Friday 29 February 2008 - Fun in Taupo

This picture shows Nallo Lady (NL) as she finds the icy water from the secret glacier of Mount Doom to cool off in, after the strong early morning sunshine.

The icy water from Mount Doom being a bit tame, NL graduated to the Huka Body Rapids. So named because you don't need a boat; they are easy enough to float over. Sadly, NL floated too fast for my camera!

Here they are again. NL is being picked up by the boat in the left hand corner. Another miracle of survival.

From the rapids we were teleported to The Craters of the Moon, though strangely they seemed only a short walk away. They are shown above, steaming. The greenery is mainly Prostrate Kanuka, which apparently grows on the moon, giving it a 'Blue Cheese' effect.

On arrival at the Mud Crater, pictured below, NL took a funny turn (it had been a stressy day). It was 3pm, the Sun was shining (rain had been forecast), we were in the Craters of the Moon, something was calling....

So, after proposing marriage (bizarre as we are already married...I think), she (NL) hijacked the nearest smart looking vehicle, bewildering the occupants, Katie and Stephen from Vancouver Island, and forced them to return her to Taupo.

Meanwhile I ambled back via Kev's Track and The Redwoods:

Back at Taupo, no NL to be seen, but I did find Taupo Bicycle Mart - 1200 second hand bikes for rent or sale. Just a few are shown here:

Tuesday to Thursday 26th - 28th February 2008 - The Tongariro Northern Circuit (or....The Mount Doom Loop!)

Tuesday
Organisation was the key this morning, so that, by 1.30pm, we were setting off for another walk in the mountains - but this time, it was in volcanoes! After storing bags and restocking in Turangi, we drove to Whakapapa (pronounced Fokker-papa) for a quick lunch before setting out.

The footpath was like a dried-out, Peak District bog path, which undulated and dipped occasionally into beech stands. Purple heather grew to either side with plenty of Eyebright flowers too.

It was a surprise to arrive at Mangatepopo hut at 4pm to find noone else there and 22 beds available! Not for long though. Whilst drinking tea on the veranda, enjoying the sunshine, a group of Navy personnel arrived, who proceded to inspect their bandaged feet and their voluminous provisions ('Rat packs' - lots of goodies, all in brown packets).

It was a convivial evening as the hut filled up to capacity and a good thing that the weather was fine and sunny, allowing everyone to use the benches outside as well as in. The hut faces west and sunset was excellent - Mount Taranaki (Egmont) in sight. Soon after, most of us turned in (it's dark now by around 8.40pm), including a family from the US who were bushed after a very long day and shared our dorm.

Wednesday

An early and cloudless start, soon after 7am. The path wove through several lava flows and there were easy sections on boards, before a steady climb up the Devil's Staircase, where we met the first of the enormous 'Tongariro Alpine Crossing' contingent. The Staircase had not been 'manicured' by the DOC (although they were just about to open a real staircase to replace the this nice path) and provided options for choosing your own gradient.

Topping out at the saddle brought us into the morning sunshine (so far, the mountain had shaded our ascent) and a view of our first summit, Mount Ngauruhoe, otherwise known as Mount Doom, a 2500 year old, near perfect cone. Stashing our rucsacs behind a chunk of lava, we started the 700m climb, before anyone else. An hour and 10 minutes later, we were on top, sharing the summit at 2287m with only our Swiss friend, who joined us on the ascent. We marvelled at the steam emitting from the rocks, and the superb panoramic views. The rocks were a deep red colour around the crater and we looked across to Mount Ruapehu, also cloud-free. We spent an hour strolling around the crater before a superb scree run (hooray for poles and gaiters) took us back to the hordes doing the crossing.

After a flat section across the South Crater, not a true crater but a drainage basin, and another short climb, we again deviated from the 'Crossing' to reach the summit of Tongariro (1967m), from which there were more fine views of both volcanoes and of Lake Taupo.

Back on the main drag, the Red Crater was also steaming nicely and the scree was making life difficult for those obviously not used to it! It ran nicely down to Emerald Lakes, three bright green, clear lakes, nestled on the slopes.

Here, our route left the Crossing, enabling lunch to be eaten entirely alone by the lower of the lakes. A fine spot to finish the previous night's leftovers - chilli mussels!

Then, it was a steep descent down a lava ridge and a weaving path through jagged lava forms created by early eruptions from the Red Crater. In contrast to the morning, we saw only one person on the path all afternoon. We reached our intended destination for the day, Oturere Hut, at 3.30pm, still such a beautiful day that we decided to continue a further 8km to the next hut.

It was a lovely walk, including a beautiful beech forest on the slopes of the mountain, to Waihohonu Hut, also nestled in beech trees. The nearby river, although not deep, provided a cooling and refreshing dip (for me). It had been a very satisfying day (27km with 1750m ascent - or 2+ COMs).

The hut's residents (an Australian hiking club) were not so chuffed to hear that there were 12 Navy personnel some way behind us, but with some organisation, beds were found for all those that required them. Another convivial evening and bed when it got dark!

Thursday

It dawned cloudy, so our decision to continue yesterday proved a good one. Leaving at 7.45am, we just remained ahead of the cloud to enjoy open scenery. A diversion to the Lower Tama Lake proved worthwhile and it nestled about 100m lower than us in a crater.

The high point was reached by a gradual climb to Tama Saddle. The other highlight was Taranaki Falls, which we passed towards the end of the morning, now meeting folk out for the day, as well as the Navy group again!

It was a pleasure to bump into Florian, who we had met at Waitomo, and had made the crossing yesterday.

Now, we are clean and relaxing at Riverstone hostel in Turangi. A Thai chicken curry is on the menu for tonight with a nicely chilled bottle of Chardonnay.

Monday 25th February 2008 - Rap, Raft 'n' Rock down Waitomo Cave

The day got more enjoyable once we had found the temporarily lost diary. Paul, our guide for the morning, drove to the location of today's adventure, where we changed into wetsuits, and very fetching purple trousers and white wellies!

The abseil was 27m into the cave (Martin, terrified, went first) and watching the shafts of sunlight on the cave walls and ferns distracted from the yawning hole below. It reminded us both of Lud's Church as we settled into a long, open roofed chamber.

The next few hours were spent walking through the river-filled cave, usually only ankle-deep or so, but in parts up to hip depth, sitting on rubber tubes and floating downstream, looking up at the cave roof, climbing through some passages, some smaller than others, and most awesome, walking in complete 'darkness' with the cave lit only by the blue rear ends of numerous glow-worms. This was particularly good where the light was reflected in the water, and after a loud bang, which causes the glow-worms to glow more brightly. The theory is that the vibration from the sound tricks them into thinking that more insects are available to eat and they glow brighter to attract them.

Finally, after exploring the cave in both directions from the entry point, we climbed out into the bright sunshine. Once back at base, hot soup went down very well (it was now nearly 2pm).

We have just returned from an excellent little walk to Aranui Cave entrance, with parrots and kingfishers seen on the return.

Tomorrow, we plan to start the Tongariro Northern Circuit, so may not post again for a few days.

Sunday 24th February 2008 - The Silver Bullet speeds on

A 450km journey that could have been through English countryside on A roads got us to our base for tonight, the Rap, Raft 'n' Rock farmhouse backpacker near Waitomo Caves by 4pm. As it turned out, we were an hour early, the Silver Bullet having excelled itself today.

The place was locked so we found the Long Black Cafe, where it amused us to see some large specimens from Bush country, disembarking from the cafe into a car registered 'EAT...'! This is Cave Country, and tomorrow we are booked on a big trip, starting with an abseil - I've never done one so will be out of my comfort zone again, but this time with a wetsuit so I'm expecting to be sitting in rather more of a puddle than when kayaking.

But for now, we will enjoy the quiet farmhouse setting and fine ingredients chosen by Sue for her birthday meal.

Today's photo is of our hot lunchtime picnic spot (it later rained, obscuring any views from the road of Ruapehu, the local volcano).

Sue: Thanks for birthday texts and cards - I had an excellent chocolate birthday cake, which was shared with the four other occupants of our backpacker hostel (its a very small one!).

Friday & Saturday 22nd & 23rd February 2008 - To the North Island!

Friday was another leisurely day, with a walk from Picton Harbour to Bob's Bay then to the harbour viewpoint, where we watched two ferries coming in along Queen Charlotte Sound. The Echo, an old sailing ship, now a cafe at the edge of the harbour, provided a nice coffee before we queued to board the Interislander ferry to Wellington.

Leaving at 1.15pm prompt, we watched the scenery from Deck 10, the sundeck, where the breeze was nicely cooling on a humid day. About half the journey is along the Sounds, with an hour in open sea, before entering Wellington harbour. The crossing was completely calm. The haze created a lovely halo around the sun.

Moana Lodge is our base for exploring a tiny portion of what Wellington has to offer and is located about 25 minutes north of the city, in Plimmerton. The Edwardian house is now (another) top class backpackers hostel and looks over the beach to Mana Island and the South Island sounds.

So, today saw us waste no time in getting into town (preferably to get a new windscreen but that failed) and our first port of call, the Botanic Gardens. Things were brightening up after rain last night, but this made the roses look particularly attractive, with pearls of water perched on their petals and reflecting the morning light.

Highlights were the rose garden and the begonia house, but the sculptures were exciting in their own way and the native bush section was filled with the buzz of cicadas. Views over the city were good.

Te Papa, the museum, occupied the next few hours. Located on the waterfront, it has its own bush exibit outside, where there is even a small suspension bridge and cave! Inside, we were shaken in a house built to demonstrate the effects of earthquakes, and saw film of volcanic eruptions here in 1995-6 - quite large! Once our cultural brains were saturated, we walked along the sea front - Wellingtonians were on the beach and in the sea enjoying the hot sunshine, taking part in the Wellington bike ride, and paddling craft that were similar to Dragon boats across the harbour in a race as part of a regatta.

It was great to retreat back to Plimmerton and have a dip in the sea after a day in the city!

Thursday 21 February 2008 - A Perfect Day Around Picton and the Queen Charlotte Walkway

Oh Joy
Today I was back in my Comfort Zone on my own two crumbling pegs.
Talking was possible instead of the hand signals of the past 3 days; I could tell the time and make jottings; photos could be taken without the risk of drowning the camera; my feet were no longer encased in a layer of sand; and I could adjust my position to relieve tired muscles!

It was a lovely clear hot (30C) sunny day. All day. After spending a relaxing morning around Picton, where today's fab cakes came from the shop which came 4th in the national cake competition, we drove 40km along the scenic 'Queen Charlotte Drive' and then down the Kenepuru Road to Te Mahia Saddle. On the way we stopped for a scenic lunch above this bay.

Here began our taste of the Queen Charlotte Walkway, a 55km walk down a long peninsula. We went about 3km up to a magnificent viewpoint at a 417 metre summit.

So good that we spent nearly an hour at the picnic bench, taking photos and chatting, in particular to a delightful Israeli couple.

Down at Mistletoe Bay we passed an idyllic campsite and Sue went swimming amongst mussels and minnows.

Then a 4km loop walk took us to the end of a small peninsula with wonderful views. Sue was put off swimming here when she looked down at the hordes of jellyfish. There were also huge starfish on the rocks just below the surface.

A repeat of the scenic drive brought us back to Tombstone Backpackers in Picton for an excellent home 'cooked' salad in this superb accommodation (lots of superlatives today!), washed down with Sauvignon Blanc from the Framingham Winery we passed a few days ago in Renwick.

A Perfect Day...

Monday - Wednesday 18-20th February 2008 - Sea Kayaking in Abel Tasman National Park

It was just like the pictures! The sea was turquoise, the sky blue, the trees green and the sand golden. We did, indeed have good weather for this trip, which saw us kayak over three days from Totaranui in the North of the park, back to Marahau, in the South, visiting golden beaches for gourmet lunches, and camping behind the beaches amongst shady trees, where, thankfully, the sandfly population was considerably smaller than that in Doubtful Sound!

Kayaking itself was reasonably hard work, although we were only paddling for around 4 hours a day. Martin, in the front, was more uncomfortable than me, in the back, due to the waves entering the kayak when we launched it from the beach, which resulted in him sitting in a wet seat for hours. This was compounded by his spray deck not fitting ideally, which let in more water!

But, for me, being on the water was lovely, particularly as swimming was never far away! We swam at our first camp, Tonga Quarry, where the water was cold and the beach shelved steeply, then at Anchorage Bay, a broad, sweep of golden beach (littered with kayaks!), where pockets of warm water made it really good, and a rock was well-placed for a bit of diving!

Twice we rafted up (parallel kayaks all holding on to each other) and got out the large orange sail, which very effectively propelled the raft through the water, without the hard work of paddling.

Tumbling fur seals, shags and Australian gannets that occupied the coast and its islands and were seen from very close quarters, although we were sharing the water with numerous kayaks, aqua taxis, yachts and larger, sight-seeing boats. Our guide, KP, who is half-Maori, in addition to being a fine chef, picked plants and berries that were edible or medicinal, and pointed out Maori Pa sites, parts of the forested coast that used to be farms, or orchards, and made other historical points.

Our companions were Robin and Mary-Jo from Idaho, Stefan from Stuttgard, Craig from Auckland (originally from SA), and for the third day, Karen and Joe, from Helensville, north of Auckland. It was a good team - thanks for the great chocolate cinnamon bananas Karen! Toasting marshmallows on sticks in the fire at our camp at Anchorage Bay and star-gazing made for a good activity on the second night.

Post-kayaking we tested the green-lipped mussels in Havelock, the 'green-lipped mussel capital of the world' - magic!

This morning, in the tranquillity of Tombstone Packpackers (yes, really - and the linen is black), we are taking life gently, and will test our legs out again later in the delightful area of Queen Charlotte Sound.

Sunday 17th February 2008 - The coastal route to Motueka

Finally, the sun re-emerges, although there were a few showers during our drive north to Nelson. Here, we tested the local coffee, then visited the austere, grey cathedral, which was surprisingly full of colourful stained glass inside.

Nelson has a reputation for blue sky and sunshine, and it didn't disappoint. We also strolled around the Queen's Gardens before continuing along the north coast, headed for the gateway to the Abel Tasman National Park in Motueka.

The afternoon was spent looking at a gallery displaying the results of glass manufacture by a Swedish couple - amazing work, but not cheap! Then, on to Rabbit Island, where we enjoyed a walk along a huge beach, accompanied by lots of locals enjoying the sunny weather at the weekend, and black oystercatchers, getting their feet wet in the surf.

Then, a bit more culture, in the form of the art and sculpture of the Bronte Gallery - again, rather expensive, but also this time, not to our taste. However, we enjoyed a long chat with the 'artist in residence' and bought a pot of organic manuka honey!

Tea was provided by the Shed One Cafe at Mapua wharf, where kids were throwing themselves off the jetty into the blue water and ice creams were being consumed in the sun.

It was then only a stones throw to Motueka, where we have a nice room in a Victorian house, complete with stone fireplace.

Dinner in the garden, in our shorts, with a cold beer - most welcome. The cat enjoyed our smoked fish as much as we did!

Tomorrow, we leave early to go sea kayaking north of here in the Abel Tasman park. We return on Wednesday evening then have a drive to Picton for the night. So, you may not hear from us for a few days. Bye for now.... At least the forecast is good this time and the azure sea and white beaches beckon!

Saturday 16th February 2008 - Marlborough Country

For anyone worrying about anything we said yesterday:

1. We are optimists. The pessimist report was just a joke.
2. We reported on walking through glades of purple mushrooms and honey trees.... We can now confirm we were not on the sort of trip that we thought we might be - the purple mushrooms are, in fact the King's Pouch variety. Our map informs us that 'Honeydew is the waste product of the beech scale insect, which lives under the bark of beech trees. The insects sucks sap from the tree to obtain protein, and excretes sugar-rich waste through its anal filament. The long thread with a honeydew droplet on the end hangs from a black sooty fungus attached to the tree bark. It's a rich energy source for native species of insects, lizards and nectar-feeding birds such as bellbirds, but outside the Wasp Control Areas the sweet smelling (like honey) resource is now dominated by wasps which have been introduced by man.' We were in a Wasp Control Area but still saw lots of wasps.

Today we enjoyed some fine wine and an excellent lunch at Wairau River winery in Renwick.

The remainder of the afternoon was spent planning our 'adventures' in the North Island and generally relaxing. The hostel was one of the best yet.

Thursday & Friday 14th & 15th February 2008 - SNOW on the Angelus Hut loop

Day 1

The Optimistic Report

A fine morning saw us quickly out of the local DOC office, armed with hut passes and a map for a two day adventure in Nelson Lakes National Park.

We strolled off from the Mt Robert car park (880m) at 9am and headed up a lovely zigzag path in and out of gorgeous birch forest, with Tomtits and Bellbirds singing merrily as we rose gently up the first 400m to Bushedge Shelter - a bit like a stalkers' lunch hut. Still enjoyed fine panoramic views as the mist came and went.

We soon passed Relax Shelter (1425m), also well named, where we relaxed with some chocolate for a while. Beyond this spot we gained the broad crest of 'Bob' ridge and followed the well-marked path as it continued over the crinkles of this long ridge. A heavily laden couple with 9 days food overhauled us here, but we passed with when an extra layer was needed and next saw them at the end of the walk. Meanwhile we skipped along, enjoying occasional glimpses of views, as the ridge became narrower and rockier. It was similar to the Glyders but sharper and three times as long. We spend quite some time around the 1800m mark before descending joyfully to the magnificently placed Angelus Hut besuide Lake Angelus. It was 2pm, time for a late lunch and a debate as to whether to continue. The rain got heavier (we actually got better views then) and the company appeared good, especially the wood-burning stove which was most comforting, so we stayed, along with Shannon and Scott, the heavily laden pair from Alaska (Scott has a magnificent red beard, perhaps he is training to be John Muir II), a family with their delighful 1-year old, Ellie, some Australians amongst whom Bruce was very knowledgable and informative, some Californians living over here and a couple of guys from Wellington.

The convivial afternoon was followed by a gourmet supper of seafood soup, pasta in cheese sauce with tuna and butterscotch whip. The chatty evening ended around 9pm when it got dark, rain still lashing the roof.

The Pessimistic Report

Woke to the din of Jim's ipod and endured the cyclists chatter over a toast breakfast. Went up to Mt Robert car park and set off laden with everything for a night out. Trudged up a steep path to a sparse shelter, sweating profusely, where it started to rain as we entered the cloud. Very few views after this. Robert Ridge got sharper and breezier and several rock fields slowed us. We didn't reach the summit as it was off the marked route that we thought we'd better stick to in the very low visibility. Met a few miserable people who were having trouble with the rock fields. Ate chocolate to keep us going. Even so, folk carrying nine days food passed us.

Eventually we (Martin) limped down to a mountain hut, just visible through the rain and cloud. The first mug of tea was welcome, but the taps didn't work because of the drought, so we had to go outside (and get soaked) to get water. The toilet was 100m away across a bog. Inside the hut was a man with a long beard and a jolly smile, a 'know it all' Bruce, and a family with a screaming one-year old. The afternoon passed, then we fed on a selection of dried foods and a tin of tuna. After that it got dark so we went to bed, trying to avoid the leaky window that had dripped onto a sleeping bag. Sleep was initially difficult due to sharing a room with a teething child.

Nallo Lady's Report on Day 2

Woke to snow lying just above the hut and a view of the lakes. Soon, fast flurries of snow were falling outside, making the view of the vegetable sheep diminish. Inside, it was cosy and warm, so despite breakfast around 7.30am, we didn't leave until 9am (after discussions with the warden who does a tour of huts on a 10-day circuit, repeated every 14 days!).

Initially, a steep descent, amidst snow flurries, which soon turned to light rain. The descent was superb though, with a mixture of terrain, from beech forest, to grassy meadows, with the sound of rushing water for the most part, and, as usual, profusions of mosses, lichens and ferns. Had to cross several swollen streams, but luckily didn't get too wet.

Today was also significant for spotting purple mushrooms (and many, ordinary types), and black, honey-scented trees with wasps over their trunks (very weird - we need to ask about these in the DOC office tomorrow) - Paul Filby had the same observations here too!

Lunch was in Coldwater Hut, with a view down Lake Rotoiti, on our own, except for a few sandflies.

If anything, the rain got heavier during the afternoon, coming in heavy bursts, with not much respite between each. When the clouds did break occasionally, snow lay on the ridge just above the lake.

Reached the car after a 300m ascent around 5ish, dripping, and gave a couple of even wetter girls a lift back to the village.

Pam and Paul - Nelson Lakes would benefit from exploration over a week or so.

Wednesday 13th February 2008 - Franz Joseph to St Arnaud (Nelson Lakes)

It being the 13th, things were bound not to go completely smoothly! We had a false start out of Franz Joseph, forgetting to fill up and losing our early start, then to be halted by road resealing and a further 10-minute wait! Later in the day, the silver bullet suffers a chipped windscreen (there's our $200 excess gone) and we take a wrong turning, although the dead end introduced us to the beauty of Lake Rotorua!

Anyway, for a day of driving, it was remarkably scenic. Coffee and banana cake was the only normal part of the Bushman Centre (which claims the largest sandfly in the world), which sells possum pie (yes, it really contains possum, a pest here) and all notices display a peculiar sense of humour!

This section was also memorable for its combined road and railway bridges. Two of these were encountered and as the same single track is used, it was a good thing there were no trains!

Today's picnic was enjoyed in the sun (it came out, especially for the occasion) overlooking Pancake rocks - layers of sandstone and mudstone that the sea has eroded, which form blowholes through which the sea emerges at speed. Despite the calm sea and half full tide, it was still pretty good.

A weka (bird the size of a chicken that kills rats but can't fly) teetered around the edge of the path here, diving for cover when heavy footsteps came past. We've also seen pukeko at the side of the road today.

The coastal scenery was excellent until around mid-afternoon, then our path turned inland, following the Buller river, with some single track road and more narrow bridges.

St Arnaud was a welcome destination around 5.30pm after 500km.

It is the gateway to Nelson Lakes, where John Manning's article from December 2006 TGO magazine has inspired us to visit. So, we'll spend tomorrow night in a hut, somewhere out there, weather permitting, as some 'weather' is due in.

Tuesday 12th February 2008 - Alex Knob Track

After a dark and silent night the heavy curtains in our large double room at Glow Worm Cottages were flung back to reveal a gloriously deep blue sky. Franz Joseph sparkled in the morning sunshine as we made our way to the start of today's walk. Sue had wanted to walk on Franz Joseph glacier but yesterday's bad weather prevented any glacier walks so today's quota - two companies have a monopoly, 30 clients each - was full by the time we arrived. The walk to Alex Knob is mainly through rain forest.

It starts on a DOC motorway to Lake Wombat - a pretty little place where we have our first encounter with Theresa, who is working at the local YHA, and Mr Copeland (Will) who is here for the cricket. Wrong island!? Then we leave the manicured path for the 1000m ascent up to Alex Knob. Melodious bellbirds drown the sound of helicopters as we pass over a carpet of red Rata tree petals. We pass a couple of chaps maintaining the path - basically cutting the invading grass from around the blocks of stone that form the basis of the path. This is acceptable, if not entirely necessary, maintenance.

Eventually, after two good lookout points - Rata and Christmas lookouts, we clear the tree canopy and rise a further couple of hundred metres to the summit of the Knob. Sadly we were enveloped in mist. As Theresa arrived, bringing up the rear, the mist magically cleared and we enjoyed fine lunchtime views of the upper reaches of the glacier during a cloud inversion which lasted about 30 minutes before the expansive view was again obliterated by the rising mist.

The gentle descent (we eschewed the second summit - Louisa Peak) took about 3 hours. After dropping Theresa and Will off at the YHA we drove up to the snout of the Franz Joseph Glacier and snapped away at the end of the wide path full of wide tourists.

Tonight we enjoyed a luxurious meal at the Landing Bar, where many TV screens (thankfully silent) depicted England's fine cricketers enduring a sunny day on the North Island. All the watchers seemed to be English - others showed little interest...

Monday 11th February 2008 - The long road to Franz Joseph Glacier

A partially cloudy morning again scuppered any attempt to sky dive, so we left Wanaka with grey skies ahead. Although the driving time was a little over 4 hours to go north to Haast Pass, then to go up the west coast to Franz Joseph, we managed to make it last the whole day!

During the morning, we stopped for coffees and carrot cake and then to view Fantail and Thunder Creek falls, with a decent amount of water following yesterday and last night's rain.

Lunch was a delight. There was just one other couple on Haast beach, surrounded by a flock of seagulls, but it wasn't difficult to find a space to eat salami rolls accompanied by the crashing of Tasman sea waves. Despite the greyness, it was still quite bright and warm. The sandflies were just about kept at bay by the breeze.

Wanaka was nice as there was a complete lack of the beasties, but they're back now we're further west.

The other delight of the day was a short walk to Monro Beach, through the rain forest. Tree ferns up to 20 feet high were everywhere and there was the usual verdant green of lichens, ferns and leaves. Insects hummed and the path followed a small brown stream down to the beach.

Sadly, there were no fiordland crested penguins to be seen, but it was a fine beach, rocky at either end, with the high tide waves crashing in over the pebbles. We sat for a while, until the sandflies found us (again!) then returned to continue the journey.

Although its not raining just now, the cloud is still well down, but the forecast for tomorrow is for fine weather.

And so to Alex Knob...

Sunday 10th February 2008 - Diamond Lake and Rocky Mountain

High clouds delay Sue's sky dive attempt, so we head off in a dilemma as to whether to climb Roy's Peak (1578m) or Rocky Mountain (777m). The heading gives the answer. At the car park we spot a Ramblers Worldwide coach, so on our way up to Diamond Lake we meet English folk in various states of decrepidness. The lake is more of a teardrop shape, appropriate today as the rain starts to fall and Roy's Peak disappears in cloud. Good decision. It's a pleasant path (if these 'wheelchair accessible' Department of Conservation (DOC) paths can be so described) that leads up past wild mignonette or similar, where Bellbirds warble melodiously, up above the lake to a fine viewpoint, and on up a more tenuous (the DOC must have got tired) path to the rocky summit. This sported fine views of Lake Wanaka and beyond, despite the light rain.

The rain eased on descent, so we lunched on the viewing platform high above Diamond Lake, after chatting to a couple from Crieff. Some locals stroll past, commenting, "that's just like the platform that fell in last year" (its a 150m drop!). We shuffle uneasily.

Then on back down to the car and off for a coffee at the nearby motor museum for Sue, whilst I whizz round the random collection of old vehicles. Here is one of their star exhibits:

Quiz: Can you identify any of these?

Then, on to Puzzle World - a much more glossy attraction, with a difficult maze and a 'World of Illusions'.


Mirrors and other effects are similar to those encountered at various places in the UK, so we enjoy a coffee and adjourn for a stroll up Mount Iron, which stands a lofty 250m above Wanaka.

Fine views abound, but all too soon its time to descend, past what appear to be thyme trees, to the sanctuary of the supermarket as the rain starts again. So, our bacon and avocado salad (delicious with a bottle of Merlot, which followed a thirst-quenching honey-spiced ale) was sadly consumed indoors.

Messages:

Night Bird: my blog entries are mostly dictated to Nallo Lady, who adds her own nuances. She added the bit about Wanaka at the end of my last posting... And as for Alex's Knob? Well! That'll really get you going!

Notchy: we hope you are memorising world and UK news to relate to us in due course. The 'Fiordland Focus' doesn't stretch much beyond its 'New Upgrade for Lion's Peak Toilets' headline!

WD: ditto re outdoors blogosphere - our internet time is limited to short bursts of updating the blog, so we are out of touch. Did notice your petition though - best of luck with that. We can't even download the TGOC newsletter, which is a bit frustrating!

Mothers: hello, we are having a great time...

Former colleagues: hello, we know you are out there, but probably too frantic with work to even read the blog, let alone leave a comment!