Tuesday 3 June 2008 - A Cream Tea Day - Hostel with Character to Dalegarth Guest House, Buttermere

Distance - 15 km
Ascent - 1028 metres
Time - 8 hours 40 mins including 2 hours 20 mins stops

Black Sail Hut, pictured above, has a rich history.

All I have time for here is mention of the following plaque in honour of
"Chris Brasher, 1928 - 2003.
Olympic athlete, mountaineer, journalist, businessman and philanthropist.
A lifetime of love and support for outdoor sport and the world's wild places.
A benefactor to the YHA and outdoor activity in the Lakes.
Spent his last night hostelling, with friends, at Black Sail on 29 June 2002 - 'a disgraceful episode at which we devoured 14 different curries and consumed nine bottles of good Australian wine.'"

Much more could be said about Chris Brasher, and perhaps about 'Mad Pete', the creator of all those curries. Our closest connection on the day seemed to be Lucy's dad, who apparently relates a tale of exhaustion in trying to keep up with the ageing Brasher on a hill walk.

Notchy snores. So it was ironic that Mark (aka Hebden) kept him awake last night.
'It wasn't me!' Notchy asserted.
'It was both of you' retorted Gary.
I kept quiet. I had heard nothing. Had it been me all the time?

We waved goodbye and headed off through clouds of midges in search of Wainwright's final resting place, Innominate Tarn on Haystacks. This was for Sue2's benefit. She limped along, the previous few days having taken their toll.

On the summit of Haystacks

A backpacker who had spent the night at Blackbeck Tarn - an excellent choice - joined us on the descent, with intermittent views down to Scarth Gap and Buttermere. A brew in the mist at Scarth Gap exhausted our tea bag supply.

Sue2 decided to rest her sore heel and headed directly to the fleshpots for lunch.

The rest of us headed slowly and quietly up the well made (recent) path to High Crag, where we chatted for a while about nick names, and 'Little and Large' (aka Tim and Kate) in particular. Bizarrely, a text message arrived from T + K - I didn't know they had the number!

Still in thick mist, we ambled along the ridge to High Stile for lunch, passing a few folk - we saw about 20 'on the hill' today. Whilst there the sky began to clear, bringing glimpses of fine views and impressive crags, and resolving any debate about our direction of onward travel.

Fleetwith Pike from High Stile

Onwards we went, passing above Bleaberry Tarn, where many years ago I unsuspectingly camped near to a stranger who turned out to be a nudist (scary at the time!).

A startlingly ineffective fence led to our final summit of the day, Red Pike.

As we descended from there the remaining clouds dispersed and sun tan cream was daubed. We have a green variety that turns us briefly into Incredible Hulks as it is applied.

It was a fine rocky path beside the clear waters of Scale Beck that led us down past the single blue flowers of abundant butterwort to the tall thin line of water that is Scale Force.

Sue disappeared for some time up a rock face to the upper falls.
'For a skinny dip?'
'No, just for photos this time'.


It was now a lovely hot summer's day and the rowan (please tell me if I'm wrong) was in full bloom.

The view down Crummock Water

A family with a papoose heralded our return to civilisation before we entered the bustling village of Buttermere, where no tea bags are sold.
However, the 'Dairy Tea Rooms at Buttermere Ayrshires' did provide an excellent cream tea, enjoyed outside with the masses, and accompanied by the olfactory delights of Ayrshire manure.

After this Excellent Cream Tea we wandered along the pretty shore path to Dalegarth.

We checked in and found our 5th member of the party, somewhat traumatised as her shower had almost caught fire and she had needed to run, almost naked, for help.

'I didn't even have time to put any make-up on' she reported.

A few glasses of wine at the Fish Hotel soon sorted her out.

The bar meal was good value at £8 a head, and the 20 minute walk back to Dalegarth in the dusk (see pictures) was most pleasant.

Here's today's route.

And here's the view from the top of Haystacks, with Buttermere and Crummock Water, taken by Lucy Fryer the previous afternoon when it wasn't in cloud.

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Monday 2 June 2008 - Through the Mist - Even Smarter Hostel to Black Sail

Distance - 15 km
Ascent - 1167 metres
Time - 8 hours 5 mins including 1 hour 50 mins stops

Which way shall we go today...

The new found Alpine etiquette (Gary is a fast learner) meant all was quiet until 7am this morning, and the buffet breakfast was excellent.

It was overcast with the peaks in cloud, but at least it was warm, calm and dry.
Would Sue2 turn up by 9 o'clock as planned? Yes! In the absence of a reliable taxi firm the nice lady at her B+B - Rainors Farm - ran her over to Wasdale by 8.45. This B+B is highly recommended.

A few metres took us down to the lakeside path, where a change to our original plan saw us turn left, past snoozing sheep and pretty rhododendrons, towards a colony of black headed gulls, and the road.

The road was quiet. Some greylag geese pottered by the shore, and a shy duck (not sure what sort) paddled away.

After 30 minutes we headed off up a bridle path, at an unlikely gradient at first, before it revealed itself to be an excellent contouring path, soon merging with the main path up Nether Beck.

The rising path past pretty waterfalls and erratics, with baaing sheep and mewing lambs, was wet with moisture. Today the high pressure cloud was persistent; we passed an excellent camping glade at 300 metres and stopped for a brew at 11 o'clock at 460 metres, just below the cloud.

The blue flowers of butterwort mingled with bright yellow tormentil beside the path.

At the col between Haycock and Scoat Fell, a cool wind drew us into warmer clothing.
Gary, Sue1 and I nipped up Haycock and played with our phones.
Then it was off to Scoat Fell for lunch behind a wall, sheltered from the SE wind.

Notchy's battered Sigg bottle sympathised with his equally battered and nearly as ancient nose.




My aging Fugitive boots were beginning to show signs of wear. Will they make it to the Alps? I wondered.


We started to see other walkers - about 10 were seen this afternoon, plus a group of 11 students.
At 2.20 we reached Wind Gap, rejoining our planned route that had gone via the screes and Wasdale Head. At last we had a sort of view - into Ennerdale.

The summit of Pillar was soon reached. Glimpses of sunshine filtered through the clouds. Soon the views opened up as the persistent clouds gave way to bright sunshine. We enjoyed a leisurely afternoon brew with fine views into Wasdale, to Burnmoor Tarn and beyond.

Views into Ennerdale, and tomorrow's route over High Crag, were excellent.

Then it was down to Black Sail Pass and the delights of a lovely descent to Black Sail Hut, with Kirk Fell's ramparts towering above us. Great views down Ennerdale (see picture at head of blog) and bobbing wheatears in the sun.

Great Gable has a hat on in this view of the upper reaches of Ennerdale

The remote youth hostel has just two other visitors tonight, Lucy - a first year geography student at Edinburgh, and Hebden - from a Bridge somewhere in Yorkshire. Sheep crop the lawn as we shower, yoga (not all) and admire the superb mountain scenery, now perfectly clear, whilst Graham produces a fine curry, the likes of which this hostel is renowned.

All washed down with glasses of Coniston Brewery's excellent Bluebird Bitter.

Here's today's route.

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Sunday 1 June 2008 - A Sca Fell Day - Smart Hostel to Wasdale

Distance - 17 km
Ascent - 1400 metres
Time - 8 hours 30 mins including 2 hours stops

A dose of Gary's early morning packing (it involves packing each item into a separate crisp packet) got us all out of bed in time for the hostel's excellent buffet breakfast.

Then Sue2 arrived from her adequate B+B and we all set off up Sca Fell.


Except Notchy, who headed directly up to Burnmoor Tarn.

It was cloudier and cooler today, but at least the tops were clear.

Notchy heads off on his lone and short journey, whilst the two Sues pose at the foot of Sca Fell

Contrast Jaguar Man, with his shiny new gear, including garish winter boots, and a small day sack, with Unkempt Man, who stumbles carlessly out of the Youth Hostel with his heavy rucksack and battered gear...
Actually, Unkempt Man slowly fell behind, but he has all week. Jaguar man must be at work tomorrow.

Passing through areas of cotton grass interspersed with milkwort and tormentil, we strolled easily up the shallow gradient of the well worn path to Sca Fell, whose broad back gradually drew closer.

Gary and Sue2 burbled on about weighty work related matters. I felt glad (if not smug) to have escaped from the rat race.

It was a duller day, but we still wore t-shirts.

The Isle of Man, seen beyond Illgill Head, looked very close.

Then a strange thing happened.

It started to rain! Lightly, but rain nevertheless. It's not supposed to do that on these trips, which we have been running for 4 years now. In all those weeks we've had just a few minutes of rain.

And so it was today. The rain had stopped by the time we reached the summit at noon after a 3 hour walk. It didn't return, though a blanket of cloud did descend to about the level of Yewbarrow.

Sue looks across to Scafell Pike and Great End (above)
and we enjoy a brew just below the summit of Sca Fell

The sharp descent to Burnmoor Tarn over slithery rocks and grass demanded two lunch stops. Just as well, the YHA packed lunches are vast, and 3 of us still have enough for tomorrow.

After yesterday's incident, Notchy's nose looked as bashed as his water bottle. Today Sue2's balance deserted her and her hand, bloodied from a slide on the rocks, is now the second casualty of this trip. Luckily first aid in the form of a dishy pharmacist had been on hand to stem the fountain of blood.

Near Burnmoor Tarn

Burnmoor Lodge, beside the tarn, looks impressive from a distance, but Notchy passed close by here today and tells us the building looks sadly derelict, and is boarded up.

A wet short cut took us past three lazy cows and on up the path to Illgill Head.

There were lots of shiny inky blue dung beetles around here. Very pretty.

After a brew stop demanded by Sue2, and much collecting of sheepswool by Sue1, we plodded slowly on to Whin Rigg.
The sheepswool is to combat 'hot spots' on her feet, where blisters are threatening to appear. Tom Hume introduced her to this treatment during the recent TGO Challenge.

A steep descent down Greathall Gill was conducted at speed by Sue2 and Gary. I was the one who couldn't keep up this time.

Views from the descent to Wastwater

A dark cloud hovered over Yewbarrow as we parted with Sue2, who being a late entry for this trip had a B+B booked some way away beyond Nether Wasdale.

That left Gary, Sue1 and I to bimble through dark woods with chirpy birds.

Wast Water greeted us with the rush of its surf and fine views.

Notchy had arrived safely at the magnificent YHA hostel at Wasdale Hall. We spent a relaxing evening, mainly (once we and our clothes had been washed) in the dining room - the food was excellent - and the library magnificent.

Here's today's route.

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Saturday 31 May 2008 - Deepest Summer - Ravenglass to Eskdale

Distance - 15km
Ascent - 350 metres
Time - 4 hours 10 mins including 45 mins stops

Setting off from Ravenglass on our 90 mile stroll

'Oi' came the shout
'Come back'
Gary and I looked around.
Notchy lay spreadeagled in front of the two Sues, who started to administer first aid. His nose had taken the full force of the impact; a knee had incurred secondary damage.
He sat up.
'Bloody poles!' he exclaimed.
We soon managed to get him up and running again, as despite all the blood there wasn't too much damage. It seems he tripped on his walking poles and went flying, just a couple of hours into this week long backpack across the Lake District. His eyes will probably go black.

We'd risen to a deep blue sky and a perfectly calm summer's day.

The five of us, Sue 1 (Nallo Lady), Sue 2, Gary, Notchy and I had rendezvoused in Timperley and by lunch time we were sitting on a bench (pictured above) by the narrow gauge railway at Ravenglass.

A lovely calm spot where everyone was buying ice creams.

After sorting our gear we set off along a hot and sweaty track towards Muncaster Castle.
Past banks of red campion and jolly people with red faces we went.

Sweat dripped.

Passing some ancient Roman Baths we felt it a shame that they weren't operating today - they would have been most welcome.

Our thermometer recorded 25C.

We strolled up Fell Lane to the sound of bleating lambs, having already strayed from our planned 'Thin Blue Line'.








Buttercups and daisies lined the path




Then Notchy fell over.

Luckily, today's route was low level, short, and with no time pressures. Alan Sloman would have been proud of us!

It was a lovely day in the valley. Flitting swallows and martins provided evidence of midges, but the little blighters didn't really bother us.

View to the Ulpha Fells

We ambled on past Dalegarth Hall, with its huge round chimneys, then, after a short break, to St Catherine's Church, a fine edifice. The locals here are long lived, judging by the dates on the tombstones.

Dalegarth Hall

One of the many relaxation breaks enjoyed on this trip

Windows and exterior of St Catherine's Church

Sca Fell lurked high in the distance, whilst the afternoon sunlight danced over the Ulpha Fells much closer to hand, but our minds weren't inclined to stray to tomorrow's exertions on Sca Fell.

After following some shepherds training their dogs by moving sheep, and crossing a number of thin (and mainly unnecessary in today's dry weather) bridges, we came upon the track to Penny Hill Farm.

Sue2 left us here in favour of her B+B, whilst the rest of us carried on over Doctor Bridge, and past the Woolpack Inn to the splendid Youth Hostel.

Sue later rejoined us for what by YHA standards could be considered a good meal.
Then we all flaked out...

Here's today's route.

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