First Sight of Glenfinnan

From Beinn Odhar Mhor.

It's a Long Way Down.

Over Extremely Rough Ground.

With Hidden Bands of Rock (aka Cliffs).

And a Sting in the Tail.

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Saturday 15 May 2010 - TGO Challenge Day 2 - Plan – Lochan Feith Easain to High Lochan at NM 885 750

Martin’s planned route and statistics for today are shown below:

1 Lochan Feith Easain
2 Beinn Mhic Cedidh (Corbett)
3 Bealach a’ Choire Bhuidhe
4 Beinn Odhar Bheag (Corbett)
5 Beinn Odhar Mhor
6 A830 road
7 Glenfinnan Visitor Centre
8 Path junction at A830
9 Leave path to ascend
10 Sgorr Craobh a’ Chaorainn (Corbett)
11 Lochan at Col  - 590 metres (NM 885 750)

Statistics
22 km
1883 metres ascent
11.7 hours
(3 Corbetts)

TGO Challenge 2010 - Day 1 - Lochailort to NM 814 789 - about 1 km from Lochan Feith Easain - The Wilds of Moidart

Distance walked: 14.5 km
Metres ascent: 1640
Time taken: 8.5 hours including 1.25 hours stops
No of Challengers seen: 0
No of Day Walkers seen: 4

Away we go...

After saying goodbye to those at the hotel, and being snapped for the album by JJ, I set off alone.

Out of 44 folk setting off from Lochailort, I seem to be the only one to be bagging the three Corbetts (mountains of 2500 to 3000 feet in height, with at least a 500 ft drop between them) immediately to the south of the hotel. Maybe they have all progressed further in an easterly direction than my paltry 5 km!

Anyway, today went well and has left me with the (I predict rare on this trip) chance for an early night.

The day started cloudy and showery, gradually improving to excellent walking weather - not too hot, very little wind, etc.

My planned route suffered an immediate amendment when I realised I'd failed to incorporate a visit to the ocean (Loch Ailort). I met two of the Americans in Russ Mannion's team who had also appreciated that particular nicety of the Challenge, but I don't know whether anyone else actually bothered to start at the coast (bar someone who was almost camping in the loch!).

There was a thin, but unexpected, path up the Allt a' Bhuiridh valley, so I took the advice of Colin Crawford (my vetter) and by-passed Seann Chruach by taking the valley path. I just about got a view from An Stac, but had to descend in mist.

Rois-Bheinn was also in mist, so there was no point in visiting its western summit. That contributed nicely to my early finish, as did the terrain, which was not as rough as I had expected. Until, that is, the final knife edge ridge of Druim Fiaclach and the following sharp descent down steep ground with randomly placed small cliffs. The key to success on the ridge was to stay on the blade of the knife - quite entertaining at times. Good views too (see snap).

I'd enjoyed lunch on the summit of my third Corbett, Sgurr Ba Glaise, after a satisfying morning's walk. Here I received a message of encouragement from Geoffrey (who I promise to visit in Macc asap) and the first of two pairs of day walkers passed by. They are the only people I saw all day.

It's a lovely evening as I gaze from the open tent down Glen Aladale to Loch Shiel, as I tuck in to my pasta and tuna dinner.

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TGO Challenge 2010 - Setting off from Lochailort on a showery morning

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Friday 14 May 2010 - TGO Challenge Day 1 - Plan – Lochailort to Lochan Feith Easain

Martin’s planned route and statistics for today are shown below:

1 Lochailort Inn
2 Seann Chruach
3 An Stac (Corbett)
4 Col at 560 metres
5 Bealach an Fhiona
6 Rois-Bheinn (Corbett)
7 Rois-Bheinn – western summit
6 Rois-Bheinn
5 Bealach an Fhiona
8 Sgurr na Ba Glaise (Corbett)
9 Lochan at 810 metres
10 Bealachan Fhalaisg Dhuibh
11 Druim Fiaclach
12 By Lochan Feith Easain – 360 metres (NM 817 792)

Statistics
16 km
1783 metres ascent
9.6 hours
(3 Corbetts)

TGO Challenge 2010 - Day 0 - Timperley to Lochailort

Left home 6.15; arrived in Lochailort at 17.15 after a smooth journey in good company.

Sue was missed - it's "hello Sue, sorry you can't be here" from lots of old friends, and "thanks for the shortbread".

The weather has clouded over as we've travelled north, after a frosty morning in Timperley. Everything seems but greener than it was three weeks ago, but it's quite dull under the heavy cloud.

Mr Sloman is, however, excessively green.

There's no picture today due to a weak/intermittent signal. But rest assured, the dull weather outside won't dampen the jollity of the evening here in the Lochailort Inn as we all stoke up in preparation for our energetic fortnight ahead.

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TGO Challenge 2010

  
The time has come…

I set off in a few hours time to the fleshpots of Lochailort, where around 40 out of a total of 300+ Challengers will be assembling before starting their walk across Scotland on Friday morning.

I’ve not had time to produce the usual web page, so my planned route will be revealed here on a day to day basis.  I’ll be setting off in a southerly direction, unlike the vast majority of those starting at Lochailort, who I suspect will be heading east.

For now, you’ll have to make do with the outline shown below; a route of 360 km (225 miles) with around 18,100 metres of ascent.  It’s highly unlikely that I’ll be able to meet this Challenge despite the encouragement of my vetter (who I thought would ‘rubbish’ my plans).  So it’s just as well that I have an alternative ‘Foul Weather Alternative’ (FWA) which comes out at a mere 320 km with only 8,600 metres of ascent.  The disadvantage is that it omits the 28 summits (2 Munros, 20 Corbetts, 5 Grahams and a Marilyn) that are included in the longer route.

Realistically, I hope to make at least 10 of those summits

Day 1 – Lochailort to Lochan Feith Easain (NM 817 792)
Day 2 – to Lochan at High Col (NM 885 750)
Day 3 – to Lochan below Beinn na h-Uamha (NM 911 664)
Day 4 – to Edge of Forest (NN 075 645)
Day 5 – to Meall na Cruaidhe (NN 249 627)
Day 6 – to Path Junction below Sron Smeur (NN 435 609)
Day 7 – to Duinish (NN 617 669)
Day 8 – to Loch Tummel Inn (NN 818 602)
Day 9 – to Watershed at NN 974 656
Day 10 – to Loch Beanie (NO 156 685)
Day 11 – to Glen Clova Hotel (NO 326 731)
Day 12 – to Tarfside (NO 491 797)
Day 13 – to North Water Bridge (NO 649 662)
Day 14 – to Montrose (NO 732 603)

My best wishes go to all the other Challengers, including the Proud Scotsmen amongst them and the various bloggers – think of them as they stand aloft Scottish peaks trying to transmit their hastily compiled words over the course of the next two weeks…

My previous three Challenges are described here, just in case anyone is interested.

Sunday 9 May 2010 – Lathkill Dale

“Let’s go to Lathkill Dale” suggested the email from Graham.

So it came to pass that a dynamic quartet winged their way, in Polly – her first outing of this nature, to Monyash.

Luckily we arrived early.  That meant we could enjoy a mug of coffee outside The Old Smithy.  It was sunny and warm, or should I say ‘warm in the sun’ (cool elsewhere…).



Six others arrived.  The route march commenced.  I know I should be in training for the TGO Challenge, so I could just about keep up.

Mike The Bus fell back.  “Only my second walk in 18 months” huff “New Camera” puff, etc, etc (I’ll try not to bore you).

Eventually we re-grouped by a field of brightly coloured flowers.

Dandelions.

Very photogenic.

The Boss had obviously fallen behind schedule as some road walking was now required.  The pace picked up again and we were soon striding into Middleton, distracted only by a hungry horse.

 
Richard tried to make a getaway, but the old Rover 100 defeated his locksmith’s skills.

It was very green by the River Bradford.

A dizzy coot watched us fly by…”why so fast?” she squawked.

We were clearly in a race against the brown trout to reach the hostelries of Youlgreave in time for lunch?

We overshot.

Suddenly we found ourselves striding on into Lathkill Dale, full of Sunday afternoon hordes. 

Surely now time for a break?  A splinter group fell briefly behind, refuelling with chocolate caramel shortbread on the hoof.  Our leader usually stops for this, but not today.

On we dashed.

“Can we stop, please?” bleated a weary soldier with a neck problem.

“Only 5 minutes, just around the next corner” was the response.

20 minutes later:

What a relief!

Afternoon – a simple solution, I just fell back and went slowly, occasionally chancing upon the route marchers who had decided to wait.

It took nearly as long to complete the afternoon’s 7 km as it had taken to walk 13 km in the morning.

We stopped to admire some flowers – they are flowering later than usual this year, but we did find one orchid by the path.


  

Tea/beer/hot chocolate/cakes all went down well at The Old Smithy, to which we had returned by 3.30, well exercised after this 20 km dash in 4.5 hours (Naismith would have taken rather longer) with 600 metres of ascent.

Here’s the route, which is not mandatory, ie footpaths to Middleton are permitted as an alternative to our rush along the roads, as is a pub stop in Youlgreave.  Lathkill Dale is highly recommended.

There’s a short slide show here.

Thursday 6 May 2010 – Hale Moss – A Circuit from Altrincham

Thursday evening saw Sue and I setting out from Altrincham station at 7.30pm on another evening walk, without Andrew on this occasion as he has absconded to Lochinver.

Turning right down Stamford New Road, we soon reached the footbridge by Barrington’s Hotel.  Over here, then down Oakfield Street, beyond which a ginnel leads into a large area of municipal parkland, including the sizeable King George V pond.

It’s pleasing to be able to walk straight into open countryside from the centre of a town, but we were soon having to concentrate hard to dodge the golf balls as we crossed an assortment of fairways, heading roughly south east along paths to the south of Timperley Brook.

This is Hale Moss and Heath, now a golf course and cultivated farm land dotted with ponds, spinneys and drainage ditches.  It was much larger until the late C19, when gorse and turf were cut by locals for use as fuels, and part of it was used as a race course.  One of the country’s earliest gasworks was built here in 1847, but only in the early C20 was the Moss and Heath largely drained and reclaimed, as the swampy stagnant pools had become a risk to both humans and grazing animals.

Paths led us past the north end of a garden centre and then on through Cheshire countryside to Davenport Green, where we joined Brooks Drive by an impressive mansion - ‘DGH’ – Davenport Green Hall – the oldest surviving secular building in the area.  It may occupy part of the site of the ‘lost’ village of Arleton, mentioned in the Domesday Book but abandoned at or soon after the time of the Black Death (1348).

Heading south towards Hale Barns, past exclusive residencies that remind me of a street of embassies in a place like Cairo, we reached the main Hale road and crossed it to bimble our way through the ginnels of Hale Barns, slowly wending our way towards the Bollin valley.

Our original plan was to go down to the Bollin before cutting back up to Hale, but given the fading light we enjoyed a more direct route via suburban streets and narrow ginnels, reaching the fleshpots of Hale village, where, on the evening of the election, various parties were in progress.  Judging by the array of vehicles parked in the streets, many costing more than the average house, these were not ‘election’ parties, perhaps more a sign of the end of the football season.  This is premier division footballers’ country.

Such local walks have much to commend them.  It’s good to explore local paths, albeit they sometimes do present an urban aspect.

We’ll be back for more, but here is Thursday’s route – 11km, 70 metres ascent, taking us 2.3 hours.

May in Timperley

It’s all a bit quiet here, just now.  My new role as a decorator leaves little time to get out and about, so readers can take a deep breath and wait for the TGO Challenge to start on Friday 14 May.

Meanwhile, the Winter Garden at Dunham Massey is currently a riot of colour.  Do get down there if you have a chance.

And here’s an early evening snap taken today in Lymm, where everything is greening up nicely, subject to some delicate splashes of orange.

Thursday 29 April 2010 – A Stalwarts’ Stroll around Tintwistle

After the previous night’s excitement of being transported back to the Drakensberg and the Cape with about 25 friendly denizens of Stockport Walking and Outdoor Group, we commenced our ‘summer evening’ walks with this easy stroll from Tintwistle around Valehouse and Rhodeswood Reservoirs.

After the usual battle to get through Mottram in Longdendale, Sue and I parked just beyond our nominated starting point, the Old Oak pub.  A text message arrived from Andrew:

“I’m in a panic – the pub’s gone!” (or similar).

I spotted him hopping around in the vicinity of the closed pub, desperate…

Just up the road, the Bulls Head provided much needed respite from the rain, good beer, and most importantly for Andrew – a loo.  The friendly locals were bemused when we told them our plans….

“What, in this rain?”

Already a quota of ‘would-be regulars’ who had specifically requested some Thursday evening walks, had wimped out.  They are ‘fair weather walkers’.

Meanwhile, the Three Stalwarts set off up to Holybank Quarry and onto open moorland above Valehouse Reservoir.  During our sojourn in the pub the rain had miraculously eased, and the skies brightened sufficiently for a record to be captured on the ‘phone (see above), the camera having been left at home.

As we rounded Rhodeswood Reservoir dusk overtook us, and in light rain there was no sign of last night’s full moon.  A quiet lane (somehow I missed the Trans Pennine Trail) led us through a farm to a bridge high above the planned Trail.  Paths through fields took us easily to Padfield and back to the cars, after a sociable 10km, 315 metres ascent and 2 hours 20 minutes, during which time Sue learnt more about the forthcoming election issues from Andrew than she’d previously known about politics in her entire life.  Gripping stuff!

Here’s the (not entirely as planned) route that we took.

Walking in South Africa, and Tintwistle

Whilst I’ve been away enjoying a Caledonian Trail, Sue has been dusting off a few slides for our talk to Stockport Walking Group on Wednesday evening (28 April).  It’s at 8 pm at Hazel Grove Civic Centre, should anyone else care to come along.

On Thursday we have our first ‘daylight’ evening walk – starting at 7.30 pm from the Old Oak in Tintwistle.  All are welcome, as always.

Attended by nearly 30 people – very enjoyable.

Saturday 24 April 2010 - Markus's Caledonian Trail - Day 11 - Annat to Fort Augustus

My fears were unfounded. A couple of j-cloths to empty every three or four hours hardly constitutes a disturbed night's sleep. The Phreerunner's seepage was minimal. Everything that wasn't already rain affected remained dry.

By contrast, Markus described his night in the TN Laser Competition as 'horrendous'. His new tent doesn't seem to have been designed for wet and windy Scottish nights, and his gear is soggy from condensation. He also worried that the river (pictured - this morning - Markus must be a 'worrier' as well as a light sleeper!)) would burst its banks (that didn't occur to me).

The rain stopped before we got up. My tent dried out, Markus's didn't. We started walking at 9am as usual, along the pleasant tracks of Glen Roy and Glen Turret. After a brief encounter with the ghost of an erstwhile TGO Challenger we embarked up the pathless slopes of Teanga Mhor. Markus said he'd never backpacked up such a steep slope. I said he must have chosen some pretty poncey routes in the past. It was warmer than of late. T-shirt weather! Though sadly a greyish haze enveloped the high snow laden peaks that surrounded us.

We made it to the top, across peat haggs that I found more taxing than the initial steep grassy slope. The peak was called. Carn na Larach (745 metres). There was nobody else there. It's an exclusive spot!

More haggs and an exceptionally boggy track led us to Glenbuck Bothy. I'm not a fan of bothies, but this one was spacious and spotless, if colder inside than outside. An empty pair of Crocs lay on the hearth. Lord Elpus? Did he make it this far?

Easy paths led down to the Caledonian Canal, where I actually applied sun tan cream for the first time on this trip. Swallows and Pied Wagtails replaced the Curlews and Meadow Pipits that we'd got used to in the mountains.

At Cullochy Lock the keeper was letting a boat through. "That's 12 today" he said, adding that he expected to log over 1000 boats during July and August.

Two hours later, after encountering the first backpackers seen by Markus on his entire trip (they were doing the Great Glen Way), we reached Fort Augustus. It was 5pm, after 24 km, 660 metres ascent, and 8 hours' walking. Plenty of time to set up camp at the new campsite (a lovely flat lawn), freshen up, and enjoy a celebratory meal at The Bothy restaurant.

That ends my 'mobile' postings for the time being, as I have to return home after this most enjoyable six day stint with Markus, whose progress you can continue to follow via the link from the home page of www.topwalks.com.

Will he get to Cape Wrath? He's nearly half way. But quite tired...

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Wh* St*l* My S*f*?

The disemvoweled voice of the ghost of Alan Sloman wafted maltily across the landscape.

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Friday 23 April 2010 - Markus's Caledonian Trail - Day 10 - Lochan na h-Earba to Annat

The wind finally subsided during the night. It was replaced by a soggy blanket that hovered over us. We woke to drippy trees and surprisingly chirpy birds.

From our 360 metre camp, whilst Binnein Shuas was clear (pictured), there was fresh snow from about 500 metres, and thick cloud over the bits of Creag Meagaidh that we could see. So the Foul Weather Alternative (FWA) was the obvious choice of route for today. A shame, but Markus is well aware that Creag Meagaidh is in the heart of TGO Challenge country, and perhaps he will return to gain the satisfaction of walking the entire ridge.

We were off again at 9, in waterproofs that stayed on all day. Dawn to dusk rain, and beyond. Dreich, I think some Scots describe days like today.

After an hour along a good track we reached last night's planned camp site. A magnificent spot by a beach at the head of Lochan na h-Earba (which actually seems to be two sizable lochs) - it would have been a bit breezy last night.

We pressed on down to the main road, pausing under some trees to take advantage of a mobile phone signal. The weather forecast confirmed the wisdom of our FWA route.

After a less than pleasant 6km along the road, we lunched at a wet picnic bench before starting the long ascent to the cairned col that separates Beinn a' Chaorainn from Beinn Teallach. After joking with two blokes descending the former (they very kindly offered us a lift to Fort Augustus), we continued on up this boggy ascent - only about 300 metres height gain, but it's hard won.

By the time we reached the cairn it was 3.40. Ahead of us was the trackless descent to join a thin path to Glen Roy.

We made it down to this sheltered riverside spot (NN 357 917) just before Annat, by 6.30. I'm partly responsible for the long time to cover a short distance as I faltered for some time at a river crossing. It looked awkward for Crocs due to depth and current issues. The way to cross was to keep the boots on and move quickly over submerged rocks with the aid of walking poles. One slip and you would be soaked. Dally on the rocks and the water would certainly fill your boots. I didn't want wet feet. I had no spare socks. Markus was using them as gloves. I eventually made it across,

I've had enough now, after another lovely meal it's time for bed. It'll be a disturbed night as, whilst condensation free, the old tent does 'seep' a little in a downpour!

It has been a Wet Day. Sorting the photos won't be difficult. There are two.

We walked 29 km, with 620 metres ascent, in 9.5 hours, to reach this stony but sheltered riverside camp at 250 metres.

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Thursday 22 April 2010 - Markus's Caledonian Trail - Day 9 - Dalwhinnie to Lochan na h-Earba

We are residents of 'Knipe Copse' at NN 495 845, by the wave lapped shore of Lochan na h-Earba. Why Markus has thus named this Des Res I don't know, but hey - it's his route, and his choice to stop about 5km short of his planned camping spot at the head of the lochan, which is really quite a sizable loch.
The rain is pattering against the tent, so it was perhaps a wise move to halt at 5.15.

It has been another good day. We were launched in splendid fashion by an excellent Scottish breakfast ("that's just one sausage, Full English is two" [HA!]) provided in the immaculate breakfast room of Eagle View Guest House. All guests breakfast around one large table - I like such places.

A dash to the bus stop, and a chat with a lady who confirmed that none of my (English) pensioner's concessions would apply in Scotland, preceded the 12 mile ride (£6.90!) back to Dalwhinnie.

So much for devolution. This Scottish lady has the same problem in England.

Markus, who had failed to pack his rucksack at the B+B, then enjoyed a 15 minute faff in the comfort of the bus shelter. He was laden with the ballast of new provisions today. So was I, but I've left the food mountain at the B+B for collection on Sunday, so my pack is lighter than when I started out on Monday.

The 10 o' clock departure was an hour later than usual. Not really a problem, we agreed as we sauntered past the Dalwhinnie Inn, which now claims to be opening on 3 May. The date changes to some random date in the future every time I pass the place. Markus had originally booked it for last night, and had struggled to get a refund when he discovered it was closed.

Leaving the road, we didn't have the bottle to venture along the old route of the Drovers Track through Allt an t-Sluic. Dogs barked wildly as we passed down the waymarked diversion beyond an angry red flag. Not good.

All that was soon left far behind, and we haven't seen a soul since leaving Dalwhinnie. Meall nan Eagan shone brightly in the sun (pictured, with Markus bottom right), before another shower arrived. We had a few of them today. I was reminded of the rough nature of that hill as we passed through the narrow defile that leads to Lochan na Doire-uaine, a forbidding place surrounded by lumpy tussocks and edged by the skeleton-like bleached corpses of prehistoric trees.

We had emerged from the defile to fine views of Geal Charn, ahead, and of the entire Creag Meagaidh ridge. Markus was impressed. He had never seen it laden with snow.

A little further on we lunched under a cold shower. Bad timing. Then it was on to increasingly sound Land Rover tracks, including one of motorway proportions, for the rest of the afternoon. We disturbed four young stags - the smallest of many herds of deer that we've seen over the past few days. A chorus of curlews joined that of the ubiquitous golden plover today, and lapwings flapped lazily over the lower slopes.

Our camp, reached in 7.25 hours after our 23 km trek with ascent of 420 metres, has a fine view of a very interesting hill, Binnein Shuas (746 metres). It looks impregnable from here.

Well, it did before it went dark.

In the meantime I've enjoyed the culinary delights of Tesco's best:

Mulligatawny soup
Pasta with mushroom and chicken flavour sauce, with added
Seared tuna fillets in a sweet marinade of red chillies, coriander and lemongrass
Banana flavoured Angel Delight
Hot chocolate

Markus, meanwhile, claims to have enjoyed his Norwegian cod and mash - all apparently rehydrated from the same packet!

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Wednesday 21 April 2010 - Markus's Caledonian Trail - Day 8 - Allt Feith Gharuiareagan to Dalwhinnie

Showering tonight, I was puzzled to look down at sunburnt legs. Were they really mine?

Ah yes - from the North Yorks Moors.

Some time ago.

Today we woke to frozen water bottles and a fairly wintry scene. Winter gear stayed on all the way over two Munros, Beinn Udlamain and A' Mharconaich, and down to Balsporran Cottages. We met just two people (none yesterday), on the broad snowy ridge separating the Munros.

"Is it any less windy ahead?" they asked, warning us of strong winds ahead in our direction. It actually became calmer, and we were jealous that they had the wind behind them.

Conditions today were dry and firm, even where it may normally be very boggy. We spent several hours tramping across what I pictured as an Arctic tundra landscape (pictured above - with Markus demonstrating his superior fitness), with stunted frozen heather scraping a living off a bed of shale.

A short cut meant that we just got a view of Loch Monaidh rather than camping next to it as planned. It looked boggy from a distance; perhaps we chose wisely last night.

Then a long battle with the keen north wind took us over various summits to the west of Drumochter before leading us down towards the A9 and Dalwhinnie.

We lunched in calmer conditions on the lower slopes. My tinned fish blew away from the spork.

An easy river crossing led to Balsporran Cottages and the cycle track that runs beside the A9. We zoomed along here to reach a bus stop in time for the 15.59 to Newtonmore. We'd covered 19 km, with 760 metres ascent, in somewhat less than 7 hours.

Eagle View Guest House is very comfortable, and the Glen Hotel next door has provided succour by way of food and beer. Our food parcels/mountains are intact and our batteries are re-charging (or will be when I've finished this).

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Tuesday 20 April 2010 - Markus's Caledonian Trail - Day 7 - Glen Sassunn to Allt Feith Gharuiareagan

After settling down at 9.30 pm, I slept well again, and was woken only by a shot blasting machine and a full bladder at 2.30am. Thank goodness for the en-suite. The shot blasting had kept Markus awake until 2.30, but he seemed quite chirpy today and even composed a blog posting for me whilst we brewed up in Duinish Bothy.

Markus's tent fabric is 'flappier' than the thick single skin of goretex that I prefer despite the extra weight, so it was probably quite noisy in there. Tonight we both have the crashing of Petter Falls, where Allt Feith Gharuiareagan pours into the outflow from Loch Monaidh, to lull us to sleep (or in Markus's case, keep him awake).

After a lie in until 7.30, the dynamic duo had packed up and were off down the hill by 9 o' clock. It was a good track on a cold morning with fine views.

After passing a lovely lawn full of daffodils at Innerhadden, we fancied stopping for a coffee at Kinloch Rannoch. Then, after Markus had raided the local store, he remembered that the hotel was not 'backpacker friendly'. 'Under New Management' proclaimed a large sign outside the Dunalastair Hotel. We entered; the interior was even more opulent than the exterior. "Sloman country" muttered Markus, and asked for breakfast.

All except Markus agreed that 10.30 was a little late for breakfast.

"Will a piece of toast, with perhaps a bit of bacon be ok", asked the waitress.

A few minutes later, after they had killed the pig, its meaty bits arrived, sandwiched between the best part of a loaf of bread. We didn't need to eat again until we reached camp. My food mountain of uneaten supplies is growing steadily.

"So the new owners don't mind grubby backpackers?" I tested the waitress. "Not at all" responded the waitress "I AM the new owner!"

It turns out that TGO Challengers will be most welcome here in May, either calling in for refreshments, or staying in one of their 28 rooms. It is a posh hotel, though, and is priced accordingly - B+B from £120, B+B+Dinner from £180. I didn't ask about camping.

After an hour or so in the hotel lounge's comfy armchairs earwiging the witterings of a conference breakout group (oh, the memories!) we felt obliged to continue.

Waves were breaking on the eastern shore of Loch Rannoch, but the strong, icy wind was forecast to subside, and the tops were clear, so there seemed no good reason to adopt a Foul Weather Alternative.

We headed on up the elderly Land Rover Track that leads to Loch Garry and the A9, pausing frequently to admire the views in the crisp light. The prominent prow of Schiehallion was a highlight.

Soon after 1pm the angry roar of two RAF jets appeared to declare UK airspace open for business after a five day shut down (I never did get a photo of the 'All Scottish Airports Closed - Volcanic Ash' sign on the M74 gantrys), though we still haven't seen any commercial planes and the red sunset did indicate high level air pollution...

Loch Garry came into view (pictured), as did a plethora of wildlife - mountain hares, a huge herd of deer, wheatears, chaffinches, golden plover, black grouse, and many more.

Duinish bothy provided a brief respite from the icy headwind, before we left the main track and headed up towards Loch Monaidh along a boggy, haggy rudimentary LRT beside Allt Shallainn.

It was hard going.

Imagine our delight when we turned into the valley that houses the outflow from Loch Monaidh to find a Rivendell. The river trundles down a wide canyon, with flat grassy banks on either side where the water hasn't dredged its way into the mountainside. It was cold, with sleety showers, so we halted here, opposite the waterfall named after my companion, in this secret wonderland (for backpackers, anyway) rather than continue to our planned destination. We can easily pick up the time tomorrow.

The sun came out and we have enjoyed a most pleasant evening here at about 580 metres, after a day of 24 km and 580 metres of ascent, taking 8 hours including two long stops..

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Duinish Bothy and The Ghost of Mike Knipe

Safely reached here at 3pm on 20 April.

We were shocked to find the lifeless form of a Pie Man already in situ.

For once in his life, the Pie Man did not appear to be yearning for Kylie!

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Monday 19 April 2010 - Markus's Caledonian Trail - Day 6 - Aberfeldy to Glen Sassunn

We are now (7.30pm) camped at about 550 metres at NN 652 540, as planned. We are on schedule. It's snowing. We can hear no aircraft.

We awoke this morning to snow at 200 metres and the generous offer of coffee from our 'Trail Daddy'. Markus had slept better than previously whilst I had impersonated a log.

The rain had ceased by the time we set off at 8.30 on a 10 km road walk to Keltneyburn. We missed a trick here. Or should that read 'track'? There's a new riverside path from Aberfeldy's fine Tay Bridge to Kenmore, which you can exit near Keltneyburn. We should have taken it.

Anyway, after finally leaving the road we enjoyed a brew then set off up easy slopes. Tracks took us up to 500 metres or so, after which it was a yomp over snow covered heather.

After lunch in a sheltered spot with views of Schiehallion between cool showers, we laboured on up to Meall Liath and Carn Mairg, at 1042 metres our high point of the day. Two people seen from afar had gone by the time we arrived via a steep bank of snow. We saw no other hillwalkers today.

Time was getting on, so we strolled along the ridge for a while with a keen NW wind in our faces and soft snow into which we both plunged from time to time.

There were both deer and mountain hares high on the hill, so perhaps spring isn't so far away?

By the time we'd descended from Meall a' Bharr, Markus's left leg - injured on a steep descent in Glen Almond - was troubling him, so he took a short cut down to Glen Sassunn in increasingly gloomy weather. Meanwhile, I plodded up the final hill of the day, Meal Garbh (968 metres), catching some final rays of sun that somehow managed to negotiate their way through the leaden clouds, before descending carefully past agitated Golden Plovers into the glen to join Markus here (pictured) just as he had finished assembling the rather flimsy looking Terra Nova Laser Competition tent that he'd bought a few days earlier in Blackford. It's very light - part of the reason that he's carrying 13kg compared to my 16kg. I have too much food.

Today's 28km and 1365 metres ascent (just a bit less for Markus) took 10.25 hours (half an hour less for M) - over an hour quicker than my estimate.

Snow continues to blast the tent as I try to arrange things in the dark to secure maximum insulation and comfort for the back I ricked packing up this morning.

And so, it's goodnight from Markus and me in Glen Sassunn.

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