
Tuesday 23 November
Nagarkot to Changunarayan and Kathmandu
[Diarist: Martin]
The hoped for 6 am
wake-up knock did not occur - it was misty. Instead we had some Indian(?)
children playing outside our room. It had been a comfortable night, the coolness
of the room being enhanced by the welcome hot water bottles.
We all assembled
for breakfast at 7 am. Mahesh was allowed to join us this time! Then we resumed
our walk at 8 am in weak, hazy sunshine.
Down through a
highly populated area with lots of goats, chickens, a few cattle,
schoolchildren in pristine blue uniforms, sweetcorn drying high up on stands.
Past bamboo fences
and small fires, women washing themselves and their clothes, friendly greetings
from all.
We passed, after a couple of hours, a small temple from which we descended 100 metres to around 1550 metres. There were small yellowish birds - smaller than yellowhammers but otherwise similar.
Then we rose again
up the final part of the ridge which leads eventually to our terminus for the
walk, the ancient pilgrimage site of Changunarayan. On the way we pass lots of
army boys on a manoeuvre - strange to have loaded guns pointed at us. But
friendly 'namaste' greetings. Battle
plans are set out on small plastic sheets, using toy vehicles and leaves and
grass and model men. Mahesh has relatives and friends in both the army and the
Gurkhas - the latter are a revered breed and are relatively very wealthy.
Misty views over green
hills beyond steep multi-coloured terraces. A solid green hillside is opposite
us to the south, and a nice little town lies below to the north, beside a river.
The place is Sakhu and has an Alpine look to it, though the buildings are bound
to be crumbling Nepalese.
View to the Kathmandu Valley
We rest for a while
above the army area; Mahesh has his lunch. Then the final half hour of our
stroll down the ridge, past firs and aloes, and a magnificent swing constructed
from four bamboo poles, lots more children and goats some with triplet kids.
Lush vegetables,
especially cabbages, on the last section of today's walk. Mahesh had not done
this route before, but he was able to ask the way, and he was impressed by the
temple at the end of the walk.
Hindu temple at Changunarayan
Also noted - frisky
goat kids, children asking for pens and money, blue skies, smells of spices,
circling kites, Maoist paranoia, Sanjeev's efficient organisation.
And so, by 11:30 we
are at our destination, Changunarayan - an ancient site with a small bus park (we
have had a traffic free morning on nice paths) and lots of adoring visitors.
Only a handful of westerners here, so we get hassled to buy things. That is
actually stopping me from buying anything! The slight disappointment of
the shortness of the walk was soon forgotten when it started to spot with rain
for the second time this trip, the first being yesterday afternoon. So we
headed back to the old Toyota
minibus - an ancient, leaky, turquoise beast - for the 30 to 40 minute drive
back to the luxuries of the Radisson Hotel.
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22 Nov
|
23 Nov
|
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Start (m)
|
1575
|
2000
|
|
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Ascent (m)
|
900
|
180
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Descent (m)
|
-475
|
-595
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Finish (m)
|
2000
|
1585
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Time (hrs)
|
6.30
|
3.30
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|
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Stops (hrs)
|
1.00
|
0.30
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Walking Time (hrs)
|
5.30
|
3.00
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|
|
Before Mahesh left
us we gave him a 1500 rupee tip (£25) and the old UNO cards - he had enjoyed last
night's game and seemed pleased with this.
Then a lazy
afternoon - first we all meet to consume our packed lunches, than we laze in
baths/sauna in front of TV whilst the rain falls outside. We pack our bags in
preparation for tomorrow's departure.
Then downstairs to
meet Andrew, who is in the midst of a Japanese briefing session! before a short
15 minute stroll, avoiding mud and puddles, to the Chimney Restaurant at the famous
Yak and Yeti Hotel. This is an old converted palace and is a magnificent
building. The food was excellent, served by white-gloved waiters, enjoyed in
the company of a Canadian couple from Montreal.
It was her 30th birthday and the superb cake was shared with us. They had been
up beyond Everest Base Camp, a tea house trek in good weather - with just one porter
- to carry her pack. Very sensible, we thought.
Back in time for
bed by 10 pm, after a stroll through light rain, to the disappointment of the
taxi drivers.
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