Sue and Martin in Mallorca 2019

Sue and Martin in Mallorca 2019
On the Archduke's Path in Mallorca

Saturday, 17 January 2009

Ken's Night Out ('Cold Enough to Freeze the Medals off a Brass General')

Ken's comment on yesterday's posting warrants a little more than his modest 'aside'. So I've inserted an actual image from a 'Gold Camp' for which Ken was practicing, and here is his report on last night's 'Bivvi in the Park'.

They are made of strong stuff over here!


Actually it got down to about -35C at our 'camping' spot near Lac Philippe (hard to tell since my thermometer only reads down to -30C).
Three of us set out last night from the bright lights of Ottawa to the snow laden forests of Gatineau Park. The purpose of the trip was to try out our gear for the Canadian Ski Marathon Coureur des Bois Or, which involves skiing 80km in a day, camping overnight, then skiing another 80km the following day.

So you need to get your backpack down to a manageable weight but without being too cold at night.
I discovered a few things:
  • I need to make a few adjustments to my kit.
  • It was too crowded in my sleeping bag with ski boots, booties, over mitts, water bottle, pee bottle, midnight snacks, phone; hardly enough room for me. I am average size but my "large" bag wasn't big enough. How do "Clydesdales" (large people) cope? I had to get rid of the ski boots and put boot warmers (heat packs) in them in the morning.
  • At low temperatures: duct tape and foot warmers are not sticky; Thermarests do not self-inflate, unless you blow into them really hard (when you close the valve it then freezes shut); Ziploc bags do not open easily and when they do they tear; peanut butter freezes.
  • After you have been sitting round a smoky campfire at -35C, you smell worse than a kipper...!

Ken

Ken also reports that he got about 2 hours' sleep.

Friday 16 January 2009 – Deep Freeze in Ottawa

Sue and Helen on Bate Island on Friday morning

Our journey here yesterday was wholly uneventful, unless you regard an encounter with Bobby Charlton, who failed to recognise me despite my having spent many hours on the terraces of Old Trafford in full view of him, as an event.

It was quite a long day, during which we conspired, so far as I can recall, to enjoy at least five meals.

After hitting the sack at 10pm we managed to sleep soundly until 7am; so there is no jet lag on this occasion.

It dawned bright and sunny. But cold. It’s between about -20 and -30°C here, so just a bit chilly. We had already decided not to ski today, so a trip to the Visitor Centre to collect my ski pass (we have enough vouchers for Sue not to need one) was all that was on the agenda. On the way we passed an accident. Apparently the salt doesn’t work below -20°C. I’m told there were 175 recorded accidents in Ottawa yesterday.

The Ottawa River is only partially frozen. The current cold snap is the first of the winter, so the river is still flowing strongly. In this weather a local fog arises from the river, so at places like Bate Island, where we paused this morning, the trees are encrusted with the soft hoar of the frosted vapour.

Bate Island is accessed from a bridge over the Ottawa River, linking Ontario, where we are staying, with Quebec, where our skiing area – Gatineau Park – is situated. I wonder which district Bate Island is in?

Later, a short stroll from Woodroffe Towers drew us back down to the river on a ‘dog walker’s’ circuit in brilliant sunshine, but in temperatures that served to confirm the efficacy of the local frostbite warning.

A lone skier had appeared to produce this furrow, but it is probably the groove of many folk, taking their exercise in single file....


Meanwhile, 'Crazy Ken' was unable to join us today due to having to go to work. He is making up for it by camping out in Gatineau Park tonight, together with a couple of crazy mates. Well, they are not actually camping, just bivvying. It'll be interesting to see how cold it/they get(s)!

Good luck Ken. Please report back on your experience.

Thursday, 15 January 2009

Across the Pond

1501lacphilippeHere are our hosts for the next few weeks, pictured on 28 January 2006 on the 'pond' known as Lac Philippe.

Hello Ken.
Hello Helen.

We hope to be able to post regularly, but please bear with us if we go a bit quiet.

Wednesday, 14 January 2009

A New Hat

Courtesy of a little competition run by Phil, over at Doodlecat, and with the assistance of a pin (well, it was a little more scientific than that) I have A New Hat.1401hat It's Lowe Alpine's legendary 'Mountain GTX Cap', or 'Mountain GTX Casquette' - sorry, I'm just practicing the lingo for our next destination - and the Hat will certainly come in useful where we are going.  The maximum day temperature there over the next five days is currently forecast to vary between -11 and -22°C.

I won't be providing a test report on this excellent piece of kit as it is of known, and very sound, provenance - best used in very cold weather, I hear, and we are certainly heading towards that.

So, thank you Phil for drawing my name out of the 'hat' at such an opportune time, and for delivering said item so efficiently.

Hoorah!

Tuesday, 13 January 2009

Rob Gauntlett and James Atkinson

We were saddened at the weekend to hear of the deaths of Rob Gauntlett and James Atkinson.  Back in 2006 Rob achieved fame as the youngest Brit, aged 19, to summit Everest.

1301gauntlett

 

 

This image, copyright of Adventure Peaks, shows Rob with James Hooper above the Third Step.

 

 

 

 

Here, they celebrate on the summit with Stu Peacock.

We followed their expedition with great interest, as our friend Conan Harrod, who had broken his leg near the summit of Everest three years earlier, was also on that trip.  It was an anxious day, as following the news of the youngsters' success, there was no news of Conan for several hours.  In their euphoria, the Adventure Peaks team had forgotten to broadcast his success, shortly after Rob and James.

It is of no comfort to know that accidents amongst those who climb at the levels of these folk are all too frequent, especially in popular places like the Chamonix area.

Our thoughts are with everyone concerned.

A report is here.  And a tribute is here.

Monday, 12 January 2009

Saturday and Sunday 10/11 January 2009 - À La Carte at Ashburton

As a special treat, for a special occasion, Sue and I enjoyed a weekend at Ashburton Cookery School.

1001ashburton1 We were students on the two day 'Express Dinner Parties Plus' course.  Eight of us were guided through some inspirational menus by Joe 'passionate about food' Bartlett.  We had great fun all weekend, not least enjoying the products of our efforts.

Saturday involved cooking for lunch and dinner, whilst on Sunday we enjoyed a light lunch and an early dinner, enabling us to start the long journey home by 4pm.

Saturday Lunch

Selection of canapés (crab and avocado bread tartlets, parmesan biscuits, and stilton and sesame biscuits)
Creamy mussels with leeks, bacon and smoked paprika (below - getting this ready for 'service')1002ashburton2

Saturday Dinner

Leek, garlic and sweet potato soup (to take home)
Roast duck breast with a cassis jus, Dauphinoise potatoes and glazed green beans
Apple tarte tatin with crème fraiche

Sunday Menu

1003ashburton3 Chicken liver paté with red onion marmalade (to take home)
Mini aromatic seafood parcel (a delicious snack for lunch)
Roasted chicken breast wrapped with parma ham stuffed with red onion marmalade and goats cheese, together with pesto new potatoes and balsamic dressed salad leaves (above)
Seasonal fruit sabayon with lemon shortbreads (below)1004ashburton4
We also made copious quantities of vegetable stock and white bread rolls.

Thank you, everyone, for making this such a pleasurable weekend.
In particular, thank you to Maureen and Trevor in Exeter for their hospitality on Friday and Saturday - their skills as former B&B proprietors remain undiminished despite several years of retirement.

For a small (13 images) album of snaps from the weekend, click here.

Bon appetit...

Friday, 9 January 2009

Snowdonia

0901GarneddGoch

We are away for a few days on a cookery course.  So blogging is not at the forefront of our agenda.

At about this time last year we were trotting along the Nantlle Ridge.  Here is Sue, with John Shipton lagging behind, on the approach to Garnedd Goch, with just a touch of cloud over Snowdon's summit behind us.

It'll be a bit warmer in the kitchen!

Thursday, 8 January 2009

A Trip to Salford Quays

0501reflectionWhen I arrived in Manchester as a student I visited the docks at Salford.  One of my cousins was a merchant seaman and his boat was docked there.  It was an interesting excursion into a world that I've never revisited.  I remember comparing his cramped living quarters with my tiny room in St Anselm's hall of residence - my home for two years.

I have revisited the scene of our rendezvous many times, and have witnessed the area being cleared of the hustle and bustle of the merchant shipping and redeveloped as offices and leisure facilities, as well as high rise housing.

Monday's visit to Salford Quays, as they are now known, to replenish essential supplies from a factory shop, was blessed with superb weather.  The reflections from the glass laden office block across the bridge from the Lowry Centre were brilliant - better than any filter or distortion that Photoshop might come up with.

0502building
A 180° turn switches one's outlook to this fine suspension bridge.

0503bridge   0504bridge2 From the Lowry Centre side of the bridge the new(ish) Imperial War Museum North stands rather starkly before you - on this day the huge tower of the museum was acting as a massive reflector of the low sun.  This link provides more information on the architecture etc.

0505museum1The Lowry Centre - housing theatres and (I think) the largest single exhibition of Lowry's iconic paintings - was largely in the shade of a giant block of flats at the time of our visit.

0506lowry

Tuesday, 6 January 2009

Drop Scones

0404dropsconesWe've enjoyed these scones twice this year, first on New Year's Day after our return from the hoar frost of the Sandstone Trail.  Our stalwart house minders (they've been busy over the past year), Andrea and Thomas, joined us and very much enjoyed this little treat, so I promised to put the recipe on the web site.  But before doing that an image was required, and we had eaten them all.  So I  made some more the other day.

The recipe was given to me by my mother when I headed off to be a student at UMIST, in the days when steam trains still huffed and puffed along the viaduct that splits the Sackville Street campus. 

The scones take a good 5 minutes to make, so they can be produced whilst the kettle boils - highly recommended as a mid afternoon snack at this time of year.

Drop Scones

4 oz (110 gm) plain flour
2 level teaspoons baking powder
1 oz (30 gm) caster sugar
pinch of salt
1 egg
¼ pint (140 ml) milk
1 tablespoonful of cooking oil (keeps scones moist)

Sieve together all the dry ingredients.
Beat in the egg, then the milk.
Stir in the cooking oil.

Grease and heat a griddle (or frying pan).

Test by dropping a small spoonful of mixture onto the griddle.
If it bubbles the griddle is ready.

This simple recipe makes about 20 scones. They soon go!
If you double the quantities, don't double the amount of baking powder.

Even the Pie Man should cope with this one!

Sunday, 4 January 2009

Sunday 4 January 2009 - Dunham Massey

0401dunham Today's short burst of exercise involved a 5 km stroll around the park and canal by Dunham Massey, our local National Trust house.

There was a hint of blue through the greyness of the high pressure cloud, but there were also a few snow flurries, so on balance we felt pleased to have brought forward our planned day out to yesterday.

0402leaves My picture of oak leaf litter may have benefited from this photoshop filter:

Perhaps not!

 

 

The fallow deer are used to the presence of humans, though this gent has a scary glint in his eye...0403fallow Then it was home to more afternoon tea and drop scones.
[See next posting...]

Saturday 3 January 2009 - A Raw Day on Ingleborough

0302tractor
Today the weather forecasters drew us out of the house a day early for our 'Sunday Walk'.  Luckily, our plans had not been advertised, so adjustments could be made. 

Setting off from Ingleton at 10 am we were disappointed to find grey skies instead of the predicted blue ones.  However, with only a handful of folk around, we enjoyed a peaceful ascent of Ingleborough via Crina Bottom.  A descending photographer concurred with our feeling that it would be a 'grey day' all day.  He was returning from the summit empty handed - fooled into an early rise by the forecasters.

The path was well frozen and quite icy, though the precautionary crampons were not needed.  With an increasingly bitter breeze as we approached the summit, we were impressed to see two well equipped young cyclists skillfully (and courteously) negotiating the difficult stepped descent.

On the top, various folk ambled around in conditions that could be described as 'benign but raw'.
0303summit Pen-y-ghent lurks behind Sue's right shoulder.

A little care was needed on the steep descent to Chapel-le-Dale, with the sun tantalisingly beating down only 5-10 km to the north.

Dropping to the main road via Souther Scales, we then headed around the chapel and past a group of cave divers beside Hurtle Pot, before coming across this statue.
 0304statue
This plaque provides its history.  Wow - no vandals here for 25 years!
0308plaque
After another luxurious picnic lunch, with fine if grey views, we headed on up the lane below the grey-green bulk of Whernside.  A left turn by Ellerbeck along the flat and frozen path across Scales Moor took us to a fine vista back to the Ribblehead Viaduct, and across to the frost covered northern slopes of Ingleborough.

0304ribblehead 0305ingleborough
Sheep shivered, and hopefully avoided slipping down the 'pots' that litter this area.
0306hole
There was no sign of any snow despite the illusion - it's just frost.

Photography was difficult on this grey day; we snapped away but were unable to capture the ribbon of red that graced the horizon above Morecambe Bay.  Later this red light turned to purple after the sun had set - memorable, but too distant to record the image.

There had been many folk on Ingleborough, but our fine route back to Ingleton was deserted until we reached Twistleton and joined a procession of people on the latter stages of Ingleton's famous Waterfall Walk, the charge for which (£4.50 for an adult) seems exorbitant, but as we joined in the middle of the route we avoided any payment.

It was dark and slippery in the chasm that the well constructed path negotiates beside the River Doe before drifting past a quarry and along side roads into the village, but Sue did manage this pleasing image of Beesley Falls.
0307beesley  
Bernie's Café in Ingleton provided good value tea and cake to fuel us for the journey home.

This was a slightly more energetic route than some of our recent strolls, but a very pleasant one and extremely simple to navigate - the 19 km with 800 metres ascent took us just under 5 hours, excluding (brief because it was chilly) stops.  Here's the outline.
 0301route

BTW - I'm afraid we failed to clear the litter shown in the top picture.  So much for that resolution, but we may persist with bottles and cans, etc.

Friday, 2 January 2009

Thursday 1 January 2009 - Hoar Frost on The Sandstone Trail

0106hoar Happy New Year!

A short drive in freezing conditions to the Candle Workshops at Higher Burwardsley (SJ 521 563) saw Sue and I setting off on a circuit involving the Sandstone Trail, by 10.30, along with an assortment of unconnected folk, mostly with frisky dogs to exercise.  Especially the one that arrived in the back of a pick-up truck, dribbling a six inch icicle.

Hoar frost dominated the day.  Sadly a lack of sunshine led to monochromatic views.  It was however beautiful.  We encountered locals who said they had never experienced quite this level of frost on the trees, which appeared as if in full white foliage.  It was chilly.  There had obviously been repeated hoar frosts over a day or two, as for a lot of the time our path was thick with the white crystals that made it look as if there had been a light covering of snow.  But it was just frost.

There were lots of people out.  Someone had obviously celebrated the New Year at Rawhead, at all of 227 metres our high point for today and the highest point on the 34 mile Sandstone Trail - and had left their empty 'Asti' bottle on the trig point.  So they were cheapskates as well as litter louts!  The bottle is now being recycled, and today in Timperley we saw someone else selflessly clearing discarded beer cans from beside the canal towpath.  Start as we mean to continue, this year...

Bickerton Hill, the site of one of our memorable summer evening BBQs was donated to the National Trust by the Wheeldon family.  There's a commemorative plaque with some poetry - I'll save that for a future posting on an uneventful day so, dear reader, you are spared for now!0104plaque Hopefully, unlike the Ellerside Ridge near Cartmel, this place is not threatened by the 'march of the wind turbines'.  We enjoyed a fine picnic, our first of the year, involving smoked salmon and other delicacies.0107picnic New Year's Day always seems to have the air of a fresh start, and today was no exception.  Almost everyone we encountered was up for a chat.  Whilst we were out for a walk on our own, it really did feel most sociable.

As usual, I started a list of birds for the new year.  This always gets started but doesn't progress far.  Today we saw buzzards, huge flocks of chaffinches and starlings, great tit, blue tit, greenfinch, wren, heron, carrion crow, blackbird, thrush (not sure which sort) sparrows (ditto), numerous robins, feral pigeons, wood pigeons, pheasants and magpies.  And due to our speed of passage we probably missed a lot more.

The photos are all very similar, but here are a few more images, below which is an outline of our 15 km route, which included 550 metres of ascent and took us a brisk 3½ hours, including stops. 0110woods 0109pine0111house 0105ivy0108berries 0112hill 0103route

New Year's Eve Royalty

Princess Kate and Prince Andrew were our hosts for New Year's Eve and are responsible for my aching shoulders, as they had a Wii for Christmas....!
Thanks for a lovely evening and a feast fit for a King.

Thursday, 1 January 2009

A New Year's Eve Engagement

0101katesimon Congratulations to Kate, and to Simon who chose to prostrate himself in front of my daughter in the last hours of 2008.

Our very best wishes go to you both.  2009 is off to a great start...

Wednesday, 31 December 2008

Saturday 27 December 2008 - Cartmel and the Ellerside Ridge

2702priory This was our last walk of the year.  It was fitting that the sun beamed down on us all day from a clear blue sky, leaving us - despite the cold - with our abiding memory of this year...

A Year of Constant Summer.

We can only hope for (but don't expect) the same next year.

I notice Martin Rye is being complimented on his gear reviews.  We are pleased not to have been serious testers of gear (though we are available as such) this year, as we would have struggled to achieve much proper testing.

That said, I have the following observations:

1.  Innov8 Roclite shoes - fell apart after less than 300 km of gentle use.
2.  Waterproofs - not really tested despite our having been 'out' for around 150 days this year.
3.  Terra Nova Hyperspace tent - withstood strong gales - I feel it was tested despite only being used in anger on two nights.
4.  Hilleberg Nallo tent - now 4½ years old, used for 100+ nights in Scotland, Pyrenees and Alps.  Still not 'tested' by the weather.  An excellent tent nevertheless.
5.  Hi-Tec Altitude Ultra boots (courtesy of WD and Hi-Tec) - I am testing these and their low weight and extreme comfort have created a very good impression so far.  Maybe soon I'll get a chance to test their waterproof qualities.

A fuller review of some of the kit we used this year may follow when time permits.

Cartmel was reached by 10am.  There were plenty of parking spaces in the village, making for an easy rendezvous with Nick and Daniela, with time to wander in the grounds of the impressive Priory (above) before enjoying coffees in the 'tea shop'.  The owners hoped we would be the first of many customers today.

A stroll through the quiet village, past several hostelries, led us to the unlikely site of a racecourse.  It hosts an annual horse racing meeting which must transform the normally tranquil village into the scene and atmosphere of a splendid carnival.

In today's sub-zero temperatures we strolled briskly on, past the fields of Seven Acres Farm and into Lane Park Wood.  On and on, missing our planned turn right up the path that the 'Cumbria Coastal Way' shares with the 'Cistercian Way'. 

I blame Daniela - she was chatty as ever.  Not to worry though, she and Nick were savouring this rare taste of English countryside before their imminent return to Shanghai, where Nick has as tough a job as we can imagine.

It was easy to regain our route via a short stroll past Holker Hall up the B5278 road, then muddling our way along the vague forestry tracks around Long Scar.

Before long we found ourselves rising up to the Ellerside Ridge, where our high point for the day - at all of 170 metres - lay at a trig point slightly off the path at How Barrow.   We lingered here with tea and CCS for quite some time.  It was sunny, calm and very pleasant.  We had some lunch.  A tripod was found for some group photos.2703howbarrow  Striking poses were formed against the backdrop of the Coniston peaks and wide views of the Lake District, Morecambe Bay, and the Yorkshire Dales with Ingleborough's distinctive outline.

The ridge held fine views despite its diminutive stature.  Being outside the Lake District National Park, very few folk were around on this stunning day.  A fox scampered in front of us, and an ancient aircraft looped the loop in the distance.2705ellersideWe paused at length in an attempt to capture images of the ice crystals that, in the shade, were holding their form all day.2704crystals Turning along the right of way to Speel Bank Farm, the view east dominated.  Had we sported binoculars we may well have spied some 'lard' on Hutton Roof.  A dim horse at the farm tried to nibble our fingers.2706horse Our path took us up past a red deer reserve and through Collkield Wood, heading north to join a minor road at Grassgarth.  Whilst the surface was well frozen today, this short section of our stroll displayed evidence of the passage of many trail bikes that had devoured the frail paths.  Such a shame. (Actually, I think we may have missed the path here and descended on private land where trail bikes are allowed to roam.  Thankfully it was quiet today.)

A short way along the road a right turn along a dark bridleway led us into an area of forest devastation known as the Great Allotment.  The path passes small lakes and is clear and firm, leading in and out of woodland before emerging from the forest in an area that could call for waterproof footwear should the ground not be frozen.

With superb views south, we lingered here for second helpings of tea and lunch.

Paths, tracks and minor roads led on beyond Over Ridge, past tall pines with long shadows, and through narrow stiles and grassy fields to Wall Nook.2707pines Here we followed footpath signs but deviated from our planned return to Cartmel via Well Knowe.  We were distracted by a field of very large and attentive sheep.2709sheep Luckily, only I knew the plan, so nobody seemed bothered when we emerged onto a minor road at Croftside.

This lane led pleasantly back to the fleshpots of Cartmel, where throngs of visitors had filled the small village during our absence.  It was positively humming with activity.  A small boy overbalanced in his quest for fish, and plopped into the stream by the Kings Arms.  He made a fairly rapid, soggy, and no doubt shivery exit!

There's a 'sticky toffee pudding' shop here...irresistible, and well worth buying a jar of extra 'sauce'.

At 14 km, and with only 350 metres of ascent, this was indeed a short walk, but as we wound our way back to the tea shop, the low sun cast a final rosy glow over the 800 year old Priory before darkness fell.2708priory Here are a few more images from today's walk - an album of 34 images to supplement those above.

Here's an outline of our route. 2701route

And finally, as this is our last posting in 2008, Sue and I take this opportunity to wish all our readers our very best wishes for health and happiness, and even a few satisfying days out, in 2009 and beyond.  And if you'd like to join us tomorrow....we will be starting at about 10.30 from the Cheshire Workshops at Burwardsley - SJ 521 563 - for about a 15 km (9 mile) circular walk featuring the Peckforton Hills, Bickerton Hill and the Sandstone Trail.
We'll be taking butties for lunch, but also perhaps passing a hostelry.