Manchester Town Hall

Looking splendid tonight!

Martin’s Grand Scottish Tour – April 2015

This posting fleshes out those made over the past few days and provides maps of my walking routes. There’s also a slideshow of 64 images, here.

Anyway, after straining something at the Penrith parkrun early on Day 1, I was a sorry sight limping up Hill of Persie before heading on to Braemar.

It was a very rough 5km, with 240 metres ascent, taking an hour and three quarters.

Day 2 – here I am on top of Blath Bhalg.

This was a good circuit, much better than the ‘guidebook’ there and back route. There were good views between the snow showers.

It’s 9 km with 390 metres ascent, taking two and a half hours.

Day 3 – from Bridge of Gaur I set off alongside Loch Rannoch before heading to Dalwhinnie.

Today’s walk was an easy ascent of Creag Ruadh – 12 km, with 400 metres ascent, in about 3 hours, before heading on to Newtonmore Hostel.

Day 4 – a driving day, with lots of deliveries and no time for a walk, but with good views of the Cairngorms across Loch Morlich.

Day 5 – from Ford, I went home via the Rest and be Thankful Pass, before which is this fine bridge at the end of Glen Fyne.

There was time to pop up Hods Hill, on the Southern Upland Way near Moffat. Here’s a view towards Daer Reservoir from near the summit.

It’s an easy route – 8 km with 300 metres ascent, in about two hours. I didn’t realise you could walk up the road to the end of the reservoir to join the SUW, which goes across the dam.

So that’s it, a successful trip with some good walks in between deliveries and 1100 miles of driving.

The slideshow is here.

Friday 3 April 2015 – Cases de Betlem and sa Talaia Freda

This is an entry from Sue. I’ve spent hours trying to post it from Nallo Lady, but have only succeeded in deleting her from the list of authors and I’ve been unable to re-invite her, so it looks as if her postings will have to be in my name for the time being…

A somewhat belated report on my walk but stimulated by a wish to share a stunning day in the hills of Majorca.  With Martin cycling with Robert and Lyn, I was free to select a grade A+ walk (defined in the guide book as a “strenuous walk, often pathless in places and on rough ground, with considerable route finding and/or some scrambling.  Normally only for experienced walkers. A+ and A++ are particularly difficult”).

After an hour’s journey dodging the multitudes of cyclists, I left the Panda at the Cases de Betlem parking area north of Arta to start the 10km circuit. I didn’t get far (perhaps just 200m!) before being distracted by orchids which I hadn’t seen before on the verges. Finally I was able to motor along the track pictured above until a right turn saw me climbing the hill.

Where the path ended, the scent of hay rose from the cropped grass and a small stream meandered down, fed by a spring and lined with Palm fans.

Here, the tap water was emptied out of my bottle to be replaced with spring water. The hill was covered in bright yellow gorse, in low, round clumps, and white-flowering asphodel. Small cairns led the way upwards, partly using a dry stream bed. It was rough and covered in vegetation – long trousers were definitely needed, despite the warmth. Higher up, the line up the cliffs wasn’t clear, but was confirmed by a cross, i.e. Not this way! My route was perhaps not the easiest I could have chosen, but a thrutch up the rock brought me out at a col at 330m, with Puig de sa Tudossa and its prominent masts to the left. As I climbed, seagulls squawked noisily above and I wondered if they were nesting in the cliffs. With the main difficulties over, I had a pathless but straightforward walk along the escarpment edge, with views across Alcudia bay.

Just before the trig point of sa Talaia Freda, 564m, more new orchids, just 3 inches high or so.  This species is still to be identified!

As I lunched at the trig point, a yellow swallowtail butterfly flitted around the summit rocks for a few minutes before flying off like a small bird, and a kite, with it's forked tail, also flew overhead. The view was fairly hazy to the south.
Just as a Spanish family arrived, I left the top, to descend steeply to reach some pinnacles and gain another small summit, with a cross and good views down to Betlem and the Alcudia bay. A wide stony path led down, and I was now meeting several groups of people.

The path brought me out at the font near Ermita de Betlem, where I watched a group of locals filling large containers from the spring. Just beyond here was a stand of bee orchids, quite overlooked by those passing by. The Ermita was peaceful, with white walls but a lovely painted ceiling, and a grotto with stalactites hanging from the limestone above behind the alter held the nativity scene.

Another 45 minutes or so downhill brought me back to the start where the car thermometer read 22C.

After an evening meal in the main square in Pollenca, we joined hundreds of spectators lining the 365 Calvari steps, for a torchlit procession in which the body of Jesus is brought down. A slow rhythm was beaten by drums which gave it solemnity.

The hush during the procession was palpable. Both adults and children participate, dressed in robes, a different colour for each church taking part. It starts around 9pm and takes about one and a half hours for all the participants to file down the steps. 

Wednesday 29 April 2015 - Hods Hill

This prominence on the Southern Upland Way is reached easily from Daer Reservoir, a short distance from Watermeetings near the M74 motorway in the Moffat area.

I had started walking by late morning thanks to an early start. I didn't hear Alison go out, but unless it was her hologram that served my bacon buttie at Lochgilphead petrol station at 7 am she must have left quietly whilst I was dead to the world.

The highlight of the first part of today's journey was meeting a penny farthing cyclist beside Loch Lomond. Very impressive! 

It was good to escape from the rain and the spray on the M74 for a couple of hours for this 8 km stroll under a thick cloud and a (literally) watery sun. As previously on this trip my selection of a summit of modest stature - 569 metres in this case - gave me a cloud free experience in pleasant surroundings. A view from near the summit, taken in between energy releases from an Arctic sleet blasting machine, is shown in the top image. Not shown are the ghostly rows of nearby wind turbines, mostly silent and unmoving despite the breeze.

The bottom picture, taken near the Rest and Be Thankful pass, was inspired by Alison's 'on hold' Bridge photography project. She spent 2014 posting a picture of a Flowering Plant every day; this year it's 'The Natural World'. Her pictures are excellent and she reckons the process has significantly improved her photographic skills. Well done Alison, and thanks for putting me up and feeding me last night. 

The weather improved as I pottered on in a southerly direction, arriving home by 5.30 pm after a satisfying and successful little 1100 mile trip, on which it was great to spend a bit of time with a variety of friends as well as climb a few hills that were new to me. 

Newtonmore to Ford

After  a visit to the house with the turret, Glenmore was my next target, packages six and seven being delivered to the Youth Hostel there. Down by Loch Morlich, overnight snow had resulted in a very white view of the Cairngorms, pictured - top.

Then it was on to Aviemore for coffee, and package eight to Vermont Guest House.

Cannich, Drumnadrochit, Fort Augustus and Spean Bridge all successfully accepted further deliveries, leaving the car boot bereft of all but Saturday's batch of library books - still on their long journey from Dunkeld to Nantwich. 

By now it was mid afternoon - time for coffee and a new book from Nevisports in Fort William. 

There wasn't really time to go home, so I enjoyed a scenic drive past Appin to Oban, and onwards past Loch Feochan (pictured - bottom) to Ford, near Kilmartin. There, Alison did me proud, with a lovely meal. It was great to catch up, three years having passed since Sue and I passed through on our 2012 TGO B&B Challenge. 

There's a blackcap in the garden, and a cuckoo nearby.

Monday 27 April 2015 - Creag Ruadh

After a leisurely start on a sunny morning I made my way past red deer and red squirrels to Dalwhinnie to dispose of package number five and test the new café that has emerged from the shell of the old hotel. Passable, but the bunkhouse café on the road to the station is much better.

Today's hill was another easy one, conveniently accessed from the aqueduct reached from Cuaich - a short way from Dalwhinnie on the Newtonmore road.

After an easy stroll with the breeze behind me to the small power station at the end of a big green pipeline, I skipped across Allt Cuaich and up the gentle slopes to the north east, reaching the 658 metre summit at the same time as a wintry squall. 

Lapwings, golden plovers and wheatears had monitored my progress whilst grouse with bright red combs strolled boldly in front of me and piebald hares scooted off into the distance. I've heard no evidence of cuckoos though others have spotted them.

As on my last two outings, I saw no other walkers today - just a couple of estate workers. 

After lounging on the summit in a snow storm I continued ENE along the broad ridge above Coire Riabhach, gently descending 100 metres before dropping sharply down another 200 metres to the track beside Loch Cuaich, avoiding some rather nasty looking boulder fields.

From there it was an easy 6km walk (despite a squally headwind) along the track back to the car, the whole walk being a shade over 12km and taking a little under three hours.

Coffee in Ralia café whilst I composed this entry and watched the snow fall outside preceded a visit to Newtonmore Hostel and the pleasure of an evening with Ali and Adrian and Ellen.

Top picture: Creag Ruadh summit 

Lower picture: Schiehallion from Loch Rannoch

Sunday 26 April 2015 - Blath Bhalg

This modest hill is easily climbed from the Dalnacarn area in Glen Brerachan on the A924 road between Kirkmichael and Pitlochry. 

Today I parked up for a while before starting out, in an effort to avoid a hail storm whilst listening to Radio 5's London Marathon commentary in between distressing news bulletins following the major earthquake in Nepal.

My day had started with a trip to Ballater, past glittering snow laden Lochnagar and lines of variously coloured daffodils on the approach to  the town, and a friendly reception at the caravan park. They remember Lynsey, for whom I was delivering a package, and are looking forward to the TGO Challengers coming through in three weeks time.

A pot of tea and a fruit scone at The Bothy (Challengers may prefer the full breakfast) set me up for an easy day, with only a couple of deliveries, leaving plenty of time for the easy stroll up Blath Bhalg from Glen Brerachan.

After yesterday's pathless route, I was pleased to find a good stalkers route all the way to today's summit, which after a snow storm had cleared afforded good views in all directions. In a way the snow was quite helpful as it made the path show clearly as a white line stretching into the distance.

After a while on the 671 metre summit I took a different route down, heading over rough ground to a lunch hut and then taking the good path down to Dalnacarn from there. 

After a quick look at the nearby war memorial and a stroll back up the road, I was in the car and on my way to Biba café in Pitlochry for soup and tea.

Today's easy walk amounted to about 9 km with 300 metres ascent, taking about two and a half hours. Curiously, it was my snowiest walk in the UK this year! 

Then it was simply a case of enjoying the delightful drive past Queen's View, Loch Tummel and Loch Rannoch, to visit our good friends Eddie and Heather and Thomas at Bridge of Gaur Guest House. The lateness of this posting - mostly written in Pitlochry - is a reflection of their hospitality. 

Disappointment of the day - running out of The Bothy to avoid spending  £128 on a rather attractive sastrugi picture that may not have fitted in our house! (I should have bought it.)

Today's pictures:

Top - a view from the summit of Blath Bhalg 

Middle - Lochnagar from the A93 near Ballater 

Bottom - the path to the summit before the snow storm 

Saturday 25 April 2015 - Hill of Persie

The Hill of Persie rises gently to the left of the A93 road just north of Bridge of Cally. I wouldn't say it's a 'fine' hill, but it provided me with a bit of exercise on a day of 343 miles on the road. 

My route card (lost en route so I can't refer to it) said it was a 3 km round trip, but after turning back after 100 metres due to an ankle rub from new boots, my trainer clad feet had recorded 3 km by the time I reached the corner of a wall that marks the summit. It's pictured above.

Conditions were fairly dry, though I was told later that there had been a  blizzard here whilst I'd been enjoying coffee and cake in Dunkeld, from where I'd been commissioned to collect some library books and jewellery. So the trainers didn't get as wet as they had done earlier in Penrith. I had failed to drive past the attractions of a parkrun there, despite a brisk westerly and driving rain. It was probably a mistake to break my journey in that way as I aggravated an old injury that has resulted in a sore buttock and an old man's hobble.

The Hill of Persie brought back to me the vast difference between walks on random Scottish hills and Lake District rambles along professionally manicured pathways that present minimal problems. So on today's pathless terrain, including a hidden 'clash' - a deep gash in the hillside - great care was needed to avoid traps such as holes, bogs, and impenetrably deep heather. The middle picture is a view from the summit. 

The wild flowers were in good form today, with lots of primroses (pictured, bottom) and a smattering of wood anemone, wood sorrel and wood violets.

I arrived in Braemar at 6.30 as planned and after installing myself at Thornbank Cottage - thanks Simon and Kat - I soon located Kate at Rucksacks Braemar to deliver JJ's trunk.

Haddock and chips and a pint of Cairngorm Gold, together with excellent bread and butter pudding, rounded the business end of the day at Gordon's. 

Thursday 23 April 2015 - Martin's Mini Plod - Suitable for Tortoises

This was billed as a morning walk for more dilapidated members of the East Lancashire Lodge of the Long Distance Walkers Association. By no means a ‘Long Distance Walk’!

“Meet at Bury Metro Station (SD 804 105) at 10.30 am for a muddled (perhaps muddied) route via Greenmount to the Hare and Hounds in Holcombe Brook.” said the flier, “approx 10 km (6 miles)”.

And so it was, apart from the mud. We even failed to miss any turns or manage a ‘Martin’s Meander’ – apart from an enforced diversion due to a path closure.

From Bury Metro terminus we soon found our way past nesting swans to a bridge over the Irwell. Here’s the view towards Bury. All very green and fresh, despite being a few metres from the town centre – but can you spot the shopping trolley?

Soon after a tea and cake break by the pedalling cyclist (pictured above) and his two henchmen (Laurel and Hardy), we abandoned the easy stroll along the disused railway in favour of some ducking and diving beside Kirklees Brook. Here’s today’s team, including John’s mate, Les, who hadn’t been for a walk for six months and had been told it would be three miles on the flat! Whatever is the LDWA coming to?!

Much to my surprise, we managed to stick to my convoluted plans until reaching a barrier near Tower Farm. Work was clearly under way, so we headed off in another direction.

That led to a slither down a bank with good handholds (roots) and a splash across the Brook. I think we all kept our feet dry though, and there was certainly no mud after a couple of weeks of fine weather, though the lesser celandine, butterbur, forgetmenots and other flowers were rampant.

Those of us who take part in the ‘Two Crosses’ challenge walk recognised the view below – the viaduct at the end of the reservoir is crossed near the end of that 26 mile walk.

My planned route passed right next to Tower Farm, but the diversion took us a little further from it. The tower looks recently refurbished.

Nearby, an emu seemed to be enjoying slightly squalid conditions.

Across the railway and around the golf course at Greenmount, the temperature rose and the Peel Tower above Ramsbottom drew closer.

Now we were well and truly on the Two Crosses route in reverse. I hadn’t noticed this when planning the route, so it was rather odd to find we were walking on familiar paths. It was a glorious summery day.

Soon we reached Redisher Vale, where we left the Two Crosses route that descends abruptly down the bank pictured straight ahead.

The area is full of industrial heritage. Here we passed a barrier that may have been part of a water power installation.

Slightly more recent, this Massey Ferguson TE35 Gold attracted Alan’s attention. Perhaps he built it?

After 10 km and 2.5 hours or so we came upon the Hare and Hounds at Holcombe Brook at 1pm – time for a welcome beer and a bite to eat in the garden, after as pleasant a morning stroll as you could imagine.

Here’s our rather convoluted route:

After lunch, the two Johns and Les sidled off, and Alan and I took advantage of the wonderful weather to stroll back down the disused railway line to Bury.

Crossing the bridge pictured earlier beside the reservoir, young mallards were scooting energetically below us – a handful for their mum, and the first mallard chicks I’ve seen this year.

The town centre of Bury had a holiday feel to it, with people lazing in the sunshine near the impressive memorial to Robert Peel.

We hastened past, to return to the Metrolink and our tram back to Manchester.

Here’s our 7 km route, taking an hour and a quarter.

Thanks for your company, folks. That was an excellent little outing.

Tilley Endurables Limited

I wrote about ‘A Tale of Three Tilleys’ on 1 March 2010. That posting contained images of my old Tilley hat, and a bright shiny new one provided by Cotswold. The new one looked identical to the hat shown above on the left. To its right, and below, is that same hat (the one pictured as new in 2010), now looking like the five year old hat pictured back then.

Last week I trotted back to Cotswold with the worn out hat. Unfortunately they were unable to give me a new one. This time they referred me to Tilley’s website. How times have changed! But not that much. It was easy to locate and print the requisite returns note and put the hat in an envelope to Tilley Endurables Limited together with a cheque for £6 for postage and packing.

The hat on the left arrived by return of post.

If I survive another five years, I have little doubt that the hat on the left will look like the one on the right, as each of my previous three hats seems to have lasted just about five years before disintegration has set in. Had I needed to buy the replacement it would have cost me £65 (up from £51 five years ago).

A big thanks to Tilley, therefore, for honouring their lifetime guarantee for the third time. This really should be some comfort to those shelling out £65 for their first hat. You can do it in the knowledge that the one-off payment will secure ‘a hat for life’, even if it may occasionally need replacing free of charge if it wears out.

The hat, by the way, is an excellent product – an item I wouldn’t be without for summer walking. The best you can get.