TGO Challenge 2010 - Day 7 - By the ruin of Ruighe Ghlas near the head of Loch Ericht to Wild Camp at NN 688 593 looking towards Schiehallion - I Met a TGO Challenger!

 

Distance walked: 25 km
Metres ascent: 1386
Time taken: 11.9 hours including 2.7 hours stops
No of Challengers seen: 1
No of Human Encounters: 1?

First, my apologies for the Duinish Bothy postings - only Markus Petter may understand them. Mr Knipe is understood merely to be indisposed, with a severe bout of intermittence.

Shortly after setting out this morning I came across a creature from Outer Space. It was dressed in a silver hump and ambulated using a couple of long black matchsticks. It turned out to be Wullie Clark. From Arbroath. Does that count as Outer Space? Our paths crossed for all of 30 minutes. We had a good chat. He hadn't seen another Challenger since leaving Tomdoun, several sunrises ago. He has an allotment. He (like me) likes to keep his feet dry.

Then he was gone. Disappeared into the mist. Did he really exist? His name is on the list...

The day started misty and mizzly. Beinn Boidheach was in cloud. And accessed via peat hags. I waited at the top for the cloud to clear. The GPS batteries went dead. The cloud didn't clear. I found a compass. More peat hags. They were expected. They remind me of my youth - on the North Yorks Moors. And of my adult life - walking in the Dales and the Peaks. I can do peat hags. Fun to navigate through in mist...

The summit of Beinn Mholach appeared. I waited for the mist to clear. It didn't. A phone signal? The battery was flat. I lingered in the mist, faffing with changing batteries on various gadgets that all conspired to fail at the same time.

Went down to Duinish. Saw a man in a silver space suit below. Wullie - he was heading to Loch Garry by a valley route. Duinish wasn't on his itinerary. The bothy had only seen a couple of visitors since I was there with Markus in April. There was no sign of the ghost. Nor any other sign of a visiting Challenger. Either this year or last year.

The mist cleared and I was attacked by a message from Markus and a lump of hot, humid air. Seeking respite at higher altitude I headed up a hill, Creag a Mhadaidh. It had fewer peat hags than expected. I didn't really expect to see swallows here. But I did.

Ptarmigan and both black and red grouse were also to be seen. And mountain hares.

Down to a bridge at Loch Errochty. Very pleasant in the sunshine. Ate a tin of fish. Admired dog violets and pansies, and pretty yellow flowers a similar size to milkwort but more straggly.

Lizards (or were they small snakes?) scuttled away as I disturbed the heather on the steep ascent of Beinn a' Chuallaich. My vetter said I'd be lucky to find a path up here. I got lucky. No peat hags either. The summit was about the same height as the 900 metre cloud base. So the views were interesting.

Descended to this spot (pictured) at 420 metres and with fine views across to Schiehallion, which I've enjoyed all evening.

Thus ends Part One of this year's TGOC. Part Two will be more sociable. Tomorrow the second part of today's route will be posted, and I won't be overshooting the destination as I have an inflexible end point.

Bye for now.

Duinish Bothy, where the ghost of Mike Knipe

...has left in search of Kylie - or is the ghost stuck up the chimney?

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Duinish Bothy

Where the Ghost of Mike Knipe.....

(Had you wondered why there was an intermission at 'Northern Pies?)

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Day 6 Camp

Another excellent site.


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TGO Challenge 2010 - Day 6 - By Corrour Station to NN 520 635 by the ruin of Ruighe Ghlas near the head of Loch Ericht - Sron Smeur and a Missed Trick

Distance walked: 35 km
Metres ascent: 753
Time taken: 10.4 hours including 2.2 hours stops
No of Challengers seen: 0
No of Human Encounters: 2

The predicted rain came, gently, in the middle of the night. I woke to a gloomy, mizzly world of mountains draped in cloud.

So I lay in bed and did some washing. I may have no 'Linolight' (see Alan Sloman's blog) but I can do my washing whilst still in bed. I think Alan has a 'man' to do his washing for him, and from what I can see, his Challenge is to get across Scotland using as many hotel rooms as possible and never camping for more than one night at a time..

(I'm just bitter, Alan, that nobody is being sociable on this route with no hotels - yet.)

Setting off towards Corrour Station, I discovered a path. I'd inadvertently camped on it.

The station was deserted.

Loch Ossian Youth Hostel had a few tents outside. Challengers having a lie in?

I stumbled on along a nice green lane to Peter's Rock - marked on OS maps. It's a small rock with a rather sad plaque:

In Memory of Peter J Trowell
Born Sept 1949 -- Died March 1979
At Loch Ossian
I have a friend a song and a glass
Gaily along life's road I pass
Joyous and free out of doors for me
Over the hills in the morning

My overnight temptation to traverse Carn Dearg from here, only an extra 400 metres ascent, was quelled by the low cloud, though by now it had virtually stopped raining. I'll keep the memory of my ascent on a lovely summer's day, with Nick before his globe trotting days.

There were cuckoos in the Ossian woods, but it was otherwise very calm and quiet apart from the occasional trickle of a stream under the soft blanket of cloud that cloaked the moor.

Further on, the extensive ruins of what must once have been a magnificent sight, and a hive of activity - Corrour Old Lodge. I enjoyed a second breakfast there and, on the advice of my vetter, explored the ruins. The Lodge possibly entered into disuse before the age of photography, but if there are photos, or even paintings, these would be very interesting and would certainly not feature the Blackwater Reservoir in the background.

Over the past few days I've walked on paths shredded by the recent passage of trial bikes. This fine old path, or 'mule track', as it would be known in the Alps, is a prime example. It was not, and is not, built for trial bikes. I know that it's all above board - part of an annual event based in Fort William - and that the bikers are enthusiasts, passionate about their sport, and their routes can be as challenging as many a TGOC route, so I'm reluctant to make an issue of it. It's an observation, then; the paths have been 'shredded'.

In contrast, the walk up Sron Smeur was pathless and pleasantly easy.

"You can't walk past Sron Smeur" opined my esteemed vetter.

Correct. It's a fine little hill with tremendous views to all points of the compass, with lochs and reservoirs radiating as if this were the centre of the world. Not surprising then that a phone signal miraculously appeared as I approached the summit - giving me all the more reason to linger at this special place. It was the highlight of the day.

However, I missed a trick. By blinkeredly following my planned route, and forgetting how dry it is, I missed the opportunity to take a short cut over some no doubt boggy terrain. It would have saved a lot of road walking.

Anyway, after confirming that my planned camping spot would have been fine, with the 'camping spot beside track' waymark ok in an emergency, I had lunch in the sun (not that enjoyable due to a nose bleed) then headed off down the road to Bridge of Gaur.

"Mr Ellis, I presume" - I was greeted warmly by the Challenge Friendly proprietor of the Bridge of Gaur Guesthouse, whose Linolights most definitely work. He was looking out for Les Ellis and assumed I was his man. We chatted, as a result of which my trial bike comment appears above - I wasn't going to say anything, by way of a quid pro quo for the privilege of being allowed to wild camp. But wild camping doesn't shred paths.

Then after a pre-planned call to 'Uncle Roger' at TGOC Control to confirm I was alive and well, I set off up this rather ordinary glen along a metaled estate road, to camp in another excellent spot - at 400 metres - across the river from the ruin of a two roomed house.

A heron is fishing nearby as the sky reddens. Is this a 'volcanic ash sunset'?

Martin R - thanks!

Louise - I heard you met Sloman - no doubt whinging about his Linolight. It seems to be Most Important to him at present. I hope we meet up - I still owe you a prize.

Mark - thanks - I never cease to be amazed that a 'proper writer' should be interested, especially when one blogger comments disparagingly "I prefer to write it up properly when I get home" - you never know what's going to happen next doing it this way, and it has greater 'immediacy'. Will we see you on the Challenge next year?

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Thursday 20 May 2010 - TGO Challenge Day 7 - Plan – Path Junction below Sron Smeur to Duinish

Martin’s planned route and statistics for today are shown below:

0 (Not shown) Path junction below Sron Smeur
1 Possible camping spot beside track
2 B846 road
3 Bridge of Ericht
4 Head of Loch Ericht
5 Path junction
6 Beinn Boidheach
7 Beinn Mholach (Corbett)
8 Duinish – 430 metres (NN 617 669)

Statistics
31 km
960 metres ascent
11.6 hours
(1 Corbett)

Thanks for the Comments

Thanks to those who have taken the trouble to comment. Whilst these reports are an indulgence for the benefit of my own memory, it's good to know they are appreciated by others.

The most recent batch of comments has been picked up here on the summit of Sron Smeur, a lovely viewpoint with glassy Loch Ericht in one direction and the Blackwater Reservoir in the other. Beautifully clear air, and the tops are slowly clearing. It's wonderful.

There are no other Challengers here!

Now there's a surprise...

Gibson - hope you can get out soon.

Paul - she is a little b****r isn't she!

Gayle - hope you made it through any red flags to Cape Wrath - that trip went quickly!

Any Challengers reading this: "Hello, I know you're out there somewhere!"

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TGO Challenge 2010 - Day 5 - Mam na Gualainn to NN 344 662, about 1 km from Corrour Station - Days in the Mountains don't get much better than this

Distance walked: 28.5 km
Metres ascent: 1871
Time taken: 12.8 hours including 2.5 hours stops
No of Challengers seen: 0
No of West Highland Way tourists seen: 0
No of Day Walkers seen: 5
No of Backpackers seen: 4

A fabulous day in perfect weather. If only we'd had such weather on Sunday...

I joined the nervous lemmings and headed unerringly east. Didn't see any though. There must be some close by?

After a night without a breath of wind on the high balcony of dry grass with no deer poo to be seen, it was a shame to move from such a perfect spot, but I headed over Beinn na Caillich, feeling sorry for Gayle and Mick who had missed out on this a couple of weeks earlier due to bad weather, and back down to the deserted West Highland Way, which was a surprise on such a lovely morning.

Any lingering cloud cleared as I wandered along the track to the Mamore Lodge Hotel, sadly a dilapidated shadow of its former regal splendour. The tenants had left Ann Ansell in charge as house-sitter, with clear instructions as to how to deal with the 4 kg package left outside their front door a couple of weeks ago. If she hadn't been in, it would have migrated to the back door, but that wasn't necessary, and we enjoyed a chat over a cup of coffee. Thanks, Ann, it was a pleasure to meet you.

This is Mamores country. Five Star Walking Country.

First I met Sandy and Nadia, who were steaming along in the direction of the main ridge, until they paused on a bench to admire the classic view down Loch Leven, with the Pap of Glencoe on the left. Good to meet you both, I bet you had a great walk.

Then there was Elwyn, from North Wales, picking off the two eastern outliers whilst his son was traversing the whole ridge. Elwyn would need to climb just 52 more Munros after today to gain admission to that most exclusive of places, The Munro Society.

Four English backpackers were setting off to enjoy the ridge before descending down that stern prow of Stob Ban and camping near the WHW..

So, after nearly an hour with Ann, and these three encounters all within a few minutes, I was feeling quite sociable.

I haven't seen a single person since then.

My route to Corrour took in a couple of Corbetts and a Graham. Good exercise, despite the extra 4 kg tugging painfully on my (frozen?) shoulder. Anyway, it didn't really feel any heavier than yesterday - probably only about 16-17 kg today.

Boot prints, all heading in the same direction, led me to conclude that other Challengers have passed this way. I may eventually catch them.

They won't have shared my delight in savouring the giddying panoramas from the peaks I visited, as most Challengers seem to eschew Peak Bagging in favour of Glen Slogging, which has its place in poor weather, but not on days like today.

I reached today's planned destination, Meall na Cruaidhe, around lunch time. There were plenty of spots to camp, but you'd have to collect water from a stream on the way up. The Pap of Glencoe looked exceedingly 'Papy' from here.

Glas Bheinn, with a deer studded profile, was an easy ascent, despite the peat hags, and the Graham - Beinn na Cloiche soon followed. The views from these hills are extensive - my 1:250,000 scale map was handy for confirming the identities of various mountain ranges. Wonderful panoramas to feast the eyes. The unmistakable profile of Schiehallion has appeared to the east and will be with me for days to come.

With a prediction from Sue (thanks - v helpful) that a band of rain would arrive overnight, and encouragement from Notchy from his stravaiging on Mull, I abandoned a plan to camp near the bothy by Loch Chiarain and tackled the steep ascent of Beinn a' Bhric. It turned out to be easy and pleasurable. (Most ascents are after a spell in Ardgour!)

I debated continuing until it got dark, but common sense prevailed and I descended gently towards Corrour from the final Corbett, heading off to the left to reach this excellent nook by the stream in Allt Coire a' Bhric Beag at around 7pm. My knees and shoulder chorused "thank you for stopping" even if my head didn't.

A wonderful day. There will be delirious Challengers spread all over the Highlands as they wend their ways east. If they travelled high today they will have enjoyed giddying panoramas that will long remain with them.

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Wednesday 19 May 2010 - TGO Challenge Day 6 - Plan – Meall na Cruaidhe to Path Junction below Sron Smeur

Martin’s planned route and statistics for today are shown below:

1 Meall na Cruaidhe
2 Glas Bheinn  (Corbett)
3 Beinn na Cloiche (Graham)
4 Path junction
5 Beinn a Bhric
6 Leum Uilleim (Corbett)
7 Corrour Station
8 Path junction by SYHA
9 Corrour Old Lodge
10 Path junction
11 Sron Smeur (Marilyn)
10 Path junction at 360 metres (NN 435 609) 

Statistics
29 km
1480 metres ascent
12.9 hours
(2 Corbetts, 1 Graham, 1 Marilyn)

Corbett Number 11 - Leum Uilleim (909 metres)

What? Relax on a day like this?

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The view from Corbett Number 10 - Glas Bheinn

My target has been achieved.

Now to relax?

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Tuesday 18 May 2010 - TGO Challenge Day 5 - Plan – Edge of Forest at NN 075 645 to Meall na Cruaidhe

Martin’s planned route and statistics for today are shown below:

1 Edge of Forest at NN 075 645
2 Blar a’ Chaorainn
3 Lairigmor
4 Path Junction
5 Mam na Gualainn (Corbett)
6 Beinn na Caillich
7 Junction with West Highland Way path
8 Crossing Allt Coire na Ba
9 Path junction (for ascent of Na Gruagaichean)
10 Path junction (for ascent of Sgor Eilde Beag)
11 Path junction to the south of Loch Eilde Mor
12 Meall na Cruaidhe – 558 metres (NN 249 627)

Statistics
27 km
1580 metres ascent
12.2 hours
(1 Corbett)

Beinn na Caillich

Here's the view from this morning's summit, with Loch Leven, the Ballachulish Munros, and the summit of Mam na Gualainn to the right.

There wasn't a breath of wind all night on my 700 metre balcony, and now there's just a cool, light breeze.

Excellent walking weather.

There may be a gap in transmission now, apart from the pre-loaded route details, as I'm soon venturing into wild lands which I suspect are impenetrable by Orange.

Bye for now...

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Loch Linnhe Reflections

Earlier today.

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TGO Challenge 2010 - Day 4 - Sron a' 9horra Bhuilg (NM 988 694) to Mam na Gualainn - Life in the High Lane

Distance walked: 29 km
Metres ascent: 1066
Time taken: 10.6 hours including 2.0 hours stops
No of Challengers seen: 0
No of Day Walkers seen: 0
No of West Highland Way tourists seen: 11

Thanks, everyone, for your messages/comments. Keep them coming.

Nick - following your return to Europe (news that Stuart and Maria were pleased to hear) are you up for this (TGOC) next year?

Paul - the view from this camp site is to die for. It matches the one Sue and I had of Monte Viso on our IBR trip (go on - click that label!). You'd be very happy here, as well, Sue.

Susan.... next year?

Lyn - glad you made it home. I was wondering whether you would survive the ash. It was about 3 inches thick on my tent Glad you had a rewarding trip.

Alan - thanks for your comments. It's the usual score re Challengers heading east like lemmings (see below). It's actually good to have a few challenging days in the west and catch up with the rabble towards the end.

It was with some sadness that I escaped from the wild country of Moidart and Ardgour this morning. This is wilderness of the highest order, rarely visited because the hills rise to just under 3000 feet, denying them Munro status. Perhaps this is a good thing. They rise from the sea and are finer hills than many Munros. I commend them. But take your time - don't expect to move quickly.

It was t-shirt weather this morning for my 2 km descent to a bridge and track. Even that took well over an hour - there were all the normal obstacles, plus an unexpected cliff, to negotiate.

Eventually I made it down through the wet tussocks etc, past anxious wheatears and plovers, carefully avoiding the caterpillars and small jumping frogs amongst the lousewort, milkwort and wood anemones, all clinging on to the steep crags.

Lower down, more deer scooted off, whilst bluebells and lesser celandine joined the wood anemones in their struggle to fight a way through the bracken. Butterwort is also abundant, but not yet in flower.

It was a relief to get to the bridge and end the yomping for the time being. My progress east had been slow and needed some inertia. The main road to Ardgour is single track with passing places. Not busy. There were lovely reflections of the mountains in Loch Linnhe.

I took advantage of the phone signal and caught up with some of the other bloggers. Alan and Phil appeared becalmed in Lochailort (but have since resurfaced - bloodied but not beaten), and others seemed to be nervously dashing to the east rather than savouring the delights of the western summits. This dismays me - they are missing out on so much. These are world class summits with fine routes and views. Why dash past? This comment obviously doesn't apply to those who for medical reasons are faced with an extreme challenge in getting across at all. I thought about such folk yesterday when agonising about amending my planned route. That was easy for me to do, but others don't have such options. I admire their tenacity.

I discovered why they want to work on the Corran Ferry slipways when I watched a coach leave the ferry. The back underside of the bus scraped the ground, damaging the rear end.

A pot of coffee and a huge slab of chocolate cake went down well at the Corran Inn. My first human contact since Glenfinnan.

" Why don't you go by bus?" I was asked.
"My pass only works in England; yours will only work in Scotland" I countered.
A plan was hatched. I will become a resident of Corran. He will be resident in Timperley. We will get bus passes based on those residencies. We will travel free throughout the UK. Does that make us dual nationality? And what about Wales? Is it still a suburb of England in the world of pensioners' bus passes?

I continued on my way, along a short section of the A82, fortunately lined by a pavement. Goldfinches flitted in the hedgerow and some goats paused from their munching to watch me go past.

Beyond Inchree, a spectacular waterfall, mewing buzzards and a heron overhead, and an easy track to my planned camping spot at the edge of a forest. It was an idyllic location - flat turf in a sheltered spot beside a gentle stream. But it was only lunchtime. It rained whilst I brewed up. One of those annoying showers from an apparently blue sky. I'd just applied sun tan cream.

I continued on to join the West Highland Way for a few km. Easy going. I counted 11 (I'm sad like that) tourists. Most said hello.

I passed an information board about the Battle of Inverlochy. Inverlochy is up near Fort William, so this board is at the site of the retreating Campbells, defeated by the MacDonalds in 1645, commemorating the retreat of the luckless Campbells to the soup kitchens of England.

Soon my attention was drawn to the magnificent profile of Stob Ban, as I rounded a corner leading to the ruin of Lairigmor. Then it was a final ascent to the 796 metre summit of Mam na Gualainn, about 600 metres beyond which I am ensconced in this brilliant spot overlooking Loch Leven and Glencoe, whose mountain summits are arrayed before me. Brilliant. It's a lovely evening; I'll leave the door open tonight.

(I'm a bit ahead of schedule now; this afternoon's map will follow in the morning. Sorry about that.)

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The Best View in Britain

I'm competing for it tonight!

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Monday 17 May 2010 - TGO Challenge Day 4 – Plan – Lochan near Beinn na h-Uamha to Edge of Forest at NN 075 645

Martin’s planned route and statistics for today are shown below:

1 Lochan at 690 metres
2 Beinn na h-Uamha (Corbett)
1 Lochan at 690 metres
3 End of track
4 Beinn Bheag (Graham)
5 Lochan at col 
6 Garbh Bheinn (Corbett)
7 A861 road
8 Sallachan
9 Corran
10 Corran Ferry Jetty
11 Glean Seileach
12 Edge of Forest at NN 075 645 – 150 metres

Statistics 
31 km
1533 metres ascent 
14.0 hours
(2 Corbetts, 1 Graham)

Day 3 Camp - Another Fine Spot

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TGO Challenge 2010 - Day 3 - Lochan at col below Sgurr Ghiubhsachain to Sron a' 9horra Bhuilg (NM 988 694) - The Longest Ridge

Distance walked: 19 km (according to map)
Metres ascent: 1517
Time taken: 12.1 hours including 3.25 hours stops
No of People seen: 0
Distance walked on rough, pathless terrain: 22 km (according to GPS)

The day started slowly and messily, with spillage and delay.

It had rained heavily overnight. The slabby rocks were slippery. Care required. Slow going. Showers meant more tedious faffing with waterproofs.

I can't say anything about the people I met. If it wasn't for text messages I could be alone on the planet.

After copping out of my planned route at about one third of its switchback distance, I had a choice of two long valleys down which to descend. But I chose the ridge. For its views. Not for the 700 metres of undulations. Not for the slippery rocks. Not for the peat hags. Nor the bogs. Not even for the lochan where I washed myself and my clothes (brrr) during a rare spell of sunshine. Though that was convenient.

I wonder whether this clean person will meet anyone before he gets dirty again.

Camp was delayed due to a paucity of running water on the ridge, but the tent is now positioned at 450 metres, next to a gently burbling stream, with a fine view down to Inverscaddle Bay. But as on previous nights - no phone signal.

This camp reminds me of the one below Gulvain on day 3 last year, also after a long day and with a fine view of The Ben, which was clear last year, but not today.

Tomorrow I'll rejoin my planned route at Corran, after a shorter spell than planned along a road.

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The Weather

Raining hard.

Here it comes...

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Reality Check - Bottling Out of Today's Marathon

I'm at Meall Mor. It's 11.50. I'm finding it hard to keep up with the pace dictated by my formula (planned times based on 3.5 kph + an hour for each 500 metres of ascent and 1000 metres of descent), let alone stop for sufficient rests. Long brew stops are a key feature of walks like this, and I'm not going to sacrifice them just to keep up with a masochistic route. Continuing over the next 4 Corbetts, which have scrambly sections over wet rocks, may be unwise. The weather is showery, visibility mainly good - ok but by no means perfect. There is nobody else to be seen on these knarly hills. Just cuckoos and ptarmigan for company. Those 4 hills can wait. It's a fabulous area to revisit.

So I'm bottling it and heading down over an 11 km ridge with quite a few undulations including an unplanned Graham, Stob Mhic Bheathain, which should be a good walk in itself.

I have more long days ahead. Expect further route adjustments like this one, though I don't think any of the hills ahead have risky scrambles like the ones I'm giving a miss today.

Poor signal so no photo, and bad weather looks imminent, so my decision is justified.

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Sunday 16 May 2010 - TGO Challenge Day 3 - Plan – High Lochan at NM 885 750 to Lochan near Beinn na h-Uamha

Martin’s planned route and statistics for today are shown below:

1 Lochan at Col (NM 885 750)
2 Sgurr Ghiughsachain (Corbett)
3 Meall nan Creag Leac
4 Bealach
5 Stob a’ Bhealach an Sgriodain (Corbett)
6 Meall Mor
7 By Lochan Dubh
8 Carn na Nathrach (Corbett)
9 Bealach
10 Point 803
11 Bealach
12 Sgurr Dhomhnuill (Corbett)
13 Sgurr na h-Ighinn
14 Bealach
15 Sgurr a’ Chaorainn (Graham)
16 Lochan at 690 metres near Beinn na h-Uamha (NM 911 664)

Statistics
18 km
2453 metres ascent (oh dear!)
12.5 hours
(4 Corbetts, 1 Graham)

TGO Challenge 2010 - Day 2 - Near Lochan Feith Easain to Lochan at col below Sgurr Ghiubhsachain - Sunshine and Showers

Distance walked: 22 km
Metres ascent: 1883
Time taken: 12.1 hours including 2.1 hours stops
No of Challengers seen: 1 (Robert Ridgewell - at Glenfinnan House Hotel - he started at Lochailort this morning and walked along the road to his next hotel bed)
No of Day Walkers seen: 0
No of times waterproofs on and off: 1 million (the sole reason for my tardiness)

About 9 km of today's total was along the main road to Glenfinnan, then up an empty track to Callop and a newly constructed 'motorway' (a hydro scheme) beyond Callop.

The remaining 13 km was over rough ground. It was slow going. The waterproofs situation got beyond a joke. I left them on to dry in the sun, stashed them, and seemingly within seconds it was raining again.

Again and again...

A long lunch at Glenfinnan revived me. A short chat with Robert before he retired to his room (does he eat lunch?) was followed by two old ladies joining my table. Surprisingly, we discussed the Challenge, and the Four Peaks Challenge (yes, they were rather dismissive of the 'much easier' Three Peaks Challenge, though an extra 24 hours is allowed to compensate for the inclusion of the highest peak in Ireland). This was my only skirmish with humanity all day - there was nobody else on the hills, which were mainly clear of cloud today, though the low cloud base, not to mention the showers, did hamper any efforts at photography.

It was a fine route that went more or less exactly to plan, though I did have an interesting time descending from the final summit, Sgorr Craobh a' Chaorainn. I wasn't expecting a rock climb!

Tomorrow's plan is a demanding day only possible in Perfect Weather and with an excess of energy. I don't think the latter will be tested, as the former looks extremely unlikely. The gale outside has eased, but the rain is (at 9.30pm) lashing down as vociferously as ever.

The photo is of tonight's campsite - between showers - with tomorrow's first hill in the background.

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First Sight of Glenfinnan

From Beinn Odhar Mhor.

It's a Long Way Down.

Over Extremely Rough Ground.

With Hidden Bands of Rock (aka Cliffs).

And a Sting in the Tail.

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Saturday 15 May 2010 - TGO Challenge Day 2 - Plan – Lochan Feith Easain to High Lochan at NM 885 750

Martin’s planned route and statistics for today are shown below:

1 Lochan Feith Easain
2 Beinn Mhic Cedidh (Corbett)
3 Bealach a’ Choire Bhuidhe
4 Beinn Odhar Bheag (Corbett)
5 Beinn Odhar Mhor
6 A830 road
7 Glenfinnan Visitor Centre
8 Path junction at A830
9 Leave path to ascend
10 Sgorr Craobh a’ Chaorainn (Corbett)
11 Lochan at Col  - 590 metres (NM 885 750)

Statistics
22 km
1883 metres ascent
11.7 hours
(3 Corbetts)

TGO Challenge 2010 - Day 1 - Lochailort to NM 814 789 - about 1 km from Lochan Feith Easain - The Wilds of Moidart

Distance walked: 14.5 km
Metres ascent: 1640
Time taken: 8.5 hours including 1.25 hours stops
No of Challengers seen: 0
No of Day Walkers seen: 4

Away we go...

After saying goodbye to those at the hotel, and being snapped for the album by JJ, I set off alone.

Out of 44 folk setting off from Lochailort, I seem to be the only one to be bagging the three Corbetts (mountains of 2500 to 3000 feet in height, with at least a 500 ft drop between them) immediately to the south of the hotel. Maybe they have all progressed further in an easterly direction than my paltry 5 km!

Anyway, today went well and has left me with the (I predict rare on this trip) chance for an early night.

The day started cloudy and showery, gradually improving to excellent walking weather - not too hot, very little wind, etc.

My planned route suffered an immediate amendment when I realised I'd failed to incorporate a visit to the ocean (Loch Ailort). I met two of the Americans in Russ Mannion's team who had also appreciated that particular nicety of the Challenge, but I don't know whether anyone else actually bothered to start at the coast (bar someone who was almost camping in the loch!).

There was a thin, but unexpected, path up the Allt a' Bhuiridh valley, so I took the advice of Colin Crawford (my vetter) and by-passed Seann Chruach by taking the valley path. I just about got a view from An Stac, but had to descend in mist.

Rois-Bheinn was also in mist, so there was no point in visiting its western summit. That contributed nicely to my early finish, as did the terrain, which was not as rough as I had expected. Until, that is, the final knife edge ridge of Druim Fiaclach and the following sharp descent down steep ground with randomly placed small cliffs. The key to success on the ridge was to stay on the blade of the knife - quite entertaining at times. Good views too (see snap).

I'd enjoyed lunch on the summit of my third Corbett, Sgurr Ba Glaise, after a satisfying morning's walk. Here I received a message of encouragement from Geoffrey (who I promise to visit in Macc asap) and the first of two pairs of day walkers passed by. They are the only people I saw all day.

It's a lovely evening as I gaze from the open tent down Glen Aladale to Loch Shiel, as I tuck in to my pasta and tuna dinner.

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TGO Challenge 2010 - Setting off from Lochailort on a showery morning

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Friday 14 May 2010 - TGO Challenge Day 1 - Plan – Lochailort to Lochan Feith Easain

Martin’s planned route and statistics for today are shown below:

1 Lochailort Inn
2 Seann Chruach
3 An Stac (Corbett)
4 Col at 560 metres
5 Bealach an Fhiona
6 Rois-Bheinn (Corbett)
7 Rois-Bheinn – western summit
6 Rois-Bheinn
5 Bealach an Fhiona
8 Sgurr na Ba Glaise (Corbett)
9 Lochan at 810 metres
10 Bealachan Fhalaisg Dhuibh
11 Druim Fiaclach
12 By Lochan Feith Easain – 360 metres (NM 817 792)

Statistics
16 km
1783 metres ascent
9.6 hours
(3 Corbetts)

TGO Challenge 2010 - Day 0 - Timperley to Lochailort

Left home 6.15; arrived in Lochailort at 17.15 after a smooth journey in good company.

Sue was missed - it's "hello Sue, sorry you can't be here" from lots of old friends, and "thanks for the shortbread".

The weather has clouded over as we've travelled north, after a frosty morning in Timperley. Everything seems but greener than it was three weeks ago, but it's quite dull under the heavy cloud.

Mr Sloman is, however, excessively green.

There's no picture today due to a weak/intermittent signal. But rest assured, the dull weather outside won't dampen the jollity of the evening here in the Lochailort Inn as we all stoke up in preparation for our energetic fortnight ahead.

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TGO Challenge 2010

  
The time has come…

I set off in a few hours time to the fleshpots of Lochailort, where around 40 out of a total of 300+ Challengers will be assembling before starting their walk across Scotland on Friday morning.

I’ve not had time to produce the usual web page, so my planned route will be revealed here on a day to day basis.  I’ll be setting off in a southerly direction, unlike the vast majority of those starting at Lochailort, who I suspect will be heading east.

For now, you’ll have to make do with the outline shown below; a route of 360 km (225 miles) with around 18,100 metres of ascent.  It’s highly unlikely that I’ll be able to meet this Challenge despite the encouragement of my vetter (who I thought would ‘rubbish’ my plans).  So it’s just as well that I have an alternative ‘Foul Weather Alternative’ (FWA) which comes out at a mere 320 km with only 8,600 metres of ascent.  The disadvantage is that it omits the 28 summits (2 Munros, 20 Corbetts, 5 Grahams and a Marilyn) that are included in the longer route.

Realistically, I hope to make at least 10 of those summits

Day 1 – Lochailort to Lochan Feith Easain (NM 817 792)
Day 2 – to Lochan at High Col (NM 885 750)
Day 3 – to Lochan below Beinn na h-Uamha (NM 911 664)
Day 4 – to Edge of Forest (NN 075 645)
Day 5 – to Meall na Cruaidhe (NN 249 627)
Day 6 – to Path Junction below Sron Smeur (NN 435 609)
Day 7 – to Duinish (NN 617 669)
Day 8 – to Loch Tummel Inn (NN 818 602)
Day 9 – to Watershed at NN 974 656
Day 10 – to Loch Beanie (NO 156 685)
Day 11 – to Glen Clova Hotel (NO 326 731)
Day 12 – to Tarfside (NO 491 797)
Day 13 – to North Water Bridge (NO 649 662)
Day 14 – to Montrose (NO 732 603)

My best wishes go to all the other Challengers, including the Proud Scotsmen amongst them and the various bloggers – think of them as they stand aloft Scottish peaks trying to transmit their hastily compiled words over the course of the next two weeks…

My previous three Challenges are described here, just in case anyone is interested.

Sunday 9 May 2010 – Lathkill Dale

“Let’s go to Lathkill Dale” suggested the email from Graham.

So it came to pass that a dynamic quartet winged their way, in Polly – her first outing of this nature, to Monyash.

Luckily we arrived early.  That meant we could enjoy a mug of coffee outside The Old Smithy.  It was sunny and warm, or should I say ‘warm in the sun’ (cool elsewhere…).



Six others arrived.  The route march commenced.  I know I should be in training for the TGO Challenge, so I could just about keep up.

Mike The Bus fell back.  “Only my second walk in 18 months” huff “New Camera” puff, etc, etc (I’ll try not to bore you).

Eventually we re-grouped by a field of brightly coloured flowers.

Dandelions.

Very photogenic.

The Boss had obviously fallen behind schedule as some road walking was now required.  The pace picked up again and we were soon striding into Middleton, distracted only by a hungry horse.

 
Richard tried to make a getaway, but the old Rover 100 defeated his locksmith’s skills.

It was very green by the River Bradford.

A dizzy coot watched us fly by…”why so fast?” she squawked.

We were clearly in a race against the brown trout to reach the hostelries of Youlgreave in time for lunch?

We overshot.

Suddenly we found ourselves striding on into Lathkill Dale, full of Sunday afternoon hordes. 

Surely now time for a break?  A splinter group fell briefly behind, refuelling with chocolate caramel shortbread on the hoof.  Our leader usually stops for this, but not today.

On we dashed.

“Can we stop, please?” bleated a weary soldier with a neck problem.

“Only 5 minutes, just around the next corner” was the response.

20 minutes later:

What a relief!

Afternoon – a simple solution, I just fell back and went slowly, occasionally chancing upon the route marchers who had decided to wait.

It took nearly as long to complete the afternoon’s 7 km as it had taken to walk 13 km in the morning.

We stopped to admire some flowers – they are flowering later than usual this year, but we did find one orchid by the path.


  

Tea/beer/hot chocolate/cakes all went down well at The Old Smithy, to which we had returned by 3.30, well exercised after this 20 km dash in 4.5 hours (Naismith would have taken rather longer) with 600 metres of ascent.

Here’s the route, which is not mandatory, ie footpaths to Middleton are permitted as an alternative to our rush along the roads, as is a pub stop in Youlgreave.  Lathkill Dale is highly recommended.

There’s a short slide show here.

Thursday 6 May 2010 – Hale Moss – A Circuit from Altrincham

Thursday evening saw Sue and I setting out from Altrincham station at 7.30pm on another evening walk, without Andrew on this occasion as he has absconded to Lochinver.

Turning right down Stamford New Road, we soon reached the footbridge by Barrington’s Hotel.  Over here, then down Oakfield Street, beyond which a ginnel leads into a large area of municipal parkland, including the sizeable King George V pond.

It’s pleasing to be able to walk straight into open countryside from the centre of a town, but we were soon having to concentrate hard to dodge the golf balls as we crossed an assortment of fairways, heading roughly south east along paths to the south of Timperley Brook.

This is Hale Moss and Heath, now a golf course and cultivated farm land dotted with ponds, spinneys and drainage ditches.  It was much larger until the late C19, when gorse and turf were cut by locals for use as fuels, and part of it was used as a race course.  One of the country’s earliest gasworks was built here in 1847, but only in the early C20 was the Moss and Heath largely drained and reclaimed, as the swampy stagnant pools had become a risk to both humans and grazing animals.

Paths led us past the north end of a garden centre and then on through Cheshire countryside to Davenport Green, where we joined Brooks Drive by an impressive mansion - ‘DGH’ – Davenport Green Hall – the oldest surviving secular building in the area.  It may occupy part of the site of the ‘lost’ village of Arleton, mentioned in the Domesday Book but abandoned at or soon after the time of the Black Death (1348).

Heading south towards Hale Barns, past exclusive residencies that remind me of a street of embassies in a place like Cairo, we reached the main Hale road and crossed it to bimble our way through the ginnels of Hale Barns, slowly wending our way towards the Bollin valley.

Our original plan was to go down to the Bollin before cutting back up to Hale, but given the fading light we enjoyed a more direct route via suburban streets and narrow ginnels, reaching the fleshpots of Hale village, where, on the evening of the election, various parties were in progress.  Judging by the array of vehicles parked in the streets, many costing more than the average house, these were not ‘election’ parties, perhaps more a sign of the end of the football season.  This is premier division footballers’ country.

Such local walks have much to commend them.  It’s good to explore local paths, albeit they sometimes do present an urban aspect.

We’ll be back for more, but here is Thursday’s route – 11km, 70 metres ascent, taking us 2.3 hours.

May in Timperley

It’s all a bit quiet here, just now.  My new role as a decorator leaves little time to get out and about, so readers can take a deep breath and wait for the TGO Challenge to start on Friday 14 May.

Meanwhile, the Winter Garden at Dunham Massey is currently a riot of colour.  Do get down there if you have a chance.

And here’s an early evening snap taken today in Lymm, where everything is greening up nicely, subject to some delicate splashes of orange.

Thursday 29 April 2010 – A Stalwarts’ Stroll around Tintwistle

After the previous night’s excitement of being transported back to the Drakensberg and the Cape with about 25 friendly denizens of Stockport Walking and Outdoor Group, we commenced our ‘summer evening’ walks with this easy stroll from Tintwistle around Valehouse and Rhodeswood Reservoirs.

After the usual battle to get through Mottram in Longdendale, Sue and I parked just beyond our nominated starting point, the Old Oak pub.  A text message arrived from Andrew:

“I’m in a panic – the pub’s gone!” (or similar).

I spotted him hopping around in the vicinity of the closed pub, desperate…

Just up the road, the Bulls Head provided much needed respite from the rain, good beer, and most importantly for Andrew – a loo.  The friendly locals were bemused when we told them our plans….

“What, in this rain?”

Already a quota of ‘would-be regulars’ who had specifically requested some Thursday evening walks, had wimped out.  They are ‘fair weather walkers’.

Meanwhile, the Three Stalwarts set off up to Holybank Quarry and onto open moorland above Valehouse Reservoir.  During our sojourn in the pub the rain had miraculously eased, and the skies brightened sufficiently for a record to be captured on the ‘phone (see above), the camera having been left at home.

As we rounded Rhodeswood Reservoir dusk overtook us, and in light rain there was no sign of last night’s full moon.  A quiet lane (somehow I missed the Trans Pennine Trail) led us through a farm to a bridge high above the planned Trail.  Paths through fields took us easily to Padfield and back to the cars, after a sociable 10km, 315 metres ascent and 2 hours 20 minutes, during which time Sue learnt more about the forthcoming election issues from Andrew than she’d previously known about politics in her entire life.  Gripping stuff!

Here’s the (not entirely as planned) route that we took.

Walking in South Africa, and Tintwistle

Whilst I’ve been away enjoying a Caledonian Trail, Sue has been dusting off a few slides for our talk to Stockport Walking Group on Wednesday evening (28 April).  It’s at 8 pm at Hazel Grove Civic Centre, should anyone else care to come along.

On Thursday we have our first ‘daylight’ evening walk – starting at 7.30 pm from the Old Oak in Tintwistle.  All are welcome, as always.

Attended by nearly 30 people – very enjoyable.

Saturday 24 April 2010 - Markus's Caledonian Trail - Day 11 - Annat to Fort Augustus

My fears were unfounded. A couple of j-cloths to empty every three or four hours hardly constitutes a disturbed night's sleep. The Phreerunner's seepage was minimal. Everything that wasn't already rain affected remained dry.

By contrast, Markus described his night in the TN Laser Competition as 'horrendous'. His new tent doesn't seem to have been designed for wet and windy Scottish nights, and his gear is soggy from condensation. He also worried that the river (pictured - this morning - Markus must be a 'worrier' as well as a light sleeper!)) would burst its banks (that didn't occur to me).

The rain stopped before we got up. My tent dried out, Markus's didn't. We started walking at 9am as usual, along the pleasant tracks of Glen Roy and Glen Turret. After a brief encounter with the ghost of an erstwhile TGO Challenger we embarked up the pathless slopes of Teanga Mhor. Markus said he'd never backpacked up such a steep slope. I said he must have chosen some pretty poncey routes in the past. It was warmer than of late. T-shirt weather! Though sadly a greyish haze enveloped the high snow laden peaks that surrounded us.

We made it to the top, across peat haggs that I found more taxing than the initial steep grassy slope. The peak was called. Carn na Larach (745 metres). There was nobody else there. It's an exclusive spot!

More haggs and an exceptionally boggy track led us to Glenbuck Bothy. I'm not a fan of bothies, but this one was spacious and spotless, if colder inside than outside. An empty pair of Crocs lay on the hearth. Lord Elpus? Did he make it this far?

Easy paths led down to the Caledonian Canal, where I actually applied sun tan cream for the first time on this trip. Swallows and Pied Wagtails replaced the Curlews and Meadow Pipits that we'd got used to in the mountains.

At Cullochy Lock the keeper was letting a boat through. "That's 12 today" he said, adding that he expected to log over 1000 boats during July and August.

Two hours later, after encountering the first backpackers seen by Markus on his entire trip (they were doing the Great Glen Way), we reached Fort Augustus. It was 5pm, after 24 km, 660 metres ascent, and 8 hours' walking. Plenty of time to set up camp at the new campsite (a lovely flat lawn), freshen up, and enjoy a celebratory meal at The Bothy restaurant.

That ends my 'mobile' postings for the time being, as I have to return home after this most enjoyable six day stint with Markus, whose progress you can continue to follow via the link from the home page of www.topwalks.com.

Will he get to Cape Wrath? He's nearly half way. But quite tired...

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Wh* St*l* My S*f*?

The disemvoweled voice of the ghost of Alan Sloman wafted maltily across the landscape.

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Friday 23 April 2010 - Markus's Caledonian Trail - Day 10 - Lochan na h-Earba to Annat

The wind finally subsided during the night. It was replaced by a soggy blanket that hovered over us. We woke to drippy trees and surprisingly chirpy birds.

From our 360 metre camp, whilst Binnein Shuas was clear (pictured), there was fresh snow from about 500 metres, and thick cloud over the bits of Creag Meagaidh that we could see. So the Foul Weather Alternative (FWA) was the obvious choice of route for today. A shame, but Markus is well aware that Creag Meagaidh is in the heart of TGO Challenge country, and perhaps he will return to gain the satisfaction of walking the entire ridge.

We were off again at 9, in waterproofs that stayed on all day. Dawn to dusk rain, and beyond. Dreich, I think some Scots describe days like today.

After an hour along a good track we reached last night's planned camp site. A magnificent spot by a beach at the head of Lochan na h-Earba (which actually seems to be two sizable lochs) - it would have been a bit breezy last night.

We pressed on down to the main road, pausing under some trees to take advantage of a mobile phone signal. The weather forecast confirmed the wisdom of our FWA route.

After a less than pleasant 6km along the road, we lunched at a wet picnic bench before starting the long ascent to the cairned col that separates Beinn a' Chaorainn from Beinn Teallach. After joking with two blokes descending the former (they very kindly offered us a lift to Fort Augustus), we continued on up this boggy ascent - only about 300 metres height gain, but it's hard won.

By the time we reached the cairn it was 3.40. Ahead of us was the trackless descent to join a thin path to Glen Roy.

We made it down to this sheltered riverside spot (NN 357 917) just before Annat, by 6.30. I'm partly responsible for the long time to cover a short distance as I faltered for some time at a river crossing. It looked awkward for Crocs due to depth and current issues. The way to cross was to keep the boots on and move quickly over submerged rocks with the aid of walking poles. One slip and you would be soaked. Dally on the rocks and the water would certainly fill your boots. I didn't want wet feet. I had no spare socks. Markus was using them as gloves. I eventually made it across,

I've had enough now, after another lovely meal it's time for bed. It'll be a disturbed night as, whilst condensation free, the old tent does 'seep' a little in a downpour!

It has been a Wet Day. Sorting the photos won't be difficult. There are two.

We walked 29 km, with 620 metres ascent, in 9.5 hours, to reach this stony but sheltered riverside camp at 250 metres.

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Thursday 22 April 2010 - Markus's Caledonian Trail - Day 9 - Dalwhinnie to Lochan na h-Earba

We are residents of 'Knipe Copse' at NN 495 845, by the wave lapped shore of Lochan na h-Earba. Why Markus has thus named this Des Res I don't know, but hey - it's his route, and his choice to stop about 5km short of his planned camping spot at the head of the lochan, which is really quite a sizable loch.
The rain is pattering against the tent, so it was perhaps a wise move to halt at 5.15.

It has been another good day. We were launched in splendid fashion by an excellent Scottish breakfast ("that's just one sausage, Full English is two" [HA!]) provided in the immaculate breakfast room of Eagle View Guest House. All guests breakfast around one large table - I like such places.

A dash to the bus stop, and a chat with a lady who confirmed that none of my (English) pensioner's concessions would apply in Scotland, preceded the 12 mile ride (£6.90!) back to Dalwhinnie.

So much for devolution. This Scottish lady has the same problem in England.

Markus, who had failed to pack his rucksack at the B+B, then enjoyed a 15 minute faff in the comfort of the bus shelter. He was laden with the ballast of new provisions today. So was I, but I've left the food mountain at the B+B for collection on Sunday, so my pack is lighter than when I started out on Monday.

The 10 o' clock departure was an hour later than usual. Not really a problem, we agreed as we sauntered past the Dalwhinnie Inn, which now claims to be opening on 3 May. The date changes to some random date in the future every time I pass the place. Markus had originally booked it for last night, and had struggled to get a refund when he discovered it was closed.

Leaving the road, we didn't have the bottle to venture along the old route of the Drovers Track through Allt an t-Sluic. Dogs barked wildly as we passed down the waymarked diversion beyond an angry red flag. Not good.

All that was soon left far behind, and we haven't seen a soul since leaving Dalwhinnie. Meall nan Eagan shone brightly in the sun (pictured, with Markus bottom right), before another shower arrived. We had a few of them today. I was reminded of the rough nature of that hill as we passed through the narrow defile that leads to Lochan na Doire-uaine, a forbidding place surrounded by lumpy tussocks and edged by the skeleton-like bleached corpses of prehistoric trees.

We had emerged from the defile to fine views of Geal Charn, ahead, and of the entire Creag Meagaidh ridge. Markus was impressed. He had never seen it laden with snow.

A little further on we lunched under a cold shower. Bad timing. Then it was on to increasingly sound Land Rover tracks, including one of motorway proportions, for the rest of the afternoon. We disturbed four young stags - the smallest of many herds of deer that we've seen over the past few days. A chorus of curlews joined that of the ubiquitous golden plover today, and lapwings flapped lazily over the lower slopes.

Our camp, reached in 7.25 hours after our 23 km trek with ascent of 420 metres, has a fine view of a very interesting hill, Binnein Shuas (746 metres). It looks impregnable from here.

Well, it did before it went dark.

In the meantime I've enjoyed the culinary delights of Tesco's best:

Mulligatawny soup
Pasta with mushroom and chicken flavour sauce, with added
Seared tuna fillets in a sweet marinade of red chillies, coriander and lemongrass
Banana flavoured Angel Delight
Hot chocolate

Markus, meanwhile, claims to have enjoyed his Norwegian cod and mash - all apparently rehydrated from the same packet!

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