Thursday 9 September 2010 – Another ‘Big Macc Ramble’

It was a pleasure to be back on the old boneshaker today, for a two hour buzz around this familiar route.  Despite some rain, the sun did shine as I was passing Sparbent on my way down the rocky path towards Wildboarclough.

Whilst suspension may be nice, this bike is lighter and more manoeuvrable than The Tank.  I should have had it serviced and taken it on the Transalp trip.

I tried later to remove some of the accumulated grime, as it’s being serviced tomorrow*.  I got very oily!

* “The steel frame will last for ever” said Joe, when I took it in to Bikeshak.  So it’s a refurbishment, with some welcome advice - “full mudguards, and a new chain every six months, would be a good idea.”  So, am I still dreaming of a new bike?  Perhaps not.

Monday 6 September 2010 - A Stroll from Knonau

The local farmers were busy with their late summer activities as I started through the pretty village on an amble that had a final destination but no other plan.

The farmers of Knonau are cashing in.  Much of the land in the village seems to have been sold for housing.  Apartments for rent in large grey buildings.  Stamford Brook (in Timperley) on a grander scale.

Following the smell of freshly cut grass, and using an excellent 1:25000 scale map, resulted in the squares on the map passing quickly by, despite today's lack of pedal power.

I passed signs asking for information about missing cats; buzzards wheeled overhead; some say the two are linked by more than just their mewings.

Past the evidence of a good maize harvest, into green woodland not yet touched by Autumn.  Here, the distinctive yellow flowers of Touch-me-not were rampant, making a change from the Himalayan Balsam we endure at home.

The woods were full of fungi – here’s a Polyporaceae (perhaps Trametes versicolor).

Vaguely following a roundabout route towards Cham, I passed through the small hamlet of Niederroil, with its neatly rendered church and its quaint wooden houses.

Further on, past apple orchards laden with fruit, there was lots of ugly building work and roadworks at Hogendorn/Rumentikon, rendering my dogleg to that small town obsolete from the scenic angle.

Down by the River Louxe, a pleasant pathway led all the way to Cham.  The tree-lined river bank was in fact an arboretum, with a huge water treatment plant on the other side of the path.

Big fish swished against the current in the area of a large paper mill below the smart Reformatory Church of Chan.



It was very pleasant by the foot of Lake Zug, where I luxuriated on the warm, sunny day, watching the workers as they snatched a quick break beside the calm waters, looking across to nearby mountains that were faint on the horizon due to the haze.

Lots of information boards detailed the history of the area and its industrial heritage, but I understood little of the (Swiss?) German script.  An unkempt garden housed a sculpture - ‘Balance’ by Eva Burkey in 2000.

Strolling on past a nudist colony next to a children’s beach, a long line of bike racks led in to Zug, where an impressive building awaited.

Lunch by a children’s  playground revealed many English voices – there must be a significant ex-pat community around here.

With several hours to go before meeting Nick and Daniela, I headed up a few hundred metres to the Verena Chapel.  Very serene.

Then across to Blasenberg, my high point for the day at around 800 metres (the lake being at around 400 metres).  Farmers were working furiously in the dimming light due to the imminent onset of rain.

Then back to Zug to wait for N and D, who are having a hard time looking for permanent rented accommodation.  Swiss rules are getting them down.  I was able to people-watch for some time – many English voices, and caged birds - Ibis, Kookaburra, Snowy Owls and many more kept me entertained before we all enjoyed another alfresco meal, albeit dominated by bemoaning of the difficulties of moving from Shanghai to Zug. That’s a shame, because today I had discovered a lovely area full of paths, bike trails and fine views.  It should be a pleasure to live in such a place.

Here’s a Google Earth screen dump of the area.  My wanderings amounted to about 20 km and 500 metres of ascent in a very leisurely 9 hours or so.

The images above are just a small selection of the many taken on this leisurely stroll.  The rest are in this 68 image slideshow, should anyone be interested.

Going Home - Torbole to Manchester

Saturday:
Josef's Ford Transit Estate Van proved an ideal way of transporting us and the bikes to Dornbirn, being rather more convenient than the 'Bike Bus', and cheaper even after paying all his expenses.
It took around 7 hours, then there was the Cleaning of the Bike.
Markus's remains dirty!
A trip back to the pub/restaurant by the Rolls Royce museum yielded an excellent meal of spetzl and salad, then Markus and I were picked up by Jutta (just returned from Thailand) and driven around for a while whilst Wolfie (just returned from his own Transalp crossing and the successful summiting of Gran Paradiso and Castor) pondered the nature of his birthday/wedding anniversary surprise.
Unfortunately he turned out to be not quite as skilled at ten-pin bowling as he is at climbing 4000 metre Alpine summits, but, joined by Ange and Dominic we all enjoyed Jutta's excellent choice of venue.
A very jolly evening.
Sunday:
Leaving Markus to luxuriate in his own company at his flat (ie for a change he didn't have to put up with my snoring), I also enjoyed a good sleep in W+J's spare room. Markus joined us for breakfast and a slide show from Wolfie, then The Tank was returned, shiny but used, to its generous owner.
After 11 days of my non-stop company, it was probably to his great relief that there remained no further impediment to Markus dropping me into Switzerland to enable me to resume my journey at St. Margrethen railway station.
It was a smooth ride to Zurich on a sunny day. Just one minor difficulty - I was nearly two days early for my flight home.
Whilst a stroll around Zurich on a holiday Sunday in the sunshine did pleasantly pass some of that time, 48 hours of such strolling could inevitably prove to be something of an endurance test.
Until very recently, a visit to Nick and Daniela would have involved a trip to Shanghai. Luckily, they have returned to Europe thanks to Nick's success in getting a job with SKINS, who make compression base layer garments and bikewear,
and are based in Zug, just south of Zurich. They live temporarily in nearby Knonau, so I headed out there, armed usefully with Nick's email and mobile contact details. The inconvenience of my arriving just after they had returned from five days at Eurobike didn't show, and we enjoyed an evening of leisure and catching up.
Monday:
No further progress towards Manchester was achieved today. A delightful country walk to Cham and Zug in lovely warm, sunny weather occupied most of my day (see separate posting if I get around to it), before spending another pleasant evening with the Workers, Nick and Daniela.
Tuesday:
A leisurely departure from Knonau in deteriorating weather has returned me to Zurich, and onwards to the airport, where I've failed to succumb to the vigorous Volvo S60 and Honda CR-Z advertisements and am waiting at the gate for the EasyJet flight to Manchester.
I'll be home for lunch!
The images are from Zurich and Cham - I'll leave you to work out which is which...

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Friday 3 September 2010 - Chilling Out in Riva/Torbole

Wow! A lie in!

From my bed I could see green hillside merging into grey cloud that concealed the summit of Monte Baldo. But as the senses awakened, sunshine on the Pregasina hillside indicated a fine day, with just a touch of cloud on the highest tops.

A full breakfast was followed by a trip to a nearby bike mechanic, where 30 minutes and €20 later the rear brake on the bike I will never ride again was as good as new.

After enjoying a coffee with Markus in the harbour area whilst on bike repair duty, he took to the pool and I strolled into Riva.

The day's exertions were restricted to the 150 metre ascent to the Bastione (pictured, along with the view down to Riva from its balcony) along a pleasant winding path, but sufficiently energetic to warrant a beer at the top. A via ferrata route starts near here, but I had no equipment.

That's my excuse!

Back at Torbole by late afternoon, Josef and Elisabeth had arrived. They had driven all the way from Dornbirn this morning to enjoy an afternoon beside Lago di Garda before transporting us and the bikes back to Dornbirn tomorrow.

We enjoyed a pleasant, albeit uneventful (unless something happened in Voralberg German that I didn't notice), evening with them.

Next Posting - Going Home
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Transalp '10 - Epilogue

Regular readers will know that I find this 'post trip' entry necessary as a means of inserting an index and some links to try to make reading the trip report in chronological order that much easier, and to provide more by way of resource for anyone wishing to emulate our pleasurable Transalp experience.

So the index will be linked from here.

And there will be a link to a web page with only a brief daily summary, a kit list, and other useful information.

There will also be a slide show.

The image is one of many taken but not used in earlier postings, chosen as it typifies the scenery through which a Transalp crossing will pass.

Next Posting - Chilling out in Riva and Torbole
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Transalp '10 - Day 8 - 2 September 2010 - Val d'Algone to Torbole

Route: Albergo Brenta – Preore – Tione di Trento – Storo – Passo di Tremalzo - Passo/Bocca di Various (circa 1800m) - Pregasina – Riva – Torbole (Night: Hotel Villa Franca)
Distance: 80-85 km (Total: 395-435 km)
Ascent: 1950 metres (Total: 13900 metres)
Descent: 3050 metres (Total: over 14000 metres)
Time: 9.5 hours (Total: 69 hours)
[Distances subject to checking when I get home, otherwise fairly accurate.]
A fitting last day. Markus's quote for the day: "If you haven't tackled the downhill from Tremalzo to Riva, you haven't lived."
In keeping with most other days the Esteemed Coordinator changed our planned route, this time to a more challenging day with a fine final descent.
After a brisk descent to Tione in the cool morning air we abandoned our detailed maps once again. "It should be an easy valley descent to Storo" remarked our leader, scrutinising my A4 sheet covering our entire route. My eyes told a different story, so the 350 metre ascent to a col were less of a surprise to me than to the rather miffed and optically challenged Coordinator.
The extra height gained did however result in quite a swift 20km, 400m descent to Storo, albeit on a rather unpleasant main road, aided for part of the way by the slipstream of three German Transalp cyclists.
The first 40km of the day had taken just two hours, and we were rewarded by coffee and croissants at a pleasant café in Storo, our breakfast at Albergo Brenta having been rather inadequate.
Now, the chosen route and our final significant climb, was the 1300 metre haul up to Tremalzo. Sue will recall this, as we drove up the road a few weeks ago, passing many cyclists on the way. It would be hard work, I knew that, so I bought some chocolate.
For the first 300 metres of ascent along the main road to Riva via Lago di Ledro, I kept falling behind Markus (as usual) but with a bit of grit between my teeth I always managed to haul him back, so we arrived together at the turn where a minor road leads up to Tremalzo.
Photos were taken. A stream of bike buses was dropping off cyclists here, or taking them all the way to the col, much to Markus's disgust. He is outraged by this behaviour, taking the view that they should cycle up from Riva. I think it seems like a nice afternoon out - starting from the top. After all, we don't plan to cycle back to Bludenz; or perhaps I am missing something.
"You go ahead" Markus surprised me. Perhaps he doesn't want his usual long wait at the top, I thought. "There will be a treat at 1000 metres and at 1500 metres" I promised, assuming Markus would be tailing me all the way.
I set off, going quite well for a change. In fact, rising at over 550 metres an hour compared with my previous best of 400 metres in an hour. 1000 metres came; no sign of Markus. I'll treat him by not making him wait, I thought, and continued up to the top, passing quite a few Transalpers on the way. None passed me. I am no longer the slowest Transalper. I was pleased. Markus was Not Impressed. Unbeknown to me he was suffering from a minor medical problem and had not requested the antidote that I carry. So he was sore, and had missed his treats, when he finally arrived at the top.
I bought him some lunch, and we were friends again. I think.
The lunch at Rif Garda was rather poor, so perhaps I owe him another treat.
Anyway, my superhuman effort to make it up at a reasonable pace meant that we had plenty of time to enjoy the long descent to Riva. This had been A Worry.
It's a stony uphill track to a short tunnel, then a superb (if stony - suspension is useful) undulating journey on a fairly busy track compared to most that we have been on, over Passo di Various along track 421 and then down path 422. We mistakenly took a steep footpath for part of the descent to Pregasina, rather than the accepted bike route, but it made for a bit extra excitement and we made it down intact.
The upper sections of this fine route are along sweeping stony tracks high on the vertiginous mountainside above Lago di Garda. Care is needed, as are frequent stops to admire the views to Monte Baldo and elsewhere - a little hazy today but not as bad as last time I was here.
Below Pregasina the bike track follows the course of the old road, gently descending along the edge of the abyss below which the green waters of Lago di Garda await the unwary. It's a superb descent to Riva, and a fitting conclusion to any Transalp trip.
Giant ice creams were our chosen celebratory fare, then we pootled along Lago di Garda's busy cycle tracks, narrowly avoiding several fatal incidents, to Torbole and the luxurious Hotel Villa Franca. Pizzas, beers, and tiramisu for Markus ("The Best Ever") concluded an excellent day and a fine trip through the Alps.
The image is the view towards Rocchetta Giochello that I have enjoyed from my bench in Riva whilst composing this entry.
Thanks to those who have commented, latterly to Louise and The Weekend Dude, and to Sue for the 'Pass Out' - it's a shame you weren't able to join us here in sunny Riva. I hope you've all enjoyed these entries from your armchairs. We've certainly had a great time in 'The Saddle'.
Next time: The Epilogue...

Next Posting - Epilogue
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Torbole - we've Arrived

Here's our view, earlier this afternoon, from above Pregasina.

Riva is hidden to the left, but our destination, Torbole, where we are safely installed in a good hotel for a couple of nights, is in clear view at the head of Lago di Garda on a sunny afternoon.

We have a day of leisure tomorrow, during which I'll enjoy writing the posting for our final, most satisfying, day.

Now we are off to celebrate Markus's fourth and my first Transalp success.

Next Posting - Day 8
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Transalp '10 - Day 7 - 1 September 2010 - Dimaro to Val d'Algone

Route: Dimaro – Madonna di Campiglio – Lago di Val d´Agola – Passo Bregn del Ors (1836 m) – Val d'Algone (Night: Albergo Brenta)
Distance: 40-45 km
Ascent: 1700 metres
Descent: 1300 metres
Time: 8.5 hours
The 'Jolly' breakfast lived up to its reputation. More bits kept arriving. They are proud of their sumptuous continental breakfast fare.
Gloves and windshirts were deployed for the long forest track up to the posh town of Madonna. It was cool, even down at 800 metres. But sunny, if you were not in the shadow of the mountains. We were in that shadow, cast by the northern ramparts of the Brenta Dolomites, for well over two hours.
There weren't extensive views from the woods (mainly pine, with dashing black squirrels) through which the LRT (land rover track) styled cycle path passed. We just rose slowly (a bit more quickly in Markus's case) up the 950 metre slope, occasionally on foot on the steeper sections in my case. A few cyclists passed me, travelling much faster than I could contemplate.
I am the slowest Transalper, or should that be 'Transalpiniste'? Hundreds have passed me during the past week. I have yet to gain that satisfaction, and am not expecting it to come my way.
I'd pushed on as hard as possible to get to Madonna. We arrived after 3 hours, before 11.30, in plenty of time to get my brake attended to at the bike shop before it shut for lunch. A swarm of Swiss cyclists with another brake problem delivered the bad news. Despite the array of new bikes outside, the shop was shut. "Just take a new one" some wag suggested.
So, after pausing for cappucini in the Suisse Bar, we continued south along a pleasantly downhill and windy path, to Bar Ristorante Cascate - situated in a wonderful position adjacent to some extensive waterfalls and with a view to the glaciated plateau from which the Adamello peaks protrude. Very pleasant, and there was not enough wind today to blow our pasta bolognaise into the river.
Having refuelled, we BOTH flew down a few hundred metres of descent. We had swapped bikes. I found Markus's fine, and could keep up for a change. He declared my rear brake to be working if you apply enough pressure. I must try harder! I think part of the problem is my unfamiliarity with disc brakes, which I had always assumed would be sharper than my 'non-discs'. The opposite appears to be the case...
This is all a bit puzzling. I will now leave the subject and try hard to be braver with the braking tomorrow.
Anyway, we swapped back and headed up another LRT, blagging our way past a road closure by carrying the bikes above a precipice. After a pretty lake, Lago di Val d´Agola, with a wonderful Brenta Dolomites backdrop marred only by the presence of a large crane, we endured a steep 250 metre 'push' to the day's high point, Passo Bregn del Ors (1836 m). We lingered (pictured) in that beautiful spot, surrounded by Dolomitic peaks. High above us was Passo 12 Apostoli and its nearby rifugio, from where Alan Roberts brought a signpost home to Cheshire - collected during a memorable 'Via delle Bocchette' trip, if my memory serves me.
An enjoyable 600 metre descent down Val d'Algone on stony LRTs brought us neatly to tonight's resting place, Albergo Brenta, where Markus had booked us in long before I arrived. "I overtook three cars" he proudly claimed.
This was all nicely done by 6.30, whilst Markus enjoyed his afternoon nap, only to find that Orange (aka Tim) hasn't reached these parts just yet. Anyway, we've now had a lovely meal and need lots of rest in preparation for the final episode of this 'Two Men on a Bummel' escapade, which will be in progress when this posting finally transmits....
Now it's back to 'Rum Doodle' to study how this sort of trip should be 'properly' orchestrated!

Next Posting - Torbole, we've Arrived
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Transalp '10 - Day 6 - 31 August 2010 - La Baita to Dimaro

Route: Val Rezzalo – Passo dell´Alpe – Passo Gavia (2618 m) – Pezzo – Ponte di Legno - Passo del Tonale – Ossana - Dimaro (Night: Jolly Bar/B+B)
Distance: 60-65 km
Ascent: 1550 metres
Descent: 2650 metres
Time: 8.0 hours
The day dawned cold and clear. A dusting of fresh snow on the nearby mountains of the Stelvio National Park remained as evidence of the onset of Autumn.
Alessandro provided a good breakfast, then we kitted up. My 'leg warmers' went on for the first time, fitting neatly under my cycling shorts. They had been purchased in deference to Markus's kit list. They stayed on all day. Markus hadn't brought his. "I've not needed them on any of my previous three Transalp crossings" he explained, "but I've never been as cold on any crossing as I was today."
We started off, now with the benefit of a map, along a land rover track, heading up a further 600 metres to Passo dell´Alpe. I tried to cycle, but after 50 metres or so it was just too steep for me. Markus kept going for a bit longer, but was soon pushing, just a bit further up the hill.
So including yesterday's final 400 metres, I had now pushed The Tank up nearly 1000 continuous metres. Markus seemed surprised to hear that I hadn't enjoyed it. I realise that some pushing is necessary on this sort of trip. But 1000 metres? It would have been great in the other direction!
The short descent to the Gavia road would have been fun with fully functional brakes.
That concluded our off-roading for the day, as Markus subsequently deemed it too cold to venture over Bochetta di Montozzo.
No brakes were needed for the scenic 350 metre ascent to Passo Gavia (2618 m), where Rifugio Bonetta provided welcome cappuccinos, and a helpful lady who was guiding a couple of German mountain bikers explained the problem with my brake. I have accidentally got air into the system, and it needs a special machine to remove it. She kindly explained how best to ride to handle the problem.
Enticing paths to nearby summits; jagged peaks which on the map are riddled with red dashed lines; this area is one to visit with a pair of walking boots and a via ferrata kit. It looks great. Today's image, entitled 'Dressed to Kill', was taken at Lago Blanco, by Passo Gavia. Unlike my companion, the camera shy Austrian fashion guru, I was very warm thank you...
The 1300 metre descent to Ponte di Legno, mostly down a narrow road, was negotiated slowly, but safely. Near the bottom we sat outside a nice little restaurant and stuffed ourselves with spaghetti carbonara, wolfing it down as fast as we could to avoid it joining the Fanta can on a trip to the nearby river, borne by an icy blast from the gusty wind. Why didn't we eat inside? It was sunny...
We passed a little above the main part of Ponte di Legno. Down below a puff of smoke increased in intensity; it started to billow - a dark grey plume. At the source, in the middle of the road, flames leapt high into the sky. Fire engines rushed to the scene. A helicopter arrived. As we rose up the Tonale road our view became clearer, partly due to the emergence of my binoculars from the depths of my bag. Two thirds of a bus were sitting astride the blocked road, a grimy black smudge marking where the rest of the vehicle had once been. We hope everyone got out before the fire took hold.
The road up to Passo del Tonale, where an ugly ski resort reminded me of Andorra, was busy but wide enough not to be unpleasant, especially as it rose only 600 metres over a distance of 8km.
The 900 metre descent to Ossana, over more than twice that distance, was down a moderately gentle gradient, so quite enjoyable even with dodgy brakes. Then half an hour along the busy main road to Bolzano and Trento took us to the village of Dimaro, from where an off-road cycle route is on the agenda for tomorrow (I'm looking forward to that!).
I came across Markus, halted outside a B+B, chatting to a mountain biker. This chap, Robert, seemed to have connections with the B+B, and we were soon installed in two very nice double rooms, but not before Markus had discovered a hose pipe and assiduously cleaned his dusty bike. My bike is also a bit grimy, but I obstinately declined to show any enthusiasm for cleaning it, I just don't see the point in doing this before the end of the trip. I'm not sure whether Markus understands; perhaps I'm letting down the owner of The Tank by failing to wash it at every opportunity, though he can rest assured - it'll be returned fully cleansed!
The 'Jolly' B+B even got us a discount at the Dolomiti restaurant, purveyors of fine pizzas, Hacker-Pschoff beer and cappuccinos of the liquid and frozen varieties that concluded our Transalp proceedings for the day.
Thank you, SAHH (Stay At Home Hazel), for your comment; I hope you and the pixies have a nice day out tomorrow.

Next Posting - Day 7
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Transalp '10 - Day 5 - 30 August 2010 - Arnoga to La Baita

Route: Arnoga – Passo di Verva (2301 m) – Eita – Grosio - Sondalo – Le Prese – Fumaro – Baita Rezzalo (Night: Rifugio La Baita)
Distance: 40-45 km
Ascent: 1800 metres
Descent: 1800 metres
Time: 8.5 hours
First, thanks for the comments, and sorry about the delay in sending this. We are at one of those rare places in Italy with no 'phone signal. There is actually an internet connection, but so slow I've failed to log into blogger or identify 'BrextonT', who should be aware that I may be tagging along with Alastair for the Calderdale Marathon in much the same way as we tackled the Macc Half Marathon last year.
Last night's hotel occupied the eye of a hairpin. This morning both sides of our room revealed a wet road. A leisurely breakfast was in order, before we said goodbye to Hans and Danni, paid our bill (€74 each for half board plus drinks - fortunately not as much as advertised on the back of our door), and donned our waterproofs.
We seem to have developed a habit of starting at 8.30 and finishing at 5.00 (give or take), and today was no exception, though I fear it may have been had we taken the planned route over Passo della Forcola.
The rain hit as we descended briefly on a land rover track before turning up the scenic valley littered with information boards that leads eventually to Passo di Verva.
We were the only visitors today to the high valleys either side of the pass. Perhaps this was due to the sleety rain that was falling as snow above about 2200 metres.
Luckily the storm subsided as we reached the pass, where on 10 July 2010 a memorial to the Italian soldiers of WW1 had been erected. It was still very shiny!
I'd enjoyed the ascent, despite the cold rain, as I was tucked up nice and warm in various layers of gear, and the not so steep, but rather gravelly track seemed like home ground. Markus lagged behind, for a change. He says he was optically challenged.
There was a fair amount of bird life, with Pied Wagtails, Chaffinches, Wheatears and various larger 'brown jobs' in evidence, though yesterday's fly catching Martins and similar were, for obvious reasons, not around today.
The 500 metre descent to Eita was also fun, over equally rough ground, but the subsequent 1100 metre drop to Grosio was a bit of a nightmare for me. The most challenging hour of this trip. It should have been quick and fun, a rapid blast down damp tarmac. But my newly serviced rear brake didn't play ball. It has all but failed and needs attention from a tool that we don't possess.
Anyway, whilst Markus thinks I could have been braver with the front brake, that doesn't have an anti-lock system, so I took extreme care.
Arriving in one piece in Grosio, we headed straight to the friendly Albergo Sassella (a bikers hotel) to share a pasta for lunch.
Outside, one of a group of motorcyclists dropped his bike, much more of a tank than mine, onto a car. I was impressed that instead of riding off, the bikers tried to seek out the car owner, and left their details.
Having by-passed our planned route over Passo della Forcola due to the weather, which actually improved after Passo di Verva, we now set about tackling a 1200 metre ascent to La Baita (www.rezzalovacanze.com). A main road took us slowly up, as we battled with a head wind, to rejoin our planned route at Sondalo, then on to Le Prese, from where we took a minor road for 7km to Fumero. It was steep and zigzagy for 600 metres. Markus went ahead. He wanted to test his ability to cycle all the way to La Baita, as he had failed on a hot day in June last year. He succeeded, but I pushed the final 400 metres of ascent from Fumero, unaware of any 'challenge'. It was a lovely sunny afternoon, but cold, as was Markus after waiting for me for 30 minutes.
Alessandro was waiting outside for us on his sunny verandah sheltered from the cold wind. We are his only guests tonight in the waterwheel powered 20 bed rifugio.
A beer went down well. Markus was delighted to find a hose to wash his bike, and gleefully accepted Alessandro's offer to wash our clothes.
He assured us it will be clean and dry by morning, then fed us with a mixed salad, mushroom risotto, succulent chunks of pork ribs with courgettes, and Italian cake. Our best meal to date perhaps, and probably the cheapest.
It's very jolly here, albeit there are just the three of us. The rifugio is in a splendid setting at around 1900 metres. Today's images were taken this evening, from the front door, shortly after the sun had disappeared over our horizon.

Next Posting - Day 6
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Transalp '10 - Day 4 - 29 August 2010 - Lü to Arnoga

Route: Lü – Alp Champatsch – Pass dal Fuorn – Alp da Munt – Buffalora – Jufplaun – Lago Livigno – Passo di Fraele – Lago di San Giacomo – Trepalle – Bochetta Trelina – Arnoga (Night: Hotel Li Arnoga)
Distance: 35-40 km
Ascent: 1400 metres
Descent: 1450 metres
Time: 8.75 hours
These stats are estimates taken from 1:50000 maps where we have them, and from my watch when I remember to look at it. Times include breaks of around 1.5 to 2 hours each day.
Today was a lovely sunny one, as shown in the previous posting, but a cold northerly breeze led to our deploying wind shirts and gloves for much of the day. This didn't spoil our pleasure of stopping in high Alpine positions to admire the views and 'chill out' from time to time, as pictured - me on a bench this morning.
Today's mileage was modest, so we took our time. Our route passed through fine Alpine scenery and hardly touched any tarmac.
We ascended yesterday's descent route to Alp Champatsch, then took a high level traverse to Pass dal Fuorn, past a fine selection of late alpine flowers, including Alpine Eyebright with its miniature yellow petals, ubiquitous Field Gentians, a large (as in big-petaled) variety of 'Spring' Gentian, and numerous bellflowers, heathers and thistles, to name but a few.
The verges were frosty; the glaciated dome of the Ortler massif stood proud to the south east, and we met many walkers and a lone cyclist with panniers on this last Sunday of the main summer holiday season.
Pass dal Fuorn was busy with motorists and bikers of the engined variety, but we found a sunny table in Hotel Süsom Givè from which to enjoy views to the Ortler to accompany cappucini, nut cake and apfelstrudel.
Then a brisk descent and a short push before a glorious meandering track led to the Italian border. We stopped for a while to soak in the sun near a border stone and a proliferation of Edelweiss.
"One of the best MTB routes in the world", according to my esteemed Coordinator, then led us dramatically down a swooping zigzag path, to Lago Livigno. It was brilliant.
On the subsequent tracks to Lago di San Giacomo we met hordes of mountain bikers. We had entered the 'Transalp Biking Zone'. Apparently some 500,000 people enjoy Transalp trips every year, many of them guided.
Not many Brits, I suspect.
A shared bowl of pasta (we didn't want to spoil our appetites) at Rifugio San Giacomo fuelled us for the gruelling ascent to Trepalle and thence to Bochetta Trelina (I think).
"Where's the next map?" I enquired, when we dropped off the bottom of Wanderkarte 259T - 'Ofenpass'.
"At home" came the reply "but I know the way."
At least we have the Coordinator's overview and an A4 sheet covering our entire route, but tomorrow's mileage could be guesswork.
A fast dirt road along the edge of a precipice took us quickly to our unexpectedly expensive hotel in Arnoga, but the four course meal was excellent.
We were joined later by Hans, doing a 5-day Transalp route with a friend. They were having a good trip. Hello Hans, if you read this; I shall enjoy reading your own report.
One section towards the end of today involved a 400 metre ascent. First up a steep track that Markus managed to cycle whilst I walked. Then we both walked the final 150 metres up a cow track that should have been a footpath. Markus carried his bike over pools of slurry interspersed with bog, whilst I pushed mine. The bike is like a tank compared with my own old bike. Probably 15-20 kilos, so lifting it for any length of time is not on. I try to push it. I'm not complaining; it's a fine bike, but it may be like trying to ride a Ducati 500 after being used to a Honda 50, I suppose!
I understand there may be a bit more 'pushing' tomorrow. "Necessary for the best mountain views and to minimise tarmac sections" expounds Markus.
And I think I agree with him...

Next Posting - Day 5
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A Sunny Day in the Alps

We are taking it easy. It's a short day, so there are plenty of stops to admire views like this one, on the Swiss/Italian border beyond Pass dal Fuorn.

Next Posting - Day 4
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Transalp '10 - Day 3 - 28 August 2010 - Zernez to Lü

Route: Zernez – Susch – Ardez – Scuol – San Jon – Val S-charl – S-charl – Alp Astras – Passo da Costainas (2251 m) – Lü (Night: Gasthaus Hirschen) [As planned]
Distance: 55-60 km
Ascent: 1800 metres
Descent: 1350 metres
Time: 8.75 hours
Markus's sentence for the day:
"I am not The Boss; I am just The Coordinator."
From our window, once daylight had taken hold, I could see the mountains come and go. Outside, rain pattered in the puddles it had created on the flat roof. It was a day for Sealskinz socks and full waterproofs.
Breakfast at the Bäer (aka Bär) Hotel was a sumptuous affair, taking our minds off the hardships to come. But by 8.30 we were on the road again, splashing through the puddles on yesterday's muddy track.
On a positive note, we were heading downhill. Through Susch to Lavin, where we crossed to the north bank of the River En and rose gently on excellent cycle tracks through a series of picture postcard villages that would eventually lead us all the way up to 1700 metres before dropping steeply down to deposit us beside the river again at Scuol.
En route to Scuol we passed thus through Guarda, then above Ardez to Flan, where the prospect of coffee and cake drew us into the only café. We weren't disappointed.
A man on a bike, both covered in mud, flew past. We ventured back outside, the rain having eased to 'intermittent', for a final ascent before the plunge down to Scuol.
More bikers flew past. They were travelling light apart from the caking of mud (still only a thin veneer compared with the Calderdale Marathon!), but their presence - they were flying past every few seconds despite the fact that we (I?) were travelling at top speed - was somewhat disconcerting. They were in a race - The Swiss Naturepark Bike Marathon. The main event is a 130km off road ride, with over 4000 metres of ascent, but even though the winner takes only six and a half hours, he couldn't catch us. The short event, only some 50+km with 800 metres ascent, starts near Zernez and follows our morning's route. It was these people who were catching us. They looked very keen as they flew down to the finish at Scuol.
We had wondered all morning why crowds of people had been cheering us on. We had been leading the Swiss Bike Marathon!
After that the 1100 metre ascent to Passo da Costainas (2251 m) was positively peaceful, especially as the rain had stopped.
Lunch was taken at the hamlet and bus terminus of S-charl (pictured), at the end of a long dirt road frequented by numerous walkers and a few other bikers, including a man on a curiously clean orange bike who flew past as if we were stationary, before he slowed down and fell off.
After that, easy going on a good track then a narrow, slightly technical, path to the scenic pass, where we lingered for a while with a German biker.
Then a rocky descent - care needed, we had to dismount on some steep sections, led to a contemplative break in the sun (The Coordinator insists on these) before the final fast downhill section to our five roomed refuge in Lü.
A sociable evening and a filling spag bol washed down with expensive Swiss beer completed another excellent day.
I have to finish now as Markus has decreed "lights out".
Goodnight.

Next Posting - A Sunny Day in the Alps
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Transalp '10 - Day 2 - 27 August 2010 - St. Antönien to Zernez

Route: St. Antönien – Küblis – Klosters – Laret – Davos – Dörfji – Flüelapass (2383 m) – Susch – Zernez (Night: Hotel Bär)
Distance: 60-65 km
Ascent: 1900 metres
Descent: 1900 metres
Time: 8.5 hours
Q: "Markus, could I have a sentence from you for today's blog, please?"
A: "S**t weather; I'm a fair weather biker; roll on Italy - sunshine and dolce vita."
We started with an excellent 600 metre descent to Küblis, where the Co-op provided sustenance for the day.
Then a gradual ascent to Klosters on good bike tracks, under increasingly heavy skies. Coffee and cake in a nice café, watching cars in the road outside turning on their wipers.
Up more undulating cycle tracks, with waterproofs on and off, then definitely On. Somehow I got ahead, then missed a turn in the downpour. Usually Markus stops at such junctions even though I carry the map. Serves me right for going ahead. So I found myself on the main road to Davos on a wet day. Uphill. I been in nicer places. I could liken this to the main road from Macc to Buxton in the rain.
We rendezvoused at a station then found a restaurant. It was p***ing down outside. We stayed for nearly an hour. Option 3 was discussed, and then actioned. This involved the 900 metre ascent by road of Flüelapass (2383 m).
It took two hours. The rain eased, and briefly continued whilst the sun shone from the west. The traffic was a bit of a nuisance but we made it to the top, as confirmed by today's image.
The 900 metre descent to Susch, unrelentingly downhill for over 10km, was routine for Markus. Sue and I had envied cyclists on such descents on our recent trip to Italy. I can confirm that it's as much fun as it looks. One of the most enjoyable 10-15 minutes I've had on a bike. I tried to explain this to Markus, adding
"You just can't do this in the UK".
"The other options were much better" he retorted.
The undulating cycle track from Susch to Zernez was a bit muddy after the rain. Markus doesn't really like mud. It was a bit like the Bridgewater Canal towpath after a light shower. We have to return along it tomorrow.
"I suggest we use the road" hazarded The Boss."
A: "No!"
Anyway, we got to Hotel Bär at 5pm, a very respectable hour, so enjoyed a beer before checking in. Having dried out nicely we were both much perkier than yesterday, when the heat seemed to take its toll more than today's rain.
The hotel is excellent. We have the penthouse. The restaurant serves good food. The beer flows nicely. And there's a helpful and friendly manager.
Finally, in response to comments:
Sue - neither of us went to sleep for some time...
Paul - have a great time around Arolla, it's a lovely area.
Alan - vaseline is a wonderful substance...
Alan Sloman - Markus went searching for you tonight, he thought it was the sort of place where you would jump from the shadows, in traditional dress! (Hope all is well BTW, and "hello" from both of us.)

Next Posting - Day 3
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Transalp '10 - Day 1 - 26 August 2010 - Bludenz to St. Antönien

Route: Bludenz - Schruns – Tschagguns – Tilisunaalpe – Grubenpass (2232 m) – Partnunsee – St. Antönien (Night: Berggasthaus Michelshof)

Distance: 30-35 km
Ascent: 1800 metres
Descent: 850 metres
Time: 8.5 hours

And tomorrow's plan is 60 km with 2300 metres ascent. I wonder how we'll fare, as we are both a bit tired after today's exertions, summarised by Markus (we are sharing a room and he needs my light to go off in order to sleep so this has to be brief) as "The English mountain biker who went up a hill and came down a mountain."

In truth, after a 12km warm up on the gently rising cycle path from Bludenz to Schruns, it was quite a long, unrelentingly steep apart from one short but memorable section through some woods, gravel track up to 2000 metres. About 10 cars and 5 mountain bikers were encountered, all except one car were on their way down.

Above 2000 metres the (heavy) bikes had to be pushed and carried a further 200-300 metres to Grubenpass. A fine viewpoint with brightly lit mountains. I should have mentioned that it's been a day of high heat and unrelenting sunshine. Lesser mortals may have succumbed to heat exhaustion but we are made of sterner stuff!

The pushing and carrying continued for much of the way down, from which you may correctly surmise that the path was undulating and rough. Markus hadn't been here before. It was an experiment.

My damaged knee was painful but held out, but the 'sting in the tail' 50 metre ascent to our guest house was not really appreciated.

We do have a nice view from our room though (pictured above as I forgot to take any other blog photos today).

Right. Markus needs sleep. Goodnight.

PS Now proof read by The Boss.
"You missed the Highland Cattle, Ibex and Marmots we saw, and the fact that we have drunk gallons of liquid and you are at least as tired as I am."

Next Posting - Day 2
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Transalp '10 - Prologue - 25 August 2010 (Part 2)

4.00 pm: A bit of background: this trip came about during some correspondence with our good friend Markus, the Austrian TGO Challenger, concerning his 'Caledonian Trail' on which I joined him for a few days in April.

"Do you fancy an Alpine journey in early September?" I had queried in passing.

"No, because I'm already going on a Transalp bike ride" was the response; "You're invited!"

So, after carrying out a small test on our local canals, I accepted the kind invitation.

Now, on a Wednesday afternoon in late August, I find myself rummaging through an assortment of gear in Markus's brother's flat in Dornbirn, whilst Markus gets his office work up to date and packs his own small bag. We are staying in hotels, so don't need much. But there does seem (see picture) to be quite a bit to rummage through!

Thanks go to Wolfgang - absent on a guided Transalp bike ride - and his wife Jutta - on holiday in Thailand - for the use of their well-appointed flat.

5.30 pm: Markus returns and we head off to collect my bike. It's seven years old but after being serviced earlier today looks new to me. Markus's friend (pictured in a recent posting) has sold it, so it's this new owner, "a friend of a friend" says Markus, who is lending it to me.

Then it was off to Gasthof Gutle, by the Rolls Royce museum, for a leisurely beer, before returning to town for more carbo-loading via pizzas at the Bella Napoli. With a van outside emblazoned with the words "BBQ eat as much as you can", we could have been...well, anywhere really.

A bit of rest is now in order as we have a longer day than expected tomorrow. The mileage has more than doubled due to the railway line between Bludenz and Schruns being closed, with the replacement bus service not taking bikes.

So there will be a sting in the proboscus?

Next Posting - Day 1
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Transalp '10 - Prologue - 25 August 2010 (Part 1)

5.20 am: wake to a dewy day in Timperley.

6.15 am: have been transported (thanks, Sue) to busy Ringway Airport where security checks are much more efficient than in the past. Now happily ensconced with coffee and croissant.

7.20 am: on EZY1865 airbus, ready to leave on time (7.20). I'm next to a chatty couple who are visiting their daughter.

7.45 am: sprint down the runway, past geeky plane spotters, and up above a misty Peak District. Early visitors to those parts may have enjoyed an inversion. Rise above queues of commuters striving to get to work in the Potteries, before settling at 39000 feet, our peaceful sunlit cabin now shielded from the bustle below by a thin veneer of cloud. It's a jolly crew, and there are reassuring words from the captain; it seems normal on such flights to leave up to 30 minutes late and still arrive on time.

10.15 am: we've lost an hour to the European clock, but after deserting the cloud and starting a long descent at Paris, we disembark at Zurich with timing to Swiss watch precision.

10.35 am: Markus draws up, with Austrian precision. Only 5 minutes late!

12.00 noon: we are happily lunching outside Berghof Fetz, at Bödele, high above Dornbirn, on a lovely warm afternoon.

1:30 pm: I'm stuffed (see picture, lunch is usually toast). Is this 'carbo loading'?

Next Posting - Prologue 2
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Tuesday 24 August 2010 - Deepest Cheshire

We chose a lovely evening for our walk from the Ye Olde Park Gate Inn in Over Peover.

Andrew led us into the pub on arrival (that’s a wallet he’s holding), then rattled us along on a 9 km ramble through woodland and fields, past places of interest and antiquity.  As well as Richard and Jenny, on their last evening walk of the year due to nights drawing in and a darkness phobia, David turned up, taking an evening off from his massive garden and from playing the recorder that is taller than most men.  It was good to see you Dave.  Thanks for making the effort. 

Good timing really, as Dave was a stalwart member of our Alpine journeying team for a good dozen years in the ‘80s and ‘90s, a tradition which continues (literally) to this day.

Lush fields, a result of the sunshine and showers that dominate our weather at present…

…led to unexpected encounters.  Here we found a row of gravestones.

The farmers had been so busy in their fields that they’d failed to find time to block this particular route with their ubiquitous electric fences.

The sun set, and by the time we finished our stroll at 9.40, the moon was lighting our way quite nicely. 

Here’s the very pleasant route, which took a smidge over two hours.

Thanks go to Andrew for acting as MC, though I do think that his terms whereby I provide this report tonight were a little harsh!
[Will this goad him into working out how to make a comment?  I suspect not!]

Goodnight all…

Transalp: Schruns – Torbole

A few days ago I was the privileged recipient of a short message under the above heading.  It continued as follows:

26.08.2010

Thurs

1. Etappe

Schruns – St. Antönien

Route: Schruns – Tschagguns – Tilisunaalpe – Grubenpass (2232 m) – Partnunsee – St. Antönien (Night: Gasthaus Alpenrösli)

27.08.2010

Frid

2. Etappe

St. Antönien – Zernez

Route: St. Antönien – Küblis – Klosters – Laret – Davos – Sertig Dörfli – Sertigpass (2739 m) – Alpe Funtauna – Susauna – Brail – Zernez (Night: Hotel Bäer)

28.08.2010

Sat

3. Etappe

Zernez – Lü

Route: Zernez – Susch – Ardez – Scuol – San Jon – Val S-charl – S-charl – Alp Astras – Passo da Costainas (2251 m) – Lü (Night: Gasthaus Hirschen)

29.08.2010

Sun

4. Etappe

Lü – Arnoga

Route: Lü – Alp Champatsch – Pass dal Fuorn – Alp da Munt – Buffalora – Jufplaun – Lago Livigno – Passo di Fraele – Lago di San Giacomo – Trepalle – Bochetta Trelina – Arnoga (Night: Hotel Li Arnoga)

30.08.2010

Mon

5. Etappe

Arnoga – Val Rezzalo

Route: Arnoga – Passo di Verva (2301 m) – Eita – Baite dei Rossi – Passo della Forcola (2208 m) – Sondalo – Le Prese – Fumaro – Baita Rezzalo (Night: Rifugio)

31.08.2010

Tues

6. Etappe

Val Rezzalo – Ossana

Route: Val Rezzalo – Passo dell´Alpe – Passo Gavia (2618 m) – Pezzo – Case di Viso – Alta Via Camuna – Bochetta di Montozzo – Lago di Pian Palu – Pejo Terme – Ossana (Night: Hotel)

01.09.2010

Wed

7. Etappe

Ossana – Val d´Algone

Route: Ossana – Malga Fazzon – Rifugio Copai – Rifugio Orsa Bruno – Madonna di Campiglio – Lago di Val d´Agola – Passo Bregn del Ors (1836 m) – Albergo Brenta (Night: Albergo)

02.09.2010

Thurs

8. Etappe

Val d´Algone – Torbole

Route: Albergo Brenta – Stenico – Ponte Arche – Vido Lomaso – Rifugio San Pietro – Tenno – Riva – Torbole (Night: Hotel Villa Franca)

This all looks rather exciting.  An Alpine journey….

No mileage or ascent/descent data has been provided.  Perhaps just as well, though a piece of string on my map of Europe doesn’t produce anything too terrifying.  (20 cm, actually; and I hope I don’t need to use it for navigation as most of the above place names are absent from it.) But whilst my map is a flat piece of paper, it does have some rather heavily shaded areas between the two points!

A call to a physio (carefully selected via Google) to discuss the recent damage to my knee provided the necessary comfort… “sounds like a torn cartilage, but you shouldn’t make it any worse; just try to ignore the pain – enjoy your trip.”

So a bag is being packed, batteries are being charged, and the next few entries on these pages will be from ‘on the road’ which I know many people prefer.

This will be quite an adventure.  I’ve not been on such a trip for over 30 years.  I’ve just failed in a search to illustrate this posting with an image from that trip, so instead there’s a picture of the transport I’ll be using this time (rather different to what I used 30+ years ago).  I’m hoping that the owner is staying at home on this occasion!

Next Posting – Prologue 1

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Sunday 22 August 2010 – A Chance Encounter

“Hello Martin” said the voice under the baseball cap.  “I’m Jamie”.

A glamorous lady sidled up… “Who’s this?” she enquired.

”It’s the Postcard” explained Jamie, after introducing Nicky.

I’ve been following Jamie’s ‘Trekking Britain’ blog and website for some time, and he has been following these pages and even on occasion the actual footsteps described herein.  So I think we feel we know each other quite well.

It was just as well that I hadn’t loaded the ice cream for the evening’s BBQ until after our chat in Sainsbury’s frozen foods aisle.  It could have melted.

Here are Jamie and Nicky, on the top of Blencathra earlier this year – probably a more likely venue for a chance encounter than a supermarket!

It was a lovely to bump into you, I’m glad you spotted me.  We should meet up for a walk or a ride sometime – feel free to email me using the ‘Contact us’ button here, Jamie, and I’ll try to let you know of any short notice activities that may interest you both.

In the meantime, have a great honeymoon.

[I hope you don’t mind me using the above photo, especially as your baseball cap seems to have blown away!  Or was it being used as a tripod?]