pass we could see, and will probably be the highest of the trip at 2928
metres.
The terrain was
solid rock, with some sections of boulders.
The path was
cairned, and after seeing no one for some time, there suddenly seemed to be a
few folk around. We stretched calves on the sloping rock, for what seemed like
ages. It was hard going on the final section, contouring on large boulders, and
we finally reached the col at 3.30 pm.
After some
rejuvenating mountain mix, the rucksacks were left at the col, and further cairns guided us for 15
minutes to the summit of the Tuca de Mulleres, wear a cross marks the top at
3010 metres. The view was stunning - cloud in France, spilling over the border
ridge, and clear in Spain to the Maladeta massif and the lakes below, where we
planned to camp.
Summit views, and a view from the summit of Tuca de Mulleres |
The view east
showed the size of the mountains decreasing! Getting back to the col gave us no
difficulty, but then the route became tricky. Whilst Martin tried one way,
Julie and I tried the direct descent, following the waymarks and scrambling
down vertical stretches of rock, then down a steep, but small snowfield.
Eventually, an
hour later, we were in a position to continue the descent, with Martin's
trousers in a state, and our nerves jangled. A rough, steep descent for a
further hour before we pitched at the highest Mulleres lake (2450 metres), at
the first opportunity (6.30 pm).
The sun had
already gone, but we sat outside on this still evening, to cook soup, and pasta
with ham and chorizo, and as we drank hot chocolate, the sun set from the
mountains we looked across to. A fabulous day, with a sting in the tale. Saw
good animals too, a stoat, deer high on the rocky peaks, and marmots. Bed 9.30
pm.
Stats
and route (Viewranger):
15
km, 1400 metres ascent, 10.25 hours
1 comment:
Just when you think the Pyrenees are spectacular the whole thing goes up a gear on a day like this. I did a more modest peak ascent on my trip, but with similar dodgy sections and at one point I remembered my promise to my daughter before I departed to be careful, and there I was slithering down a rocky chimney onto a patch of snow with drops below and saying to myself "what do you think you are doing'" Including a peak gives one a completely different kind of day. Brilliant.
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