The main purpose of this blog is to keep in touch with friends and family, and maybe entertain others with common interests, particularly in relation to the outdoors. We hope you enjoy it, and your comments are valued....
Sue and Martin in Mallorca 2019
On the Archduke's Path in Mallorca
Thursday, 22 April 2010
Wednesday 21 April 2010 - Markus's Caledonian Trail - Day 8 - Allt Feith Gharuiareagan to Dalwhinnie
Ah yes - from the North Yorks Moors.
Some time ago.
Today we woke to frozen water bottles and a fairly wintry scene. Winter gear stayed on all the way over two Munros, Beinn Udlamain and A' Mharconaich, and down to Balsporran Cottages. We met just two people (none yesterday), on the broad snowy ridge separating the Munros.
"Is it any less windy ahead?" they asked, warning us of strong winds ahead in our direction. It actually became calmer, and we were jealous that they had the wind behind them.
Conditions today were dry and firm, even where it may normally be very boggy. We spent several hours tramping across what I pictured as an Arctic tundra landscape (pictured above - with Markus demonstrating his superior fitness), with stunted frozen heather scraping a living off a bed of shale.
A short cut meant that we just got a view of Loch Monaidh rather than camping next to it as planned. It looked boggy from a distance; perhaps we chose wisely last night.
Then a long battle with the keen north wind took us over various summits to the west of Drumochter before leading us down towards the A9 and Dalwhinnie.
We lunched in calmer conditions on the lower slopes. My tinned fish blew away from the spork.
An easy river crossing led to Balsporran Cottages and the cycle track that runs beside the A9. We zoomed along here to reach a bus stop in time for the 15.59 to Newtonmore. We'd covered 19 km, with 760 metres ascent, in somewhat less than 7 hours.
Eagle View Guest House is very comfortable, and the Glen Hotel next door has provided succour by way of food and beer. Our food parcels/mountains are intact and our batteries are re-charging (or will be when I've finished this).
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Wednesday, 21 April 2010
Tuesday 20 April 2010 - Markus's Caledonian Trail - Day 7 - Glen Sassunn to Allt Feith Gharuiareagan
Markus's tent fabric is 'flappier' than the thick single skin of goretex that I prefer despite the extra weight, so it was probably quite noisy in there. Tonight we both have the crashing of Petter Falls, where Allt Feith Gharuiareagan pours into the outflow from Loch Monaidh, to lull us to sleep (or in Markus's case, keep him awake).
After a lie in until 7.30, the dynamic duo had packed up and were off down the hill by 9 o' clock. It was a good track on a cold morning with fine views.
After passing a lovely lawn full of daffodils at Innerhadden, we fancied stopping for a coffee at Kinloch Rannoch. Then, after Markus had raided the local store, he remembered that the hotel was not 'backpacker friendly'. 'Under New Management' proclaimed a large sign outside the Dunalastair Hotel. We entered; the interior was even more opulent than the exterior. "Sloman country" muttered Markus, and asked for breakfast.
All except Markus agreed that 10.30 was a little late for breakfast.
"Will a piece of toast, with perhaps a bit of bacon be ok", asked the waitress.
A few minutes later, after they had killed the pig, its meaty bits arrived, sandwiched between the best part of a loaf of bread. We didn't need to eat again until we reached camp. My food mountain of uneaten supplies is growing steadily.
"So the new owners don't mind grubby backpackers?" I tested the waitress. "Not at all" responded the waitress "I AM the new owner!"
It turns out that TGO Challengers will be most welcome here in May, either calling in for refreshments, or staying in one of their 28 rooms. It is a posh hotel, though, and is priced accordingly - B+B from £120, B+B+Dinner from £180. I didn't ask about camping.
After an hour or so in the hotel lounge's comfy armchairs earwiging the witterings of a conference breakout group (oh, the memories!) we felt obliged to continue.
Waves were breaking on the eastern shore of Loch Rannoch, but the strong, icy wind was forecast to subside, and the tops were clear, so there seemed no good reason to adopt a Foul Weather Alternative.
We headed on up the elderly Land Rover Track that leads to Loch Garry and the A9, pausing frequently to admire the views in the crisp light. The prominent prow of Schiehallion was a highlight.
Soon after 1pm the angry roar of two RAF jets appeared to declare UK airspace open for business after a five day shut down (I never did get a photo of the 'All Scottish Airports Closed - Volcanic Ash' sign on the M74 gantrys), though we still haven't seen any commercial planes and the red sunset did indicate high level air pollution...
Loch Garry came into view (pictured), as did a plethora of wildlife - mountain hares, a huge herd of deer, wheatears, chaffinches, golden plover, black grouse, and many more.
Duinish bothy provided a brief respite from the icy headwind, before we left the main track and headed up towards Loch Monaidh along a boggy, haggy rudimentary LRT beside Allt Shallainn.
It was hard going.
Imagine our delight when we turned into the valley that houses the outflow from Loch Monaidh to find a Rivendell. The river trundles down a wide canyon, with flat grassy banks on either side where the water hasn't dredged its way into the mountainside. It was cold, with sleety showers, so we halted here, opposite the waterfall named after my companion, in this secret wonderland (for backpackers, anyway) rather than continue to our planned destination. We can easily pick up the time tomorrow.
The sun came out and we have enjoyed a most pleasant evening here at about 580 metres, after a day of 24 km and 580 metres of ascent, taking 8 hours including two long stops..
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Duinish Bothy and The Ghost of Mike Knipe
We were shocked to find the lifeless form of a Pie Man already in situ.
For once in his life, the Pie Man did not appear to be yearning for Kylie!
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Tuesday, 20 April 2010
Monday 19 April 2010 - Markus's Caledonian Trail - Day 6 - Aberfeldy to Glen Sassunn
We awoke this morning to snow at 200 metres and the generous offer of coffee from our 'Trail Daddy'. Markus had slept better than previously whilst I had impersonated a log.
The rain had ceased by the time we set off at 8.30 on a 10 km road walk to Keltneyburn. We missed a trick here. Or should that read 'track'? There's a new riverside path from Aberfeldy's fine Tay Bridge to Kenmore, which you can exit near Keltneyburn. We should have taken it.
Anyway, after finally leaving the road we enjoyed a brew then set off up easy slopes. Tracks took us up to 500 metres or so, after which it was a yomp over snow covered heather.
After lunch in a sheltered spot with views of Schiehallion between cool showers, we laboured on up to Meall Liath and Carn Mairg, at 1042 metres our high point of the day. Two people seen from afar had gone by the time we arrived via a steep bank of snow. We saw no other hillwalkers today.
Time was getting on, so we strolled along the ridge for a while with a keen NW wind in our faces and soft snow into which we both plunged from time to time.
There were both deer and mountain hares high on the hill, so perhaps spring isn't so far away?
By the time we'd descended from Meall a' Bharr, Markus's left leg - injured on a steep descent in Glen Almond - was troubling him, so he took a short cut down to Glen Sassunn in increasingly gloomy weather. Meanwhile, I plodded up the final hill of the day, Meal Garbh (968 metres), catching some final rays of sun that somehow managed to negotiate their way through the leaden clouds, before descending carefully past agitated Golden Plovers into the glen to join Markus here (pictured) just as he had finished assembling the rather flimsy looking Terra Nova Laser Competition tent that he'd bought a few days earlier in Blackford. It's very light - part of the reason that he's carrying 13kg compared to my 16kg. I have too much food.
Today's 28km and 1365 metres ascent (just a bit less for Markus) took 10.25 hours (half an hour less for M) - over an hour quicker than my estimate.
Snow continues to blast the tent as I try to arrange things in the dark to secure maximum insulation and comfort for the back I ricked packing up this morning.
And so, it's goodnight from Markus and me in Glen Sassunn.
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Sunday, 18 April 2010
Another Trip
Leaving the car at the campsite I gathered a few meagre possessions and ambled over to the main road, where chance had it that I came upon a Proud Scotsman.
"Would you like a lift to Aberfeldy?"
"Yes please, kind sir."
So that's where I am. By coincidence, The Mad Austrian, Markus Petter, arrived shortly afterwards. He has spotted a restaurant.
We will trail in his wake...
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Saturday 17 April 2010 - Martin Scoular's Final Corbett - Garbh-bheinn

"Crazy" muttered Jon M, who with 1118 Relative Summits (Marilyns) to his name knows about these things.
"I agree" added Peter, who with 1152 summits to his name should know even better.
"I remember when you led a party of 20 novices over Aonach Eagach" countered Martin, fresh from today's traverse of Garbh-bheinn, a Grade 1 scramble, with an assortment of novices and more experienced folk.
"I don't" concluded Peter, after conceding that Martin may have been recalling an event from over 20 years earlier. Peter is now rather elderly, forgetful, and safety conscious.
There was just enough room on the summit to create the traditional tunnel of walking poles for Martin to celebrate his coming of Corbett'age (pictured). Not the best picture, I agree, but the conditions were less than perfect.
Over 20 folk had converged on the summit at around 2pm, after getting there by a variety of different routes and speeds. I had followed Martin; not necessarily a good idea as anyone who had followed him to his final Munro would know. So, in keeping with that historic event, the eight of us who were designated as the 'A' Team, duly arrived at the foot of the Wrong Hill soon after 10am.
The Wrong Hill turned out, unlike previously, to be a deliberate ploy to 'warm up' on the grassy slopes of Glas Bheinn Mhor (570 metres), which we summited at 11.30, in fine weather and without incident.
It was now obvious that a further obstacle lay between our group of eight and Martin's objective. It was called Belig, a 700 metre pimple with a steep looking belly.
"We'll go up the right hand ridge" declared Martin, and promptly headed off up the steep left hand ridge, which admittedly did look easier from closer quarters.
"I've never been here before" he explained, tetchily, to the doubting onlookers.
Anyway, it wasn't too difficult, and the now disparate group arrived on the summit over quite a long period some time before 1pm. By now we were a little damp as rain forecast to start at 12noon had indeed behaved as if some sort of heavenly alarm had turned on a tap at exactly that time. The rain was due to last for an hour, so Martin had planned his timings accordingly, to reach the summit of his final Corbett, now hidden under a soggy blanket above a steep black precipice, on a lovely sunny spring day.
Sadly, him up there forgot to turn the tap off, as can be seen from the picture. But we did make it up the north east ridge of Garbh-bheinn, only a little late, to join others who had been there for nearly an hour, and wait for stragglers from the 'C' team, whose 'novices' all made it up, with only a couple of more sensible people having turned around at an exposed point only about 50 metres from the 806 metre summit. We knew that the 'B' team of Alison and Peter had already retreated, having satisfied themselves with the summit of Belig, so summit celebrations were held, then resumed, with alcohol now available, lower down the hill above Coire na Seilg.
Well over 20 folk had made the summit. Very commendable as it was not that easy on the ridge. A fine hill, and in my opinion Martin, a great choice.
There had been a further team, 'Jerry's', that had set out to ascend Marsco as an alternative 'warm up', but they had finished up traversing that hill to avoid being late for the party. This was good news for me as Jerry still fancied going up Marsco, which is a lovely hill with fine views. It's the shapely hill you can see on the left as you look up Glen Sligachan from outside the hotel.
So, Jerry and I ambled up to the 736 metre summit, chatted to some friendly locals, and then strolled back down to reach the fleshpots of the bunkhouse before 7pm.
Though the rain had thickened towards the end of the day, it had been a fine trip into the Cuillins, with views (of sorts) from all four summits.
The evening was a culinary delight, not to say somewhat alcoholic. Later on, Steve appeared to die, with only Margriet able to revive him - by whispering in his ear "wouldn't you be more comfortable in bed"! before leading him away. The tenor of the evening then subsided into murky tales from the XXL Club archives (I had wondered how it got that name), mostly from Angus, on the subject of 'pants'.
Time for bed!
[Later] A slide show for the weekend is available here.
Friday, 16 April 2010
Iconic Views
Who knows what tomorrow holds; I suspect I may be entering an Orange free zone, so I may not be in touch again for a while.
I'm sure you can sympathise with my predicament - I'm now off to 'The Slig' to join a party of 25 (mostly) Proud Scotsmen.
Hic (in anticipation!)
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
The Temptress
The room is booked...
(The view from here is fit for a Queen, but the sun is at the wrong angle for the Blackberry's rudimentary lens. Sorry about that.)
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Glen Shee
The more astute amongst you may see where this is leading!
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Glen Clova
Especially if, like today, the sun is beating down, the pheasants and oyster catchers are frisky in the fields, and the locals are accommodating. Good morning coffee at Glen Clova Hotel for a fraction of motorway prices...
(The journey continues...)
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Dunnottar Castle
I hope the weather will be as sunny and warm for them as it is today.
Last night, after 13 years' of going on trips with an Aberdeen based walking club, I finally got to visit the city. Thanks go to Martin S, a Proud Scotsman, for putting me up. See you later, Martin.
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Thursday, 15 April 2010
Scotland Again
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Tuesday, 13 April 2010
A Caledonian Trail, with Markus Petter
During the depths of the long winter that has now burst into Spring, a somnolent Austrian, unable due to work commitments to take his usual place on the TGO Challenge, busied himself by poring over maps of Scotland. He devised a trek from Cramond, which some may argue is not a suburb of Edinburgh, to Cape Wrath, which is about as far as you can go in that direction.
Markus’s stroll is planned to cover 574 km (359 miles), with about 21,100 metres of ascent, over a period of 23 days.
It is a tough route, but Markus is a tough chap. He is up for the Challenge.
By popular request I have put details of Markus’s route on a web page here. He has promised to let me know how he is getting on, so that the ‘Actual’ rows strategically placed below each day’s route description do not remain forever blank.
He last reported in on his journey from Dornbirn to Munich, from where his journey deposits him in Edinburgh this evening.
So he should be making his way from a plush Edinburgh hotel to Cramond during the course of tomorrow morning, to start his very own ‘Caledonian Trail’.
Good Luck, Markus.
[The above image shows the view I expect to have of Markus for a few days after I join him at Aberfeldy on ‘Day 6’. I must be mad!]
Monday, 12 April 2010
Sue W’s 40th Birthday Party in Helmsley
It always rains on Sue W’s weekends.
Perhaps now that she’s an old lady, her luck will change. It certainly did last weekend, when 30 to 40 of her family and friends converged on Helmsley Youth Hostel and other nearby residences to celebrate her coming of an age from whence everything gets a bit harder, slower and stiffer.
Sue (B) and I did different walks on Saturday, and I had the camera – so there are very few ‘group’ photos. And there were only six of us on our Sunday walk, most people either having gone home or having had to nurse the sunstroke that arose from their failure to wear a sunhat on Saturday.
Nevertheless, a vast array of images is on display here, together with ‘captions of commentary’, for anyone interested.
In brief:
On Saturday everyone walked as far as Rievaulx Abbey, where the massive group splintered into a ‘lollipop walk’ (a loop west of Rievaulx before returning down the Cleveland Way ‘stick’ to Helmsley), and the ‘long hike’ to which five of us gravitated, with others touring the abbey and generally doing their own thing.
The ‘long hike’ proceeded up Rye Dale on this fine, not to say hot, day.
It stopped for lunch on a grassy bank, then proceeded airily (flanks), smartly (2nd left), sunstrokingly (2nd right), and very slowly and sweatily (centre) towards a Big Forest.
At the edge of the Big Forest, wide banks of Wood Anemone beckoned the unwary. I stumbled in, only to be trapped by a bed of nettles.
We managed to escape the forest, and returned safely to savour the tea and cakes so thoughtfully provided by Sue W at 4 pm. She also had a very entertaining video that traced her origins, life and times, condensed into a few pictures on a laptop computer. Very entertaining…
Here’s our route – 20 km, 530 metres ascent, 5 hours plus stops.
After partying long and late, fuelled by a (actually excellent) Youth Hostel meal and a few Black Sheep – we drunk the hostel dry of this – we rose on Sunday to another beautiful day!
Most returned home or bimbled, but six of us walked a short section of the Cleveland Way, along the escarpment from Square Corner, near Osmotherley, to Sutton Bank.
Here we are, near the summit of a local ‘peak’.
I spent my teenage years around here; during which time I developed a life-long love of the Countryside.
There was a constantly lovely view west, as we strolled along, with various parts of the Pennines visible on the distant but very clear horizon.
Sue managed ok this weekend, though she’s a bit sore today. It was good that she could enjoy a walk in the country on such a lovely day.
Here’s our 16 km, 390 metres ascent, 3.5 hour route.
There are some fine bike rides around here, as well. The North Yorks Moors is an area we should visit more often.
As previously noted, there’s a slideshow here, with captions that elucidate further…the above report being a bit brief due to this week being seriously busy.
I’m off to do some decorating. Bye.
Friday, 9 April 2010
Thursday 8 April 2010 – Gayle and Mick’s K2CW trek – Day 17 – Thorpe to Youlgreave
Distance: 23 km (14 miles)
Ascent: 760 metres
Killer Dogs: 0
Killer Stiles: 0
Narrow Boats: 0!!
Killer Flies: 0
Killer Geese: 1
Fishermen: 0
Killer Trial Bikes: 6
Killer push bikes: 100
Runners: 0
Faffs: 8 (mainly Gayle)
Black Sheep: 2 (Glug)
Fluffy Cats: 0
Blog Stalkers: 1
Kit Failures: 0
Missing Uncles: 1
Ken’s Komfortable Taxis: 1
I enjoyed a lovely day out with Gayle and Mick, on their ‘Kent to Cape Wrath’ trek, accompanied today by Jeff, a blog stalker who goes by the name of ‘Trentham Walker’.
I slept in, a rather inauspicious start, so just as well that the many folk to whom I’d offered lifts were unable to make it.
After passing through freezing fog in Stockport, I emerged into a wonderful Peak District spring morning, with the threesome I was joining champing at the bit to shoot off into the countryside the moment I joined them at 8.15.
Here Gayle and Mick pose impatiently on the fine lawns of this swish campsite.
The views as we headed up past Bostern Grange Farm were ‘fab’, as the Pie Man would say.
Wolfscote Dale was calm and sunny – out of the cool breeze – so a second breakfast was enjoyed by us all.
The paths then became quite crowded with ramblers. But the Waterloo Inn wasn’t crowded at all. 11.25, it was shut.
Sandwiches on a bench later, it’s doors opened, Mick having Refused To Walk Past It (the Capitals are important, here). An hour and a half later the fully hydrated duo staggered back out into the glare of the Derbyshire sunshine.
(Incidentally, the pub has changed hands since we visited in December. The mushroom soup was thin and creamy, but the Black Sheep was fine.)
The Tissington Trail allowed for speedy, if breezy, progress towards our destination, though we had to be constantly alert to small children the drivers of tomorrow, who seemed to be on a mission to mow down all before them.
The peaceful day was rudely interrupted by crows mocking a pair of buzzards, and by six trial bikers on the track to Middleton, where we enjoyed afternoon tea on a bench, entertained by a learner driver in a Kangaroo, before Mick spotted this motor.
“You can smell the leather through the window” he exclaimed, ecstatically.
Don’t worry, Mick, it’ll probably still be there when you get back from your trek!
The walk into Youlgreave was delightful, as described by Gayle on her take of the day here.
Jeff got distracted by the sights of Youlgreave and the Black Bull, whilst the three of us lazed for a while outside the George, before Ken picked me up (thanks, Ken, that was Extremely Helpful) to return me to Thorpe, allowing the Dynamic Duo to stumble on to Alport.
Today’s metronomic pace matched that of Mr Naismith precisely (3 mph, adding an hour for every 2000 ft of ascent), so we completed the 14 miles with 760 metres ascent in 5.75 hours, excluding about 2 hours of breaks taken during this fairly leisurely stroll. Well, it would seem like that for me, wouldn’t it? The others had heavy rucksacks whilst I had a bum bag.
I’ve uploaded a few more snaps that can be viewed here.
Tuesday, 6 April 2010
Postcard from Timperley News Flash – ‘Follower makes it to 85’
Well, we hope so, as her birthday isn’t until Thursday…
Congratulations mum – and keep up the good work…
Sunday, 4 April 2010
Friday, 2 April 2010
A Great British Ridge Walk - Number 45 - Ben Mor Coigach
Sue, Anne and Janet (newly arrived last night) came with us to Culnacraig for their low level stroll back to Janet's car at Blughasary. They took longer than we did over their 10 km!
Ben Mor Coigach, at 743 metres, isn't a Munro. Nor is it a Corbett. But it's a fine hill that on all previous visits (four or so) I've ascended via the steep gully from Lochan Tuath. So Bill Birkett's route was a new one for me, and also for Ken whose previous experience of this hill had been via the Speicein Coinnich spur.
From Culnacraig we headed up Garbh Choireachan, the snow line being around 400 metres today. It was steep, leading to a flat-topped, narrow rock crest crowned with little tors and towers of sandstone. Delightful. We skipped along, enjoying every minute, with impressive views over Assynt to the north, and to the Fannaichs and An Teallach and beyond across Loch Broom.
Lunch was taken out of the wind on the 743 metre summit, from where the preceding two postings were snapped and sent. It's a great viewpoint.
The route took us onwards over the deserted hill to the spiky point of Sgurr an Fhidhleir, another fabulous viewpoint. The scenery in these parts compares with anything else I've seen in the world - perhaps I'm biased, or not well travelled, but that's how I rate it.
The walk back down the broad ridge to the car was simple. We were entertained by a couple encountered earlier at our parking spot, who could be seen slowly descending from half way along the Garbh Choireachan ridge. One of them had obviously encountered difficulties, and they hadn't managed to get as far as the main summit where Ken and I had savoured our lunch.
The above image shows Ken near the end of the 10 km, 960 metre ascent, 5.5 hour day, with the ridge behind.
All seven of us then regrouped for a final delicious meal (the larder is now bare), before preparing for tomorrow's long drive home.
There is likely to be a short interlude now, before some better images from this most successful (despite the weather) trip are uploaded.
And so, as they say, it's goodbye from me, and it's goodbye from Ullapool...
...until next time.
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
A Nice Little Ridge
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Thursday, 1 April 2010
Thursday 1 April 2010 - A Touch of Spring at Inverewe Gardens
The snow was down to below 200 metres, so the road was slushy for much of the journey. Views through the squally showers were dramatic as we rounded the vast bulk of An Teallach.
Inverewe Gardens opened today. We were amongst the first visitors. The coffee was excellent. Outside, coal tits, bullfinches and others were vying for pole position on their own restaurant.
The gardens were remarkably colourful, with lots of new life sprouting from the ground that is constantly warmed as a result of the gulf stream. Some images will follow. Sadly we were unable to walk along all the paths in the walled garden due to a 'jobsworth' Health & Safety officer having forced closure of certain excellent pathways.
Returning via the Corrieshalloch Gorge we enjoyed impromptu halts at a wartime pier, and when a bird the others thought might be a sea eagle flew over. It was probably a buzzard. Ken's an expert - he confirmed that Neil's grey goose theory was probably correct yesterday.
The gorge, also a National Trust property, harboured dangers far more hazardous than the walled garden, and would surely be closed down if inspected by the same person. We admired it from slippery pathways in a blizzard.
Back at home the sun shone for Janet's arrival from North Kessock, and all eleven of us (Lucy stayed in) enjoyed a good meal at the Arch Inn, just a few doors away.
Today's image is of Slioch, from Inverewe Gardens. The snow-capped mountains were impressive all day.
It's good to hear that Mick and Gayle are managing to bumble their way along a lumpy canal towpath, and that JJ is all set to embark on the Pie Man's big adventure. (Peebles to Moffat to Peebles.) We hope that trip is a great success, and an entertaining read...
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Wednesday, 31 March 2010
Wednesday 31 March 2010 - A Snowy Sea Shore Stroll
That had nothing to do with the excesses of our 'gala dinner' last night, of course!
This morning the delights of Ullapool Pottery's superb products drew us inside, but the price labels soon repulsed us. I did really fancy a fruit bowl. But for £325?
The bookshop was far more successful at emptying our wallets.
Morning coffee was followed quite briskly by lunch, then Andrew joined the six residents of Tigh na Mara for a 12 km stroll with 300 metres ascent - to Rhue Lighthouse along the shore line beside Loch Broom, returning by road.
En route we spied two familiar shapes, lurching towards us like ghosts from a horror movie. Ken and Anne emerged from the blizzard looking very pale. They had been birding, and reported 'seagulls and ducks'. We took the opportunity of taking a group photo and went our separate ways.
A man was collecting (peri)winkles in a big bucket on the beach. "They go to France" he said, adding that he harvests different beaches every day. Further along the shore there was much life to observe, including bucket loads of winkles.
Beyond a field of cute black pigs, a river crossing was needed to reach the lighthouse. It wasn't very deep, but our little troupe (pictured) conspired to make it as difficult as they could. This was one of the day's few photo opportunities, in between snow squalls.
Slithery rocks led eventually beyond busy oyster catchers to the small white lighthouse at Rhue, in the lee of which we rode out a violent blizzard. Sustained by a shared KitKat, the seven of us then hit the road for an hour long stroll back to Ullapool, passing the site of a couple of pre-historic round houses that may have been home to an extended family of 20-30 people around 3000 years ago.
We were entertained on the drag into Ullapool by a flock of grey geese, grazing in a field. Most of them were Greylag Geese, but one noisy intruder was being eschewed by the rest of the flock. It was different. Neil thinks it's a juvenile Pink-Footed Goose that has 'got lost'; whereas to me it looked more like a 1st winter European White-Fronted Goose. Neil is probably correct.
Back in 'town' the hedges and trees were teeming with bird life, including busy chaffinches and greenfinches, cooing collared doves, and a treefull of bedraggled starlings.
Now we are looking forward to Neil and Sam's culinery contribution, a curry. Interesting smells are emanating from the kitchen...
Sorry about the poor quality of the postcard images on this trip. It's been difficult. Judging by Jamie's comment, the weather in Timperley has been no better!
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Tuesday, 30 March 2010
Tuesday 30 March 2010 - Fresh Snow Up North
Morning coffee having been imbibed, and Ken's arrival having indicated impending activity, yesterday's Munro bagging quintet plus Ken drove up to the Braes of Ullapool, where a local homeowner acted as parking attendant for P+P's car.
It was snowing.
We wrapped up warmly and trudged slowly up to the 558 metre summit of Beinn Eilideach. The snowline was around 200 metres and the summit held 10-15 cm of fresh snow. Well, 'held' is a misnoma as most of the stuff seemed to be airborne, blasting into our faces from the north east.
We huddled briefly around the trig point, itself enclosed by a wall/cairn. There wasn't a copy of Pravda to be seen today, though apparently copies have been found there in the past. There must be a hill-bagging breed of Russian seaman!
I'd judiciously kept to the back today. I had no map. Yesterday, when I thought Paul was 'in charge', I had inadvertently drifted to the front a couple of times. "Thank you for leading" had been something of a surprise comment at the end of the walk! Not today...
Neil led us down through a gusty avalanche-free snow shower past herds of red deer and a noisy grouse to Leckmelm, where we lunched beside a snowy farm track (pictured).
Then a spot of road walking and very muddy forest paths led us past some 'eco-lodges' to our safe car parking spot. Neil and Sam's car hadn't enjoyed the guidance of a local attendant, and sadly had been involved in an accident! 'C'est la vie', as they say.
The 9 km walk involving 600 metres ascent had taken about 4 hours.
Blustery showers continued whilst Sue continued to teach Andrew and Anne some Photoshop skills, and our resident chefs set to work preparing a 'progressive' multi-location meal for 10 people and Lucy.
That's all for now as this evening's 'gala dinner' is unlikely to leave any time for blogging.
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Monday, 29 March 2010
Monday 29 March 2010 - Sgurr Mor on a Sunny Day
Crampons and ice axes were deployed after a couple of hours. They stayed on our feet for around four hours. At the top of the icy ramp that led us to the summit of Carn na Criche, a huge avalanche reverberated from the vicinity of Sgurr nan Clach Geala. A big slab of snow slid down its steep east face, leaving a huge brown slash down the mountain.
The five of us, Pam, Paul, Neil, Sam and I, had a great day out, continuing over Sgurr Mor and Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich to add two Munros to Paul's impressive quota (56 at the last count). 18 km and 1150 metres ascent, in 8 hours, were the day's stats (14 km, 750 metres, 6 hours - yesterday), particularly impressive in Sam's case as she was wearing brand new Scarpa Mantas for the first time and suffered no ill effects.
Snow showers did their best to blur our views through the otherwise clear air, and the above image taken from BLM Fannaich towards Loch Broom is sadly deficient despite incorporating a number of iconic profiles. Can you spot Stac Pollaidh, for example?
We saw nobody on the hill yesterday, but today, being Munro country, we got waves from two distant walkers, and a gruff greeting from a lone speedster who appeared just as we had finished using the self-timer on Sgurr Mor.
Nick - thanks for your comment, we'll certainly add some better images when we get home.
While Lucy and Rosemary stayed at home today, the others (Sue, Andrew, Ken and Anne) contrived to arrive home later than the rest of us after their brave ascent of the Graham, Beinn Ghobhlach. Very impressive!
Tonight's catering, courtesy of P+P's stilton and pine nut mountain, was nothing less than superb.
And so, it's goodnight from Ullapool, after another fine day in the hills.
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Sunday, 28 March 2010
Sunday 28 March 2010 - A Wet Corbett
Beinn Enaiglair was a good choice for this showery day. Ken and Anne could leave me at lunch time to continue to walk around the hill using amiable stalkers' paths, and I could nip to the summit (pictured) and slither down the other side in time to meet them for afternoon tea.
The remaining snow was very soft. Ice axes and crampons proved to be unnecessary encumbrances on this small (889 metre) 'hill of timid birds'.
Throngs of red deer were low on the slopes in the stormy weather, but wheatears and meadow pipits flitted about, seemingly impervious to the rain. Unlike my old leaky boots. Sealskinz socks came to the rescue today, and hopefully I'll start tomorrow dry, thanks to the absorbent qualities of some handy Sunday papers.
By the time the three of us got home, after our 5 hour walk, Sue had given Andrew a lesson on some technical aspects of digital photography, and Pam, Paul, Neil and Sam had arrived and installed themselves in Tigh na Mara. Ken and Anne joined the six Tigh na Mara residents for the chicken dinner that Mike usually gets at home (did you miss it, Mike?) and Andrew, Rosemary and Lucy joined us later. At some point amidst all this, I burnt a hole in a finger.
Ouch!
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Saturday, 27 March 2010
Saturday 27 March 2010 - A Long Day In The Car
We chased Andrew, Rosemary and Lucy, who are installed nearby, and Ken and Anne, whose luxurious quarters are called Hallival. Our own 'house mates' will arrive tomorrow.
Ken and Anne cooked us a lovely meal, then R+A arrived to polish off the wine. They needed something after appearing in a very bedraggled state due to slightly inclement meteorological conditions.
Today's postcard was taken on arrival here, from the same place as the header that adorns this blog. Today's conditions on Loch Broom were somewhat different less photogenic!
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Friday, 26 March 2010
Dunham Massey in Spring (1)
We have become frequent visitors to the new Winter Garden at Dunham Massey.
Now it’s spring, lots of stuff is ‘springing’ to life. Apart from what the harsh winter and temperatures of –15C to –20C has killed off, that is. This winter was a bit of a surprise to the gardeners, given the Mediterranean nature of recent such seasons.
The above picture was taken by Sue on Tuesday. The garden really was most colourful, with swathes of daffodils as well as some more unusual varieties.
We’ll be back there soon, but first we head north. So it’ll be a return to ‘mobile blogging’ for the next week or so.
New Scarpa Infinity GTX Boots take a Mud Bath
My old Asolo Fugitives* having seen better days, I took a trip on Wednesday to the Alpenstock emporium in
The boot quest had become a little urgent, as I could do with these boots for some upcoming trips. Whether I can break them in in time remains to be seen, but tonight (Thursday) they got their first outing – a 6 km jaunt around Alderley Edge with Andrew. We were the only ones daft enough to turn out for this scheduled evening walk. It was dry and comfy in the Drum and Monkey; not so outside. The boots were ‘well muddied’ so there’s no chance of them going back. They were ‘reasonably’ comfy, and should be ok so long as the ankles don’t rub my tendons, a problem that I’ve encountered in the past (but not with the Asolos). So a few short walks with these new boots will be needed to break them in. This is a slight problem, as some longer walks are on the cards for next week; it looks as if I’ll be carrying a spare pair in the bag!
The walk started just as the overhead tap was turned on, but the rain did ease from time to time, with the moon even coming out for a while. Despite the rain and the canopy of trees, the ambient light (Andrew theorised that it all emanated from the local footballers’ security systems) meant there was no need for torches. This didn’t prevent my esteemed companion from taking a bum slide down a boggy path, causing him to reject any idea of re-entering the pub after the walk; and my muddied new boots – the only footwear I had – probably wouldn’t have been appreciated either. So it was home to an early bath!
Hopefully our forthcoming evening jaunts will be better attended. All are welcome, of course.
Scarpa Infinity report as at March 2014:
A second pair of boots was soon acquired as Alpenstock offered a very good deal on them (£99). They were comfortable from the start and hardly needed any breaking in.
The first pair is still keeping the water out and has covered over 2,400 km (1,500 miles), including two TGO Challenges, the Dales High Way, a trip to Turkey, backpacking in the Maritime Alps, and a week along Markus Petter’s Caledonian Trail route. They have been superb.
The second pair was used, as was the first, for numerous day walks, and for one TGO Challenge and a couple of weeks in the
Excellent boots. I hope that the Mustangs that succeed them will be as good.
*The Fugitives bought in October 2008 have now (March 2010) done about 1000 km and are in good condition but leaked after only a few (albeit very wet) km. The ones bought in 2007 leaked after less than 500 km, and are now starting to disintegrate after over 2000 km of use. Both pairs have been extremely comfortable.
Wednesday, 24 March 2010
Tuesday 23 March 2010 - Alpine Points of View – Comes to Stockport
Sue and I escaped to the Alps for an hour and a half last night, courtesy of Stockport Walking & Outdoor Group, who had booked Kev Reynolds for the evening.
Kev’s lecture, one of many in his repertoire, was excellent, transporting his seventy strong audience to the playgrounds of the Alps that Sue and I so much enjoy visiting (that may be obvious from sight of the little bundle of books I pulled off our shelves for today’s postcard).
This particular lecture enjoys the following trailer:
“Over a period of more than 30 years Kev Reynolds has walked and climbed in many different parts of the Alps; has lived and worked there, written more than a dozen guidebooks to specific regions, as well as Walking in the Alps - a comprehensive guide to the whole alpine range, from the Alpes Maritime to the Julians of former Yugoslavia. In this talk some of Europe's most dramatic scenery, plus its flowers, animals and villages will be displayed.”
It’s good to know that such enthusiasts as Kev are willing to travel long distances to talk about the things they love, for modest fees within the budget of smalls clubs like this Stockport one. The landlord of ‘The Grapes’ looked quite pleased as well, with such a huge influx of unexpected customers after the talk had finished.
If you run a small walking group, you could do worse than book this inveterate climber, walker and guide book writer to inject a dose of infective enthusiasm into a cold winter’s evening.