The main purpose of this blog is to keep in touch with friends and family, and maybe entertain others with common interests, particularly in relation to the outdoors. We hope you enjoy it, and your comments are valued....
Sue and Martin in Mallorca 2019
On the Archduke's Path in Mallorca
Saturday, 18 June 2011
A Dales High Way - Day 8 - Newbiggin-on-Lune to Appleby-in-Westmorland
21km, 300 metres ascent, 5.7hrs incl stops.
Weather: rainy all morning, overcast afternoon with more rain later.
Gayle - good to hear from you. The Phreerunner effect (to the uninitiated this is my unswerving avoidance of bad weather) is not dead, it's just on holiday. Wait and see, and don't let the forecast inhibit your travails!
Phil - Hugh does indeed lead Coast to Coast walks, as on his present trip for Wilderness Travel, on which a party of North Americans is walking snippets of a C2C route on a 'day walk' basis.
Last night's meal at the Black Swan was very good - it's clearly a very successful operation down there. The 'Three Lads' turned up, with a fourth member of their party - 'slim Paul' - who has been curiously transparent until now.
The place was humming, but some mysteries remain... Who IS Fred, how does he manage to have such a woman on his arm, and why did the other two members of their party fail to show? We'll never know.
Today, to be brief, we finished the route to Appleby, mostly in the rain. It was a wet day in the Dales.
An easy start led through pleasant countryside past soggy sheep to a fine but very slippery limestone pavement on Great Kinmond. We slithered down past pretty orchids and primroses, and through a 'working farm' (very scruffy, in need of proper 'work') to Great Asby, where we paused in a bus shelter full of newspapers for the locals to collect. The 'Three Lads' (now a foursome) turned up and went to the pub. Two blokes on the Westmoreland Way joined us.
We decided to carry on to the pub at Hoff.
Andrew banged his head and had to sit on a wall (pictured) to recuperate. The path to Hoff was wet and muddy.
The pub at Hoff was closed, so we lunched on the car park. The New Inn is deceased, for the time being - there's a planning application.*
Not far now to Appleby, but the route was fraught with mud and frisky cows. We made it, and celebrated with cream teas in a friendly café - Taste of Eden.
The castle is shut - since 2004.
Now we are waiting for the train home.
I'll do an overview posting with links to proper photos in due course.
Hope you enjoyed this little journey.
Bye for now.
* October 2011 update: The pub at Hoff has re-opened according to Ethan.
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Friday, 17 June 2011
A Dales High Way - Day 7 - Sedbergh to Newbiggin-on-Lune (Brownber Hall)
Weather: cloudy morning turning to drizzle for a couple of hours from 12 to 2, then sunny periods.
Chris, if you email me via the 'contact us' button on www.topwalks.com I'll let you know when I've put a suitable 'label' on these blog postings to facilitate a meaningful link from your website.
Good to hear from you, Heather. We had an excellent meal at the Craven Arms, despite Gary's 'Vegetarian Incident' - he's a bit prone to such Incidents, so I wouldn't be concerned, though you may be wise to supplement your tasty meal with a vegetable side dish! And we visited your wedding venue! Wow!
Thanks also for your comment, Roger and Jacky. We hope the Garden Party doesn't turn out too soggy, and we look forward to seeing you again soon. John Hillaby's route through Britain? - an ambitious project - now where's that map?
We were John and Sue's only guests at Holmecroft. We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and a chat with them both, before setting off to replenish our luncheon supplies at the Spar shop in the main street. Soon a new Spar will open opposite the entrance to The School, which may change the whole feel of the place.
The lane above the high street car park yields several opportunities for false starts through suburban streets, but some clever (boring?) person has placed 'To the Fell' signs that no doubt discourage navigationally challenged visitors from heading up to dead ends.
The Swifts of Sedbergh were doing their best to dispose of the town's unwary insects as we progressed above the roof tops beside the rising waters of Settlebeck Gill.
The 'Three Lads' who are walking this same route zoomed past - Peter (the boss), Paul (springy legs) and Kev (sunburnt legs! [How?]) - all from Sheffield, on a regular sort of trip; it was the Coast to Coast last year.
A slow plod took me over Arant Haw whilst the others went around it, then on over Calders to our 676 metre high point of the day, The Calf. There was a cold wind at our backs; windproof jackets were donned, and in my case gloves - on 17 June!
It was nearly noon. The sky started to leak though the cloud remained high. We made our way through the drizzle along a pleasantly high and cloud free ridge, over Hazelgill Knott and West Fell. The cloud remained high despite the drizzle, but the lunchtime view down the Langdale valley (pictured - badly, but that's how it was) was rather muted on this dull day. However, the forecast downpour failed to materialise - we are happy about that - and as we descended into Bowderdale the mizzle evaporated and we suddenly found ourselves perspiring under a weak sun.
We passed a pair of oyster catchers nesting on a wall, with goldfinches enjoying the nearby gorse, and hedgerows lined with meadow cranesbill and lady's mantle.
A wet field then a narrow lane led to Brownber Hall, where Hilary and Andrew have been the owners of the 150 year old house for just six months. A lovely place, most appropriate for our last B&B of this trip. It's full tonight, with 18 guests, including eight Americans and their three leaders, one of whom is Hugh Westacott, whose writing in The Great Outdoors magazine I remember well. "You must be very old if you remember those" quipped Hugh.
"Hello Peter" - I surprised a man otherwise known as "Mr Grumpy". One of the Americans' leaders is none other than Pete Goddard, vetter and veteran of 22 TGO Challenge walks across Scotland. Sadly he failed to finish this year and is still trying to nurse himself back to health. We all wish him well.
There's no local eating place, and Hilary isn't cooking tonight, so we have a lift from Andrew to the Black Swan in Ravenstonedale, on which I'll report back tomorrow.
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Thursday, 16 June 2011
A Dales High Way - Day 6 - Chapel-le-Dale to Sedbergh (Holmecroft B&B)
Weather: emerging from an early heavy shower, a pleasant, cool day with sunny periods.
No of comments from guide book authors: 1 - great to hear from you, Chris, and I'm quite happy for you to post links to these pages. We have found both the Route Guide and the Companion to be helpful and informative, as is the website; the only significant omission we've noticed is the Craven Lime Works between Langcliffe and Stainforth.
We finally parted company with Gary, who (thanks for your message) set off home, Jacky - who was called away on urgent business, and Roger - who kindly gave us a lift back to the Hill Inn.
R+J are involved in a second hand book sale in Giggleswick on Saturday. Their garage is currently home to several boxes of books. On the top was what looked like a 1939 first edition Observers Book of Birds. Worth more than the expected 50p?
The downpour had just about ended by the time we set off from the Hill Inn, but waterproofs were donned and despite his earlier intentions Andrew announced that he would be walking around and not over Whernside. So we strolled slowly down to the village, up to Eller Beck past some 'art' (the 'Boggard' of Hurtle Pot), and on to Broadrake, where I took high road and Andrew followed the other three lads who were on the Dales High Way, along the low route that skirts around Whernside's eastern flanks.
[I'm a little puzzled that the authors of this 'High Way' decided to designate the route over Whernside as an 'alternative', preferring the 'skirting around' option for their principal choice.]
By now the sky had cleared and the summit ridge of Whernside was glinting in the sunshine. I plodded slowly up the steep staircase of recently laid paving slabs, with great views down to the Ribblehead viaduct and the neighbouring hills. Approaching the summit, a team of stone-wallers was busy putting the finishing touches to a repaired wall.
I'd not expected to find the summit alive with a mass of small children searching for geocaches! They were having great fun.
Heading off to the north, past Whernside Tarns, the high pitched chatter of small children was replaced by calls from wheeling peewits and the sweet songs of skylarks.
Boot of the Wold was deserted when I reached it, so I had just a young wheatear for company for a pleasant half hour in a sheltered spot whilst I waited for Andrew. He finally came into view for about ten minutes before reaching and passing me. Sitting right next to the track, I must have been well camouflaged!
Lunch was taken in a grassy glade shortly before reaching a stretch of tarmac past a Methodist Chapel, and Dent was reached via the Dales Way path beside the River Dee in Dentdale, the banks of which were filled with generous portions of wild flowers.
It was warm down there, so a pause for café rehydration was required before embarking on our onward journey through lovely meadows (pictured) to Barth Bridge, one parapet of which was being totally reconstructed.
A steep, hot pull up to Lunds Farm was punctuated by a long chat with a farmer who thought this whole walk was beyond the capability of any normal person, and he did also stress that he thought we may be normal. Andrew wandered off, feeling exhausted, whilst I tried to point out to the farmer the defects in his reasoning, citing Andrew as proof. The farmer looked less than convinced!
By and by we reached the 'school' town of Sedbergh, and walked slowly past the town on the shortest route I could come up with, eventually emerging on the main road opposite our comfortable and quiet B&B, where John and Sue are our friendly hosts.
The Red Lion provided adequate sustenance at a good price, and we adjourned to watch 'the teachers' thrash each other at cricket on one of Sedbergh School's excellent pitches, equipped with a fine club house and all the latest gizmos including a remote controlled electronic scoreboard.
PS - Chris, we'll try not to get lost!!
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Wednesday, 15 June 2011
A Dales High Way - Day 5 - Giggleswick to Chapel-le-Dale
Weather: heavily overcast, with a light shower in the afternoon.
We decided to start from R+J's house in Giggleswick, rather than return to Stainforth by car. This enabled Roger and me to enjoy the riverside path to Stainforth Force, before heading off below Smearset Scar to reach the excellent tea shop at Feizor. Andrew, Jacky and Gary had already reached that fleshpot, as they had chosen a more direct route via Giggleswick Scar. Three other Dales High Way walkers were encountered - the first of the trip, and the reason why we couldn't get a room at the Hill Inn tonight.
A delightful route, despite the dour weather, led through Wharfe and past Wash Dub (an old sheep dip site) to Crummack, and on to join the Three Peaks route above Sulber Nick.
We lunched here and saw a runner, the first of many folk we assumed were taking in Ingleborough, Whernside and Pen-y-ghent in a day.
The good path then delivered us past Simon Fell to the summit of Ingleborough, just a few metres below the cloud base. It was cool, but we took time to explore both the ancient hill-fort site and the derelict remains of a Hospice tower, built and demolished in 1830.
It started to rain. In light cloud we descended the slippery steps down towards Chapel-le-Dale and the Hill Inn. Numerous '3 Peaks' walkers were met en route, as well as a minibus full of cavers returning from Great Douk Cave or one of the many other local caves and potholes.
The rain stopped and we finished our day in brighter weather before adjourning to the Hill and its display of sugary creations. Then we returned to Giggleswick. This evening we paid a meat eating visit to the nearby Craven Arms, where everyone was eventually satisfied. It's quite a posh place, but not really set up for vegetarians, as demonstated by Gary "I may be small, but this portion wouldn't satisfy a midget half my size!"
I neglected to take any photos with the phone until on the walk home tonight, when the sunset (pictured, with sheep) was rather colourful though I failed to capture the whistling swifts on camera...
Giggleswick is a lovely village dominated by its public school for 400 pupils. It has pleasant streets with old properties like those also shown above.
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
A Dales High Way - Day 4 - Malham to Stainforth
Weather: fine and sunny
Phil - thanks for your comment, if you want to wild camp this route it would be quite possible, and there are also campsites along the way. The main reason for our mode of accommodation on this trip is the fact that my good friend Andrew has never and will never backpack with a tent. That doesn't inhibit his desire for this sort of excursion, the enjoyment of which can be enhanced by meeting friends along the way.
Andrew's TV research, which is extensive, revealed an 'interesting programme' last night about the chandeliers at the Buck Inn that were made by the 'glamorous (former tax accountant) blacksmith' across the road. It all seems a bit unlikely, but we did hear hammering from the smithy. We missed the programme, as we were seated under one of said chandeliers, in the Buck's dining area that was mercifully TV free!
A long wait for breakfast didn't hinder our 9.30 rendezvous with Roger and Jacky in the car park at Malham, and we were soon on our way to the Cove (pictured), past grey and pied wagtails, goldfinches and various other feathered fledglings.
We could see the peregrine falcons from below, but having made our way across the upper lip of the Cove we found ourselves observing the three youngsters from just a few metres away. Trevor and another (resident?) photographer explained that they had fledged (left the nest) yesterday and that they wouldn't be perched on the nearby ledge for very long before they started to fly around whilst receiving up to two months of post-fledging training from their parents. Even then, they only stand a 40% chance of making it through the first winter.
We were engrossed for nearly an hour before moving on up Ing Scar, across Cove Road, and up to the summit of Kirkby Fell. On this lovely summer's day the views ranged far and wide, from Ilkley Moor to the SE to Whernside and other hills to our north, with Ingleborough and Pen-y-ghent also prominent from around here.
A lone figure heralded our arrival on the next summit, our highest to date, Rye Loaf Hill (547 metres). Gary had been waiting for some time with his newspaper, watching our slow progress that had included a pause to rebuild a stone wall (Roger being an expert in this department). The redness of his visage indicated that he may have been there for a very long time, or has he taken to the bottle? He claimed his recent retirement was to blame...
We diverted from the planned route to admire Victoria Cave, the site of a prolonged excavation in the 1870s. Lots of animal remains up to 120,000 years old were found, including many species now found in Africa, together with tools that carbon dating shows are up to 11,000 years old.
Fascinating, but muddy with a dark interior, and just one of forty or so similar caves found in this area.
The walk to Stainforth via Langcliffe was equally interesting, if a little off our planned route beside the River Ribble. Instead, we explored the site of the Craven Lime Works to the east of the river and railway. It's not referred to in our guide book but is as unmissable as it is unheralded. Its dominant feature is the massive Hoffman Kiln built in 1873. This features 22 individual burning chambers around which you can now walk underground. We also scrambled up the steep sides to admire the kiln from above. Wild strawberries and ox-eye daisies are now rampant on the disused exterior. Impressive and fascinating.
Some essential car shuffling meant that we sadly missed out on a spell in the Craven Heifer's beer garden, but we were nevertheless soon installed in Roger and Jacky's rather more exclusive beer garden in Giggleswick. Thank you R+J for your great hospitality and wonderful food and for putting up our unexpected additional companion, Gary, who was expecting to camp.
A brilliant day.
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Monday, 13 June 2011
A Dales High Way - Day 3 - Skipton to Malham(Beck Hall)
Weather: starting as heavily overcast as is possible without it actually raining, then a bit of drizzly rain that had passed over by lunch time, but our jackets stayed on to combat the cool NW breeze. By mid afternoon we got sunny periods, but it remained cool.
Thanks for your messages and comments.
Alan - I'm pleased to hear you enjoyed your trip to Settle; I think we missed most of the rain yesterday - we just got a bit of drizzle.
Phil - ('Glamping' haha?) this is a walk from Saltaire to Appleby on which we are carrying all that we need (apart from day to day purchases), and as such would probably be regarded by many as a backpacking trip. I'm not sure of the relevance of the mode of accommodation, which will not all be 'B&B'!
Geoff - 'Deepest Cheshire' is a regular venue for our evening walks - feel free to join us in the future.
Back to today. An overcast morning with rain in the air didn't deter us from stashing our waterproofs and setting off, after a fine (well, superb - a Country House Hotel couldn't have done better) Chinthurst breakfast, in search of our next meal.
Greggs Bakery and a fruit and veg stall provided the necessaries, and off we set towards the pointy peak of Sharp Haw. On the way the drizzle kept starting and stopping, so eventually we gave in and left our waterproof jackets on all morning.
The views were fine, but would have excelled on a bright sunny day. After slithering down to Flasby we bumped into two separate walking parties - the only ones seen until we reached Malhamdale.
The valley walk to Hetton was delightful, and we lunched on a bench on the smallest village green we had seen for some time. The Angel Inn was our next port of call - a village pub that is trying to survive by expanding its business and going up market whilst retaining local congregation.
A long, straight lane imaginatively named 'Moor Lane' rose slowly before dipping down to the sad looking half full Winterburn Reservoir. Then the well constructed path continued relentlessly up Winterburn Moor, eventually reaching our high point to date, The Weets (414 metres), from where the limestone pavements of the Malham area were arrayed before us. The summit of Kirkby Fell dominated the view above Malham.
An easy walk down the road to Gordale Bridge was followed by a stroll over slithery limestone, past the pleasant waterfall known as Janet's Foss (pictured), where Sue and others 'skinny dipped' on her birthday weekend one cold February day, and along a beckside path lined with buttercup meadows, leading to the small village of Malham at around 3.30.
We were soon installed at Beck Hall, where a block corporate bonding booking for NHBC's training managers has relegated us to a room with a four poster bed and a small single bed. It's a satisfactorily large room, though. The café here is shut on Mondays, so we tottered off to the nearby Old Barn Café for a cream tea fix.
The Buck Inn has subsequently fed and watered us. We are feeling suitably bloated and are looking forward to an even shorter, but more sociable, day than usual tomorrow, for an amble over to Stainforth that will probably only take us until early afternoon to complete. But it will be sociable.
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Sunday, 12 June 2011
A Dales High Way - Day 2 - Ilkley to Skipton (Chinthurst B&B)
Weather: fine morning, steadily clouding over, maturing into a drizzly afternoon.
After a bright start, today's weather went slowly downhill. But we can hardly complain, we reached Spencer's Café Bistro in Skipton soon after 2pm and took full advantage of their excellent tea and cakes (pictured).
This morning we headed back along the path to the south of the houses of Ilkley, continuing easily past the Swastika Stone, where a Victorian replica has been carved on a stone in front of the large boulder which houses the faint original markings from the Iron Age.
As we progressed gently up to Addingham High Moor we passed the sites of several more stones with cup and ring markings, but our main distraction was the constant bubbling trill of the resident curlews.
Shortly after Airedale came into view we headed north off the moor towards Addingham Moorside and in the general direction of Wharfedale. However, this 'High' route that we are walking eschews the delights (and crowds) of Wharfedale in favour of a direct line to Skipton by way of Moor Lane and a pathway known as 'The Street' and locally referred to as 'The Roman Road'. Despite official documents supporting that description that date back to the 19th century, there is no clear archaeological evidence to support the wide belief that our path follows the line of a Roman Road linking Ilkley with Elslack, near Skipton.
With rain looking imminent, we lunched just in time to avoid getting our butties wet, but we did leave our perch fully clad in waterproofs.
Whilst the views became muted by the drizzly weather, it was a very pleasant path across the tops and then down past an old toll house to the centre of Skipton and the comforts of the tea shop.
With plenty of time on our hands we decided to visit Skipton Castle, the site of a wooden fort from soon after 1090, which was replaced by a castle that passed to the Clifford family in 1310 and was their main residence for over 300 years. It's a magnificent and truly historic building, remarkably complete, and a pleasure to visit. As Andrew commented, shouldn't we be more appreciative of such places, especially when you consider that they pre-date sites like Macchu Picchu by several hundred years?
We had already learnt in the café that Chinthurst B&B is the best in Skipton, and given the friendly reception and our large, comfortable room, we can't disagree with that. Tonight's restaurant, Aagrar, has to be the best Kashmiri restaurant in Skipton. We've enjoyed a superb meal there, as has the owner of Aston Martin reg no R5OEL (think about it!).
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Saturday, 11 June 2011
A Dales High Way - Day 1 - Saltaire to Ilkley (Craiglands Hotel)
Weather: fine, with sunny periods and a brisk SW breeze on higher ground.
Another day, another trip.
Andrew (aka Notchy) and I have set off on a 'luxury' backpacking trip from Saltaire to Appleby in eight days. We are following a route devised in 2007 by Saltaire residents, Chris and Tony Grogan.
Full details can be found at www.daleshighway.org.uk
A successful rendezvous at Manchester Piccadilly, followed by an hour and a half's £7 worth of efficient rail travel saw us in Saltaire by soon after noon.
We spent a while exploring the industrial village built by Titus Salt in the mid 19th century, a prime example of 'Victorian philanthropic paternalism'.
By 1892 Salt had been dead for 14 years and his company had gone into liquidation. It wasn't until the 1980s, when another visionary, Jonathan Silver, bought the old mill and introduced an interesting mix of uses, that a turn around started. The railway station reopened and the old mill cottages became desirable for young commuters. New shops, bars and cafés appeared and Saltaire was once again booming.
We can confirm that it remains a smart, vibrant place to this day - certainly that was the impression we gained whilst lunching at Vicars Cafe Bistro, near Victoria Hall, the venue for a recent Antiques Roadshow.
But we were here for a walk, and a very pleasant afternoon's stroll it was too, basically directly north to Ilkley. I took diversions to take in Hope Hill, as well as Ilkley Moor's 402 metre summit, and the Thimble Stones, but even those excursions involved little extra effort and we arrived conveniently outside our hotel directly from a footpath above the town.
It was good to see plenty of curlew today, after noting their scarcity during my recent walk across Scotland. Lapwings, skylarks, meadow pipits and a sparrowhawk were also very much in evidence, but there were no oyster catchers, and there seemed to be fewer birds than when I passed along a very similar route two years ago.
Whilst there was no sign of any moisture on the surface of the moors, numerous piles of paving slabs were strewn across the summit of Ilkley Moor, awaiting a path construction team, indicating that the moor is unusually dry just now!
We encountered a good smattering of walkers, runners and mountain bikers, including a man in a kilt and some scout leaders on Ilkley Moor who kindly took the above photo.
Below the spa baths at White Wells, which date from 1703, lies the prosperous town of Ilkley, where we later savoured the delights of its Piccolino restaurant. However, above White Wells, a 3500 year old stone circle, the Twelve Apostles, stood proud alongside our route, and Rombalds Moor sports numerous examples of prehistoric rock art dating from over 3000 years ago. Most of the 350 examples are off today's beaten tracks, but I did come across a couple of the sites as I descended from the moor towards Ilkley.
That's all for now. We are hoping for another fine day tomorrow.
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Thursday 9 June 2011 – Deepest Cheshire
In view of the formidable sound of this evening stroll:
“An adventure with Notchy - Deepest Cheshire - starting at 7.30 pm from The Egerton Arms, Chelford - 9.16 km with 48 metres of ascent (but not all in one go!)”
the turnout of ten random people was something of a surprise, especially to Notchy, who, having walked the route earlier in the day, but having succumbed to short-term memory loss, tried hard to allay his fear of getting lost by gazing lovingly into the screen of his GPS unit all evening.
It was a lovely warm evening, with pleasant lanes, and paths beside sandpits, and not a drop of rain.
Two Johns were present, including ‘magician’ JJ, who helped Steve out:
“My shins hurt” announced Steve.
“I’ll carry you then” offered JJ.
“OK” agreed Steve, not realising that he was about to be sprinkled with JJ’s magic powder that he had found in a Roald Dahl first edition.
Steve never really recovered from this, and had completely disappeared by the time we left the jolly bellringers of Chelford church to continue their appeal for his reappearance.
Here’s our 8.5 km route – very good for a two hour stroll, even if it was a bit shorter than broadcast.
Thanks everyone for turning up – the evening programme is here – hope to see you again on 15 July in Hayfield.
(I may load a short slide show later – out of time now.)
Must go…another trip is beckoning…
Friday, 10 June 2011
2 to 6 June 2011 – A Long Weekend based at Windermere Youth Hostel
There were eleven participants on this trip. Whilst youth hostels aren’t particularly cheap these days, this one at Windermere has been nicely refurbished, with rooms for two or four people, some being en-suite, and with ample grounds and various prepared activities for children, such as orienteering, treasure hunting, etc. In fact it is extremely child friendly, which is just as well as we had four under tens in our party, and Much Cheaper than a B&B or hotel.
Ten of us arrived on a hot Thursday afternoon. Ben and Polly soon grabbed Sue when their mum and Dad dozed off.
We all then enjoyed a stroll up Wansfell Pike, with ‘Bubbles’ celebrating reaching the summit in style.
Al and I went on to the summit of Wansfell, whilst the others raced us back to Troutbeck. Some of them beat us, despite our running!
All that exercise meant good business for the bar at the hostel (yes, many youth hostels have licensed bars these days), and we were soon tucking in to Sue’s excellent sausage pasta dish.
The pudding was Yummy – a repeat of the one we cooked for Lyn and Simon’s wedding ‘a few’ years ago.
Friday morning dawned hot and sunny, so everyone enjoyed a trip down to Windermere.
We caught the Bowness ferry and whilst some just lazed around on the western shore of the lake, others went for a ‘paddle’. In the absence of swimwear, many of the images that record this episode could get me into trouble if I publish them here…
Anyway, everyone else adjourned to a boat trip to Ambleside, whilst I strolled back to the hostel via The Dales Way, The Windermere Way, and Orrest Head. A lovely walk, albeit very hot, with fine views throughout, and especially towards the Kentmere Hills from Orrest Head.
It was thirsty work, and again we ate outside, today Al and Hazel being providers of plentiful pizza and salad.
Fiona had joined us on Friday afternoon, and she helped to coax Polly up Helm Crag on Saturday morning. (Hot, sunny. Boring isn’t it!)
I was very happy by lunch time, having managed to scale the summit rock face (closely followed by a small girl). It’s about as hard as I can manage without a rope!
Sue and Al also made it to the top, whilst others were happy to watch, before descending to play in a frothy beck, from where a short walk led to the Lancrigg Hotel. A gem of a place, outside which we enjoyed massive servings of carrot cake and other delights, before returning for a well cooked YHA meal.
Sunday morning saw Lyn and Simon head off with their charges, but not before Aussie Stephen, from the hostel (a very patient man – we observed him working diligently in reception, where some guests fully expected the service that would be offered by a five star hotel – and got it) took this excellent group photo.
The remaining seven of us headed off to Grizedale Forest on a cooler day, and enjoyed a romp around the ‘red’ trail over Carron Crag.
Numerous sculptures were encountered, as always in this forest, this one being near the summit of the crag.
Then we all went home, after an extremely successful and enjoyable outing. Very relaxing after the TGO Challenge!
Sue and I took lots of photos. A selection of 50 is here, but if you were lucky enough to be on this particular trip, you may enjoy the ‘full works’, some 160 images, here.
Monday, 6 June 2011
Summer in Timperley (1)
We are back here for a few days (for the benefit of Gibson) after a very summery trip to the Lake District on which I will report later in the week.
Meanwhile, back at home, the swifts (who arrived at the end of April) are getting noisier, but I think may still be incubating under the eaves; the nettles down the ‘entry’ ginnel that gives access to the canal are growing uncontrollably; and the Canada Geese goslings (pictured above) are prancing around with all the confidence if not the aggression of their parents.
Nearby, the MSC Co (Manchester Ship Canal Company) barge known as ‘WF No 1’ is engaged in repairing the Bridgewater Canal at the point where constant use by the local rowing club has caused the stonework of the bank to collapse. One of its jolly crew members claimed that ‘WF No 1’ was an abbreviation of ‘Wayne Forever No 1’. I know better – this is one of several canal maintenance vessels - ‘Work Float No 1’.
Thursday, 2 June 2011
Wansfell
Here we are, in the sunshine with the pixies for a few days of R+R.
I'm taking a short break from mobile blogging whilst we are here, so a report will follow during the course of next week.
Enjoy the sunshine, everyone.
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Wednesday, 1 June 2011
A Brief Interlude in Timperley
This time we are back at home for 36 hours, rather than 20 minutes, so there has been time to visit grandson Jacob, now six weeks old, to whom I have sub-contracted Webtogs’ latest offering for testing, the Soft III Baby Carrier.
He says it’s so comfy it makes him very sleepy, but he’ll try to draft a proper review shortly!
I see that I have 530 unread items on Google Reader. I’m afraid they’ll remain unread for a while – I’m loathe to rush through the TGO Challenge reports (not to mention the photos already on the Message Board) and other interesting items, but I hear there’s going to be a heat wave tomorrow!
See you out there, perhaps?
Here’s another view of the Baby Carrier in action.
Tuesday, 31 May 2011
Monday 30 May 2011 - SWCP Day 3 - Warwick Court Guest House in Weymouth to The Old Bakehouse in Winfrith Newburgh
Weather: dreich, in a gentle south coast sort of way.
As expected, today dawned wet. But it was only vaguely drizzly as Andrew, Liz, Jill, Sue and I set off down Weymouth's esplanade past hungry herring gulls that one member of our party thought were albatrosses! Even the beach huts were being tarted up in preparation for next year's Olympics, when the sailing events are being held here. In fact, some of our fellow guests are members of the Spanish Sailing Team, on their fourth 'reconnaissance' visit!
Elsewhere in Weymouth, road changes and other works in preparation for the Olympics have caused sufficient disruption to bring some of the local populace to regret that their town is hosting such an event.
Betty and Dave had gone home due to Dave's need to work, so it was a bedraggled foursome of Sue, David, Gaynor and Hilde who joined the five of us at a typical seaside café at Bowleaze Cove. We'd reached it before the rain strengthened, so it was a rather odd sight of dryish walkers meeting the occupants of a car who looked as if they had been through a car wash with the windows open.
The coast path now rose up some meaningful cliffs as we pressed on towards Osmington Mills and Ringstead. Foghorns blared through the mist; visibility for a while was less than 100 metres - lower than at any point on my TGO Challenge route except Hound Hillock. Yellow iris and honeysuckle glistened in the weak light.
By the time we reached the picture postcard setting of the Smugglers Inn, the weather was clearing, but tables laid out for hordes of Bank Holiday visitors were deserted.
It was only noon, so we eschewed the delights of this place and continued on to a well stocked kiosk at Ringstead, where John from France joined our group for a spell.
The rain had eased by now and we enjoyed the final section of this year's tramp in fairer weather and in the fine scenery of the chalky cliffs that lead towards Durgle Door and Lulworth Cove. The path was lined with the distinctive white flowers of Nottingham Catchfly.
The sheer cliffs rise to around 150 metres hereabouts. Spectacular scenery even in today's dull weather. Others took a variety of short cuts across The Warren, past a couple of beacons, to gain the excellent footpath to East Chaldon. Meanwhile Sue (pictured above) and I continued as far as we could along the crumbling chalky coastal cliffs, finally turning inland along a permissive path shortly before reaching Bat's Head.
We soon caught up, and Colin, who instigated these SWCP trips in the mid 1990s, turned up to walk with us for the last couple of miles and join the tea party at The Old Bakehouse, where we finished this year's section of the coast path at around 3.45pm. Very enjoyable the tea party was too.
Finely honed plans to return to Weymouth were scuppered by the designated driver having left their keys in Weybridge, but a combination of Colin and the X53 bus came to the rescue, and our trip ended happily with a nice meal washed down with Ringwood Brewery's Best Bitter at The Rock.
Thanks, everyone, for another great trip.
Sent from the M5 on a gloriously sunny morning ... Ho hum!
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Monday, 30 May 2011
Sunday 29 May 2011 - SWCP Day 2 - Sue and Martin's Mini Adventure around The Isle of Portland, from Warwick Court Guest House in Weymouth
Weather: fine! But very windy.
With the rest of the gang having secured lifts to Ferry Bridge, it was left for Sue and me to stroll down from our B+B, Warwick Court Guest House. We left at 9am for the 9.30 rendezvous. It took us an hour. Luckily the others had been delayed by a 'car parking incident', so we were only ten minutes or so behind.
We had strolled past banks of red Valerian and masses of Broomrape, and were within a few yards of catching Andrew, the back marker of our group, when a sudden urgent need propelled us into the excellent Blue Fish Café, where a Sunday breakfast service was in full swing.
We emerged, half an hour later, and bashed on along Anquet's thin blue line on an A4 printed map.
Unfortunately the thin blue line that signified our intended path. was only partially supported by a red dotted line. A 'Coast Path' sign was missed. It would have drawn us up to a broad cliff top path. Instead we headed to the end of a thin path and onto a boulder field just above the high tide mark. This lasted for around 3km and took us two hours. Perhaps we should have turned back, especially where the cliff face forced us below the tide line at a time when the tide was marching up to greet us. Some quick dashes across rocks laden with lettuce wrack were required in order to dodge a dousing.
On and on it went. Over huge rocks laden with fossils - ammonites as thick as your arm, and vast quantities of shells.
Eventually we caught sight of people ahead of us. Were they the rest of our party? Surely not! We waved to them. They waved back. They couldn't be our party, though - as they drew closer it became apparent that they were wearing helmets and carrying ropes. It was reassuring to meet them in an area of huge boulders and landslips. They passed on advice about the route ahead. It would 'go' - just about.
So we continued on over massive boulders, across landslips and slimy rocks, and up precipitous slopes of grass, shale and brambles with long thorns, eventually reaching a small group of climbers perched precariously below an upper band of cliffs.
Continuing on along a thin path below these cliffs, we scrambled our way into a position from which it was possible to escape onto the broad cliff top coast path. On the way a twenty foot down climb nearly had me calling for assistance by way of a top rope, but somehow Sue managed to coax me down at the second attempt.
Today's picture is taken looking back to this whole area of our 'Mini Adventure'. I'd spent Thursday night listening to various TGO Challengers relating such adventures over the past couple of weeks without being able to reciprocate, so having finally reached safety I was delighted to have this story to tell!
Having emerged onto the correct route near Southwell, it was an easy stroll to the fleshpots of Portland Bill, where we sheltered on a rock behind a shed to enjoy a late lunch after an encounter with Alfie the dog.
The thrift strewn coast path up the east side of the Isle was interesting. After passing through an area of fishermen and holiday shacks, it went past a couple of quarries and areas laden with huge blocks of Portland Stone.
Beyond a ruined church, signs routed us up to a field of white coated bowls players. Actually they were dressed all in white, with white down jackets billowing in the wind. Past the Alcatraz grey of an extensive and austere Young Offenders Institute, from where the familiar sound of an old Pink Floyd classic (concerning education) wafted inappropriately.
We tried to follow the path. We failed. Our excuse is the sign we think we misread was concealed by a group of girly jockeys.
After extricating ourselves from an unwelcome and off-route quarry we continued on to boringly regain our chosen path, admire extensive views of Chesil Beach, and eventually return to our morning route near the coffee shop.
Trudging back across the blowy causeway, I observed that today's wind was as brisk as any I had encountered on my low level sections of this year's TGO Challenge. The relative calm of the Rodwell Trail along a disused railway line was very welcome. It took us nearly all the way to Warwick Court, where we arrived at 5.30pm, not too far behind the rest of the group that we had failed to accompany all day.
An evening with a BBQ at The Old Bakehouse, a holiday cottage in Winfrith Newburgh that had been rented for the week by Sue and David, proved most enjoyable. On the way we passed the scene of the afore-mentioned 'parking incident' where Gaynor's car was still suspended on a rock intended to discourage people from parking on a grassy verge!
Alan R, you should realise by now that any let up in transmissions will be spotted by Dot, who requires daily trip updates! (I know you're only envious!)
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Saturday, 28 May 2011
Saturday 28 May 2011 - SWCP Day 1 - Abbotsbury to Weymouth
Sue and I have been strolling around the SWCP (South West Coast Path) at this time of year for quite a number of years now. We have got all the way from Minehead to Weymouth, with just one small missing link for me in North Devon, and a bit more for Sue.
In recent years the TGO Challenge and other commitments have relegated this trip to the autumn, but this year a pre-prepared bag enabled me to spend just 20 minutes at home between returning with JJ and Graham B from Montrose and setting off for three days on the SWCP, based in Weymouth.
Yes, Gayle, I seem to have brought the dodgy weather with me, but I'm sure the 'Phreerunner Effect' will result in a 'reversal of fortunes', as Anne Robinson would say, shortly...
Thanks again for the comments, especially re TGOC kit, which I'll add to when I finally get some time at home. That's needed soon as, having spent the week before the Challenge in Scotland, my supply of usable kit and clothing is dwindling!
Today a bus delivered our intrepid party of ten - Sue, me, Andrew, David, Sue, Dave, Betty, Gaynor and Hilde to the pretty village of Abbotsbury.
Coffee was taken and various members of the party attempted to lighten their loads by leaving items in the tea shop. "We acquire a wide range of walking poles and prescription spectacles" commented the friendly owner.
A stroll down towards the beach afforded us a sea view. But our route today took us inland of West Fleet and East Fleet, the lagoons that are protected from the sea in all but the stormiest conditions by the high barrier beyond - Chesil Beach - along which we did not attempt to venture.
The inland route was pretty handy in today's strong winds, as it provided some welcome respite from the cold draught, which admittedly was on our backs.
Elevenses (pictured), featuring a freshly baked batch of CCS (Chocolate Caramel Shortbread), were soon taken before we pressed on past fields of Ox-eye Daisies to our lunch stop in another sheltered spot near Langton Herring.
The going was easy, much more so than on the roughty toughty coastlines of previous years' trips, so we soon arrived at a random spot near East Fleet where Liz, the eleventh member of our party, was patiently waiting after a long bus journey from Exeter.
We ambled on, along an increasingly 'industrialised' coastline, past a firing range and an army training ground - interspersed with a camp site and a holiday park. The verges were full of sweet smelling flowers.
Ferry Bridge, in Weymouth, was reached at 3.40pm. An enticing looking café - the Crab House Café - had closed for the afternoon, but a nearby ice cream kiosk provided sustenance. That gave us the energy to continue for another four km or so to our B+B.
Our walk was brightened by some chirpy chaffinches before we descended to the ferry terminal, where we were confronted by a huge black cloud. Leakage from that was surprisingly minimal, and we all managed to stay vaguely dry, for a while, until our shower cubicles were pressed into use.
So it was a very clean bunch of diners that reconvened at the Red Lion in Winfrith for an excellent nosh and a sideways glance at Man Utd being thrashed by Barca in the Champions League final.
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
The Fleet Lagoon
It's great to be back on the South West Coast Path with some of our old 'ex Jo'berg Hiking Club' friends.
This year's section started today from the picturesque village of Abbotsbury. The route follows inland paths for a while to protect the wildlife from marauding humans, eventually regaining the coast here at The Fleet Lagoon.
It hasn't rained here for weeks, but as you might gather from the picture, I seem to have brought the 'weather' with me from Scotland!
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Friday, 27 May 2011
TGO Challenge 2011 - Index, Gear, etc
Thanks also to any Challengers who may read this, for helping to make this year's Challenge so friendly and sociable, and to Mike for keeping me company. It was great to meet Colin Crawford - my vetter, fellow bloggers Louise and Laura, and many other new and old friends at Montrose campsite and at the Park Hotel last night.
Mike and I only used two B+Bs - at Oban and at Bridge of Gaur, where Eddie and Heather's hospitality was unforgettable. We hope to visit you again soon.
The staff at Ballater, North Water Bridge and Montrose campsites were all very friendly and helpful, given their sudden bombardment by lots of bearded backpackers, Ballater in particular being extremely kind in letting 20 of us sleep in their back office rather than throwing us all out to find B+Bs in conditions that were too dangerous for camping.
An index for this year's postings will be provided in due course.
But for now, after yesterday's wonderful evening celebrating the successful conclusion of a Challenge in wet conditions, but mainly applauding Roger Smith's efforts as coordinator over the past 20 years, I'm already moving on to the next trip.
Today's image is one taken last Sunday from the summit plateau of Ben Avon.
Here are a few initial comments concerning kit:
Star performers: RAB SuperDru jacket, RAB Bergen overtrousers, and Sealskinz socks worn continuously for 8 days - no water ingress at all with any of these items.
Phoenix Phreerunner Goretex tent - used and abused for many years - slight ingress in a major storm was easily dealt with using a J-cloth.
Scarpa Infinity Goretex lined boots - these old boots were supremely comfortable, any slight seepage being easily dealt with by the Sealskinz socks that dried overnight.
Karrimor XXL dry bag (new) - the only dry bag used, for everything, and it worked.
Problems: Sealskinz gloves - very soggy when wet but dry inside unless you insert (with difficulty) wet digits. Not suitable for severe weather. Any suggestions?
Major concern: frayed hip belt, both sides, on Go-Lite Quest rucksack. This three year old rucksack has been worn for around four months in total. It's irreparable, so had a disappointingly short life despite good weight and comfort.
Breakages:
Ortlieb 2 litre water carrier - seam failure on this old piece of kit.
Avon Skin So Soft - turned out to have crystallised despite a 2012 sell-by date.
Lifeventure silk liner - worn seam at bottom - had to tie a knot in it; these liners seem less than durable.
Matches - didn't take enough! Bought a lighter at Dalwhinnie.
That's all for now from the 2011 TGO Challenge. Thanks for watching!
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Thursday 26 May 2011 - TGO Challenge Day 14 - North Water Bridge to Nether Woodston Beach (NO 756 648 - 0 metres)
See http://www.topwalks.com/tgoc2011.html Day 14 for map
Distance: 16km (Cum 350) [Mike 16 - Cum 333]
Ascent: 250 metres (Cum 12130) [Mike 250 - Cum 9395]
Time taken: 3.2hrs including 0.2hrs stops
Weather: heavy rain overnight, then easing as we started walking and fine for most of the walk.
Challengers encountered: we walked with both Peter ('Morpeth') and Mick ('Croydon') at times and finished together with Mick, Markus and Silke. Hundreds of other Challengers are here in Montrose.
Others encountered: none worthy of mention
Flora and Fauna: coastal flowers
Best bit: the award ceremony
Worst bit: the café at St Cyrus being shut
Number of days in full waterproofs: 9+ (for Lynsey)
A short walk to the coast ended the fortnight's physical endurance test.
There followed an afternoon and evening of socialising, during which Roger Smith handed over the organiser's mantle to John Manning.
It was a memorable night, of which more in due course.
A small section of the campsite at Montrose is pictured. Unlike last year, it wasn't raining!
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange





