Sue and Martin in Mallorca 2019

Sue and Martin in Mallorca 2019
On the Archduke's Path in Mallorca

Thursday, 31 January 2008

Thursday 31 January 2008 - Fun around Queenstown

We are now installed at Kinloch Lodge, at the end of the road north of Queenstown, ready for a 9.30am lift tomorrow morning to start the Routeburn track, making it into a circular walk by returning via the Caples track.
Today has been another hot day, although there were a few drops first thing as we ate our breakfast outside! Much as we both would have liked to climb Ben Lomond (around 1700m) behind Queenstown, there wasn't time due to scheduled afternoon activities. So, we walked up to a small summit using the Millenium walkway. Once through the dark pine woods, we emerged to views across Lake Wakatipu, over to the gondola with Ben Lomond behind, and to mountains surrounding us. ...And only three other people all morning (high season?)!

A full afternoon has been had on a rafting trip on the Shotover river, which started with a scary bus ride over the Skipper's canyon road. Single track, this dirt road has precipitous drops below which is a downhill mountain bike track. Having survived this, the rafting was a pleasure. We were one of nine rafts on the 2-hour, 14km section. The river was clear and blue, at the bottom of a steep-sided canyon most of the way. The first half involved practicing the techniques that would be required, then the second half saw us on grade 3-4 rapids with names such as 'the squeeze', 'the toilet', etc. In places there was only just space to get a raft through the rocks on either side and we got wet several times. At the end was a 170m tunnel, with a rapid that caused one of the other rafts a problem, when it got stuck!
Since then, we've eaten great fish and chips at PJ's, and driven north for over an hour, with more glaciers coming into view.
Looking forward to using the hot tub here when we finish - so, no more from us until monday evening!

Wednesday, 30 January 2008

Monday to Wednesday 28-30 January 2008 - Mount Cook Lifts its Veil

Monday morning - woke to clear skies and fine views of the Southern Alps. Paid our farewells to Pam and Rob, and whilst they set off to work we spent all day over 330km in search of new horizons. Rewarded by fine views en route and a nice camping spot near Mt Cook Village. Short walks and a camp meal were followed by a lovely sunset. Mt C had just about poked its snout out of the clouds.

Tuesday - woke to the competing sounds of a flock of Kea birds and an insomniac JCB. The JCB won. So it wasn't long before we were up at the Tasman Glacier, the longest in NZ, from where Mt Cook's snowy summit towered above its sharp final ridge, radiant below a vermilion sky, over 3000 metres above us. Icebergs disintegrated noisily on the lake below us. Then it was back to camp and up a 500 metre Alpine Thrutch to Sealy Lake, with more fine views to Mt Cook and several stupendous hanging glaciers. Sue swam vigorously before a late lunch. It was about 30C up here, a hot day. Then down via Kea Point (no Keas) then along the Hooker Valley to beyond the second suspension bridge from where we got yet more (and our closest) views of the highest point in NZ - 3754 metre Mt Cook. We blame the Heat; we felt a bit tired, so it was a welcome early night after a fine home cooked salad and local wine. The day had been hot and cloudless.
Wednesday - Milky Way views overnight made way for a cloudy but bright morning for our leisurely drive to Bowness on Windermere, sorry, Queenstown. En route I was not tempted by the low flying attractions of the old Kawarau Bridge's bungy industry. Sue was attracted, but will save her aerial adrenaline for later in the trip. Deco Backpackers here in Queenstown has a fine view and good facilities to set us up for the next phase.

Sunday, 27 January 2008

Sat & Sun 26 & 27 January 2008 - Weekend in Christchurch

Our remaining day in Singapore was spent exploring the Chinese quarter, with the added flags for the Chinese New Year celebrations (2008 is the Year of the Rat), then climbing a hill! The hill in question was Mount Faber, 116m high, and overlooking Sentosa Island and the harbour. Despite the size of the hill, the humidity resulted in a sweaty walk up through the forest, which was alive with the sound of birds and insects. It rained at the top, but, strangely enough, it was quite pleasant! From the summit, the enormity of the city is obvious. Time had now run out and we used the efficient MRT to transport us back to the beautifully cool Chiangi airport.


Tomorrow we head off into the Southern Alps from Christchurch, but our trip has started on a high in this 'garden city'. Our hosts, 'Pam the artist' and 'Rob the surfer' have been generous with their insider knowledge and their home in Sumner. What a place - we have eaten breakfast on the deck with a view over the city, Avon estuary, Pacific ocean, curving away with its white surf into the distance, and the Southern Alps on the horizon, which have become more defined as the weekend has progressed. Nights have been perfectly quiet, producing deep sleeps only halted by the mewing of Mogglet who wants to jump on the bed once the morning is light.


Christchurch's botanic gardens were a feast for the eyes (and nose!) after landing on Friday, and Cathedral Square was buzzing with crowds enjoying the sunshine and the entertainment as part of the World Buskers Festival. Our hearts were in our mouths as 'Space Cowboy' firstly swallowed two swords, then proceeded to juggle two jungle knives and a fire torch, whilst blindfold on the top of a 3m monocycle!

Saturday dawned overcast but the weather improved all day. 'Silver Bullet', our hire car, was thoroughly tested on the Summit Road to Akoroa. Hundreds of mountain and road bikers were out, seeking the thrills and views from the rim of the volcano that makes up Banks Peninsula, despite the low cloud. Our destination was the French-influenced village of Akoroa on a harbour, which we reached at lunchtime, having scared ourselves on the dirt road leading to Pidgeon Bay, with its precipitous drop on the climb up!
Low tide was essential for the afternoon's walk along a narrow peninsula near Barry's Bay - the orange volcanic rock contrasted well with the blue water of the harbour and the green of the surrounding hills and by now, the cloud had broken up, producing a fine afternoon.

Today, we had the pleasure of paying a surprise visit to Sarah, Anthony and Lara, who have now lived here for five years. Thanks for the coffee! Godley Head gave us another excellent walk, from the car park at Taylor's Mistake (why is it so named?). Our route involved a 100m tunnel to a gun emplacement built in 1939 at the entrance to Lyttleton Harbour, Christchurch's port. Windows in the tunnel meant that torches weren't needed.

Our New Zealand lamb dinner has just made a lovely end to the weekend, despite the view from the deck being obscured by our washing hanging out to dry! We head to Mount Cook village tomorrow where we're intending to camp in the light of a reasonable forecast.

Thursday, 24 January 2008

Wednesday 23 January 2008 - A Quest for a Singapore Sling

After a very pleasant evening with Birthday Boy and Night Bird, plus the Pacific Ramblers, who had returned just a little before schedule after a wonderful trip, we were duly dispatched on our own mission, Night Bird insisting on us sending proof that a Singapore Sling can still be obtained at Raffles. And so we hit the road and found our way via the Singapore Botanic Gardens (the Orchid Garden is one of The Dishy Pharmacist's favourite places) to a metro station at Raffles Place. Pretty good, we thought. But Raffles Hotel was nowhere to be seen, so we had a nice walk beside the Singapore River to our hotel.
Soon we were showered and clean and on our way, on foot to avoid any navigation errors, for a second attempt at our quest. Readers conversant with my navigation skills may be surprised to discover that success rewarded our perseverance and we were soon crunching over the monkey nut shells that carpet the floor of The Long Bar. Sue enjoyed the Sling whilst I slurped a beer in front of a gallery of pecking pigeons, hoovering up the copious monkey nut remnants. The place was full of people doing the same as us, at great expense - a nice little industry for the locals.
We soon had to curtail our visit in order to seek out Mark and Janet and Katie at their nearby condominium. (Caroline was away on a trip.) They were in tremendous form, now 2/3 of the way through Mark's two+ year assignment. Janet is enjoying teaching at an English school with 2000 pupils. There is a paucity of countryside here but all except Mark enjoy the retail therapy - available in profusion.
Mark then accompanied us back down to Clarke Quay, where he treated us to a lovely seafood meal. Thank you Mark, it was really good to see you all and find you enjoying life so much.
It was just a short stroll back to our hotel and an excellent kip, having got quite a bit in arrears in that department.

Monday, 21 January 2008

Monday 21 January 2008 - Getting Out Of The Rain

We’ve had enough of this for a while, fun though it can be…really…we are not complaining, we are just a little damp…

Sunday, 20 January 2008

Sunday 20 January 2008 - A Walk in the River Bollin

Today we are checking that 'posting from afar' works, as we have now 'picked' our luggage for the next few weeks, and will be packing it tomorrow, after various admin jobs - house sitting arrangements, wills, TODO list...and much more.

So we are posting this from Hale Towers after a short walk beside the River Bollin, in the rather damp Cheshire countryside. In Andrew's case the walk strayed into the fast flowing river. Up to his neck! A magnificent self rescue (this five year old has strong sense sense of self-preservation) soon returned him to the bank, from where it was a short drip back to the car.

The picture above shows Andrew with a strange man, after his self-rescue.


The previous experiment only half worked, so here is fame at last for Kate, with an image direct from the card reader that has been 'picked' but not yet packed.

[The experiment worked, but photos were later replaced by improved versions.]

Friday, 18 January 2008

Friday 18 January 2008 (Part 2) - TGO Challenge 2008 – An Efficient Vetting Process

It has all happened within a few days of submission. Alan Hardy’s comments have been considered and implemented where appropriate, and our route now incorporates a couple of Corbetts. How could we have missed those? Because that day we were following the sun until mid morning and 'bearing left'; we really needed to turn sharp left to reach the Corbetts! How very silly of us; no doubt we will make many similar such blunders 'in the field'. We've therefore decided to take a whistle, and you may notice from the previous post that we now have a fancy 'Starflash Mirror' to guide rescuers towards us. Once scouts, always scouts!
The amended route is again shown in outline above and the statistics are now as follows (ie very little change):
Distance: 323 km (202 miles) [2007: 343 km (214 miles)]
Ascent: 12500 metres [2007: 12950 metres]
Munros: 16 [2007: 2]
Corbetts: 2 [2007: 8]
Grahams: 1 [2007: 2]
Other Marilyns: 0 [2007: 1]
This will certainly be a much more sociable route than my Corbetteering effort last year. Who’s for a beer in Braemar on Sunday 18 May? Whilst the initial list bears lots of familiar names, it’s a shame to hear that (Podcast) Bob and Rose won’t be on the Challenge, and nor will Andy and Kate.
Next year perhaps!

Friday 18 January 2008 - Backpackinglight.co.uk – Incomparable Service

Yesterday the DP and I finally got around to ordering a few bits and bobs for the imminent trip that is in fact the reason for starting this blog. So we scoured Bob and Rose’s website (and mouse control test!) to order some sundry items that will help to keep our possessions dry, protect from bugs and provide the DP with a temporary sex change for a certain function.
During the day we received messages confirming:
1. Order received
2. Order processed, and
3. Goods despatched.
And today the said goods were delivered at about 9 am, well within 24 hours of us first thinking about ordering. Excellent.
Even more efficient than Tower Ridge were last month (to be fair they were excellent as well). But unlike Tower Ridge, Bob and Rose had added the usual CD, which the DP will transfer to her shiny new ipod, and some items for us to field test. These should be extremely useful, as where we are going the annual rainfall is about 5 metres, mainly at this time of year. Which seems quite a lot! We will also enjoy the Fun Gums despite their very short half life!

Thursday, 17 January 2008

Thursday 17 January 2008 - The End of a 36 Year Relationship

Today I strolled unescorted into Grant Thornton’s Manchester offices for the last time. In future I’ll be a visitor. I am completely free to do whatever I want. But I have no income for the time being! How about a cheap walk across Scotland? And a few trips that have already been paid for?
I couldn’t have wished for a better team of people to work with, but they have managed without me, more or less, for a while now, and all good things come to an end; nobody is indispensable.
What I have appreciated is a continuing, albeit diminishing, flow of work after I left their employment four years ago. But now that flow has ceased and I have handed the dregs to Jason, who is more than capable of whizzing off the odd spreadsheet etc that I used to do.
Thank you, all at GT, and all the very best wishes to you for a happy and successful 2008 and beyond.
I think I’ll just head off into the Sun (NOT the sunset!) for now. I’ll buy you a beer when I get back…

Wednesday 16 January 2008 - A Postcard from Timperley

Since I do notice Google searches for ‘Postcards of Timperley’ being directed to this blog, this is where we live. It’s a postcard of Timperley. Not very exciting I know (except for the man on a roof - but given the low resolution of the blog images that will be a bit like 'spot the ball'), but for some it fills in a small piece of a jigsaw. Terry, at our local (Park Road) Post Office, will be pleased to sell commercially produced postcards of Timperley from his vast stock. Visit him now before he sells out!

Tuesday 15 January 2008 - Sir Edmund Hillary (1919 – 2008)

It would be remiss of me to ignore the death last week of Sir Edmund Hillary. His moment of fame came on 29 May 1953, when he and Sherpa Tenzing were the first men to reach the summit of Everest (assuming Mallory and Irvine didn’t make it).
I think I have a vague recollection of the event, but I was too young to clearly recall it. A glance at my bookshelf indicates that over the years I have collected a couple of copies of John Hunt’s ‘The Ascent of Everest’, including a first edition. Oh to find the time to read it again – it may be my previous reading of the book that makes me think I can recall the actual event.
I’m not qualified to comment of Hillary’s life, but his achievements are recorded here, Wikipedia has a comprehensive entry here, and Cameron McNeedsaSpellcheckerNeish has written a piece here. I found them all worth reading.

Wednesday, 16 January 2008

Sunday 13 January 2008 - Mud, Mud, Glorious Mud

It’s 1.30 pm, and the DP and I are joined by Andrew in the small, cold, chairless porch of Elton Parish Church. Andrew tucks into his Service Station Sandwich whilst we munch on Anonymous Pate tucked into aging slices of bread. It’s drizzling outside and we leave our waterproofs on. They cling to the damp clothing beneath. There is nowhere to place our mugs of tea, so they sit on the stone floor, gathering cold drips.
Richard and Jenny, we know, have brought butties. Why aren’t they suffering with us? Ah well, it would have been a tight fit in here, anyway.
This was lunchtime on Sue W’s first Peak District Bimble of the year, cleverly planned to start at Friden at 10.30, thereby enabling the organisers to sleep in until 10 am, whilst the other members of this gang of 12 fought their way from various parts of the Midlands and the North. “Happy New Year”s briefly pervaded the gloom. Whilst it was vaguely dry at the point of departure, I needed to put my waterproofs on to protect my hat from blowing away. Soon the dullness deteriorated into drizzle, but it was nice to see everyone. Richard was enthusiastic as we passed the brick factory. His family was one of the Great Brick Making Dynasties. That is, until the firm went bust some years ago. He explained that the bricks made at Friden include refractory bricks that withstand great temperatures, etc etc…!
I’d done a small A5 laminated card with what I thought was the intended route, and this worked well whilst the others couldn’t be bothered to get their maps out.

But after reaching the lane (pictured above) that turns into a quiet road to Middleton, Sue and Phil took over with their plan. The main road was quiet and the farm lane was ok, but as we wound our way around the beautifully landscaped Mount Pleasant Farm, and down to Smerill with the expansive view shown below, Sue began to limp. Quite Badly. So Phil turned back to retrieve their transport and I had my rather pathetic little map to guide the rest of us to Elton for lunch.

We set off into a deep bog, foolishly ignoring a bemused looking Graham who had been here before and knew a way around it. But we, not he, were on the path. Richard heroically dislodged a bucket of sheep feed that had metamorphosed into a dam. We could now walk through the bog, rather than wade through a lake.
Turning right at a lane end we took, for the sake of Sue’s poorly leg, a direct route to Elton via Rock Farm. My navigation was a little too direct and deviated from the path. I must get out of this awful habit of leading people up seemingly nice farm tracks that turn into deep slurry!
We thankfully regained a path that was simply boggy at Rock Farm, for the stroll into Elton, via water troughs that were turned into slurry troughs by our shitty boots. At some point Jenny fell over, apparently on the only piece of proper soft grass we saw all day! I hope she has recovered.
After our little sojourn in the church porch, the three paupers joined the rest of the group in the Elton cafĂ©, where about 50 people were crammed in for Sunday lunch with steaming mugs of tea. Richard and Jenny had cheated; they had kept their butties for tomorrow and were tucking into a sumptuous lunch… The pub next door was empty! The Tea Rooms are a walkers and cyclists’ paradise, full of character with old advertising signs adorning the walls, a grandfather clock in the corner and a National Cash Register to record sales. There was nowhere for us to sit, and we had already had our lunch, but the others would be here for some time yet. So when someone finally left, we decided on dessert. Both the carrot cake and the cherry crumble with custard and ice cream were superb, and the others had enjoyed the rest of their food. So, when walking in the Peaks, try this place. But don’t bring butties, and arrive early.It was nearly 2.30 by the time we re-emerged into the murk. Sue and Phil (our leaders) drove off, leaving us to walk down the lane to the start of Gratton Dale (Sue said the footpath option would be ‘messy’.) Once in the dale route finding was no problem, we just had to walk up the path. Unfortunately the ‘path’ had been usurped by a stream, so we were consigned to its boggy verges. If we thought the morning’s route had been uncomfortable this was really unpleasant. (See the top picture.)
Now my knees started to pain me, and Mike kept bending over and breathing deeply, showing signs of fatigue after Christmas excesses. At the head of the dale an obvious right turn took us into Long Dale for the supposedly simple walk back to Friden. Tea Lady shot off, keen to get home in time to do the six hours daily revision that appears to be in her ‘Retraining as a Medic’ routine. The rest of us plodded on, thankfully on firmer ground, and the DP pleased everyone by handing round a large tub of Caramel Shortbread (or should that be a tub of Large Caramel Shortbread?).
We arrived at a junction and ignored the main path – it went uphill. So we followed a wall and came out by a wood at another junction. Tea Lady reappeared, unable to divine her way back to her car, or was it the prospect of some emergency first aid practice – administering to Mike, now almost permanently doubled up from acute exhaustion. I took a bearing. “It’s over this collapsed gate”. Those with 1:25000 maps should have checked. My scrap of 1:50000 didn’t show the detail, and we splodged off in roughly the right direction but on the wrong side of a wood. All went fairly well, via broken down walls and unlikely gates, until the final bit of road bore into sight. The wood was in the way. We bravely fought our way through what appeared to be the remnants of WW2 defences into and out of the barbed wired and loosely walled bracken filled strip (not a patch on last Wednesday’s ‘Forest Experience’). Dusk descended as we regrouped back at Friden just a little way down the road.
Sadly, I have no flora and fauna to report on this walk, they were all lying very low today. I wonder why?

Here’s the route, should anyone be brave enough to follow in our footsteps. Actually it would be good in dry conditions with a 1:25000 map. It’s about 18 km with 450 metres of ascent, and took us 5½ hours including the hour for lunch.

Sunday, 13 January 2008

Saturday 12 January 2008 - TGO Challenge – Draft Route Submitted

Well, the ToDo List has gained a Big Tick today, with our route having been considered in depth and submitted to Uncle Roger.
I doubt whether we will have the same vetter as last year, the superb Ian Shiel, as Ian has been in hospital to try to sort out a recurring sciatica problem. I’m sure all who know him will join us in wishing him the very best and a speedy and full recovery.
This year’s route, shown in outline below (we will of course be memorising the detail and using just this map – and of course The Sun – to aid our Bimble across Scotland in search of Cake Stashes and Cheese and Wine Parties) conceals the following statistics:
Distance: 326 km (202 miles) [2007: 343 km (214 miles)]
Ascent: 12500 metres [2007: 12950 metres]
Munros: 16 [2007: 2]
Corbetts: 0 [2007: 8]
Grahams: 1 [2007: 2]
Other Marilyns: 0 [2007: 1]
A highlight will no doubt be our crossing of The Monadhliath. After much debate and poring over the maps we have decided on the day of the crossing to rise early and follow the sun until mid morning, when we will bear left and continue in that direction to a river. Here we will set up camp and consume cheese, wine and cake. The second day (or third, if it takes that long) will be similar, starting with a brisk swim and ending at a town where we can relate our adventures in a bar.
Enjoy the Message Board, everyone…

Friday, 11 January 2008

Wednesday 9 January 2008 - Crunchy Snow on The Nantlle Ridge

The weather forecaster described Wednesday as ‘a window of brighter weather in an otherwise awful week’, but with high wind, sunshine and showers forecast for the day, it could do anything! It was still and the stars were bright when we left home at 6.35am. The appointed meeting point was the car park in Rhyd-Ddu, where we learnt of John’s windy overnight camp at Capel Curig, and panic when his pegs appeared to be missing (they were just misplaced!).

The nine o’clock start later proved to be a good move – it was to be a full day, traversing the Nantlle Ridge and returning along the Cwm Pennant valley, over a pass, and back down to Rhyd-Ddu. Viewed from the slopes of Y Garn, the summit of Snowdon was clear and all the hills had a good dusting of snow. Rays of sunlight pierced the grey cloud and made silhouettes of the hills to our south.

The ridge was superb – short sections of scrambling, broad grassy shoulders, a narrow col, requiring great care due to steep rocky slopes either side, huge drops down into the adjacent cwms, and constant ascent and descent. The only prints besides ours in the virgin snow were those of a fox, which, amazingly, continued along the whole ridge. Early on, two showers narrowly missed us, but donning waterproof trousers was enough to encourage the sun to come out, reflecting the verglas on the rocks.

The rocks were of constant interest to amateur geologist, John, who broke open a few to determine that they were likely to be volcanic ash. His colourful geological map illustrated when we crossed to an area of different rock.

The obelisk provided shelter from the brisk wind for a morning tea stop and the walls on our final summit of Garnedd-goch (700m) formed a wind break for lunch. From here, Caernarfon Castle stood out clearly, Anglesey was nearly all in view, and the sunshine reflected off the sea.

A pathless descent through deep heather, crossing a stream above an attractive waterfall, brought us to the valley by Braichydinas. Immediately before the road, brambles caught both my ankles, causing a tumble – all would have been fine if there hadn’t been a rock beneath my shins…. They were not inspected in situ but stung for the remainder of the walk. Not a pretty sight when we’ll be wearing shorts in less than two week’s time! Anyway, my thoughts were soon diverted because the helicopters that had been buzzing around all day now flew low through our valley – they might have been helpful if my injuries had been worse! Were the three of them on exercise?

Climbing out of the valley, we passed dilapidated cottages, a large mine building with huge arched windows, and entrance shafts to mines, which John was keen to investigate. “Its warm in here,” he observed.

As dusk fell, we drained the flask and finished off an excellent batch of Martin's homemade fudge, before ambling off on what we thought would be a simple descent to the cars.....!

As the light started to fade, the fun began! The path marked on the map took a direct line through the narrowest part of forest, but somehow, we missed it. Initially, it was easy to walk down the trees between the rows, on soft needles. However, it soon became trickier, with fallen trees, holes and brambles underfoot and tightly packed trees. John’s practice in Panama at jungle bashing proved useful and we were very relieved when a forestry track appeared. Weaving through the forest, we finally exited it, in rain, minus a pair of gloves, about 2 km from the car park. In the dark and rain, we tramped along the narrow gauge railway track, enjoying John’s tales of his neighbour and their escaping bull!

Despite injuries sustained, this was a superb winter day! Hooray for not being at work and despite injuries, I am today feeling invigorated (so much so, the bathroom is sparkling)!

Here’s an outline of our route, which ran to 19 km, 1300 metres of ascent, and took us just over 8 hours.

Thursday, 10 January 2008

Sunday 6 January 2008 - Mow Cop in the Sun

The Dishy Pharmacist and I found time to fit in a brief stroll on our way home from St Albans, via Solihull, Eccleshall and Congleton.The DP had wanted to visit Mow Cop for some time and now finally, before our appointment in Congleton, she had her chance. We made our way by a circuitous route to Mow Cop Castle’s small car park, where a National Trust warden worryingly advised us not to leave anything visible.
Just above the car park is a memorial stone, placed in 1957 as a 150th anniversary commemoration of a meeting that began the revival of Methodism. The inscription reads:

"TO THE GLORY OF GOD. Camp meeting near this spot on May 31st, 1807, began the Religious Revival led by Hugh Bourne and William Clowes known as Primitive Methodism."
We moved on to look around the ruins of the ‘Castle’, which turns out to have been built by one Randle Wilbraham, on the site of a prehistoric camp, in 1754. It was in fact an elaborate summerhouse built to look like a medieval fortress and round tower.
Some summerhouse!
To mark the occasion in 1937 when the Castle was given to the National Trust, over 10,000 Methodists met on the hill.The area around the castle was nationally famous for the quarrying of high-quality millstones ('querns') for use in water mills. Excavations at Mow Cop have found querns dating back to the Iron Age. Though visitors were originally allowed inside the folly the area surrounding it has sadly been fenced off due to an instance of suicide off the cliff edge.On the turn of the millennium in the year 2000 a large fire was lit beside the folly as part of a network of communicating fires across the country.
Turning along the Gritstone Trail path, we found our way to a trig point that overlooks the 65 feet high ‘Old Man O’ Mow’.

To me, this looked like a strange natural rock form, but it turns out to have been deliberately left behind by the quarrying activities hereabouts. This was the site of an ancient cairn, destroyed by the quarrying. Perhaps the ‘Old Man’ was left in memory of the cairn.
We had excellent views on this fine sunny day, with the white orb of Jodrell Bank’s telescope shining brightly in the foreground.

Time was pressing, so we headed off down the trail, soon turning left along the South Cheshire Way. A nice field path led us to the boggy woodland of Roe Park, where the eagle-eyed DP spotted a bird in the distance, high up a tree.
This was a challenge irresistible to her new camera, and the result is shown here. Not bad considering it was about 20 metres away. My camera managed to capture the Great Spotted Woodpecker as a blurred black blotch on the tree trunk.

We emerged from the wood and found a magnificent tree sprouting from the centre of a field.
We soon passed under the main line railway; it occurred to me how little space this takes up compared with the wide swathe of a motorway. The railway sits neatly next to the Macclesfield Canal, beside which we tramped happily up to Congleton, encountering many other walkers, cyclists and fishermen on this scenic section of canal. The cyclists were in fact walking, which is a measure of the state of the towpath after recent wet weather.

A convenient picnic table in Congleton provided a good lunch spot where we were joined by three friendly swans. We then continued through Congleton, a fine railway viaduct soon coming into view. Despite the frost enduring all day in the shade, the warm sun had encouraged Mallards to get very frisky, and the Great Tits were also exhibiting amorous tendencies.
Now we descended to the disused railway line that provides a conduit for the Gritstone Trail at this point. We soon abandoned the wide path edged by golden bracken, in favour of the Staffordshire Way (all the paths seem to be named today, even the canal section is called ‘The Cheshire Ring Canal Walk’) and up a track to a pub where a cheery chap was downing a pint whilst hanging on to his horse. Across a road a narrow boggy path took us to the crest of Congleton Edge, in a wood beside which some trail bikes were tentatively wrestling their way around a tantalisingly technical scrambling course. The noise, whilst not quiet, was muffled by the trees; the bikes were not encroaching onto public land; marshalls were in evidence. This (or similar) is a place where the bikers who terrorise our friends in Bonsall should be coming.
Rejoining the Gritstone Trail and the higher volume of people attracted to that path, we headed up a road towards the prominent radio masts that adorn the summit of the hill topped by Mow Cop.
Horses munched in the bright green fields above Biddulph to our left, but as we stopped to slurp the dregs of our flask of tea, to our right we watched the embers of the sun struggle behind encroaching clouds on this clear day. The Peckforton Hills showed prominently in front of the clear outline of the Berwyns, some 40 miles away.
The view was overlooked by a number of memorials, one being to a 19 year old Royal Marine Commando who died in 2004. It was unclear how he had died; perhaps in a car crash at this point.
And so, we returned to the Castle by 3pm, refreshed after this excellent little circuit in the sun.

Here’s a map of the 14 km route, involving 350 metres of ascent. It took us 3 ¼ hours.

Tuesday, 8 January 2008

Thursday 3 January 2008 - So Much To Do, So Little Time!

Today I jotted down a few jobs (see above) that have become imminent. There are lots more to go with the ‘Top Ten’. So if I miss a day of the blog, I’m not going to try to ‘recover’ unless there is a walk report to write up – I do want to keep on top of those.
I’m trying to encourage Nallo Lady to contribute, and I do plan some ‘Time Warp’ items – reports on Alpine trips, for example, that I’ve been intending to do for ages and which the ‘bite sized’ format of the blog may make less daunting than the compilation of a full report. The entries for a specific trip would be given a special label and be input over a period.
So, after 95 days of continuous entries, containing over 40,000 words and over 170 images, some ‘gaps’ will now appear. The blog gets about 20 visitors a day. Regular viewers enter directly, but Google picks up names and terms etc very quickly, so there have been numerous hits on some items of ‘peripheral interest’ such as The Battle of Culloden, and Il-Quccija.
Most of the visitors are friends and family, plus a few of the outdoors bloggers, for which I have to thank quite a number for providing encouraging links. Thanks – Darren, Alan, Duncan, George, Phil, Lay and others. Sadly, there have just been a handful of comments, but maybe that reflects the contents...(read into that what you will - the important thing is that I get great satisfaction from doing the blog).

Monday, 7 January 2008

Wednesday 2 January 2008 - The Art of Iglooism

We have had a touch of snow in parts of the UK, and for some reason (probably struggling to think of a suitable blog topic) the following tale related by Mark Seaton about a trip he did back in 2006 with some clients, including my friend John, came to mind.
Mark had no objection then to my printing his report in a newsletter that I edit, so I trust he has no objection to my repeating that exercise here.
Given all the brilliant reports on his trips from John and others, if I ever use a Chamonix guide I will seek Mark out. He sounds a really excellent guide, so even though I have never met him, I would unreservedly recommend him for any level of Alpine guiding, summer or winter. Check him out here. And the pictures on his blog indicate that he has been practicing The Art of Iglooism quite recently, as has Chris Townsend who reports in February's TGO magazine on a trip in Yellowstone with 'Igloo Ed' the man behind the igloo making kit used by Mark.

The Art of Iglooism

“So you’ve bought what? Did I hear you right?” John asked

“Yes I’ve bought an Igloo making machine!” I proudly reconfirmed and then added

“We are going to take it into the mountains and build a perfect igloo. And then we are going to sleep in it.”

“Who are we?” Peter asked

“You guys seem like good candidates!” I offered

“No way!” they chorused

“Okay” I shrugged while secretly banking on them taking the bait

Picture the scene. Peter, John Nigel and I, their Mountain Guide, were all sitting in a mountain restaurant. It was snowing like mad and the avalanche danger was getting higher and higher and our options as to what we might do were rapidly diminishing.

“More wine anyone?” Peter asked

The Igloo would not leave the conversation and the team could not resist asking more questions:
"Have you tried it out yet?" Asked Nigel

“Yes I built a 7 footer in the garden for the children.”

“How long did it take?” They asked.

“About 3 hours. It was perfect.” I boasted

More wine anyone?

“Will it be cold?” John asked

“No the temperature hovers around zero - I have some sleeping bags you can borrow.”

“I have always been fascinated by Igloos - maybe it would be a good idea.” Nigel reflected

“Another bottle?” More questions and then suddenly we had an Igloo Building Team.

So an adventure was born. I had been searching the web attempting to find out how I could build some snow sculptures for my daughter’s birthday party when I came across Grand Shelters and the “Ice Box.”

Two weeks later it arrived from the US. Bought straight from the Internet. Fundamentally it is a bottomless box which you pack snow into to form a block. The “Former” is attached to a long adjustable pole, which is stuck in the snow. You make a brick then move the former and make the next brick going around in a circle. The pole makes sure the Igloo is perfectly round. Once you have made the first layer you shorten the pole and continue until you spiral up and in and voila a perfect Igloo.

Traditionally Igloos are built out of hard packed snow which is cut out in blocks using a saw. Generally this type of wind packed snow is difficult to find anywhere other than the Arctic. Sometimes you can build them in the Cairngorms but it requires great patience and skill and it is very likely that there will be big gaps and cracks, which are hardly conducive to a good night’s sleep. In the British and European mountains the preferred method is to build a snow cave. [Extremely effective and an essential survival skill to develop if you plan to walk and climb in the Highlands in winter.] But snow caves are hard work to excavate and you need a massive drift of snow. In addition you get soaking wet building them. Hardly the ideal state to be in prior to sleeping in any sort of cave let alone one made of snow.

Anyway I was a bit worried that the team, in the cold light of the next day would have backed down. On the contrary their resolve seemed steely and Peter set off to buy what turned out to be formidable supplies. Food: A Gourmet spread from one of Chamonix’s delicatessens. Wine, which would be okay at room temperature: Champagne, plus [unbreakable] champagne flutes. Candles - for atmosphere.

We drove to the ski station of Combloux which is part of the huge Megeve lift system, manhandled our larger than normal rucksacks on to the lifts and rode them to the top. We attracted some strange looks, especially me because I was the only person skiing in France’s most fashionable resort with a saw strapped to his rucksack. (For cutting the door.]

We struck off the piste and with the aid of our ski-touring skis headed off to the “building site.” I must say that we choose a simply stunning position to site our Igloo. It was stuck out on a promontory looking across to the Mt Blanc Massif. Huge pine trees that were covered in fresh snow surrounded us.

We tramped the snow down with our skis and unpacked the Ice Box. I then announced that we would build an “11 footer.” This was a gigantic mistake probably brought on by a pique of over enthusiasm that seems to have beset recent British architectural projects. We started building at 3.30pm by 8.00pm the thing looked like a Millennium Dome and was about as on schedule for completion as the new Wembley stadium.

By 7.30 pm we had witnessed one of the most glorious sunsets that the Mt Blanc massif could ever deliver. But in spite of determined work we still only had a structure that looked a lot like a giant pudding.
By 8.30pm we had not managed to close the dome, which sported an opening the size of a pool table.
Suddenly all notions of Igloo authenticity deserted me and I decided that we should botch the roof by throwing some branches over the top and lobbing snow on the crown.

“There finished.” I said in a way that was meant to suggest that the branches had always been the Eskimo’s preferred method of Iglooism.

The night’s silence was broken by a “pop” as Peter opened the champagne [nicely chilled] and we strolled around our Igloo as if we were at some sort of bizarre themed cocktail reception.
Next I fired up the stove ready for our soup while we sipped champagne and passed the hors-d’oeuvres between us as we now sat in our sleeping bags.

We retired to bed by merely blowing out the candles. It would be untruthful to claim that we had an entirely peaceful nights sleep, but this was down to one of our team being in the British snoring team and nothing to do with sleeping in an Igloo.

Next morning we were awoken by the sun streaming in through our perfectly positioned easterly facing door. Inspiring us for another day in the mountains.

Foot note.
Although we journeyed through the mountains on skis, snowshoes would be functional. So anyone wishing to build Igloos in the Alps need not be able to ski.
The Ice Box can be bought through http://www.grandshelters.com/. It comes with an instructional VHS video.
Further information from Mark Seaton. E-mail markseaton@wanadoo.fr

© Mark Seaton - 2006

Friday, 4 January 2008

Tuesday 1 January 2008 - Welcome to 2008 - Y Garn and the Glyders

Happy New Year, Everyone
A bright start to the New Year saw us on very quiet roads leading to Llyn Ogwen in Snowdonia, reached easily in two hours.
The forecast, once again, was for the weather to clear from the south by early afternoon. So despite the cloud hanging low and grey over the mountains, we were encouraged by this forecast, and the lack of precipitation or significant wind. It was a warm 9°C. So our planned walk was on, despite our inability to find the Ogwen Weather Forecasting Stone. We lingered at the drinks kiosk with tea for a while. It was eerily quiet, with no sign of ‘The Blogfather’, who we thought we might encounter here.
Setting off up the gully towards Y Garn, we were soon on the green hillside with views back to Llyn Ogwen. Llyn Idwal appeared on our left below slabs above which grey clouds hung ominously. We warmed up nicely as the ridge became steeper. My fleece was soon discarded. Reaching the summit in the mist after an hour and ten minutes, we saw three people ahead disappearing into the mist.
It was cloudy, but fairly calm. We descended to Llyn y Cwr, where, still in cloud, we enjoyed elevenses with some delicious pecan and hazelnut fudge, and our last two home-made chocolate biscuits.
Another climb followed, to the summit of Glyder Fawr. Steep initially, it soon eased off, but the cloud thickened and visibility dropped. Cairns guided us onwards from that summit, but they stopped (ie we lost them) after a while and we started to descend. So we climbed back to the ridge over large, wet, slippery boulders, eventually pawing our way to the awkwardly slithery summit of Glyder Fach. This was very slow going, the DP being fearful of the inconvenience of a broken leg or ankle.
Back on easy ground we passed the Cantilever Stone and dropped to the end of the ridge beyond the Bristly Ridge junction. As we stumbled down, slightly off the ‘path’, a bouncy black Labrador tried to round us up. He soon shot off, followed by his master who appeared out of the mist.
On dropping north off the ridge, a view appeared below us. The cloud was finally rising, if later than forecast. The hills were clear once we reached the col below Tryfan, and we strolled back down to Ogwen on good paths with expansive views.
Having seen only about a dozen people up to this point, the path below Llyn Bochlwyd was well populated by families out for afternoon strolls and various folk converging on their return from various mountain routes.
By the time we got back to the car around 4pm, the light was fading. It had been an excellent start to the year, despite a bit of mist, with easier conditions than our previous two outings during this holiday period.
Here is a map and some stats. This is a highly recommended winter (or summer) walk, for those with suitable gear and navigation skills.
Llyn Ogwen - 314 metres – 10.20 (P&D Parking £3, free in lay-by 5 minutes up the main road to Capel, and elsewhere)
Y Garn – 947 metres – 11.30
Llyn y Cwr – 716 metres – 11.55 to 12.05
Glyder Fawr – 999 metres – 12.40
Lunch in a nice spot – 1.05 to 1.20
Glyder Fach – 994 metres – 1.50 (slow and slithery)
Path junction leaving the ridge – 763 metres – 2.15
Tryfan col – 720 metres – 2.40 to 2.45
Llyn Ogwen – 3.50
Totals: 11 km, 1041 metres ascent, 5½ hours

Monday 31 December 2007 - My Life of Riley – The End

Today is the Dishy Pharmacist’s last day at work, so until she can find a self employed source of income, my Life of Riley is at an end.
It’s just as well I sold the bus. I’ll need the proceeds.
Anyway, today I received a call to collect a few personal items from her place of work. She appeared in the distance with a trolley and a porter. I wondered whether some of the trolley load might actually belong to her employer. “Hello” said the ‘porter’, the Director of Pharmacy. The files were loaded into the boot of the car with a clear conscience.
Now she doesn’t have to go to work, the DP will be able to spend more time doing exciting things like crouching beside cars to shelter from the weather, as above (last Saturday). And one day soon she may discover that I have set her up as ‘Nallo Lady’, a blogger with access to this Postcard…
…exciting times ahead!?...
Note that (if anyone is interested) I have now caught up with the incomplete entries from earlier in December (22 December onwards).

Sunday 30 December 2007 - Trek Mates Paclite Mitts

I bought these rather expensive Gore-tex mitts from Bob and Rose some time ago. They have been lurking in my day sack, and yesterday’s hail was the first weather to trigger their retrieval from the depths of that bag.
Putting them on, one of the elastic wrist straps (bottom right in the picture) immediately came adrift. That was slightly annoying, but I was pleased to find that on my return home, with the aid of a pair of pliers, the tag could be re-fixed. The wrist straps are to be treated more gently in future, though.
That aside, these gloves were excellent. They tucked easily under the cuffs of my Paclite smock and my gloves underneath these mitts remained perfectly dry. It was the sort of weather when wet gloves mean cold hands, and I had to restrain my smugness when looking at the soggy gloves worn by the others.
I’ve had trouble over the years finding gloves that don’t leak. Unfortunately these mitts, despite being the large size (of which I see Bob and Rose have now sold out), won’t fit over my winter gloves and mitts, but they were fine over the medium weight gloves I wear in normal conditions. Based on this first brief test these gloves are a worthwhile acquisition. I would have reservations about using them without another pair of gloves underneath, unless the conditions are warm.
Postscript
I tried to get more of these mitts in April 2008, but Bob and Rose at backpackinglight.co.uk have been unable to re-stock them.