Transalp '10 - Day 4 - 29 August 2010 - Lü to Arnoga

Route: Lü – Alp Champatsch – Pass dal Fuorn – Alp da Munt – Buffalora – Jufplaun – Lago Livigno – Passo di Fraele – Lago di San Giacomo – Trepalle – Bochetta Trelina – Arnoga (Night: Hotel Li Arnoga)
Distance: 35-40 km
Ascent: 1400 metres
Descent: 1450 metres
Time: 8.75 hours
These stats are estimates taken from 1:50000 maps where we have them, and from my watch when I remember to look at it. Times include breaks of around 1.5 to 2 hours each day.
Today was a lovely sunny one, as shown in the previous posting, but a cold northerly breeze led to our deploying wind shirts and gloves for much of the day. This didn't spoil our pleasure of stopping in high Alpine positions to admire the views and 'chill out' from time to time, as pictured - me on a bench this morning.
Today's mileage was modest, so we took our time. Our route passed through fine Alpine scenery and hardly touched any tarmac.
We ascended yesterday's descent route to Alp Champatsch, then took a high level traverse to Pass dal Fuorn, past a fine selection of late alpine flowers, including Alpine Eyebright with its miniature yellow petals, ubiquitous Field Gentians, a large (as in big-petaled) variety of 'Spring' Gentian, and numerous bellflowers, heathers and thistles, to name but a few.
The verges were frosty; the glaciated dome of the Ortler massif stood proud to the south east, and we met many walkers and a lone cyclist with panniers on this last Sunday of the main summer holiday season.
Pass dal Fuorn was busy with motorists and bikers of the engined variety, but we found a sunny table in Hotel Süsom Givè from which to enjoy views to the Ortler to accompany cappucini, nut cake and apfelstrudel.
Then a brisk descent and a short push before a glorious meandering track led to the Italian border. We stopped for a while to soak in the sun near a border stone and a proliferation of Edelweiss.
"One of the best MTB routes in the world", according to my esteemed Coordinator, then led us dramatically down a swooping zigzag path, to Lago Livigno. It was brilliant.
On the subsequent tracks to Lago di San Giacomo we met hordes of mountain bikers. We had entered the 'Transalp Biking Zone'. Apparently some 500,000 people enjoy Transalp trips every year, many of them guided.
Not many Brits, I suspect.
A shared bowl of pasta (we didn't want to spoil our appetites) at Rifugio San Giacomo fuelled us for the gruelling ascent to Trepalle and thence to Bochetta Trelina (I think).
"Where's the next map?" I enquired, when we dropped off the bottom of Wanderkarte 259T - 'Ofenpass'.
"At home" came the reply "but I know the way."
At least we have the Coordinator's overview and an A4 sheet covering our entire route, but tomorrow's mileage could be guesswork.
A fast dirt road along the edge of a precipice took us quickly to our unexpectedly expensive hotel in Arnoga, but the four course meal was excellent.
We were joined later by Hans, doing a 5-day Transalp route with a friend. They were having a good trip. Hello Hans, if you read this; I shall enjoy reading your own report.
One section towards the end of today involved a 400 metre ascent. First up a steep track that Markus managed to cycle whilst I walked. Then we both walked the final 150 metres up a cow track that should have been a footpath. Markus carried his bike over pools of slurry interspersed with bog, whilst I pushed mine. The bike is like a tank compared with my own old bike. Probably 15-20 kilos, so lifting it for any length of time is not on. I try to push it. I'm not complaining; it's a fine bike, but it may be like trying to ride a Ducati 500 after being used to a Honda 50, I suppose!
I understand there may be a bit more 'pushing' tomorrow. "Necessary for the best mountain views and to minimise tarmac sections" expounds Markus.
And I think I agree with him...

Next Posting - Day 5
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A Sunny Day in the Alps

We are taking it easy. It's a short day, so there are plenty of stops to admire views like this one, on the Swiss/Italian border beyond Pass dal Fuorn.

Next Posting - Day 4
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Transalp '10 - Day 3 - 28 August 2010 - Zernez to Lü

Route: Zernez – Susch – Ardez – Scuol – San Jon – Val S-charl – S-charl – Alp Astras – Passo da Costainas (2251 m) – Lü (Night: Gasthaus Hirschen) [As planned]
Distance: 55-60 km
Ascent: 1800 metres
Descent: 1350 metres
Time: 8.75 hours
Markus's sentence for the day:
"I am not The Boss; I am just The Coordinator."
From our window, once daylight had taken hold, I could see the mountains come and go. Outside, rain pattered in the puddles it had created on the flat roof. It was a day for Sealskinz socks and full waterproofs.
Breakfast at the Bäer (aka Bär) Hotel was a sumptuous affair, taking our minds off the hardships to come. But by 8.30 we were on the road again, splashing through the puddles on yesterday's muddy track.
On a positive note, we were heading downhill. Through Susch to Lavin, where we crossed to the north bank of the River En and rose gently on excellent cycle tracks through a series of picture postcard villages that would eventually lead us all the way up to 1700 metres before dropping steeply down to deposit us beside the river again at Scuol.
En route to Scuol we passed thus through Guarda, then above Ardez to Flan, where the prospect of coffee and cake drew us into the only café. We weren't disappointed.
A man on a bike, both covered in mud, flew past. We ventured back outside, the rain having eased to 'intermittent', for a final ascent before the plunge down to Scuol.
More bikers flew past. They were travelling light apart from the caking of mud (still only a thin veneer compared with the Calderdale Marathon!), but their presence - they were flying past every few seconds despite the fact that we (I?) were travelling at top speed - was somewhat disconcerting. They were in a race - The Swiss Naturepark Bike Marathon. The main event is a 130km off road ride, with over 4000 metres of ascent, but even though the winner takes only six and a half hours, he couldn't catch us. The short event, only some 50+km with 800 metres ascent, starts near Zernez and follows our morning's route. It was these people who were catching us. They looked very keen as they flew down to the finish at Scuol.
We had wondered all morning why crowds of people had been cheering us on. We had been leading the Swiss Bike Marathon!
After that the 1100 metre ascent to Passo da Costainas (2251 m) was positively peaceful, especially as the rain had stopped.
Lunch was taken at the hamlet and bus terminus of S-charl (pictured), at the end of a long dirt road frequented by numerous walkers and a few other bikers, including a man on a curiously clean orange bike who flew past as if we were stationary, before he slowed down and fell off.
After that, easy going on a good track then a narrow, slightly technical, path to the scenic pass, where we lingered for a while with a German biker.
Then a rocky descent - care needed, we had to dismount on some steep sections, led to a contemplative break in the sun (The Coordinator insists on these) before the final fast downhill section to our five roomed refuge in Lü.
A sociable evening and a filling spag bol washed down with expensive Swiss beer completed another excellent day.
I have to finish now as Markus has decreed "lights out".
Goodnight.

Next Posting - A Sunny Day in the Alps
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Transalp '10 - Day 2 - 27 August 2010 - St. Antönien to Zernez

Route: St. Antönien – Küblis – Klosters – Laret – Davos – Dörfji – Flüelapass (2383 m) – Susch – Zernez (Night: Hotel Bär)
Distance: 60-65 km
Ascent: 1900 metres
Descent: 1900 metres
Time: 8.5 hours
Q: "Markus, could I have a sentence from you for today's blog, please?"
A: "S**t weather; I'm a fair weather biker; roll on Italy - sunshine and dolce vita."
We started with an excellent 600 metre descent to Küblis, where the Co-op provided sustenance for the day.
Then a gradual ascent to Klosters on good bike tracks, under increasingly heavy skies. Coffee and cake in a nice café, watching cars in the road outside turning on their wipers.
Up more undulating cycle tracks, with waterproofs on and off, then definitely On. Somehow I got ahead, then missed a turn in the downpour. Usually Markus stops at such junctions even though I carry the map. Serves me right for going ahead. So I found myself on the main road to Davos on a wet day. Uphill. I been in nicer places. I could liken this to the main road from Macc to Buxton in the rain.
We rendezvoused at a station then found a restaurant. It was p***ing down outside. We stayed for nearly an hour. Option 3 was discussed, and then actioned. This involved the 900 metre ascent by road of Flüelapass (2383 m).
It took two hours. The rain eased, and briefly continued whilst the sun shone from the west. The traffic was a bit of a nuisance but we made it to the top, as confirmed by today's image.
The 900 metre descent to Susch, unrelentingly downhill for over 10km, was routine for Markus. Sue and I had envied cyclists on such descents on our recent trip to Italy. I can confirm that it's as much fun as it looks. One of the most enjoyable 10-15 minutes I've had on a bike. I tried to explain this to Markus, adding
"You just can't do this in the UK".
"The other options were much better" he retorted.
The undulating cycle track from Susch to Zernez was a bit muddy after the rain. Markus doesn't really like mud. It was a bit like the Bridgewater Canal towpath after a light shower. We have to return along it tomorrow.
"I suggest we use the road" hazarded The Boss."
A: "No!"
Anyway, we got to Hotel Bär at 5pm, a very respectable hour, so enjoyed a beer before checking in. Having dried out nicely we were both much perkier than yesterday, when the heat seemed to take its toll more than today's rain.
The hotel is excellent. We have the penthouse. The restaurant serves good food. The beer flows nicely. And there's a helpful and friendly manager.
Finally, in response to comments:
Sue - neither of us went to sleep for some time...
Paul - have a great time around Arolla, it's a lovely area.
Alan - vaseline is a wonderful substance...
Alan Sloman - Markus went searching for you tonight, he thought it was the sort of place where you would jump from the shadows, in traditional dress! (Hope all is well BTW, and "hello" from both of us.)

Next Posting - Day 3
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Transalp '10 - Day 1 - 26 August 2010 - Bludenz to St. Antönien

Route: Bludenz - Schruns – Tschagguns – Tilisunaalpe – Grubenpass (2232 m) – Partnunsee – St. Antönien (Night: Berggasthaus Michelshof)

Distance: 30-35 km
Ascent: 1800 metres
Descent: 850 metres
Time: 8.5 hours

And tomorrow's plan is 60 km with 2300 metres ascent. I wonder how we'll fare, as we are both a bit tired after today's exertions, summarised by Markus (we are sharing a room and he needs my light to go off in order to sleep so this has to be brief) as "The English mountain biker who went up a hill and came down a mountain."

In truth, after a 12km warm up on the gently rising cycle path from Bludenz to Schruns, it was quite a long, unrelentingly steep apart from one short but memorable section through some woods, gravel track up to 2000 metres. About 10 cars and 5 mountain bikers were encountered, all except one car were on their way down.

Above 2000 metres the (heavy) bikes had to be pushed and carried a further 200-300 metres to Grubenpass. A fine viewpoint with brightly lit mountains. I should have mentioned that it's been a day of high heat and unrelenting sunshine. Lesser mortals may have succumbed to heat exhaustion but we are made of sterner stuff!

The pushing and carrying continued for much of the way down, from which you may correctly surmise that the path was undulating and rough. Markus hadn't been here before. It was an experiment.

My damaged knee was painful but held out, but the 'sting in the tail' 50 metre ascent to our guest house was not really appreciated.

We do have a nice view from our room though (pictured above as I forgot to take any other blog photos today).

Right. Markus needs sleep. Goodnight.

PS Now proof read by The Boss.
"You missed the Highland Cattle, Ibex and Marmots we saw, and the fact that we have drunk gallons of liquid and you are at least as tired as I am."

Next Posting - Day 2
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Transalp '10 - Prologue - 25 August 2010 (Part 2)

4.00 pm: A bit of background: this trip came about during some correspondence with our good friend Markus, the Austrian TGO Challenger, concerning his 'Caledonian Trail' on which I joined him for a few days in April.

"Do you fancy an Alpine journey in early September?" I had queried in passing.

"No, because I'm already going on a Transalp bike ride" was the response; "You're invited!"

So, after carrying out a small test on our local canals, I accepted the kind invitation.

Now, on a Wednesday afternoon in late August, I find myself rummaging through an assortment of gear in Markus's brother's flat in Dornbirn, whilst Markus gets his office work up to date and packs his own small bag. We are staying in hotels, so don't need much. But there does seem (see picture) to be quite a bit to rummage through!

Thanks go to Wolfgang - absent on a guided Transalp bike ride - and his wife Jutta - on holiday in Thailand - for the use of their well-appointed flat.

5.30 pm: Markus returns and we head off to collect my bike. It's seven years old but after being serviced earlier today looks new to me. Markus's friend (pictured in a recent posting) has sold it, so it's this new owner, "a friend of a friend" says Markus, who is lending it to me.

Then it was off to Gasthof Gutle, by the Rolls Royce museum, for a leisurely beer, before returning to town for more carbo-loading via pizzas at the Bella Napoli. With a van outside emblazoned with the words "BBQ eat as much as you can", we could have been...well, anywhere really.

A bit of rest is now in order as we have a longer day than expected tomorrow. The mileage has more than doubled due to the railway line between Bludenz and Schruns being closed, with the replacement bus service not taking bikes.

So there will be a sting in the proboscus?

Next Posting - Day 1
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Transalp '10 - Prologue - 25 August 2010 (Part 1)

5.20 am: wake to a dewy day in Timperley.

6.15 am: have been transported (thanks, Sue) to busy Ringway Airport where security checks are much more efficient than in the past. Now happily ensconced with coffee and croissant.

7.20 am: on EZY1865 airbus, ready to leave on time (7.20). I'm next to a chatty couple who are visiting their daughter.

7.45 am: sprint down the runway, past geeky plane spotters, and up above a misty Peak District. Early visitors to those parts may have enjoyed an inversion. Rise above queues of commuters striving to get to work in the Potteries, before settling at 39000 feet, our peaceful sunlit cabin now shielded from the bustle below by a thin veneer of cloud. It's a jolly crew, and there are reassuring words from the captain; it seems normal on such flights to leave up to 30 minutes late and still arrive on time.

10.15 am: we've lost an hour to the European clock, but after deserting the cloud and starting a long descent at Paris, we disembark at Zurich with timing to Swiss watch precision.

10.35 am: Markus draws up, with Austrian precision. Only 5 minutes late!

12.00 noon: we are happily lunching outside Berghof Fetz, at Bödele, high above Dornbirn, on a lovely warm afternoon.

1:30 pm: I'm stuffed (see picture, lunch is usually toast). Is this 'carbo loading'?

Next Posting - Prologue 2
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Tuesday 24 August 2010 - Deepest Cheshire

We chose a lovely evening for our walk from the Ye Olde Park Gate Inn in Over Peover.

Andrew led us into the pub on arrival (that’s a wallet he’s holding), then rattled us along on a 9 km ramble through woodland and fields, past places of interest and antiquity.  As well as Richard and Jenny, on their last evening walk of the year due to nights drawing in and a darkness phobia, David turned up, taking an evening off from his massive garden and from playing the recorder that is taller than most men.  It was good to see you Dave.  Thanks for making the effort. 

Good timing really, as Dave was a stalwart member of our Alpine journeying team for a good dozen years in the ‘80s and ‘90s, a tradition which continues (literally) to this day.

Lush fields, a result of the sunshine and showers that dominate our weather at present…

…led to unexpected encounters.  Here we found a row of gravestones.

The farmers had been so busy in their fields that they’d failed to find time to block this particular route with their ubiquitous electric fences.

The sun set, and by the time we finished our stroll at 9.40, the moon was lighting our way quite nicely. 

Here’s the very pleasant route, which took a smidge over two hours.

Thanks go to Andrew for acting as MC, though I do think that his terms whereby I provide this report tonight were a little harsh!
[Will this goad him into working out how to make a comment?  I suspect not!]

Goodnight all…

Transalp: Schruns – Torbole

A few days ago I was the privileged recipient of a short message under the above heading.  It continued as follows:

26.08.2010

Thurs

1. Etappe

Schruns – St. Antönien

Route: Schruns – Tschagguns – Tilisunaalpe – Grubenpass (2232 m) – Partnunsee – St. Antönien (Night: Gasthaus Alpenrösli)

27.08.2010

Frid

2. Etappe

St. Antönien – Zernez

Route: St. Antönien – Küblis – Klosters – Laret – Davos – Sertig Dörfli – Sertigpass (2739 m) – Alpe Funtauna – Susauna – Brail – Zernez (Night: Hotel Bäer)

28.08.2010

Sat

3. Etappe

Zernez – Lü

Route: Zernez – Susch – Ardez – Scuol – San Jon – Val S-charl – S-charl – Alp Astras – Passo da Costainas (2251 m) – Lü (Night: Gasthaus Hirschen)

29.08.2010

Sun

4. Etappe

Lü – Arnoga

Route: Lü – Alp Champatsch – Pass dal Fuorn – Alp da Munt – Buffalora – Jufplaun – Lago Livigno – Passo di Fraele – Lago di San Giacomo – Trepalle – Bochetta Trelina – Arnoga (Night: Hotel Li Arnoga)

30.08.2010

Mon

5. Etappe

Arnoga – Val Rezzalo

Route: Arnoga – Passo di Verva (2301 m) – Eita – Baite dei Rossi – Passo della Forcola (2208 m) – Sondalo – Le Prese – Fumaro – Baita Rezzalo (Night: Rifugio)

31.08.2010

Tues

6. Etappe

Val Rezzalo – Ossana

Route: Val Rezzalo – Passo dell´Alpe – Passo Gavia (2618 m) – Pezzo – Case di Viso – Alta Via Camuna – Bochetta di Montozzo – Lago di Pian Palu – Pejo Terme – Ossana (Night: Hotel)

01.09.2010

Wed

7. Etappe

Ossana – Val d´Algone

Route: Ossana – Malga Fazzon – Rifugio Copai – Rifugio Orsa Bruno – Madonna di Campiglio – Lago di Val d´Agola – Passo Bregn del Ors (1836 m) – Albergo Brenta (Night: Albergo)

02.09.2010

Thurs

8. Etappe

Val d´Algone – Torbole

Route: Albergo Brenta – Stenico – Ponte Arche – Vido Lomaso – Rifugio San Pietro – Tenno – Riva – Torbole (Night: Hotel Villa Franca)

This all looks rather exciting.  An Alpine journey….

No mileage or ascent/descent data has been provided.  Perhaps just as well, though a piece of string on my map of Europe doesn’t produce anything too terrifying.  (20 cm, actually; and I hope I don’t need to use it for navigation as most of the above place names are absent from it.) But whilst my map is a flat piece of paper, it does have some rather heavily shaded areas between the two points!

A call to a physio (carefully selected via Google) to discuss the recent damage to my knee provided the necessary comfort… “sounds like a torn cartilage, but you shouldn’t make it any worse; just try to ignore the pain – enjoy your trip.”

So a bag is being packed, batteries are being charged, and the next few entries on these pages will be from ‘on the road’ which I know many people prefer.

This will be quite an adventure.  I’ve not been on such a trip for over 30 years.  I’ve just failed in a search to illustrate this posting with an image from that trip, so instead there’s a picture of the transport I’ll be using this time (rather different to what I used 30+ years ago).  I’m hoping that the owner is staying at home on this occasion!

Next Posting – Prologue 1

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Sunday 22 August 2010 – A Chance Encounter

“Hello Martin” said the voice under the baseball cap.  “I’m Jamie”.

A glamorous lady sidled up… “Who’s this?” she enquired.

”It’s the Postcard” explained Jamie, after introducing Nicky.

I’ve been following Jamie’s ‘Trekking Britain’ blog and website for some time, and he has been following these pages and even on occasion the actual footsteps described herein.  So I think we feel we know each other quite well.

It was just as well that I hadn’t loaded the ice cream for the evening’s BBQ until after our chat in Sainsbury’s frozen foods aisle.  It could have melted.

Here are Jamie and Nicky, on the top of Blencathra earlier this year – probably a more likely venue for a chance encounter than a supermarket!

It was a lovely to bump into you, I’m glad you spotted me.  We should meet up for a walk or a ride sometime – feel free to email me using the ‘Contact us’ button here, Jamie, and I’ll try to let you know of any short notice activities that may interest you both.

In the meantime, have a great honeymoon.

[I hope you don’t mind me using the above photo, especially as your baseball cap seems to have blown away!  Or was it being used as a tripod?]

Saturday 21 August 2010 - A Family Day Out

Here they are, 52 members of Sue’s family at Charlecote Park.

The rain held off, just about, and everyone seemed to enjoy a great day out.  It’s an ideal venue for a ‘mass picnic’ on the old cricket field.

Sue took lots of photos which she will set about processing and distributing to family members once I’m off the computer.

A link to a Picasa album should follow at some point.  The family tree will also be updated, though some of this may by-pass the blogosphere for reasons of privacy.

Layered Crunchy Summer Pudding

Last night we enjoyed this lovely dish together with Andrea and Thomas, our valiant house-sitters.  We hope they enjoyed the treat, which after a champagne, olive and stuffed pepper start, moved on to crab, melon, cucumber and watercress salad with a dressing of ginger, lime, mint, olive oil and sugar.  Delicious.  Thanks go to Nigel Slater for that – June 24 in his Kitchen Diaries.

Our main course was from the same source – August 7 – grilled Fleetwood monkfish with rosemary, served with garlic mayo, accompanied by green beans, stir fried cabbage and mushroom, and pan fried new potatoes.

The Layered Crunchy Summer Pudding that followed reminded me of one of the desserts I enjoyed at the Loch Tummel Inn when I stayed there in May, on the TGO Challenge.  It was delicious.  Here’s how Sue concocted it (for 4 people):

FOR THE MELBA TOASTS
6 slices of medium-cut white bread, veering towards being a little ‘tired’
icing sugar, for dusting
FOR THE FRUIT SAUCE
140gm mixed strawberries and raspberries
35gm icing sugar
1 tbsp raspberry or strawberry jam, at room temperature
FOR THE FRUIT
170gm raspberries
340gm strawberries, hulled
FOR THE SWEET CREAM
100ml double cream
35gm icing sugar
1 vanilla pod, halved and seeds scraped (optional)

1.  Heat oven to 180C/fan160C/gas4.  Line a baking sheet with greaseproof paper and dust well with icing sugar.  Toast the slices of bread, remove the crusts, then cut through the width, splitting each into two very thin squares.  Scrape away any excess crumbs from the untoasted sides, then cut each slice into a 7.5cm disc using a cutter, so that you have 12 discs.  (A scone cutter can be used.)

2.  Place the discs, untoasted side up, on the baking sheet.  Dust the tops generously with icing sugar.  Cover with another sheet of greaseproof paper, then top with a second baking sheet.  This will prevent the natural curl of the melba toasts when exposed to heat.
(Do this in batches with the bread fully flattened between the baking sheets.)

3.  Bake for about 12 mins, or until dry, crisp and golden.  Remove from the oven and transfer the toasts to a cooling rack.  Dust 4 of the melba toasts with more icing sugar and grill-mark with a heated skewer to create four lines, then do this again at a different angle for a criss-cross finish.
(For a heated skewer – Sue used a cake tester – hold one end of it over a gas flame until very hot, or heat under a hot grill.  Beware of burns.)
The toasts can be made 1-2 days ahead and kept in foil or an airtight container to retain their crispness.

4.  Place all of the sauce ingredients in a blender and blend until puréed.  Strain through a sieve for a smooth finish.
This can be made up to 2 days ahead.

5.  Arrange the raspberries and strawberries around the edge of 8 crisp melba toasts, trimming the strawberries at the hulled end to give a level height.  Place the trimmings and any remaining fruits in a bowl and crush to a chunky purée with a fork.  In a separate bowl, softly whisk the double cream, sugar and vanilla seeds.  Stir in the crushed fruits.

6.  Spoon a dollop of cream into the centre of each toast.  Place one toast onto each plate then top with another one.  Continue to give 4 stacks, topping each with a skewer-marked toast.  Drizzle sauce around, offering any extra sauce separately.
(Sue made the bottom layer with strawberries, the second layer with raspberries, and by some standards flooded the plates with sauce, but it was absolutely delicious.)

And I’ve just realised why it may be similar to the dessert I had at Loch Tummel – their dessert chef trained under Gary Rhodes, and this is based on one of his recipes.

Shame about the lighting in the picture, but Thomas was desperate to tuck into his pud!

Wednesday 18 August 2010 - Visiting Oscar

Introducing Lord Oscar of Osborne (aka Oscar Milnes), Kate and Simon’s new ‘baby’.  So I have a ‘Granddog’?

Sue and I visited him the other day.  Sue took the easy route.

I took the cycle paths – to Stretford beside the Bridgewater Canal, then beside the River Mersey to Simon’s Bridge in Didsbury.

Shortly before leaving the river bank, I passed this sad sight in Northenden.

Below, is Simon’s Bridge, linking Northenden with the more affluent suburb of Didsbury.

From here I tried to follow the Trans Pennine Trail, but tram line workings (perhaps the trail has been taken over by a new tramline project - not a bad thing) and confusing signage, with a few missing signs in the scally zone of Brinnington [that’s a first – blaming scallys for my pathetic map reading skills!] hampered my efforts.

I was on the route (briefly) at this spot in Heaton Norris…

…and here in Reddish Vale.

Here’s confirmation…

…and this tunnel in Brinnington is definitely on the route.

The off-route excursions were mainly through housing estates, and along a busy but thankfully downhill main road between Brinnington and Haughton Green.  Here I regained the trail beside the River Tame and enjoyed my lunch at a picnic bench before continuing on to encounter Aussie Chris and his Belgian girlfriend, pootling along on their way from Lands End to John o’Groats on their heavily laden steeds almost as vintage as my own.

Here, tall barges may easily navigate the lift bridge, but could come a cropper on the pipe line!

The Peak Forest Canal, part of the Cheshire Ring Canal Route, sports a selection of Information Boards, Dukinfield’s contribution being this plaque to David Livingstone’s mother-in-law, bless her soul.

There’s lots of industry around Dukinfield, where the River Tame runs along beside the canal.

I turned right at the canal junction, headed towards Stalybridge, and left the towpath too soon.  Then I became stranded on a horrific traffic island between Ashton and Stalybridge.  It housed, amongst other things, a bus station.  After a couple of laps I spotted an underpass that provided a partial escape route, leaving just a scary dual carriageway to negotiate.

Soon, though, I was to be seen heading north up Ridge Hill, ascending into the Pennines. pausing near Hartshead Pike to admire the flatlands of Greater Manchester some 150 metres below.

Up at Scoutshead, The Old Original (“renowned for the best steaks and grills in the area”) looks a nice place to visit.

But not today.

There’s a very pleasant view from here across the Pennines to the northern ramparts of the Peak District.

Here’s today’s route – 52 km, with 800 metres ascent.  It took me a little less than 5 hours, including stops.  I was slowed by the realisation of the fact and the resultant discomfort – from last Friday’s ‘vineyard sprinting incident’ which appears to have torn a cartilage that is sensitive to cycling, especially uphill.  Ho hum!

I finally reached my destination in Sholver, north of Oldham, where Sue was already cuddling the good lord, Oscar.

Tuesday 17 August 2010 – Around Keckwick

Today we had planned to stroll from Bury to Ramsbottom along the route that we abandoned (without setting off) last Thursday evening due to a monsoon hitting north Manchester.

But the local Metro tram was out of order, so we headed out to junction 11 on the M56 in less time than it would have taken to pick up the Metro in Old Trafford.

Turning right from the motorway, we headed north towards Daresbury for a mile before turning left opposite the turn to the village and left twice again to double back to a dead end.  We could have parked in Daresbury, perhaps at the Ring o’Bells (SJ 579 829), but we weren’t in need of sustenance.

After a reasonable amount of recent rain, the hedgerows are lush with growth just now, with lots of yellow and purple flowers.

A short way down the lane a timber-lined entrance led left up steps onto Keckwick Hill.  Amidst all the bracken are a few picnic tables.

It was a sunny afternoon, with light shining prettily through the canopy.

The lush deep greens of late summer have been joined by the succulent clumps of berries that are the precursors of Autumn.

Various signs direct you to a viewpoint where an information board, as part of the Timberland Trail initiative (the trail passes through this area) describes the view, which today was obscured to some extent by summer foliage.  There was a good view of the Runcorn-Widnes Bridge, though.

Retracing our steps from the viewpoint, after a few metres a left turn took us down to Delph Lane, after passing through the area known as the Daresbury Firs, a fairly recent fir plantation, the original one having been felled shortly after WW2.

Our route turned left up Delph Lane, passing a new house on the left which could well be owned by a footballer.  No doubt a fine old house has been demolished to make way for this slatey monster (you’ll have to go there to see it for yourselves).

We took the first right, along a track to Crow’s Nest Farm, which could probably do with some attention.  At least the slatey house was in pristine condition.  A left turn in the farmyard led to a field path (below), following stiles and waymarks, and peering in at workers in an office complex, to Red Brow Lane.

Turning right down the lane, we soon dropped steeply through a gorge, where the damp walls were covered with mosses, liverworts, ferns and lichens.

After passing under the Bridgewater Canal, a right turn led up steps onto the towpath, where we turned right again.

More lush vegetation adorned the towpath.

 

Damp berries drooped from heavily laden branches.

A barge full of youths being educated steamed past.

We strolled on, towards the M56 motorway, turning right just before the motorway bridge, across the old wharf to the Marina Village.

This is ‘Bridgewater Way’ country, and its signs can be followed.  Basically, a right turn leads through a new housing estate, from where a further right turn leads back to the canal edge opposite the Marina.

The Bridgewater Canal, after it has deserted the main ‘Cheshire Ring’ route, continues on towards Runcorn.  A bridge leads over the canal and the towpath continues on the right hand side.

A heron was fishing, and a mallard family were sunbathing, as we progressed along the towpath, under a couple of bridges, to Norton Town Bridge (the first bridge after a railway bridge).

The sky had been darkening, despite the sunshine.  Now the buzzards buzzed off and it started to leak.  Turning right at Norton Bridge, a footpath along a farm track passes much ‘Private Land’ before passing under two railway lines on its way to rejoin the canal.

The distinctive flower heads of the Tansy filled the soggy undergrowth in the vicinity of the canal.

A left turn, and we were on the last lap, heading along the towpath towards Keckwick in the drizzle.  On the other side, various picnic benches and a covered area in the grounds of Daresbury Laboratory filled our view, beyond which the next bridge provided our exit from the canal and the road back up to the car, past the nuclear physics research laboratory, the first part of which was opened by Harold Wilson in 1967. 

Most of the buildings look much newer than that, and the huge concrete tower, built much to the disgust of the locals, dates from 1975.

This is a 2 hour walk of 8 km (5 miles) with 120 metres ascent.  It passes through a nice selection of countryside and is easily reached within 30 minutes from Timperley, so is a good venue for a short jaunt from south Manchester.

Enjoy!

Dunham Massey on a Monday Morning in August

I know.  We’ve been here before.  But I wanted to try out the dinky new camera again, even though I bought it for use in the rain and on the bike.  This morning was neither wet nor wheely.

The rest of the album is here.

Thanks go to Julia for deciding to ‘holiday’ in Timperley and getting us out on such a lovely morning.  The 23 images in the album were taken in the grounds and the gardens of Dunham Massey on this mid-August day.