Thursday 21 February 2008 - A Perfect Day Around Picton and the Queen Charlotte Walkway

Oh Joy
Today I was back in my Comfort Zone on my own two crumbling pegs.
Talking was possible instead of the hand signals of the past 3 days; I could tell the time and make jottings; photos could be taken without the risk of drowning the camera; my feet were no longer encased in a layer of sand; and I could adjust my position to relieve tired muscles!

It was a lovely clear hot (30C) sunny day. All day. After spending a relaxing morning around Picton, where today's fab cakes came from the shop which came 4th in the national cake competition, we drove 40km along the scenic 'Queen Charlotte Drive' and then down the Kenepuru Road to Te Mahia Saddle. On the way we stopped for a scenic lunch above this bay.

Here began our taste of the Queen Charlotte Walkway, a 55km walk down a long peninsula. We went about 3km up to a magnificent viewpoint at a 417 metre summit.

So good that we spent nearly an hour at the picnic bench, taking photos and chatting, in particular to a delightful Israeli couple.

Down at Mistletoe Bay we passed an idyllic campsite and Sue went swimming amongst mussels and minnows.

Then a 4km loop walk took us to the end of a small peninsula with wonderful views. Sue was put off swimming here when she looked down at the hordes of jellyfish. There were also huge starfish on the rocks just below the surface.

A repeat of the scenic drive brought us back to Tombstone Backpackers in Picton for an excellent home 'cooked' salad in this superb accommodation (lots of superlatives today!), washed down with Sauvignon Blanc from the Framingham Winery we passed a few days ago in Renwick.

A Perfect Day...

Monday - Wednesday 18-20th February 2008 - Sea Kayaking in Abel Tasman National Park

It was just like the pictures! The sea was turquoise, the sky blue, the trees green and the sand golden. We did, indeed have good weather for this trip, which saw us kayak over three days from Totaranui in the North of the park, back to Marahau, in the South, visiting golden beaches for gourmet lunches, and camping behind the beaches amongst shady trees, where, thankfully, the sandfly population was considerably smaller than that in Doubtful Sound!

Kayaking itself was reasonably hard work, although we were only paddling for around 4 hours a day. Martin, in the front, was more uncomfortable than me, in the back, due to the waves entering the kayak when we launched it from the beach, which resulted in him sitting in a wet seat for hours. This was compounded by his spray deck not fitting ideally, which let in more water!

But, for me, being on the water was lovely, particularly as swimming was never far away! We swam at our first camp, Tonga Quarry, where the water was cold and the beach shelved steeply, then at Anchorage Bay, a broad, sweep of golden beach (littered with kayaks!), where pockets of warm water made it really good, and a rock was well-placed for a bit of diving!

Twice we rafted up (parallel kayaks all holding on to each other) and got out the large orange sail, which very effectively propelled the raft through the water, without the hard work of paddling.

Tumbling fur seals, shags and Australian gannets that occupied the coast and its islands and were seen from very close quarters, although we were sharing the water with numerous kayaks, aqua taxis, yachts and larger, sight-seeing boats. Our guide, KP, who is half-Maori, in addition to being a fine chef, picked plants and berries that were edible or medicinal, and pointed out Maori Pa sites, parts of the forested coast that used to be farms, or orchards, and made other historical points.

Our companions were Robin and Mary-Jo from Idaho, Stefan from Stuttgard, Craig from Auckland (originally from SA), and for the third day, Karen and Joe, from Helensville, north of Auckland. It was a good team - thanks for the great chocolate cinnamon bananas Karen! Toasting marshmallows on sticks in the fire at our camp at Anchorage Bay and star-gazing made for a good activity on the second night.

Post-kayaking we tested the green-lipped mussels in Havelock, the 'green-lipped mussel capital of the world' - magic!

This morning, in the tranquillity of Tombstone Packpackers (yes, really - and the linen is black), we are taking life gently, and will test our legs out again later in the delightful area of Queen Charlotte Sound.

Sunday 17th February 2008 - The coastal route to Motueka

Finally, the sun re-emerges, although there were a few showers during our drive north to Nelson. Here, we tested the local coffee, then visited the austere, grey cathedral, which was surprisingly full of colourful stained glass inside.

Nelson has a reputation for blue sky and sunshine, and it didn't disappoint. We also strolled around the Queen's Gardens before continuing along the north coast, headed for the gateway to the Abel Tasman National Park in Motueka.

The afternoon was spent looking at a gallery displaying the results of glass manufacture by a Swedish couple - amazing work, but not cheap! Then, on to Rabbit Island, where we enjoyed a walk along a huge beach, accompanied by lots of locals enjoying the sunny weather at the weekend, and black oystercatchers, getting their feet wet in the surf.

Then, a bit more culture, in the form of the art and sculpture of the Bronte Gallery - again, rather expensive, but also this time, not to our taste. However, we enjoyed a long chat with the 'artist in residence' and bought a pot of organic manuka honey!

Tea was provided by the Shed One Cafe at Mapua wharf, where kids were throwing themselves off the jetty into the blue water and ice creams were being consumed in the sun.

It was then only a stones throw to Motueka, where we have a nice room in a Victorian house, complete with stone fireplace.

Dinner in the garden, in our shorts, with a cold beer - most welcome. The cat enjoyed our smoked fish as much as we did!

Tomorrow, we leave early to go sea kayaking north of here in the Abel Tasman park. We return on Wednesday evening then have a drive to Picton for the night. So, you may not hear from us for a few days. Bye for now.... At least the forecast is good this time and the azure sea and white beaches beckon!

Saturday 16th February 2008 - Marlborough Country

For anyone worrying about anything we said yesterday:

1. We are optimists. The pessimist report was just a joke.
2. We reported on walking through glades of purple mushrooms and honey trees.... We can now confirm we were not on the sort of trip that we thought we might be - the purple mushrooms are, in fact the King's Pouch variety. Our map informs us that 'Honeydew is the waste product of the beech scale insect, which lives under the bark of beech trees. The insects sucks sap from the tree to obtain protein, and excretes sugar-rich waste through its anal filament. The long thread with a honeydew droplet on the end hangs from a black sooty fungus attached to the tree bark. It's a rich energy source for native species of insects, lizards and nectar-feeding birds such as bellbirds, but outside the Wasp Control Areas the sweet smelling (like honey) resource is now dominated by wasps which have been introduced by man.' We were in a Wasp Control Area but still saw lots of wasps.

Today we enjoyed some fine wine and an excellent lunch at Wairau River winery in Renwick.

The remainder of the afternoon was spent planning our 'adventures' in the North Island and generally relaxing. The hostel was one of the best yet.

Thursday & Friday 14th & 15th February 2008 - SNOW on the Angelus Hut loop

Day 1

The Optimistic Report

A fine morning saw us quickly out of the local DOC office, armed with hut passes and a map for a two day adventure in Nelson Lakes National Park.

We strolled off from the Mt Robert car park (880m) at 9am and headed up a lovely zigzag path in and out of gorgeous birch forest, with Tomtits and Bellbirds singing merrily as we rose gently up the first 400m to Bushedge Shelter - a bit like a stalkers' lunch hut. Still enjoyed fine panoramic views as the mist came and went.

We soon passed Relax Shelter (1425m), also well named, where we relaxed with some chocolate for a while. Beyond this spot we gained the broad crest of 'Bob' ridge and followed the well-marked path as it continued over the crinkles of this long ridge. A heavily laden couple with 9 days food overhauled us here, but we passed with when an extra layer was needed and next saw them at the end of the walk. Meanwhile we skipped along, enjoying occasional glimpses of views, as the ridge became narrower and rockier. It was similar to the Glyders but sharper and three times as long. We spend quite some time around the 1800m mark before descending joyfully to the magnificently placed Angelus Hut besuide Lake Angelus. It was 2pm, time for a late lunch and a debate as to whether to continue. The rain got heavier (we actually got better views then) and the company appeared good, especially the wood-burning stove which was most comforting, so we stayed, along with Shannon and Scott, the heavily laden pair from Alaska (Scott has a magnificent red beard, perhaps he is training to be John Muir II), a family with their delighful 1-year old, Ellie, some Australians amongst whom Bruce was very knowledgable and informative, some Californians living over here and a couple of guys from Wellington.

The convivial afternoon was followed by a gourmet supper of seafood soup, pasta in cheese sauce with tuna and butterscotch whip. The chatty evening ended around 9pm when it got dark, rain still lashing the roof.

The Pessimistic Report

Woke to the din of Jim's ipod and endured the cyclists chatter over a toast breakfast. Went up to Mt Robert car park and set off laden with everything for a night out. Trudged up a steep path to a sparse shelter, sweating profusely, where it started to rain as we entered the cloud. Very few views after this. Robert Ridge got sharper and breezier and several rock fields slowed us. We didn't reach the summit as it was off the marked route that we thought we'd better stick to in the very low visibility. Met a few miserable people who were having trouble with the rock fields. Ate chocolate to keep us going. Even so, folk carrying nine days food passed us.

Eventually we (Martin) limped down to a mountain hut, just visible through the rain and cloud. The first mug of tea was welcome, but the taps didn't work because of the drought, so we had to go outside (and get soaked) to get water. The toilet was 100m away across a bog. Inside the hut was a man with a long beard and a jolly smile, a 'know it all' Bruce, and a family with a screaming one-year old. The afternoon passed, then we fed on a selection of dried foods and a tin of tuna. After that it got dark so we went to bed, trying to avoid the leaky window that had dripped onto a sleeping bag. Sleep was initially difficult due to sharing a room with a teething child.

Nallo Lady's Report on Day 2

Woke to snow lying just above the hut and a view of the lakes. Soon, fast flurries of snow were falling outside, making the view of the vegetable sheep diminish. Inside, it was cosy and warm, so despite breakfast around 7.30am, we didn't leave until 9am (after discussions with the warden who does a tour of huts on a 10-day circuit, repeated every 14 days!).

Initially, a steep descent, amidst snow flurries, which soon turned to light rain. The descent was superb though, with a mixture of terrain, from beech forest, to grassy meadows, with the sound of rushing water for the most part, and, as usual, profusions of mosses, lichens and ferns. Had to cross several swollen streams, but luckily didn't get too wet.

Today was also significant for spotting purple mushrooms (and many, ordinary types), and black, honey-scented trees with wasps over their trunks (very weird - we need to ask about these in the DOC office tomorrow) - Paul Filby had the same observations here too!

Lunch was in Coldwater Hut, with a view down Lake Rotoiti, on our own, except for a few sandflies.

If anything, the rain got heavier during the afternoon, coming in heavy bursts, with not much respite between each. When the clouds did break occasionally, snow lay on the ridge just above the lake.

Reached the car after a 300m ascent around 5ish, dripping, and gave a couple of even wetter girls a lift back to the village.

Pam and Paul - Nelson Lakes would benefit from exploration over a week or so.

Wednesday 13th February 2008 - Franz Joseph to St Arnaud (Nelson Lakes)

It being the 13th, things were bound not to go completely smoothly! We had a false start out of Franz Joseph, forgetting to fill up and losing our early start, then to be halted by road resealing and a further 10-minute wait! Later in the day, the silver bullet suffers a chipped windscreen (there's our $200 excess gone) and we take a wrong turning, although the dead end introduced us to the beauty of Lake Rotorua!

Anyway, for a day of driving, it was remarkably scenic. Coffee and banana cake was the only normal part of the Bushman Centre (which claims the largest sandfly in the world), which sells possum pie (yes, it really contains possum, a pest here) and all notices display a peculiar sense of humour!

This section was also memorable for its combined road and railway bridges. Two of these were encountered and as the same single track is used, it was a good thing there were no trains!

Today's picnic was enjoyed in the sun (it came out, especially for the occasion) overlooking Pancake rocks - layers of sandstone and mudstone that the sea has eroded, which form blowholes through which the sea emerges at speed. Despite the calm sea and half full tide, it was still pretty good.

A weka (bird the size of a chicken that kills rats but can't fly) teetered around the edge of the path here, diving for cover when heavy footsteps came past. We've also seen pukeko at the side of the road today.

The coastal scenery was excellent until around mid-afternoon, then our path turned inland, following the Buller river, with some single track road and more narrow bridges.

St Arnaud was a welcome destination around 5.30pm after 500km.

It is the gateway to Nelson Lakes, where John Manning's article from December 2006 TGO magazine has inspired us to visit. So, we'll spend tomorrow night in a hut, somewhere out there, weather permitting, as some 'weather' is due in.

Tuesday 12th February 2008 - Alex Knob Track

After a dark and silent night the heavy curtains in our large double room at Glow Worm Cottages were flung back to reveal a gloriously deep blue sky. Franz Joseph sparkled in the morning sunshine as we made our way to the start of today's walk. Sue had wanted to walk on Franz Joseph glacier but yesterday's bad weather prevented any glacier walks so today's quota - two companies have a monopoly, 30 clients each - was full by the time we arrived. The walk to Alex Knob is mainly through rain forest.

It starts on a DOC motorway to Lake Wombat - a pretty little place where we have our first encounter with Theresa, who is working at the local YHA, and Mr Copeland (Will) who is here for the cricket. Wrong island!? Then we leave the manicured path for the 1000m ascent up to Alex Knob. Melodious bellbirds drown the sound of helicopters as we pass over a carpet of red Rata tree petals. We pass a couple of chaps maintaining the path - basically cutting the invading grass from around the blocks of stone that form the basis of the path. This is acceptable, if not entirely necessary, maintenance.

Eventually, after two good lookout points - Rata and Christmas lookouts, we clear the tree canopy and rise a further couple of hundred metres to the summit of the Knob. Sadly we were enveloped in mist. As Theresa arrived, bringing up the rear, the mist magically cleared and we enjoyed fine lunchtime views of the upper reaches of the glacier during a cloud inversion which lasted about 30 minutes before the expansive view was again obliterated by the rising mist.

The gentle descent (we eschewed the second summit - Louisa Peak) took about 3 hours. After dropping Theresa and Will off at the YHA we drove up to the snout of the Franz Joseph Glacier and snapped away at the end of the wide path full of wide tourists.

Tonight we enjoyed a luxurious meal at the Landing Bar, where many TV screens (thankfully silent) depicted England's fine cricketers enduring a sunny day on the North Island. All the watchers seemed to be English - others showed little interest...

Monday 11th February 2008 - The long road to Franz Joseph Glacier

A partially cloudy morning again scuppered any attempt to sky dive, so we left Wanaka with grey skies ahead. Although the driving time was a little over 4 hours to go north to Haast Pass, then to go up the west coast to Franz Joseph, we managed to make it last the whole day!

During the morning, we stopped for coffees and carrot cake and then to view Fantail and Thunder Creek falls, with a decent amount of water following yesterday and last night's rain.

Lunch was a delight. There was just one other couple on Haast beach, surrounded by a flock of seagulls, but it wasn't difficult to find a space to eat salami rolls accompanied by the crashing of Tasman sea waves. Despite the greyness, it was still quite bright and warm. The sandflies were just about kept at bay by the breeze.

Wanaka was nice as there was a complete lack of the beasties, but they're back now we're further west.

The other delight of the day was a short walk to Monro Beach, through the rain forest. Tree ferns up to 20 feet high were everywhere and there was the usual verdant green of lichens, ferns and leaves. Insects hummed and the path followed a small brown stream down to the beach.

Sadly, there were no fiordland crested penguins to be seen, but it was a fine beach, rocky at either end, with the high tide waves crashing in over the pebbles. We sat for a while, until the sandflies found us (again!) then returned to continue the journey.

Although its not raining just now, the cloud is still well down, but the forecast for tomorrow is for fine weather.

And so to Alex Knob...

Sunday 10th February 2008 - Diamond Lake and Rocky Mountain

High clouds delay Sue's sky dive attempt, so we head off in a dilemma as to whether to climb Roy's Peak (1578m) or Rocky Mountain (777m). The heading gives the answer. At the car park we spot a Ramblers Worldwide coach, so on our way up to Diamond Lake we meet English folk in various states of decrepidness. The lake is more of a teardrop shape, appropriate today as the rain starts to fall and Roy's Peak disappears in cloud. Good decision. It's a pleasant path (if these 'wheelchair accessible' Department of Conservation (DOC) paths can be so described) that leads up past wild mignonette or similar, where Bellbirds warble melodiously, up above the lake to a fine viewpoint, and on up a more tenuous (the DOC must have got tired) path to the rocky summit. This sported fine views of Lake Wanaka and beyond, despite the light rain.

The rain eased on descent, so we lunched on the viewing platform high above Diamond Lake, after chatting to a couple from Crieff. Some locals stroll past, commenting, "that's just like the platform that fell in last year" (its a 150m drop!). We shuffle uneasily.

Then on back down to the car and off for a coffee at the nearby motor museum for Sue, whilst I whizz round the random collection of old vehicles. Here is one of their star exhibits:

Quiz: Can you identify any of these?

Then, on to Puzzle World - a much more glossy attraction, with a difficult maze and a 'World of Illusions'.


Mirrors and other effects are similar to those encountered at various places in the UK, so we enjoy a coffee and adjourn for a stroll up Mount Iron, which stands a lofty 250m above Wanaka.

Fine views abound, but all too soon its time to descend, past what appear to be thyme trees, to the sanctuary of the supermarket as the rain starts again. So, our bacon and avocado salad (delicious with a bottle of Merlot, which followed a thirst-quenching honey-spiced ale) was sadly consumed indoors.

Messages:

Night Bird: my blog entries are mostly dictated to Nallo Lady, who adds her own nuances. She added the bit about Wanaka at the end of my last posting... And as for Alex's Knob? Well! That'll really get you going!

Notchy: we hope you are memorising world and UK news to relate to us in due course. The 'Fiordland Focus' doesn't stretch much beyond its 'New Upgrade for Lion's Peak Toilets' headline!

WD: ditto re outdoors blogosphere - our internet time is limited to short bursts of updating the blog, so we are out of touch. Did notice your petition though - best of luck with that. We can't even download the TGOC newsletter, which is a bit frustrating!

Mothers: hello, we are having a great time...

Former colleagues: hello, we know you are out there, but probably too frantic with work to even read the blog, let alone leave a comment!

Saturday 9th February 2008 - Rob Roy Glacier walk

Yesterday, after visiting the Nature Reserve in Te Anau, which looks after injured birds, such as the rare Takahe, we drove north in the Silver Bullet (pictured above) to Wanaka, to the aptly named Mountainview Backpackers. At Kingston, at the south end of Lake Wakatipu, we picnicked on the shore, with the whistle and hiss of the Kingston Flyer, a black steam engine, just ready to depart.

In Wanaka, enjoyed more warm weather in the garden till about 9.30pm.

Today, we drove to Mount Aspiring National Park along 20km of unsealed road, with my legs wobbling as the car juddered over the uneven surface. The Rob Roy Glacier was the object of today's walk, along the track towards the Aspiring Hut, then across a suspension bridge and up a side valley, through fine birch woodland with splendid ferns. At first the path was great, then we came across a notice suggesting that the path had been 'upgraded'. Mmmmm. In actual fact, the Department of Conservation, had, in my view, been the Dept of Destruction, in producing a motorway through the native bush, completely ruining a lovely woodland walk. I steamed up it, to escape its clutches above the treeline, where views of the glacier took my mind off the dreadful path. Actually, the glacier hung just above us, with a number of waterfalls below. The Hawkweed (very similar to a profusion of dandelions) created a carpet of yellow.

I prepared an a la carte lunch whilst waiting for Martin, who arrived in time to spend a happy hour admiring the views towards Rob Roy Glacier and elsewhere:

At last, a Kea! These parrots are green, with red under their wings and have very sharp bills. This one was intent on investigating the contents of two rucsacs that had been abandoned near us! They have been known to pick out the rubber of car windscreens around Mount Cook - when the driver sets off, the windscreen falls in!!!

Nice lunch spot, then we followed a very narrow path up the hillside. Martin turned back but I continued, over a few precipitous areas, until the path ran out, with an excellent view of the upper part of the glacier and a lovely waterfall.

It was my turn to drive back along the horrible dirt road, but speed did the trick! The car was happier over the surface and Martin even managed to sleep, woken by a jolt as I hit a hole in the road - oops! Today we learnt that 'cattle grids' are 'cattle stops'.

The evening has been spent outside, over a dinner of garlic mussel salad washed down with a bottle of Marlborough Chardonnay, hence the rambling. The overcast sky has cleared this evening - blue skies prevail.

Will tomorrow be 'Sky Dive Day'?

Thursday 7th February 2008 - Sea kayaking on Doubtful Sound

5.45am alarm, 6.20 pick up by Blake from Fiordland Wilderness Experiences for a 20km drive to Pearl Harbour at Manapouri - fantastic bright red sunrise over the mountains to the east. Seven of us on the day trip. Ferry across Lake Manapouri takes another hour, then it's a 45 minute drive over Wilmot Pass, the most expensive road in New Zealand, despite it being unsurfaced ($6 per inch!!!). It was built to bring in turbines for the massive hydro scheme here. Finally, we are in Deep Cove in Doubtful Sound and soon after 10am we set off in four double kayaks to explore the inner reaches of the Sound. Actually, its not a Sound at all. Its a fiord, the difference being that sounds are created by the sea flooding a river valley and a fiord by the sea flooding a valley created by glaciation. It's definitely the latter here.

On the way to our lunch beach opposite Elizabeth Island, we spot some of the pod of Doubtful dolphins, and Blake spots a penguin, one of those rare ones. We only hear its scream. The high green walls of the fiord tower above us, with signs of tree avalanches as everywhere in the fiords. Splashes of water douse the cliffs, much less than normal due to the dry weather. Sandflies are a feature of the launch and lunch spots but thanks to Daphne's advice on the use of Ultraguard (DEET), they rarely land on us. Lunch was on a small shingle beach, which became smaller as the tide came in! Just about room for us all and the stove for a brew. A river flowed in nearby - no need to treat the water here, as no humans around to cause giardia.


After half an hour, we're back on board to a sea with greater swell and an escape from the clouds of sandflies. Still many kilometres from the sea, the swell, together with the mushroom clouds, indicates bad weather on the way but we return safely, with winds only just strong enough to enable us to sail. Sailing is done with two kayaks side by side, front paddlers holding the bottom corners of the sail and keeping the boats together, those in the rear holding the rigging high aloft, fastened to their paddles. When the wind dies, one of the front paddlers gets covered in a wet sail!

On return, Deep Cove is full of Real Journey's day trippers but they are gone by the time we have packed our gear and set off back up the steep road. En route, we visit we visit the hydro tunnels, two 10m wide tunnels and stop for the magnificent view of Doubtful Sound from the Wilmot Pass road.

Back at base soon after 6pm, gave us plenty of time for a welcome beer on the veranda of the Redcliffe Cafe, and good meal at La Toscana. Now to Wanaka.....

Ken - Good luck in the Canadian Ski Marathon. May the wax be with you!

Tuesday 5 and Wednesday 6 February 2008 - A night on Milford Sound

Our evening at Kinloch Lodge was spent relaxing over a very nice meal - thanks Dot!

Tuesday was mostly spent in the car on the extremely scenic drive between Kinloch, an hour north of Queenstown, and Milford Sound, via Te Anau, which proved to be a nice lunchspot for a sandwich overlooking Lake Te Anau. As we arrived at Milford in the late afternoon, so the crowds were leaving. We boarded the Milford Wanderer (along with a Kontiki coachload of young people!) and headed out on the Sound under skies that were blue with a layer of high cloud, gazing at Mitre Peak at 1600m that rises straight out of the blue water.

Unfortunately for us, the waterfalls weren't at their best, since, instead of having the usual 2 out of every 3 days with rain, they had experienced only one day's rain in the last 14! At Anita Bay, on the edge of the Tasman sea, the yacht anchored and some of us went sea kayaking whilst others went out on a launch (this included Martin who saw a rare fiordland crested penguin). Dinner was served on board before we motored back to Harrison Cove, seeing bottle-nosed dolphins on the way who were playing with a large eel, to spend a very comfortable night. The crowd were not party animals after all!

Only a few of us were up for sunrise about 6.30 this morning and were treated to red clouds for a couple of minutes over the glacier towering above us. Worth getting up for! After motoring out to the Tasman sea again, it was back to harbour, via a couple of New Zealand fur seals and the tall Sterling falls.

Now, we're in Te Anau, enjoying a super-warm evening, but feeling a little disappointed - our 2-day sea-kayaking trip is now only a day. The reason? There are 45 knot winds due on friday, our second day, which means that if we kayak in, we may not be able to get out! So, its only a day out tomorrow with five others and a guide. At least we have another 3-day trip planned later on!!

Friday 1 to Monday 4 February 2008 - The Routeburn and Caples Tracks

Friday
Three hours to cover 9km and 500m of ascent in forest on a well built and busy track in increasingly intense rain, to Routeburn Falls Hut. Full of dripping people with dripping clothes, rucsacs, sleeping bags etc. Our mapcase leaked. Riflemen (the local bird) flitted beside the path, which passed over a good number of narrow suspension bridges. [Note to Betty: you wouldn't like it!] Very slippery in the hut! Impressive waterfalls. Bush dripping with lichens, liverwort and ferns.

Saturday
A cloudy start. Alpine path to Harris Saddle past Lake Harris, a remnant of glaciation. A side track up Conical Hill is in cloud. Eric, descending, says "no view, 4 degrees C", so we decide to ascend the steep 250m slope. Obvious viewpoints reveal nothing. Reach the top after 40 mins. It is blue above us now. We are just above the cloud, with mountains poking out all around. 19 degrees C, rising over the next 2 hours.

We spent that time brewing, lunching, chatting to others and watching the cloud inversion slowly and completely disappear.

Superb views along the Hollyford valley, all the way out to Martin's Bay on the coast, and across to glacier-draped mountains. Finally drag ourselves away to return to the Saddle, then a 3-hour belvedere walk at around 1200m, before dropping to the excellent Lake MacKenzie Hut. But the lake was too cold, even for Sue to wash in (Ed - but I paddled!).
The last steep section is being desecrated in the interests of tourism. Huge white bags full of stone chippings are to be used to pave the lovely woodland path so that the tourists on this 'Great Walk' won't trip over the roots and sprain their ankles. More about this in a later edit...

Sunday
Sunny again! Despite forecast rain (now postponed till tonight) we enjoyed a bright day for our stroll through green grottos and past the huge 174m Earland Falls to Lake Howden Hut, where we brewed up and said our farewells to various people, including Mr YHA Borrowdale and Tattoo-Tony and Kate, the unlikely barristers. Now very much on our own, we strolled down to the grassy junction between the Caples and Greenstone tracks. An excellent lunch spot, sandfly free, before our first taste of a great walk as opposed to 'A Great Walk'. We spent the next hour and a quarter thrutching up a well-marked path through trees and streams, and over roots, scrabbling a bit at times (very sweaty indeed). Eventually the McKellar Saddle was reached.

Very Scottish scenery apart from the trees. Fine views, briefly, as we motored along a board walk before entering more, less aggressive, trees for the pleasant descent to Upper Caples Hut. This hut has no resident warden. Ten occupants of diverse origin, some communicating better than others, spent a happy evening here before bedtime at sunset (around 9.30pm) as usual.

Monday
The morning's walk out to the scheduled bus at 2pm was a delight. Heavy dew on the long grass made us grateful for bringing gaiters but the sky was blue, the birds were singing and the insects humming. The forecast rain turned out to be a forecaster's unfulfilled dream! The path wove in and out of beech forest into meadows, in which cattle and sheep were grazing further down. Always accompanied by the wide, shallow Caples river meandering down the valley. Nice views to mountains all around. Our last teabags were used to brew at the Mid Caples Hut, only half full last night with four occupants, all of whom were still there when we arrived.

Now, we're back at Kinloch Lodge where their hot tub has been enjoyed, with its views over the head of Lake Wakatipu and the mountains. It looks more like the sea, with waves crashing into the beach nearby, due to the brisk wind. The wind is useful - our washing is drying and there are fewer sandflies!

Thursday 31 January 2008 - Fun around Queenstown

We are now installed at Kinloch Lodge, at the end of the road north of Queenstown, ready for a 9.30am lift tomorrow morning to start the Routeburn track, making it into a circular walk by returning via the Caples track.
Today has been another hot day, although there were a few drops first thing as we ate our breakfast outside! Much as we both would have liked to climb Ben Lomond (around 1700m) behind Queenstown, there wasn't time due to scheduled afternoon activities. So, we walked up to a small summit using the Millenium walkway. Once through the dark pine woods, we emerged to views across Lake Wakatipu, over to the gondola with Ben Lomond behind, and to mountains surrounding us. ...And only three other people all morning (high season?)!

A full afternoon has been had on a rafting trip on the Shotover river, which started with a scary bus ride over the Skipper's canyon road. Single track, this dirt road has precipitous drops below which is a downhill mountain bike track. Having survived this, the rafting was a pleasure. We were one of nine rafts on the 2-hour, 14km section. The river was clear and blue, at the bottom of a steep-sided canyon most of the way. The first half involved practicing the techniques that would be required, then the second half saw us on grade 3-4 rapids with names such as 'the squeeze', 'the toilet', etc. In places there was only just space to get a raft through the rocks on either side and we got wet several times. At the end was a 170m tunnel, with a rapid that caused one of the other rafts a problem, when it got stuck!
Since then, we've eaten great fish and chips at PJ's, and driven north for over an hour, with more glaciers coming into view.
Looking forward to using the hot tub here when we finish - so, no more from us until monday evening!

Monday to Wednesday 28-30 January 2008 - Mount Cook Lifts its Veil

Monday morning - woke to clear skies and fine views of the Southern Alps. Paid our farewells to Pam and Rob, and whilst they set off to work we spent all day over 330km in search of new horizons. Rewarded by fine views en route and a nice camping spot near Mt Cook Village. Short walks and a camp meal were followed by a lovely sunset. Mt C had just about poked its snout out of the clouds.

Tuesday - woke to the competing sounds of a flock of Kea birds and an insomniac JCB. The JCB won. So it wasn't long before we were up at the Tasman Glacier, the longest in NZ, from where Mt Cook's snowy summit towered above its sharp final ridge, radiant below a vermilion sky, over 3000 metres above us. Icebergs disintegrated noisily on the lake below us. Then it was back to camp and up a 500 metre Alpine Thrutch to Sealy Lake, with more fine views to Mt Cook and several stupendous hanging glaciers. Sue swam vigorously before a late lunch. It was about 30C up here, a hot day. Then down via Kea Point (no Keas) then along the Hooker Valley to beyond the second suspension bridge from where we got yet more (and our closest) views of the highest point in NZ - 3754 metre Mt Cook. We blame the Heat; we felt a bit tired, so it was a welcome early night after a fine home cooked salad and local wine. The day had been hot and cloudless.

Wednesday - Milky Way views overnight made way for a cloudy but bright morning for our leisurely drive to Bowness on Windermere, sorry, Queenstown. En route I was not tempted by the low flying attractions of the old Kawarau Bridge's bungy industry. Sue was attracted, but will save her aerial adrenaline for later in the trip. Deco Backpackers here in Queenstown has a fine view and good facilities to set us up for the next phase.

Sat & Sun 26 & 27 January 2008 - Weekend in Christchurch

Our remaining day in Singapore was spent exploring the Chinese quarter, with the added flags for the Chinese New Year celebrations (2008 is the Year of the Rat), then climbing a hill! The hill in question was Mount Faber, 116m high, and overlooking Sentosa Island and the harbour. Despite the size of the hill, the humidity resulted in a sweaty walk up through the forest, which was alive with the sound of birds and insects. It rained at the top, but, strangely enough, it was quite pleasant! From the summit, the enormity of the city is obvious. Time had now run out and we used the efficient MRT to transport us back to the beautifully cool Chiangi airport.

Tomorrow we head off into the Southern Alps from Christchurch, but our trip has started on a high in this 'garden city'. Our hosts, 'Pam the artist' and 'Rob the surfer' have been generous with their insider knowledge and their home in Sumner. What a place - we have eaten breakfast on the deck with a view over the city, Avon estuary, Pacific ocean, curving away with its white surf into the distance, and the Southern Alps on the horizon, which have become more defined as the weekend has progressed. Nights have been perfectly quiet, producing deep sleeps only halted by the mewing of Mogglet who wants to jump on the bed once the morning is light.

Christchurch's botanic gardens were a feast for the eyes (and nose!) after landing on Friday, and Cathedral Square was buzzing with crowds enjoying the sunshine and the entertainment as part of the World Buskers Festival. Our hearts were in our mouths as 'Space Cowboy' firstly swallowed two swords, then proceeded to juggle two jungle knives and a fire torch, whilst blindfold on the top of a 3m monocycle!

Saturday dawned overcast but the weather improved all day. 'Silver Bullet', our hire car, was thoroughly tested on the Summit Road to Akoroa. Hundreds of mountain and road bikers were out, seeking the thrills and views from the rim of the volcano that makes up Banks Peninsula, despite the low cloud. Our destination was the French-influenced village of Akoroa on a harbour, which we reached at lunchtime, having scared ourselves on the dirt road leading to Pidgeon Bay, with its precipitous drop on the climb up!

Low tide was essential for the afternoon's walk along a narrow peninsula near Barry's Bay - the orange volcanic rock contrasted well with the blue water of the harbour and the green of the surrounding hills and by now, the cloud had broken up, producing a fine afternoon.

Today, we had the pleasure of paying a surprise visit to Sarah, Anthony and Lara, who have now lived here for five years. Thanks for the coffee! Godley Head gave us another excellent walk, from the car park at Taylor's Mistake (why is it so named?). Our route involved a 100m tunnel to a gun emplacement built in 1939 at the entrance to Lyttleton Harbour, Christchurch's port. Windows in the tunnel meant that torches weren't needed.

Our New Zealand lamb dinner has just made a lovely end to the weekend, despite the view from the deck being obscured by our washing hanging out to dry! We head to Mount Cook village tomorrow where we're intending to camp in the light of a reasonable forecast.