Sue and Martin in Mallorca 2019

Sue and Martin in Mallorca 2019
On the Archduke's Path in Mallorca

Friday, 24 June 2011

Wednesday 22 June 2011 – Wheeling and Walking in the Peak District

Today Sue was booked in at a function in Baslow to celebrate the Silver Jubilee of Andrew Montgomerie’s ordainment as a vicar.
I decided to tag along, for a breath of fresh air whilst Sue was busy celebrating with the worthies of Andrew’s congregation.

Could these be termed 'medical supplies'?

I managed to find a most enjoyable route, mainly off-road, with no particular difficulties – there’s a link to the route card below.
After the briefest of stretches along the main A619 road, a quiet minor road led up to Pilsley, home of one of numerous ‘Devonshire Arms’ hostelries in these parts, where the Duke of Devonshire – the Cavendish dynasty, has been the principal landowner for hundreds of years.

The Devonshire Arms - one of many hereabouts, this one at Pilsley

The scenic ride took me by mistake to Bakewell, then back to Edensor and a lovely off-road section through New Piece and Manners woods to a major junction of paths to the south east of Coombs Farm.
Here’s the view from that junction.

Looking towards Bakewell from the turn to Coombs Farm

Beyond Coombs Farm, the track passes under a bridge that marks the southern end of the Monsal Trail, six tunnels along which have recently been reopened, making the trail excellent for cyclists as well as walkers.  Previously cyclists had limited access as, with the tunnels blocked for many years, the cyclable sections were linked mainly by footpaths barred to wheels.
My route today didn’t extend as far as the tunnels, but the quiet track made for a very pleasant, relaxing ride after the undulating start from Baslow.

On the Monsal Trail near Bakewell

I don’t tend to rush about on the bike.  It gives me a sore bottom.  Tea/coffee shops do a good business – I can’t cycle past them – as happened at Hassop Station cafe – see above.
After leaving the easy trail near Great Longstone, I headed up to Rowland, and on up a narrow lane to an area strewn with these blue signs:

Scheduled Monument No 31229

This is obviously one of a number of areas in the Peak District where off-road vehicles have caused damage to ancient artifacts and by-ways.  This particular location is one of many being monitored.
I saw no evidence of off-road vehicles today.  There were plenty of signs indicating where they were and were not allowed to venture.  There seem to be plenty of places where they are tolerated, including some of the better surfaced lanes hereabouts.
Here’s the double dyke that is in need of protection.  Exciting, isn’t it?

A double dyke

Just up the lane, Deep Rake becomes High Rake and the track runs beside this deep quarry.  I suspect that vehicles rather more corrosive than trial bikes and recreational 4WDs may have somewhat damaged the fragile double dyke just here.

You would go near this?

Just beyond the quarry, a grassy bridleway leads down Longstone Moor towards a large pond that appears to be a relic of intense mining activity just here.

Meadow by quarry and pits

At another major junction my route led down Rough Side, which is signed clearly as a footpath.  The place was deserted, so I would have cycled anyway, as the surface looked as if it wouldn’t be harmed by my tyres, but another sign, whilst barring anything with an engine, encouraged cyclists and horseriders to be courteous to other users.
The track surface has received recent attention and was excellent to cycle along, eventually turning into a narrow thread of tarmac down Coombs Lane for a quick descent to Calver.

Descending Rough Side

From Calver, another very short section along the main road took me to a gentle climb up the B6001 towards Bakewell, past a lay-by that those wishing to avoid parking charges could use as a base for this route.  A left turn along a narrow lane led to a 30-40 mph sweeping descent back to Baslow.
The route is shown below, and there’s a route card here.  (It prints onto one A4 sheet at 70%.)

The bike ride route - 35km with 800-1000 metres ascent

Fortified by tea in the church hall, and accompanied by a well fed wife, I stashed the bike and proceeded up the hill towards Baslow Edge, past houses you would love to own.

Interesting architecture in Baslow

A few minutes above the village, a shower was swinging in, backed by sunny period.  (Did I mention it was a showery day?)

A view from above Baslow

The Duke of Devonshire’s Chatsworth estate was in clear view to the south.

Chatsworth from above Baslow

Just before the delights of Baslow Edge, we reached Wellington's monument, dedicated to the Duke of Wellington and a celebration of his victory at the battle of Waterloo in 1815. It was erected by a local man called Dr Wrench, who as an army man, felt the need to counterbalance the memorial dedicated to Admiral Nelson on nearby Birchen Edge.

Sue by Wellington's Monument

Once on the Edge, we passed this huge boulder that I can recall trying to ascend on many previous visits.

Bouldering memories

There’s a good view from the Edge above Curbar.  In between showers.

On Baslow Edge above Curbar

Back down in the valley, the River Derwent flows serenely through the village of Curbar.

The River Derwent at Curbar

A pleasant riverside path and a quiet lane led back to Baslow and its noisy weir.

The weir at Baslow

Crossing back over the river by the old toll bridge, we passed a brick booth from which the tolls may have been collected (by midgets?).

The old toll booth on the old toll bridge at Baslow

It’s thanks to Andrew, the vicar of St Anne’s church in Baslow, that we made this trip, and a very enjoyable day out it was too.

St Anne's, Baslow

Here’s the route of our walk – 7.5km, 250 metres ascent, taking less than 2 hours.

Our 7.5 km walking route (250 metres ascent)

A slide show for the whole day can be found here, and the route card for the bike ride is here.

Tuesday, 21 June 2011

Summer in Timperley (2)

Back home in Timperley, our swans have produced two youngsters.

Swans and their young on the Bridgewater Canal in Timperley - 19 June 2011

The towpath is fairly dry, apart from at a spot where a water main appears to have burst, but this recently surfaced section of the Bridgewater Way, between Sale and Brooklands, is particularly benign, without so much as a pedestrian in sight on a sunny Monday morning.

On the newly created Sustrans cycle track by the Bridgewater Canal in Sale - 20 June 2011

Anyone for a bike ride?  Tomorrow (Wednesday 22 June) morning at 9.45 am from Baslow Church (SK 251 723) – about 20 miles, of which half will be off road but not technical – at a gentle pace about 3-4 hours.

PS You may have noticed a duplication of this posting and a test posting.  This is because Windows Live Writer failed to transmit the posting and gave me the following error message:

“The server reported an error with the following URL:
http://feeds.feedburner.com/NameofBlog
405 HTTP method POST is not supported by this URL”

I managed to resolve the issue by uninstalling Windows Live Essentials and reinstalling the software, following this guidance.

(Just in case anyone has a similar problem.)

Saturday, 18 June 2011

A Dales High Way - Day 8 - Newbiggin-on-Lune to Appleby-in-Westmorland


21km, 300 metres ascent, 5.7hrs incl stops.

Weather: rainy all morning, overcast afternoon with more rain later.

Gayle - good to hear from you. The Phreerunner effect (to the uninitiated this is my unswerving avoidance of bad weather) is not dead, it's just on holiday. Wait and see, and don't let the forecast inhibit your travails!

Phil - Hugh does indeed lead Coast to Coast walks, as on his present trip for Wilderness Travel, on which a party of North Americans is walking snippets of a C2C route on a 'day walk' basis.

Last night's meal at the Black Swan was very good - it's clearly a very successful operation down there. The 'Three Lads' turned up, with a fourth member of their party - 'slim Paul' - who has been curiously transparent until now.

The place was humming, but some mysteries remain... Who IS Fred, how does he manage to have such a woman on his arm, and why did the other two members of their party fail to show? We'll never know.

Today, to be brief, we finished the route to Appleby, mostly in the rain. It was a wet day in the Dales.

An easy start led through pleasant countryside past soggy sheep to a fine but very slippery limestone pavement on Great Kinmond. We slithered down past pretty orchids and primroses, and through a 'working farm' (very scruffy, in need of proper 'work') to Great Asby, where we paused in a bus shelter full of newspapers for the locals to collect. The 'Three Lads' (now a foursome) turned up and went to the pub. Two blokes on the Westmoreland Way joined us.

We decided to carry on to the pub at Hoff.

Andrew banged his head and had to sit on a wall (pictured) to recuperate. The path to Hoff was wet and muddy.

The pub at Hoff was closed, so we lunched on the car park. The New Inn is deceased, for the time being - there's a planning application.*

Not far now to Appleby, but the route was fraught with mud and frisky cows. We made it, and celebrated with cream teas in a friendly café - Taste of Eden.

The castle is shut - since 2004.

Now we are waiting for the train home.

I'll do an overview posting with links to proper photos in due course.

Hope you enjoyed this little journey.

Bye for now.



* October 2011 update: The pub at Hoff has re-opened according to Ethan.

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Friday, 17 June 2011

A Dales High Way - Day 7 - Sedbergh to Newbiggin-on-Lune (Brownber Hall)

19km, 850 metres ascent, 5.7hrs incl stops.
Weather: cloudy morning turning to drizzle for a couple of hours from 12 to 2, then sunny periods.

Chris, if you email me via the 'contact us' button on www.topwalks.com I'll let you know when I've put a suitable 'label' on these blog postings to facilitate a meaningful link from your website.

Good to hear from you, Heather. We had an excellent meal at the Craven Arms, despite Gary's 'Vegetarian Incident' - he's a bit prone to such Incidents, so I wouldn't be concerned, though you may be wise to supplement your tasty meal with a vegetable side dish! And we visited your wedding venue! Wow!

Thanks also for your comment, Roger and Jacky. We hope the Garden Party doesn't turn out too soggy, and we look forward to seeing you again soon. John Hillaby's route through Britain? - an ambitious project - now where's that map?

We were John and Sue's only guests at Holmecroft. We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and a chat with them both, before setting off to replenish our luncheon supplies at the Spar shop in the main street. Soon a new Spar will open opposite the entrance to The School, which may change the whole feel of the place.

The lane above the high street car park yields several opportunities for false starts through suburban streets, but some clever (boring?) person has placed 'To the Fell' signs that no doubt discourage navigationally challenged visitors from heading up to dead ends.

The Swifts of Sedbergh were doing their best to dispose of the town's unwary insects as we progressed above the roof tops beside the rising waters of Settlebeck Gill.

The 'Three Lads' who are walking this same route zoomed past - Peter (the boss), Paul (springy legs) and Kev (sunburnt legs! [How?]) - all from Sheffield, on a regular sort of trip; it was the Coast to Coast last year.

A slow plod took me over Arant Haw whilst the others went around it, then on over Calders to our 676 metre high point of the day, The Calf. There was a cold wind at our backs; windproof jackets were donned, and in my case gloves - on 17 June!

It was nearly noon. The sky started to leak though the cloud remained high. We made our way through the drizzle along a pleasantly high and cloud free ridge, over Hazelgill Knott and West Fell. The cloud remained high despite the drizzle, but the lunchtime view down the Langdale valley (pictured - badly, but that's how it was) was rather muted on this dull day. However, the forecast downpour failed to materialise - we are happy about that - and as we descended into Bowderdale the mizzle evaporated and we suddenly found ourselves perspiring under a weak sun.

We passed a pair of oyster catchers nesting on a wall, with goldfinches enjoying the nearby gorse, and hedgerows lined with meadow cranesbill and lady's mantle.

A wet field then a narrow lane led to Brownber Hall, where Hilary and Andrew have been the owners of the 150 year old house for just six months. A lovely place, most appropriate for our last B&B of this trip. It's full tonight, with 18 guests, including eight Americans and their three leaders, one of whom is Hugh Westacott, whose writing in The Great Outdoors magazine I remember well. "You must be very old if you remember those" quipped Hugh.

"Hello Peter" - I surprised a man otherwise known as "Mr Grumpy". One of the Americans' leaders is none other than Pete Goddard, vetter and veteran of 22 TGO Challenge walks across Scotland. Sadly he failed to finish this year and is still trying to nurse himself back to health. We all wish him well.

There's no local eating place, and Hilary isn't cooking tonight, so we have a lift from Andrew to the Black Swan in Ravenstonedale, on which I'll report back tomorrow.

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Thursday, 16 June 2011

A Dales High Way - Day 6 - Chapel-le-Dale to Sedbergh (Holmecroft B&B)

25km, 800 metres ascent, 7.5hrs incl stops.
Weather: emerging from an early heavy shower, a pleasant, cool day with sunny periods.
No of comments from guide book authors: 1 - great to hear from you, Chris, and I'm quite happy for you to post links to these pages. We have found both the Route Guide and the Companion to be helpful and informative, as is the website; the only significant omission we've noticed is the Craven Lime Works between Langcliffe and Stainforth.

We finally parted company with Gary, who (thanks for your message) set off home, Jacky - who was called away on urgent business, and Roger - who kindly gave us a lift back to the Hill Inn.

R+J are involved in a second hand book sale in Giggleswick on Saturday. Their garage is currently home to several boxes of books. On the top was what looked like a 1939 first edition Observers Book of Birds. Worth more than the expected 50p?

The downpour had just about ended by the time we set off from the Hill Inn, but waterproofs were donned and despite his earlier intentions Andrew announced that he would be walking around and not over Whernside. So we strolled slowly down to the village, up to Eller Beck past some 'art' (the 'Boggard' of Hurtle Pot), and on to Broadrake, where I took high road and Andrew followed the other three lads who were on the Dales High Way, along the low route that skirts around Whernside's eastern flanks.

[I'm a little puzzled that the authors of this 'High Way' decided to designate the route over Whernside as an 'alternative', preferring the 'skirting around' option for their principal choice.]

By now the sky had cleared and the summit ridge of Whernside was glinting in the sunshine. I plodded slowly up the steep staircase of recently laid paving slabs, with great views down to the Ribblehead viaduct and the neighbouring hills. Approaching the summit, a team of stone-wallers was busy putting the finishing touches to a repaired wall.

I'd not expected to find the summit alive with a mass of small children searching for geocaches! They were having great fun.

Heading off to the north, past Whernside Tarns, the high pitched chatter of small children was replaced by calls from wheeling peewits and the sweet songs of skylarks.

Boot of the Wold was deserted when I reached it, so I had just a young wheatear for company for a pleasant half hour in a sheltered spot whilst I waited for Andrew. He finally came into view for about ten minutes before reaching and passing me. Sitting right next to the track, I must have been well camouflaged!

Lunch was taken in a grassy glade shortly before reaching a stretch of tarmac past a Methodist Chapel, and Dent was reached via the Dales Way path beside the River Dee in Dentdale, the banks of which were filled with generous portions of wild flowers.

It was warm down there, so a pause for café rehydration was required before embarking on our onward journey through lovely meadows (pictured) to Barth Bridge, one parapet of which was being totally reconstructed.

A steep, hot pull up to Lunds Farm was punctuated by a long chat with a farmer who thought this whole walk was beyond the capability of any normal person, and he did also stress that he thought we may be normal. Andrew wandered off, feeling exhausted, whilst I tried to point out to the farmer the defects in his reasoning, citing Andrew as proof. The farmer looked less than convinced!

By and by we reached the 'school' town of Sedbergh, and walked slowly past the town on the shortest route I could come up with, eventually emerging on the main road opposite our comfortable and quiet B&B, where John and Sue are our friendly hosts.

The Red Lion provided adequate sustenance at a good price, and we adjourned to watch 'the teachers' thrash each other at cricket on one of Sedbergh School's excellent pitches, equipped with a fine club house and all the latest gizmos including a remote controlled electronic scoreboard.

PS - Chris, we'll try not to get lost!!

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Wednesday, 15 June 2011

A Dales High Way - Day 5 - Giggleswick to Chapel-le-Dale

24km, 800 metres ascent, 6.7hrs incl stops.
Weather: heavily overcast, with a light shower in the afternoon.

We decided to start from R+J's house in Giggleswick, rather than return to Stainforth by car. This enabled Roger and me to enjoy the riverside path to Stainforth Force, before heading off below Smearset Scar to reach the excellent tea shop at Feizor. Andrew, Jacky and Gary had already reached that fleshpot, as they had chosen a more direct route via Giggleswick Scar. Three other Dales High Way walkers were encountered - the first of the trip, and the reason why we couldn't get a room at the Hill Inn tonight.

A delightful route, despite the dour weather, led through Wharfe and past Wash Dub (an old sheep dip site) to Crummack, and on to join the Three Peaks route above Sulber Nick.

We lunched here and saw a runner, the first of many folk we assumed were taking in Ingleborough, Whernside and Pen-y-ghent in a day.

The good path then delivered us past Simon Fell to the summit of Ingleborough, just a few metres below the cloud base. It was cool, but we took time to explore both the ancient hill-fort site and the derelict remains of a Hospice tower, built and demolished in 1830.

It started to rain. In light cloud we descended the slippery steps down towards Chapel-le-Dale and the Hill Inn. Numerous '3 Peaks' walkers were met en route, as well as a minibus full of cavers returning from Great Douk Cave or one of the many other local caves and potholes.

The rain stopped and we finished our day in brighter weather before adjourning to the Hill and its display of sugary creations. Then we returned to Giggleswick. This evening we paid a meat eating visit to the nearby Craven Arms, where everyone was eventually satisfied. It's quite a posh place, but not really set up for vegetarians, as demonstated by Gary "I may be small, but this portion wouldn't satisfy a midget half my size!"

I neglected to take any photos with the phone until on the walk home tonight, when the sunset (pictured, with sheep) was rather colourful though I failed to capture the whistling swifts on camera...

Giggleswick is a lovely village dominated by its public school for 400 pupils. It has pleasant streets with old properties like those also shown above.

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A Dales High Way - Day 4 - Malham to Stainforth

17km, 600 metres ascent, 7.0hrs incl stops.
Weather: fine and sunny

Phil - thanks for your comment, if you want to wild camp this route it would be quite possible, and there are also campsites along the way. The main reason for our mode of accommodation on this trip is the fact that my good friend Andrew has never and will never backpack with a tent. That doesn't inhibit his desire for this sort of excursion, the enjoyment of which can be enhanced by meeting friends along the way.

Andrew's TV research, which is extensive, revealed an 'interesting programme' last night about the chandeliers at the Buck Inn that were made by the 'glamorous (former tax accountant) blacksmith' across the road. It all seems a bit unlikely, but we did hear hammering from the smithy. We missed the programme, as we were seated under one of said chandeliers, in the Buck's dining area that was mercifully TV free!

A long wait for breakfast didn't hinder our 9.30 rendezvous with Roger and Jacky in the car park at Malham, and we were soon on our way to the Cove (pictured), past grey and pied wagtails, goldfinches and various other feathered fledglings.

We could see the peregrine falcons from below, but having made our way across the upper lip of the Cove we found ourselves observing the three youngsters from just a few metres away. Trevor and another (resident?) photographer explained that they had fledged (left the nest) yesterday and that they wouldn't be perched on the nearby ledge for very long before they started to fly around whilst receiving up to two months of post-fledging training from their parents. Even then, they only stand a 40% chance of making it through the first winter.

We were engrossed for nearly an hour before moving on up Ing Scar, across Cove Road, and up to the summit of Kirkby Fell. On this lovely summer's day the views ranged far and wide, from Ilkley Moor to the SE to Whernside and other hills to our north, with Ingleborough and Pen-y-ghent also prominent from around here.

A lone figure heralded our arrival on the next summit, our highest to date, Rye Loaf Hill (547 metres). Gary had been waiting for some time with his newspaper, watching our slow progress that had included a pause to rebuild a stone wall (Roger being an expert in this department). The redness of his visage indicated that he may have been there for a very long time, or has he taken to the bottle? He claimed his recent retirement was to blame...

We diverted from the planned route to admire Victoria Cave, the site of a prolonged excavation in the 1870s. Lots of animal remains up to 120,000 years old were found, including many species now found in Africa, together with tools that carbon dating shows are up to 11,000 years old.

Fascinating, but muddy with a dark interior, and just one of forty or so similar caves found in this area.

The walk to Stainforth via Langcliffe was equally interesting, if a little off our planned route beside the River Ribble. Instead, we explored the site of the Craven Lime Works to the east of the river and railway. It's not referred to in our guide book but is as unmissable as it is unheralded. Its dominant feature is the massive Hoffman Kiln built in 1873. This features 22 individual burning chambers around which you can now walk underground. We also scrambled up the steep sides to admire the kiln from above. Wild strawberries and ox-eye daisies are now rampant on the disused exterior. Impressive and fascinating.

Some essential car shuffling meant that we sadly missed out on a spell in the Craven Heifer's beer garden, but we were nevertheless soon installed in Roger and Jacky's rather more exclusive beer garden in Giggleswick. Thank you R+J for your great hospitality and wonderful food and for putting up our unexpected additional companion, Gary, who was expecting to camp.

A brilliant day.

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Monday, 13 June 2011

A Dales High Way - Day 3 - Skipton to Malham(Beck Hall)

22km, 700 metres ascent, 7.0hrs incl stops.
Weather: starting as heavily overcast as is possible without it actually raining, then a bit of drizzly rain that had passed over by lunch time, but our jackets stayed on to combat the cool NW breeze. By mid afternoon we got sunny periods, but it remained cool.

Thanks for your messages and comments.
Alan - I'm pleased to hear you enjoyed your trip to Settle; I think we missed most of the rain yesterday - we just got a bit of drizzle.
Phil - ('Glamping' haha?) this is a walk from Saltaire to Appleby on which we are carrying all that we need (apart from day to day purchases), and as such would probably be regarded by many as a backpacking trip. I'm not sure of the relevance of the mode of accommodation, which will not all be 'B&B'!
Geoff - 'Deepest Cheshire' is a regular venue for our evening walks - feel free to join us in the future.

Back to today. An overcast morning with rain in the air didn't deter us from stashing our waterproofs and setting off, after a fine (well, superb - a Country House Hotel couldn't have done better) Chinthurst breakfast, in search of our next meal.

Greggs Bakery and a fruit and veg stall provided the necessaries, and off we set towards the pointy peak of Sharp Haw. On the way the drizzle kept starting and stopping, so eventually we gave in and left our waterproof jackets on all morning.

The views were fine, but would have excelled on a bright sunny day. After slithering down to Flasby we bumped into two separate walking parties - the only ones seen until we reached Malhamdale.

The valley walk to Hetton was delightful, and we lunched on a bench on the smallest village green we had seen for some time. The Angel Inn was our next port of call - a village pub that is trying to survive by expanding its business and going up market whilst retaining local congregation.

A long, straight lane imaginatively named 'Moor Lane' rose slowly before dipping down to the sad looking half full Winterburn Reservoir. Then the well constructed path continued relentlessly up Winterburn Moor, eventually reaching our high point to date, The Weets (414 metres), from where the limestone pavements of the Malham area were arrayed before us. The summit of Kirkby Fell dominated the view above Malham.

An easy walk down the road to Gordale Bridge was followed by a stroll over slithery limestone, past the pleasant waterfall known as Janet's Foss (pictured), where Sue and others 'skinny dipped' on her birthday weekend one cold February day, and along a beckside path lined with buttercup meadows, leading to the small village of Malham at around 3.30.

We were soon installed at Beck Hall, where a block corporate bonding booking for NHBC's training managers has relegated us to a room with a four poster bed and a small single bed. It's a satisfactorily large room, though. The café here is shut on Mondays, so we tottered off to the nearby Old Barn Café for a cream tea fix.

The Buck Inn has subsequently fed and watered us. We are feeling suitably bloated and are looking forward to an even shorter, but more sociable, day than usual tomorrow, for an amble over to Stainforth that will probably only take us until early afternoon to complete. But it will be sociable.

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Sunday, 12 June 2011

A Dales High Way - Day 2 - Ilkley to Skipton (Chinthurst B&B)

19km, 530 metres ascent, 5.1hrs incl stops.
Weather: fine morning, steadily clouding over, maturing into a drizzly afternoon.

After a bright start, today's weather went slowly downhill. But we can hardly complain, we reached Spencer's Café Bistro in Skipton soon after 2pm and took full advantage of their excellent tea and cakes (pictured).

This morning we headed back along the path to the south of the houses of Ilkley, continuing easily past the Swastika Stone, where a Victorian replica has been carved on a stone in front of the large boulder which houses the faint original markings from the Iron Age.

As we progressed gently up to Addingham High Moor we passed the sites of several more stones with cup and ring markings, but our main distraction was the constant bubbling trill of the resident curlews.

Shortly after Airedale came into view we headed north off the moor towards Addingham Moorside and in the general direction of Wharfedale. However, this 'High' route that we are walking eschews the delights (and crowds) of Wharfedale in favour of a direct line to Skipton by way of Moor Lane and a pathway known as 'The Street' and locally referred to as 'The Roman Road'. Despite official documents supporting that description that date back to the 19th century, there is no clear archaeological evidence to support the wide belief that our path follows the line of a Roman Road linking Ilkley with Elslack, near Skipton.

With rain looking imminent, we lunched just in time to avoid getting our butties wet, but we did leave our perch fully clad in waterproofs.

Whilst the views became muted by the drizzly weather, it was a very pleasant path across the tops and then down past an old toll house to the centre of Skipton and the comforts of the tea shop.

With plenty of time on our hands we decided to visit Skipton Castle, the site of a wooden fort from soon after 1090, which was replaced by a castle that passed to the Clifford family in 1310 and was their main residence for over 300 years. It's a magnificent and truly historic building, remarkably complete, and a pleasure to visit. As Andrew commented, shouldn't we be more appreciative of such places, especially when you consider that they pre-date sites like Macchu Picchu by several hundred years?

We had already learnt in the café that Chinthurst B&B is the best in Skipton, and given the friendly reception and our large, comfortable room, we can't disagree with that. Tonight's restaurant, Aagrar, has to be the best Kashmiri restaurant in Skipton. We've enjoyed a superb meal there, as has the owner of Aston Martin reg no R5OEL (think about it!).

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Saturday, 11 June 2011

A Dales High Way - Day 1 - Saltaire to Ilkley (Craiglands Hotel)

17km, 500 metres ascent, 3.7hrs incl stops.
Weather: fine, with sunny periods and a brisk SW breeze on higher ground.

Another day, another trip.

Andrew (aka Notchy) and I have set off on a 'luxury' backpacking trip from Saltaire to Appleby in eight days. We are following a route devised in 2007 by Saltaire residents, Chris and Tony Grogan.

Full details can be found at www.daleshighway.org.uk

A successful rendezvous at Manchester Piccadilly, followed by an hour and a half's £7 worth of efficient rail travel saw us in Saltaire by soon after noon.

We spent a while exploring the industrial village built by Titus Salt in the mid 19th century, a prime example of 'Victorian philanthropic paternalism'.

By 1892 Salt had been dead for 14 years and his company had gone into liquidation. It wasn't until the 1980s, when another visionary, Jonathan Silver, bought the old mill and introduced an interesting mix of uses, that a turn around started. The railway station reopened and the old mill cottages became desirable for young commuters. New shops, bars and cafés appeared and Saltaire was once again booming.

We can confirm that it remains a smart, vibrant place to this day - certainly that was the impression we gained whilst lunching at Vicars Cafe Bistro, near Victoria Hall, the venue for a recent Antiques Roadshow.

But we were here for a walk, and a very pleasant afternoon's stroll it was too, basically directly north to Ilkley. I took diversions to take in Hope Hill, as well as Ilkley Moor's 402 metre summit, and the Thimble Stones, but even those excursions involved little extra effort and we arrived conveniently outside our hotel directly from a footpath above the town.

It was good to see plenty of curlew today, after noting their scarcity during my recent walk across Scotland. Lapwings, skylarks, meadow pipits and a sparrowhawk were also very much in evidence, but there were no oyster catchers, and there seemed to be fewer birds than when I passed along a very similar route two years ago.

Whilst there was no sign of any moisture on the surface of the moors, numerous piles of paving slabs were strewn across the summit of Ilkley Moor, awaiting a path construction team, indicating that the moor is unusually dry just now!

We encountered a good smattering of walkers, runners and mountain bikers, including a man in a kilt and some scout leaders on Ilkley Moor who kindly took the above photo.

Below the spa baths at White Wells, which date from 1703, lies the prosperous town of Ilkley, where we later savoured the delights of its Piccolino restaurant. However, above White Wells, a 3500 year old stone circle, the Twelve Apostles, stood proud alongside our route, and Rombalds Moor sports numerous examples of prehistoric rock art dating from over 3000 years ago. Most of the 350 examples are off today's beaten tracks, but I did come across a couple of the sites as I descended from the moor towards Ilkley.

That's all for now. We are hoping for another fine day tomorrow.

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Thursday 9 June 2011 – Deepest Cheshire

Deepest Cheshire
In view of the formidable sound of this evening stroll:

“An adventure with Notchy - Deepest Cheshire - starting at 7.30 pm from The Egerton Arms, Chelford  - 9.16 km with 48 metres of ascent (but not all in one go!)”

the turnout of ten random people was something of a surprise, especially to Notchy, who, having walked the route earlier in the day, but having succumbed to short-term memory loss, tried hard to allay his fear of getting lost by gazing lovingly into the screen of his GPS unit all evening.

It was a lovely warm evening, with pleasant lanes, and paths beside sandpits, and not a drop of rain.

Deepest Cheshire, with sandpit

Two Johns were present, including ‘magician’ JJ, who helped Steve out:

“My shins hurt” announced Steve.

“I’ll carry you then” offered JJ.

“OK” agreed Steve, not realising that he was about to be sprinkled with JJ’s magic powder that he had found in a Roald Dahl first edition.

Man shoulders shrunken walker in surprise piggy back competition

Steve never really recovered from this, and had completely disappeared by the time we left the jolly bellringers of Chelford church to continue their appeal for his reappearance.

Here’s our 8.5 km route – very good for a two hour stroll, even if it was a bit shorter than broadcast.

Our route - 8.5km in a couple of hours

Thanks everyone for turning up – the evening programme is here – hope to see you again on 15 July in Hayfield.

(I may load a short slide show later – out of time now.)

Must go…another trip is beckoning…

Friday, 10 June 2011

2 to 6 June 2011 – A Long Weekend based at Windermere Youth Hostel

Windermere Youth Hostel, Troutbeck

There were eleven participants on this trip.  Whilst youth hostels aren’t particularly cheap these days, this one at Windermere has been nicely refurbished, with rooms for two or four people, some being en-suite, and with ample grounds and various prepared activities for children, such as orienteering, treasure hunting, etc.  In fact it is extremely child friendly, which is just as well as we had four under tens in our party, and Much Cheaper than a B&B or hotel.

Ten of us arrived on a hot Thursday afternoon.  Ben and Polly soon grabbed Sue when their mum and Dad dozed off.

Ben, Sue and Polly

We all then enjoyed a stroll up Wansfell Pike, with ‘Bubbles’ celebrating reaching the summit in style.

'Bubbles' Kate, on the summit of Wansfell Pike

Al and I went on to the summit of Wansfell, whilst the others raced us back to Troutbeck.  Some of them beat us, despite our running!

All that exercise meant good business for the bar at the hostel (yes, many youth hostels have licensed bars these days), and we were soon tucking in to Sue’s excellent sausage pasta dish.

"Cheers"

The pudding was Yummy – a repeat of the one we cooked for Lyn and Simon’s wedding ‘a few’ years ago.

Friday morning dawned hot and sunny, so everyone enjoyed a trip down to Windermere.

Windermere on a summer's morning

We caught the Bowness ferry and whilst some just lazed around on the western shore of the lake, others went for a ‘paddle’.  In the absence of swimwear, many of the images that record this episode could get me into trouble if I publish them here…

Anyway, everyone else adjourned to a boat trip to Ambleside, whilst I strolled back to the hostel via The Dales Way, The Windermere Way, and Orrest Head.  A lovely walk, albeit very hot, with fine views throughout, and especially towards the Kentmere Hills from Orrest Head.

A view from Orrest Head

It was thirsty work, and again we ate outside, today Al and Hazel being providers of plentiful pizza and salad.

Refreshments

Fiona had joined us on Friday afternoon, and she helped to coax Polly up Helm Crag on Saturday morning.  (Hot, sunny.  Boring isn’t it!)

Pausing on the steep ascent of Helm Crag

I was very happy by lunch time, having managed to scale the summit rock face (closely followed by a small girl).  It’s about as hard as I can manage without a rope!

Lunch by the summit of Helm Crag

Sue and Al also made it to the top, whilst others were happy to watch, before descending to play in a frothy beck, from where a short walk led to the Lancrigg Hotel.  A gem of a place, outside which we enjoyed massive servings of carrot cake and other delights, before returning for a well cooked YHA meal.

Sunday morning saw Lyn and Simon head off with their charges, but not before Aussie Stephen, from the hostel (a very patient man – we observed him working diligently in reception, where some guests fully expected the service that would be offered by a five star hotel – and got it) took this excellent group photo.

Team Photo: Simon, Polly, Lyn, Ben, Sue, Kate, Andrew, Hazel, Al, Fiona, Martin

The remaining seven of us headed off to Grizedale Forest on a cooler day, and enjoyed a romp around the ‘red’ trail over Carron Crag.

Numerous sculptures were encountered, as always in this forest, this one being near the summit of the crag.

One of many sculptures in Grizedale Forest

Then we all went home, after an extremely successful and enjoyable outing.  Very relaxing after the TGO Challenge!

Sue and I took lots of photos.  A selection of 50 is here, but if you were lucky enough to be on this particular trip, you may enjoy the ‘full works’, some 160 images, here.

Monday, 6 June 2011

Summer in Timperley (1)

Canada Geese by the Bridgewater Canal near Brooklands

We are back here for a few days (for the benefit of Gibson) after a very summery trip to the Lake District on which I will report later in the week.

Meanwhile, back at home, the swifts (who arrived at the end of April) are getting noisier, but I think may still be incubating under the eaves; the nettles down the ‘entry’ ginnel that gives access to the canal are growing uncontrollably; and the Canada Geese goslings (pictured above) are prancing around with all the confidence if not the aggression of their parents.

Nearby, the MSC Co (Manchester Ship Canal Company) barge known as ‘WF No 1’ is engaged in repairing the Bridgewater Canal at the point where constant use by the local rowing club has caused the stonework of the bank to collapse.  One of its jolly crew members claimed that ‘WF No 1’ was an abbreviation of ‘Wayne Forever No 1’.  I know better – this is one of several canal maintenance vessels - ‘Work Float No 1’.

Repairs to the Bridgewater Canal - damaged stonework caused by Manchester Rowing Club

Thursday, 2 June 2011

Wansfell


Here we are, in the sunshine with the pixies for a few days of R+R.

I'm taking a short break from mobile blogging whilst we are here, so a report will follow during the course of next week.

Enjoy the sunshine, everyone.

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