Loch Brandy, from the ascent of Green Hill

...On a beautiful Highland morning...

...After a long lie in and a full (just one sausage) Scottish.

Just to confirm there are others walking today, it's Will Hinkamp, all the way from Los Angeles, who has just managed to enter the frame.

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Tuesday 25 May 2010 - TGO Challenge Day 12 - Plan – Glen Clova Hotel to Tarfside

Martin’s planned route and statistics for today are shown below:

1 Glen Clova Hotel
2 Green Hill
3 The Goet (Ben Tirran) (Corbett)
4 Muckle Cairn
5 Glenlee
6 Tarfside – 200 metres (NO 491 797)

Statistics
23 km
953 metres ascent
9.4 hours
(1 Corbett)

TGO Challenge 2010 - Day 11 - The Old Boathouse at Loch Beanie to Glen Clova Hotel - The Last Long Day

Distance walked: 31.5 km
Metres ascent: 1500
Time taken: 11.6 hours including 2.5 hours stops
No of Challengers seen: 4, plus lots at Clova

An early start paid dividends today. The birds were singing as I strolled beside Loch Beanie in the early light, leaving 30 kg man snoozing contentedly.

Lumpy tussocks gave way to easy paths and a short section of road before the gentle climb up Badandum Hill. The views from the summit were extensive, but the experience of being at the edge of a storm is my overriding memory of this summit. Whilst others were receiving a dousing in the middle of the storm, my waterproofs were on and off like yo-yos and at one point I had one wet and one dry side. I was truly at the edge of the bad weather.

The route down to the ruin at Kilbo was rough and slow. Time there for brunch. I could swear I saw the ghost of the Pie Man appear through The Glack of Balquhadar and pick his way down towards me. The gait was his, the deathly black tights as well, but does he have a blood red jacket? He was 200 metres away. I regretted not having brought my binoculars.

My brunch hollow by the stream was actually off the main Kilbo path, which I rejoined at the top of a plantation after taking a shortcut up wheel tracks that I'd misconstrued as the path.

Three likely lads appeared, coming down the hill into Glen Prosen. The third, fourth and fifth Challengers I'd seen. Bill, Alex and John, first timers from Dollar and Comrie, all in their sixties. Well done lads!

Another figure lumbered up from behind me. Steve Gough, who had only seen three other Challengers before today. He was heading towards Clova, but not by my Munro infested route. We chatted for a while before I left him to nip packless up my first Munro of the trip, Mayar. I've been up it a few times before, but after the stormy weather the day had turned out nice, so I just couldn't bring myself to walk past this nearby summit. It turned out that it was Steve who had been impersonating the ghost of the Pie Man.

"This is my 143rd Munro", enthused the young lady on the summit, "I hope to do them all within another five years." I looked at her more closely. 'Is Kylie really a Munro bagger, or are my eyes deceiving me?' I thought. Looking nervously behind me, I saw the deathly shadow of the ghost of the Pie Man...

"Keep off, she's mine" whispered the wind...

My planned route would have left me dumping the rucksack to visit Driesh, my second Munro of the day, then heading down through The Shank of Drumfollow to Glen Doll, followed by a long road walk down Glen Clova. This foolish plan was discarded. The rucksack, pretty light now, with just a few remnants of provisions, could come with me to the 947 metre summit of Driesh, high point of the whole trip, then over the Hill of Strone and down the broad ridge to Clova.

It was an excellent choice, avoiding the foot pounding road walk, despite some rather lumpy tussocks on the final descent to Clova, where the bunkhouse and hotel are fairly brimming with Challengers.

I'm sharing a room with Susan and Brian from Liverpool, and have enjoyed helping in drinking Big Lusty May's naughty bits dry with John and Norma, from Great Eccleston, who I last saw at Lochailort.

Life is good, as on the entire trip. It's sociable now, as well.

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A View from Hill of Strone (850 metres) towards Driesh

Mayar and Driesh have now been climbed, and I decided to take Graham B's advice and take a short cut over this hill (nearly said 'little' but they all seem big just now). It cuts out the road walk and maintains the 'off-piste' theme of this trip.

Have already met someone who is staying at Clova. Tonight's posting could be a short one.

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Rain Wind and Sun

All at once on Badandun Hill (740 metres).

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Monday 24 May 2010 - TGO Challenge Day 11 - Plan – Loch Beanie to Glen Clova Hotel

Martin’s planned route and statistics for today are shown below:

1 Loch Beanie
2 Col beyond Loch Beanie
3 Possible camping spot by wood
4 Road junction - Dalvanie
5 Fergus
6 End of path
7 Minor col
8 Badandun Hill (Graham)
7 Minor col
9 Path
10 Kilbo
11 Path to Mayar
12 Mayar (Munro)
11 Path to Mayar
13 Shank of Drumfollow
14 Dreish (Munro)
13 Shank of Drumfollow
15 Glendoll Lodge
16 Campsite (closed)
17 Glen Clova Hotel – 240 metres (NO 326 731)

Statistics
36 km
1514 metres ascent
15.0 hours
(2 Munros, 1 Graham)

Last Wild Camp of the Trip

By Loch Beanie (just out of shot to the left).

Photo courtesy of Brian.

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TGO Challenge 2010 - Day 10 - Wild Camp by Allt na Leacainn Moine to the Old Boathouse at Loch Beanie - Rain and Shine

Distance walked: 27 km
Metres ascent: 1209
Time taken: 12.2 hours including 2.8 hours stops
No of Challengers seen: 0 (this is getting boring!)
No of NZ fishermen camping next to me: 1 (Brian)

It's a beautiful evening here at Loch Beanie. I'd worried about this camp site as Colin (vetter) seemed a little unsure, but there's plenty of flat space where he surmised, by the Old Boathouse, to make this last wild camp a memorable one. I'm watching Brian try to catch his supper whilst two love birds look on with amusement without pausing in their amorous intentions. It's very frustrating for Brian as all he can catch is weed and all we can hear on this perfectly still evening is jumping fish.

The morning started fine. I opened the tent to see orange early light diffusing through a veneer of mist.

However, as I shouldered the pack the mist thickened, and, to cut a long story short, it rained for three hours. It rained properly, not just short showers as on earlier days. This made my yomp up Creag nan Gobhar, then Ben Vuirich (at 903 metres nearly a Munro) a little taxing. Occasional sightings of blue sky held good omens but didn't affect the ferocity of the rain. As I left Vuirich's summit the nearby Corbett Top appeared, so I went up there in the hope of getting a view. The mist beat me, so I headed down to Daldhu for a second breakfast (of lunch provisions).

Some miserable looking DOE kids hobbled past. Their supervisor followed. We chatted. The children had not appreciated the unexpected rain.

A rickety bridge at Creag Loisk led to more rough ground before the Upper Lunch Hut was reached. Here I joined the Cateran Trail, remaining on it for most of the rest of the day.

Lunch comprised a breakfast, lunch actually having been eaten for breakfast.

By now my sunburnt arms from yesterday were stinging in today's bright sunshine, the clouds having finally evaporated. Rather than use valuable sun tan cream (perhaps a re-supply visit yesterday to Blair Atholl would have been wise) I chose to call in at the Spittal of Glenshee Hotel. It has changed hands since last year and has become 'walker friendly', with a 20% discount for Challengers. Some have actually been seen go through here! I bought a meal. It was 3 pm. Cyclists on a 200 km endurance ride were passing through, getting their cards signed in the hotel and testing its soft drink resources.

The change of hands is good news.

Then, on along the Cateran Trail and up to this delightful spot by Loch Beanie, where Brian, originally from Christchurch, arrived shortly after my tent was set up. He's walking the Cateran Trail and is using New Zealand survival techniques. That means he has a surfeit of clothes, food and sundry survival equipment. But he has no fish. There is too much weed in the loch despite the love-bird swans doing their best to eat it. Brian admits he has a thing or two to learn about lightweight backpacking. But "I can carry it, so what's the problem, I have everything I need" he observes "anyway it only weighs 30 kg". I look at him in amazement. He's a strapping lad, yes, but 30 kg...?

I try to lift Brian's rucksack, already lightened by removal of his tent. I fail! It really is extremely heavy, and he's doing up to 20 miles a day.

Good to meet you Brian; have fun with your UK backpacking exploits.

The evening passed quickly. My worry about upsetting Gayle with frivolous comments on these pages has been eased by a series of text messages - she knows a wind-up when she sees one; I shouldn't have worried...

Today's yomping has been closely attended by trilling curlew and anxious lapwings. I've been careful to avoid standing on any nests. And this morning, whilst in the cloud, I noticed lots of 'cloudberry' - abundant but not yet in flower in these parts.

We are camped a few metres from another sad reminder of our own mortality. A large cairn with a plaque:

Heather (Hepburn) Halhead
1956 - 2001
Beloved Wife and Mum

Tomorrow I join a 'trade route' ('trade = easy) where there's an outside chance I may meet some other Challengers. You see, it's not all hard stuff for me - I think I'll wind down with some easy days. Have to get there first, of course.

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The Spittal of Glenshee

For the first time in four TGO Challenges, my route is going to intersect with a previous one. A couple of miles will be duplicated.

A shame really.

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Sunday 23 May 2010 - TGO Challenge Day 10 - Plan – Watershed at NN 974 656 to Loch Beanie

Martin’s planned route and statistics for today are shown below:

1 Watershed at NN 974 656
2 Creag nan Gobhar
3 Ben Vuirich (Corbett)
4 Daldhu
5 Bridge at Creag Loisk
6 Track junction by lunch hut
7 Spittal of Glenshee
8 Westerton of Runavey
9 Boathouse at Loch Beanie – 410 metres (NO 156 685)

Statistics
27 km
1179 metres ascent
11.4 hours
(1 Corbett)

TGO Challenge 2010 - Day 9 - Loch Tummel Inn to Wild Camp by Allt na Leacainn Moine (NN 979 659) - Cool Mountain Air

Distance walked: 24.5 km
Metres ascent: 1119
Time taken: 9.25 hours including 1.75 hours stops
No of Challengers seen: 0
No of Day Walkers coming down Ben Vrackie: approx 50 - the first walkers seen since Tuesday am in the Mamores (excluding Arbroath Spacemen)
No of Cool Mountain Summits: 1

"That's a long way down the road" Amanda observed, looking at the 11 km thin blue line on my map to Garry Bridge, "why don't you use the footpath to Blair Atholl? It starts next door."

I looked up the road to 'next door'. Sure enough, "Blair Atholl" announced the green footpath sign.

The map confirmed that by taking this route to Killicrankie rather than my planned route I would be walking just 3 km along a minor road rather than 11 km along a main road, the overall distance remaining similar and the height gain being slightly less by the Blair Atholl route, with the promise of better views.

A 'no-brainer'. Thank you Amanda. She and Tom run the establishment that is the 200 year old Loch Tummel Inn. They were very disappointed in having been forced to close the previous day because of Scottish Power having turned off their supply for most of the day. They apologise to any disappointed Challengers.

Those people rightly deserve to be disappointed. I sampled as much of the menu as I could and found myself asking about the recipes.

"Chefs' own" Tom explained, "one them is from Gleneagles and the other trained as a pastry chef under Gary Rhodes."

So, after the best part of a day spent luxuriating in the lovely surroundings of Loch Tummel and Schiehallion, and waiting patiently for my 8.30 breakfast (I suppose it's only reasonable to start late if you work late into the evening running a busy restaurant) I set off along the footpath to Blair Atholl, fortified by the bacon, egg, haggis, black pudding, mushrooms, tomato, potato scone and (just one) sausage that constituted their excellent Full Scottish Breakfast.

As yesterday, when it actually rained as I took the tent down, low cloud dominated the early morning, slowly raising its cloak to produce another warm sunny day.

Great!

The footpath was well marked with Scottish Rights of Way Society signs and finger posts. The reflections in Loch Tummel were replaced by views in mature woodland, the paths lined with wood anemones, wood sorrel, speedwell, etc. Only one short section was akin to a forest 'ride' in Snowdonia.

Shorts were deployed.

The woodland route reached pretty Loch Bhac, from where a footpath across open moorland provided an easy heathery stroll down to Blair Atholl, the ugly scar of the Munro baggers' route up Carn Liath (Beinn a' Ghlo) drawing ever closer.

Butterwort, tormentil, vetches, milkwort and speedwells were all in flower. Perhaps I know why...

It was Hot.

Cool Mountain Air was required.

My route provided the solution. After a quiet lane lined by a plethora of brightly coloured flowers, and lunch at the Killiecrankie Visitor Centre (it's a shame I didn't get to walk up the riverside path from Garry Bridge, but I've done that a few times, and the route via Blair Atholl was in all other respects superior) I set off up a well marked path up Ben Vrackie. As the traffic noise from the A9 slowly subsided, so did the air temperature, making it feel like a high Alpine day. Delightful.

Suddenly I started meeting people, for the first time on the hill in four days. One of them explained why:

"It's the only decent hill that you can walk up from the door of any B&B in Pitlochry. And it's a well constructed path."

Anyway, it was very pleasant on top, where I lingered for a while before donning trouser legs and gaiters for the 5 km yomp past herds of deer to this delightful 8th wild camp of the trip (pictured).

The deer are very noisy, I hope I'm not in their way.

Talking of yomping, I've worked out that out of 9 days so far I've walked the equivalent of 5 days on pathless terrain. Perhaps it is a truly exclusive route...

There's more yomping tomorrow. And a Fleshpot. Will I see my third Challenger?

Now for a few messages and a gear supplement:

Gayle, are you inferring that my friends, my fellow bloggers, are taking 'girlie' routes. Tut tut! The hit squad will be after you! I have however noted that one of my fellow bloggers has wimped out of crossing the Fords of Avon. Maybe he's lost his crutches? Yes, I'm sure. That Must be the reason.

Geoffrey, I'm not really against trial (or is it 'trail' bikes), other than the numpties who bring them into disrepute in the Peaks and Dales. But I've seen ancient, fragile paths ripped to shreds by them during the course of this trip.
As for the crutches - see below.

Nick, you can't tell me in one breath that you are going to live in Zug, and in the next breath you won't be fit enough for TGOC 2011! The two don't compute.

Gear:

I'm not a gear freak, and I don't think going light is necessarily the most comfortable way to travel. But I'm lucky, I seem to be happy to carry more to stay comfy. I've not bought anything significant specifically for this year's backpacking trips, but I'll comment on the following fairly recent acquisitions:

Thermarest NeoAir (short) - I didn't get on well with this at first and nearly re-sold it. But I have to say that on this dry trip, with seven successive wild camps, it has been brilliant. So in dry weather, on flat pitches, it's great.

Pacerpole Crutches - I find these much easier on my wrists than the Lekis that I lost in Italy. Crutches are of course a Necessity of Life, Geoffrey, when your knees have had as many bits taken out or exchanged as mine have done.

Scarpa Infinity boots. Like last year's equally comfy Asolo Fugitives, these have now spent many days sloshing through boggy, pathless terrain. Unlike the Fugitives they are still keeping my feet dry.

John West seared tuna fillets - an excellent addition to flavoured 'pasta n sauce'.

Aquagear Water Filter (now 'Travel Tap') - a provider of much peace of mind, even if it does encourage laziness regarding the sourcing of spring water.

Golite Quest rucksack - ok in good weather, really annoying in bad weather, for which I find the slightly heavier Karrimor Jaguar better because it has a tent compartment. Is there anything like the Quest on the market that has a tent compartment, which is really useful on wet days?

Alpkit titanium tent pegs - as recommended by Gayle and Mick - for complete peace of mind in a storm.

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The River Garry at Killiecrankie

Have followed a girlie's route this morning. Very nice! Can I come with you next year please, Gayle? (Whose routes by definition are all 'girlie'...)

It's hot down here, though. Need to gain height.


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Saturday 22 May 2010 - TGO Challenge Day 9 - Plan – Loch Tummel Inn to Watershed at NN 974 656

Martin’s planned route and statistics for today are shown below:

1 Loch Tummel Inn
2 Campsite
3 Road junction
4 Garry Bridge
5 Killicrankie
6 Path junction
7 Ben Vrackie (Corbett)
8 Meall Breac
9 Watershed at 440 metres (NN 974 656)

Statistics
23 km
1221 metres ascent
10.1 hours
(1 Corbett)

A Fine Place for an episode of R + R

Judging by the colour of the sky, today should be a good one as I watch the mist clear from the glassy loch and the martins hoovering up the insects.

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TGO Challenge 2010 - Day 8 - Wild Camp looking towards Schiehallion to Loch Tummel Inn - A Rest Day

Distance walked: 18 km (Cum 191 km / 119 miles)
Metres ascent: 364 (Cum 10480 m / 32300 feet)
Time taken: 4.8 hours including 1.1 hours stops
No of Challengers seen: 0
Amount of clothing washed: All

Enjoyed a lie in then headed down through a cloud inversion, past a female black grouse on her nest (I got to within a metre - she'd have pecked me rather than leave), then strolled along the B846 road for a while, beside the tumbling waters of the River Tummel, before hitting forest tracks at Easter Bohespic.
In contrast to the uplands of previous days, the riverside woods were full of the twitter of songbirds, whilst oyster catchers, grouse and chickens competed for space in the neighbouring fields.

Wood sorrel and primroses lined the hedgerows.

The pinewoods after Easter Bohespic were a little oppressive on the hot day, but the scent of fresh pine was gorgeous.

A long brew stop and early consumption of my last tin of fish was enjoyed overlooking Loch Tummel and Schiehallion.
A great spot.

After a further diversion by way of a phone call home whilst I had a signal, the inevitable happened. It was just 12 noon when I reached Loch Tummel Inn - much earlier than originally planned. That gave me time for a tasty lunch outside, watching goldcrests in the fir trees and the reflection of hills in the placid waters of Loch Tummel, before setting out on the task of washing all my clothes. There aren't many. It didn't take long!

Annoyingly, there's no phone signal inside, but whilst lunching outside I perused the activities of some of my fellow bloggers.

(Since I've hardly met anyone, this is the closest I can get by way of a feel for how others are getting on.)

I'm not going to insert links (until back home) but you can easily Google them or pick them up from the TGO Challenge message board (to which I can't seem to respond to comments using this phone, but thanks Gibson for the mention).

The blog report will certainly 'mature', but here's my current take on them, and no criticism should be inferred - I know it's much harder to make postings on the move than it is from your keyboard at home.

'London Backpacker' (George) seems marooned on Day 2 - where 'Tales from the Riverbank' hint at an easy, low level, meander across Scotland.

Bellavist (Aussie Mike) tells of a wild camp at Glen Tromie yesterday - a brief report on a long day, but I can't see any evidence of what he got up to during the intervening week.

Alan Sloman's reports are punchy, entertaining and up to date. The F16s (was that what they were?) flew very low yesterday - far below me - they must have been quite scary for those beneath them. Whilst Alan may be putting more energy into blogging than into actually walking, he has at least tried to go high - baulked by the bad timing of the only two poor bits of weather on the Challenge. He has bagged a Munro, which is more than I've done. That's 1:0 to you Alan. Well done!

Phil Turner is up to his Day 4 (Tuesday) and seems marooned in the Monadliath with Humphrey, no doubt at one of Humphrey's many 'secret places'. So they may never be found. His blog is hard to view on this Blackberry phone.

'Sheddweller' (new to me) is up to his Day 5 (also Tuesday). He must be in a completely different climate to me. He has been cold! With two sleeping bags and a down jacket! Is his blog a work of fiction, I wonder? Or has he forgotten to bring a tent/shed? He seems to be on a low level route with lots of roads and erratic distances. A novice?

Litehiker (Geoff), who I met on the train, is blogging like a professional and is up to his Day 6 (Wednesday). He has rushed across on an easy, low level, route - choosing to ignore even easy summits like the one from the top of the Burma Road. He has reached Loch Morvich and will next report on his Cairngorm crossing - by the easiest route available, I presume. Is Geoff's route much of a challenge for such an experienced backpacker? I think not, but he seems to be enjoying it.

Steve Horner is supposed to be blogging, but it appears I am not authorised to access his website!

Sectionhiker (an American) has posted a route but doesn't seem to be blogging about his progress along it.

UKmase - another on the list, but he doesn't seem to be posting anything.

So there don't appear to be many of us active, just Geoff and Sheddweller, and maybe George, on low level routes, Phil Turner lost in the Monads, me taking my (excessively?) exclusive high line, and dear old Alan pretending he's Paul Theroux. His blog is the pick of the bunch, and it's impressive that he's doing it whilst carrying on various other nefarious activities. He must be keeping 'his man' busy.

I'll do a gear report tomorrow, but after this afternoon's rest in the sun beside Loch Tummel, and this evening's sumptuous feast...

Zzzzzzz

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Friday 21 May 2010 - TGO Challenge Day 8 - Plan - Duinish to Loch Tummel Inn

Martin’s planned route and statistics for today are shown below:

1 Duinish
2 Col by Gualann Sheileach
3 Creag a Mhadaidh (Graham)
4 Bridge (I hope!)
5 End of ‘path’ (if there is one)
6 Beinn a’ Chuallaich (Corbett)
7 B846 at Drumglas
8 Road junction
9 Track junction
10 Track junction
11 Track junction
12 Loch Tummel Inn – 220 metres (NN 818 602)

Statistics
30 km
1151 metres ascent
12.3 hours
(1 Corbett, 1 Graham)

TGO Challenge 2010 - Day 7 - By the ruin of Ruighe Ghlas near the head of Loch Ericht to Wild Camp at NN 688 593 looking towards Schiehallion - I Met a TGO Challenger!

 

Distance walked: 25 km
Metres ascent: 1386
Time taken: 11.9 hours including 2.7 hours stops
No of Challengers seen: 1
No of Human Encounters: 1?

First, my apologies for the Duinish Bothy postings - only Markus Petter may understand them. Mr Knipe is understood merely to be indisposed, with a severe bout of intermittence.

Shortly after setting out this morning I came across a creature from Outer Space. It was dressed in a silver hump and ambulated using a couple of long black matchsticks. It turned out to be Wullie Clark. From Arbroath. Does that count as Outer Space? Our paths crossed for all of 30 minutes. We had a good chat. He hadn't seen another Challenger since leaving Tomdoun, several sunrises ago. He has an allotment. He (like me) likes to keep his feet dry.

Then he was gone. Disappeared into the mist. Did he really exist? His name is on the list...

The day started misty and mizzly. Beinn Boidheach was in cloud. And accessed via peat hags. I waited at the top for the cloud to clear. The GPS batteries went dead. The cloud didn't clear. I found a compass. More peat hags. They were expected. They remind me of my youth - on the North Yorks Moors. And of my adult life - walking in the Dales and the Peaks. I can do peat hags. Fun to navigate through in mist...

The summit of Beinn Mholach appeared. I waited for the mist to clear. It didn't. A phone signal? The battery was flat. I lingered in the mist, faffing with changing batteries on various gadgets that all conspired to fail at the same time.

Went down to Duinish. Saw a man in a silver space suit below. Wullie - he was heading to Loch Garry by a valley route. Duinish wasn't on his itinerary. The bothy had only seen a couple of visitors since I was there with Markus in April. There was no sign of the ghost. Nor any other sign of a visiting Challenger. Either this year or last year.

The mist cleared and I was attacked by a message from Markus and a lump of hot, humid air. Seeking respite at higher altitude I headed up a hill, Creag a Mhadaidh. It had fewer peat hags than expected. I didn't really expect to see swallows here. But I did.

Ptarmigan and both black and red grouse were also to be seen. And mountain hares.

Down to a bridge at Loch Errochty. Very pleasant in the sunshine. Ate a tin of fish. Admired dog violets and pansies, and pretty yellow flowers a similar size to milkwort but more straggly.

Lizards (or were they small snakes?) scuttled away as I disturbed the heather on the steep ascent of Beinn a' Chuallaich. My vetter said I'd be lucky to find a path up here. I got lucky. No peat hags either. The summit was about the same height as the 900 metre cloud base. So the views were interesting.

Descended to this spot (pictured) at 420 metres and with fine views across to Schiehallion, which I've enjoyed all evening.

Thus ends Part One of this year's TGOC. Part Two will be more sociable. Tomorrow the second part of today's route will be posted, and I won't be overshooting the destination as I have an inflexible end point.

Bye for now.

Duinish Bothy, where the ghost of Mike Knipe

...has left in search of Kylie - or is the ghost stuck up the chimney?

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Duinish Bothy

Where the Ghost of Mike Knipe.....

(Had you wondered why there was an intermission at 'Northern Pies?)

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Day 6 Camp

Another excellent site.


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